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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. I 



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UNITED STATES OP AMERICA.! 




En^'^tjyJ.CBuOT'? 



1 



H R.H.The Prince of Wales. 

From a Photograph hy Brady: 



KOYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; 



OR, THE 



<<=> 



BY 



KINAHAN CORNWALLIS, 



Long may the Prince abide, 

England's hope, joy, and pride : 
Long live the Prince ; 

May England's future king, 

Victoria's virtues bring 

To grace his reign- 
God save the Prinoe. 




NEW YO R K : 

M. DOOLADY, 49 WALKER STREET. 

1 8 6 0/ 

3 ^^^ 



.sj2fr. -4. y^^^ 



Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1860, by 

KIN AH AN CORNWAIXIS, 

In the CTerk's Office of the District Court of tlie United States, for the Southern 
District of New York. 






THOMAS HOLMAN, PRINTER, 

CORNER OF CENTRB AND WHITE STREBTS, N. T 



PREFACE BY THE AUTHOR. 



My great aim in the composition of this panorama 
of the tour of His Royal Highness the Prince of 
Wales was accuracy — to convey a true idea of the 
progress of the greatest and most auspicious event 
of the age ; and as I personally saw more of the 
scenes therein depicted than any other individual, 
not of the royal suite, I feel myself entitled to speak ; 
and this I have done from my own impartial convic- 
tions, founded on those observations, and not hear- 
say. 

My connection with the JN'ew York Herald, with 
which journal I was in constant correspondence 
throughout the tour, procured me facilities for observ- 
ation which, under other circumstances, I could not 
have enjoyed, and I think it proper to mention that I 
have here freely availed myself of my letters so pub- 
lished. 

That the work may be considered an acceptable 
addition to the literature of, not only history, but 
travel, is my not inglorious wish. 

KINAHAN CORNWALLIS. 

November, 1860. 



SYNOPTICAL VIEW 

OF 

1. 1. 1- l|f ftinff of »Us' ®our in |.mmat. 



I860, 

July 

a 

Aug. 



I.EAVK 

10, Plymouth, England,. . . 
26, St. John's, N. F., 

2, Halifax, 

7, St. John's, N. B., 



11, Charlottetown, 

13, Gaspe, 

20, Quebec, 



23, Quebec, . 
29, Montreal, 



30, Montreal, 



Sept. 



31, Montreal, 

3, Ottawa, 

6, Kingston. 

7, Cobourg, 

10, Toronto, 

13, CoUingwood,. 

15, London, 

18, Niagara, 

18, Queenston,. . 

20, Hamilton, . . . 

21, Detroit, 

22, Chicago, 

25, Dwight, 



Oct. 



27, Dwight, 

29, St. Louis,.. 

2, Cincinnati, . 

3, Harrisburg, 

5, "Washington, 



I860. ARRH'E AT Miles. 

July 23, St. John's. N. F.,... — 
" 30, Halifax, N.S...... 900 

Aug. 2, St. John's, N.B.,.. 120 
«< 9, Charlottetown, P. 

E. L, 250 

" 12, Gaspe, 200 

" 15, Quebec, C. E., 650 

" 20, Chaudiere Falls 

and back 30 

'•' 24, Montreal, C. W., 170 
" Chaughnawaga and 

back, 180 

" Sherbrooke and 

back, .'^0 

Sept. 1, Ottawa. 180 

'< 4, Kingston 101 

<« 6, Cobourg 90 

" 7, Toronto, 70 

" 10, CoUingwood, 95 

" 13, London, 25 

" 15, Niagara Falls, 126 

*' 18, Queenston, 10 

" 18, Hamilton 25 

" 20, Detroit, Mich., 150 

" 21, Chicago, HI., 284 

" 22, Dwight 70 

" 25, Stewart's Grove 

and back 30 

" 27, St. Louis. Mo...... 212 

•« 29, Cincinnati, 0., 340 

Oct. 2, Harrisburg, Pa.,... 615 
i' 3, Washington, via 

Baltimore.. 123 

" 5, Mount Vernon and 

back, 34 

" 6. Richmond, Va.,... 130 
" 8, Baltimore, Md., ... 150 

<' 9, Philadelphia, 98 

" 11, New York 90 

'< 15, West Point, 51 

<< 16, Albany, 99 

" 17, Boston, Mass., 200 

" 20, Portland, Me., 187 



6, Washington 

8, Richmond, 

9, Baltimore, 

11, Philadelphia, 

15, New York, 

16, West Point, 

17, Albany, 

20. Boston, 

20, Portland for England,. 

Total distance traveled, ^^^* 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER I. 

PAGE. 

Introductory, 1 

CHAPTER II. 

Enthusiastic Reception at St. John's— Processions, Levees, Pres- 
entations, Illuminations, Addresses, and Universal Rejoicings 
— Royalty and Loyalty Tete-a-t6te— Scenes and Incidents 
During the Prince's Stay — The Departure for Halifax — The 
Halt at Sidney — A Unique Celebration, 17 

CHAPTER III. 

Arrival at Halifax — Grand Military and Civic Display — The 
Prince Welcomed by the Indians, 34 

CHAPTER lY. 

The Feeling of the People in Regard to the Visit of the Prince — 
His Social Powers and Love of the Humorous — The Royal 
Quarters on Board the Hero — His Acquaintance with Foreign 
Languages — Personnel of his Suite — His Arrival and Enthusi- 
astic Reception by the People — A Visit to the Indians, 47 

CHAPTER Y. 

The River St. John — Variety and Beauty of its Scenery — The 
Reception at Fredericton — Enthusiasm and Loyal Demonstra- 
tions of the People there — Visit to the Cathedral — Sermon by 
the Bishop — Visit to the Indian Encampment — Opening of a 
New Park under the Auspices of the Prince — Excessive Heat 
of the Day — Ball in the Evening — A young Lady throws the 
Prince a Bouquet, which he stoops to pick up — Race on the 
River between Indian Canoes— How the Prince received the 
Intelligence of his Sister's Accouchement, etc., 55 



Vlll CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER VI. 

General Holiday and Rejoicing of the People — Appearance of 
the City of St. John's after the Prince's Departure— Dinner 
to the Representatives of the Press — From St. John's to 
Shediac — View of Prince Edward's Island— Facts Concerning 
the Island — The Way in which it was Discovered — Scenes on 
a crowded Steamboat — Scarcity of Hotel Accommodation — 
Grand Illumination, etc., 60 

CHAPTER VII. 

Incidents on a Journey from Shediac — Crowded State of the 
Steamers— Appearance of Gaspe — Picturesque Scenery on the 
Rivers — The Ships of the Royal Squadron — Address from the 
People of Gaspe — Dispatches for the young Prince from his 
Father, Mother, and the Princess of Prussia, etc., etc., 67 

CHAPTER VIII. 
Excurfcion to meet the Prince, 70 

CHAPTER IX. 

Pictorial Glimpses of the Prince's Travels — Movements on the 
River Saguenay — The Prince as a Fisherman — The Scenery on 
the St. Lawrence — The Prince's Reception Room — View of the 
Citadel — Grand Show of Regulars and Volunteer Troops — 
Enthusiasm on the Approach of the Hero — Hearty Welcome 
to the young Prince — Exciting Scenes on the Landing of the 
Prince — Immense Concourse of People — Order of the Proces- 
sion — Grand Illuminations, etc., etc., 76 

CHAPTER X. 

Proposed Federation of the Province, with the Prince of Wales 
as Viceroy — The Prince at Church — His Visit to the Falls of 
the Chaudiere — Description of the Falls, etc., etc., 83 

CHAPTER XI. 
Closing Scenes in Quebec, 87 



CONTENTS. IX 

CHAPTER XII. 
The first day ia Montreal, 91 

CHAPTER XIII. 

The Cricket-Ground — Indian Games and Dances — The Levee 
and the Citizens' Ball — The Prince Encircled by Ropes — The 
Concert — Cornwall— In tha Rapids — Lachine — The Military 
Review and Return — Ottawa, etc., 97 

CHAPTER XIV. 

Enthusiasm and Warmth of the People — Torch-light and Fire- 
men's Processions, and Departure of the Prince — The Scenery 
among the Thousand Isles— The Trip from Brockville — Ar- 
rival at Kingston — the Preparations for the Reception — The 
Disappointment of the Multitude, and the Obstinacy of the 
Orangemen, etc., 110 

CHAPTER XV. 

The Landing at Toronto— Fifty Thousand Spectators— Four 
Thousand Children in Chorus — The Procession — Decorations 
on the Route — An Orange Arch — The Royal Party Annoyed 
— The Mayor in Hot Water— Illuminations— Addresses— The 
Prince Playing at Rackets- Reception at Osgoode Hall — The 
Prince enrolled as a Barrister — The Ball — Beautiful Appear- 
ance of the Ball-room — Another Orange Outrage — Departure 
for CoUingwood, et^., etc., 120 

CHAPTER XVI. 

The London of America— Its Features and its Differences— 
Sarnia — The Indians and their Eloquence — Presentation of 
Medals — The Prince's Journey to Niagara — Fort Erie — Arrival 
at Niagara — Illumination of the Falls, etc., etc., 137 

CHAPTER XVIL 

The Falls and the Prince of Wales— Farini crossing Niagara — 
Blondin and his Exploits — Description of his Performances — 
Crossing on Stilts — The Prince in the Spray — Illumination of 
the Falls— The Prince in the United States, etc., 145 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER XVIII. 



Departure from Niagara Falls— Brock's Monument and its 
Corner-Stone — A Magnificent View — St. Catharine's and the 
Prince's Reception there— Grimsby — Hamilton — Enthusiasm 
of the Populace — Description of the City, etc., 153 

CHAPTER XIX. 

The Grandeur of the Prince's Reception at Detroit— Immense 
Turn-out of the Populace— The Coup d'Etat of the Prince^to 
reach the Russell House — His Royal Highness takes a Drive 
through Detroit— His Departure for Chicago— Demonstrations 
of Welcome — Immense Turn-out of the Chicagoans — The Prince 
makes his Appearance oh the Balcony of the Richmond House 
— Enthusiastic Cheers of Welcome by the Populace — The 
Royal Party proceed on a Prairie Shooting Excursion, 161 

CHAPTER XX. 

Trip from Dwight to St. Louis— Origin of St. Louis— Its Early 
History and Progress — Presents from His Royal Highness — 
The Journey to Cincinnati, 170 

CHAPTER XXL 

From Pittsburg to Harrisburg — Over the Mountains — Fast Trav- 
eling of the Prince — A Mistake— His Royal Highness in Har- 
risburg— The Ladies and their Affections — The Arrival in 
Baltimore —The Enthusiasm — The Reception in Washington — 
Republican Simplicity, etc., 179 

CHAPTER XXH. 

The Prince's Visit to Mount Vernon — The Trip of the Royal 
Party and Hosts down the Potomac — Arrival at Mount Vernon 
— The Prince evinces a deep Interest in the History of Wash- 
ington—He Plants a Tree in Commemoration of his Visit — 
He Pockets some Horse-Chestnuts, which he intends to Plant 
in Windsor Park— The Return Trip— The Quarter-Deck of 
the Revenue Cutter Devoted to the Disciples of Terpsichore — 
The Prince at Richmond, etc., 189 



, CONTENTS. Xi 

CHAPTER XXIII. 

The Departure from Baltimore, and Arrival at Philadelphia — 
Enthusiasm of the People — Quarters of the Prince at the Con- 
tinental — He occupies the same Rooms as did the Japanese 
Princes — Incidents, etc., '. 196 

CHAPTER XXIY. 

New York's Glorious Welcome to the Prince— A Million ou 
Broadway and Fifth Avenue— Splendid Military Spectacle— 
The Review on the Battery and in the Park— Five Miles of 
Human Beings— Housetops, Brick Piles, Lamp-Posts, Win- 
dows, Steps, Awning-Posts, Doorways, Carriages, Boxes, Stages, 
Carts, Iron Railings, and Trees, from the Battery to Madison 
Square, Covered with Men, Women, and Children— The Dia- 
mond Ball— Grand Procession of Firemen, etc., etc., 203 

CHAPTER XXV. 

The Run up the River to see the Prince— The Trip of the Har- 
riet Lane— Excitement of the Ladies— The Review at West 
Point, 214 

CHAPTER XXVI. 

The Departure from Albany — Progress en route— The Grand Re- 
ception at Boston— An Immense Crowd— The Military Dis- 
play—The Illuminated Parade, etc., 220 

CHAPTER XXYII. 

The Review— The Musical Festival— The Grand Ball— The Visit 
to Harvard College and Bunker Hill— The Departure for Port- 
land—The Embarkation— The last Farewell to America, 226 

concludikg rei!-lectio!cs, 242 

Summary of the Prince's Todr, 248 

The Historical Princes of Wales, 265 

The Royal Party, 272 



XU CONTENTS. 

Poetry. — *' Welcome, Laddie, for your Mither's sake,'^ 280 

" At the Grave of Washington," 280 

« Paddy's Ode to the Prince," 283 

" The New York Ball to the Prince, or the Belles he 
danced with," 284 



ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD; 



OR, 



®l)e prince of tUales in :3lmerica 



CHAPTER I. 

INTRODUCTORY. 

I AM happy to say that this is not a Blue Book, un- 
less it happens to be so in the color of the binding. 
Yet it contains a faithful record of the progress of a 
great historical event from its inception to its term- 
ination, and to myself, at least, it will always be a 
pleasant souvenir. 

When I am dead and gone, as people say in En- 
gland, the visit of the Prince of Waleawill be recalled 
in the midst of pleasant associations by hundreds of 
thousands who are now children, and whose present 
boast is tliat they have seen him ; and when they too 
have gone the way of all flesh their children and their 
children's children will read in the history of our time 
the chronicle of this royal visit, and it will be equally 
remembered in England and America, and tend for 
ages to preserve and strengthen that friendship which 
ought^ always to subsist between the English and 
Americans, who are allied, not only by ties of interest, 
but by an affinity of race and language, which latter 
is a natural bond that can never be entirely broken, 
1 



OR, 

and it is to be lioped that tlie day will never come 
when it will be found weaker than we find it now. 

I employed nearly the same words in a newspaper 
leader before the advent of His Royal Highness in 
America, and I think they met with a hearty response 
in every Anglo-Saxon breast on both sides df the At- 
lantic. They were quoted by the press in America, 
and echoed in England by the press there. 

I only mention this to show the feeling wliich actu- 
ated me in narrating the events relating to the royal 
tour, of which I was an eye-witness from the first land- 
ing of His Royal Hijrhnn.^s on the continent till his 
final departure from Portland. 

I left New York as early as the 10th of July for 
Montreal, and afterwards visited Quebec, Ottowa, 
Toronto, and other Canadian towns, preparatory to 
proceeding to Halifax; and, perhaps, if I afi*ord a few 
glimpses of places by the way, I may not be considered 
wearisome. Therefore, to begin. I left New York by 
the seven A.M. train for Troy, and had a delightful 
view of the glorious Hudson by the way. From Troy, 
where the passengers bound north changed cars, 1 was 
carried by that steam-horse, the locomotive, over a 
series of beautiful landscapes, till the sonorous voice 
of the conductor announced that Rutland was reached. 
There I succeeded in possessing myself of a sandwich 
and cup of cofi*ee, upon which I dined, there being 
neither time nor opportunity for a more ample feast. 
But half a loaf is better than no bread to a hungry 
man, especially to one who had traveled two hundred 
and thirty-five miles without a previous indulgence in 
the customary meal of breakfast. From Rutland, till 
we sighted on the left the mirror-like waters of Lake 
Champlain, the scenery on either hand was of the 
most varied and fascinating character. I could de- 
scribe it at a lengtli which would satisfy the most ex- 
acting landscape painter in the world, but all the 
world is not made up of landscape painters, and it is 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 3 

possible that some of my readers would find such scru- 
pulous detail the reverse of amusing ; and as I wish 
my books to be of the utile et duke class, I am desirous 
of preserving that '" happy medium" of which I have 
heard so much in theory but seen so little in practice. 
It is, therefore, enough that I say the scenery was 
gladdening to the eye ; that the sun brightened the 
hills, and here and there threw a shadow over the 
valleys ; that the eye searched in vain for that monot- 
ony of feature which often characterizes North Amer- 
ican landscapes, and that every living thing, from the 
young colt, that cantered across the grass land at our 
approach, to the dallying, bright-winged butterfly, and 
from the monarch of the primeval forest to the cul- 
tured rose, seemed to disport in the gladness of its 
existence. 

Such glorious weather as thus animated the earth 
with its vivifying effulgence has a peculiarly inspiring 
effect upon my mind, when I am enabled to calmly 
survey nature in her placid beauty aloof from the busy 
haunts of men ; but there is no beauty without its 
alloy, and in my case the alloy was chiefly made up 
of dust and smoke — two things inseparable from rail- 
way traveling, at least in the New World. 

Late in the afternoon we crossed a couple of bridges, 
from which the passengers looked down into a deep 
and rocky gorge, at the bottom of which a stream of 
water coiled snake-like and stealthily, giving to the 
chasm an appearance of solemn, gloomy wildness, as 
impressive as some of the scenes pictured in the som- 
bre pages of Dante. 

The train passed slowly over the bridges, and this 
mournful pace gave time for reflection. Twilight 
soon made the distant hills grow dim, and a few broad 
streaks of coloring above the western horizon alone 
relieved the duskiness that harbingered the night. 

Night had actually begun when we crossed the two- 
mile bridge on piles across Masisco Bay. A few min- 



OR, 

utes afterwards we crossed another of the same kind, 
and nearly as long, spanning Lake Champlain at 
Eouse's Point, wlie're the British Custom-house officer 
was obliging enough to leave my baggage behind, 
since whioh time I have been under the necessity of 
doing without it. 

By this time the weather had changed ; a heavy 
shower of rain came pattering against the car win- 
dows, and the darkness grew deeper. A Dutchman 
in the traia, of tlie slop-built aspect, made himself 
ridiculous about this time by talking, in the most un- 
grammatical and unintelligible English imaginable, 
upon the slavery question. 

A prisoner in handcuffs, arrested on a charge of 
murder, was one of our passengers all the way ; so 
that our society, it will be seen, was of an order more 
than usually varied ; but variety is not always charm- 
ing, although that which has almost become a proverb 
tells us it is so. We must not, however, believe all that 
we hear, and even proverbs lie. 

The train reached the banks of the St. Lawrence at 
a quarter to eleven, when we emerged from the cars 
into the now cold and damp night, the darkness of 
which was unrelieved by a star or moonbeam, and 
went on board the ferry steamer, which straightway 
ploughed its way across the black and silent tide to 
the wharf at Montreal — the Hochelaga of the red In- 
dian, the Ville Marie of the French. 

Five years ago I set my foot on its island shore, and 
did the " mountain" in a caleche, and paced the solemn 
aisles of the Cathedral in the Place des Amies. Mon- 
treal is the city of red-tiled and tinned roofs, and a 
birds-eye view of it is consequently not unpicturesque. 
It is more than half French, and this French element 
seems ineradicable. When you speak to a cabman he 
answers in a French patois, or with an accent which 
tells you that French is the mother tongue ; as you 
pass a group of children you hear them chattering 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 5 

French ; whenever you look up at the name of a street 
painted on the walls, the chances are twenty to one 
that it is French also ; you meet Catholic priests in 
their vestments, with their heads covered with ordi- 
nary black silk hats ; you read French names over the 
shops, and at the Custom-house and Citv Hall you 
find the names of the Departments painted on the 
doors in both languages ; you go into your hotel and 
take up an entirely French newspaper, and an entirely 
French play-bill from a French theatre; in fact, 
wherever you turn, you are constantly reminded that 
Montreal was once a colony of France, and the fea- 
tures of the people, as well as of the city, confirm you 
in the impression. 

On the following morning I took a drive through 
the city, the public buildings of which are, almost 
without exception, built of gray limestone of the gran- 
ite aspect. 

For the first time I now saw the completed great 
two-mile tubular bridge of the Grand Trunk Railway 
Company across the St. Lawrence. When I visited 
Montreal in 1855, it was not a bridge, but a mere 
skeleton. I therefore felt a peculiar in'terest in glanc- 
ing over its immense span, which is supported by 
twenty-four piers, standing 242 feet apart, excepting 
the centre span, which is 339 feet, each pier beino- 
calculated to resist the force of 70,000 tons of ice a"? 
one time. Resting on these piers, and extending from 
abutment to abutment, is the bridge, consisting of a 
hollow iron tube, twenty-two feet high and sixteen 
feet wide. As a work of human ingenuity and indus- 
try, it is worthy to rank with the seven wonders of 
the world, and is decidedly one of the greatest works 
of engineering art in, not only America, but the two 
hemispheres. 

I left Montreal by the four P.M. train for Quebec 
on the day following my arrival, and for the first time 
in my life passed througli the bridge, which is pleas- 



6 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

antly lighted from above by openings near the roof. 
The weather at this time was cold and showery, and 
as the evening advanced it became so chilly that a fire 
was lighted in the car stove. Only one first-class car 
was attached to the train ; there was another next the 
tender, but it was second class, and the warmth which 
this wood fire emitted was very acceptable. The 
scenery along the road was flat and monotonous. 
Charred stumps of trees, and here and there a burning 
log, lined the wayside, which showed that those con- 
cerned were anxious to clear the land of its surplus- 
age of timber at the earliest opportunity. A few 
wooden villages, and occasionally the solitary tene- 
ment of some lonely wood-cutter, enamored, perhaps, 
but I think it doubtful, of a lodge in the wilderness, 
alone gave evidence of the presence of man in this 
thinly peopled district. 

At lialf-past nine we reached the terminus of the 
line at Point Levy, opposite the quaint old garrisoned 
city of Quebec. We emerged from the car shivering 
with the cold, and locomoted our way on board the 
ferry steamer, which conveyed us across the dark river, 
at this point about a mile wide, to the " Lower Town,'' 
a quarter inhabited chiefly by the French, or rather 
the descendants of the French, and about the most 
gloomy, unwholesome, and dirty-looking spot in all 
Canada. This region, which has a very antiquated 
appearance, is built under the cliffs, and occupies a site 
so low that the very wharves projecting into the river 
are more elevated than it. In the main street is to 
be seen the oldest church in the colony. It is a crum- 
bling vestige of by-gone ages, and the plaster on its 
outer walls has been yellowed by the sun and rains of 
centuries. It reminded me strongly of the Catholic 
churches at Lima, and its aspect is, so far. South Amer- 
ican. 

I entered the omnibus of Russell's Hotel, and after 
ascending several precipitous streets we passed through 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 7 

the Prescott Gate, so celebrated in the history of Que- 
bec, to which I shall hereafter make allusion, and soon 
reached our destination, for which I was nothing less 
than thankful, the cold being of raw Octoberian sever- 
ity, and owing to the loss of my baggage I had been 
unable to effect a suitable change of clothing. 

Those to whom the sight of fortifications is refresh- 
ing are likely to derive much pleasure from a visit to 
the gray old city of Quebec — the Gibraltar of the New 
World. All approaches to the city, both by land and 
water, are commanded by formidaJale batteries point- 
ing huge black cannon, which meet you with open 
mouth at every turning in certain neighborhoods. The 
circuit of the fortitications inclosing the Upper Town 
is two miles and tliree quarters, and the total circum- 
ference outside the ditches and space reserved by gov- 
ernment on which no house is allowed to be built, on 
the west side, is nearly three miles. The fortifications 
consist of bastions connected by lofty curtains of solid 
masonry, and ramparts from twenty-five to thirty-five 
feet high, and of an almost equal thickness, bristling 
with the before mentioned cannon, and diversified with 
round towers, loopliole walls, and massive gates, which 
occur at regular distances. On the summit of the 
ramparts, from Cape Diamond to the Artillery Bar- 
racks, is a broad, covered walk, commanding a beau- 
tiful view of the country westward. This passes over 
the top of St. John's and St. Louis' Gates, where a ser- 
geant's guard is stationed, and from which, at sunset, 
popular report informs me, a splendid view is obtain- 
able ; and I saw no reason to discredit popular report, 
although it is by no means always on the side of truth. 
I was not there at that delightful hour when nature, 
as it were, sinks to rest, and the sun to illuminate 
the other hemisphere. Phoebus is a hard-working 
fellow, his task is never ending and he keeps no 
holiday ; yet he always goes his rounds, casting that 
pleasant, broad smile of his over the earth, as if he 



8 

never knew what it was to Iodic on the dark side of life. 
Happy, bright-faced luminary, whom nations have 
worshiped through all time as the king of the universe ! 
Would that I were the sun I 

If I had been above St. John's Gate at the hour 
named, just preceding that most dear to lovers, and 
when I sometimes find myself singing " Come into the 
garden, Maud," as if I really had a Maud to sing to, 
I should likely have taken in all the features of the 
landscape to my entire satisfaction. I should have 
seen the river St. Charles in the fleeting effulgence, 
either reposing with mirror-like placidity, or waving 
like a rye-field, according to the state of the wind ; 
should have gazed with lingering delight and the en- 
thusiasm of a painter upon the last touclies of liglit 
and coloring resting on the spires of Lorette and 
Charlesbourg, and have watched them as they faded 
away beyond the mountains of Bonhomme and Tsoun- 
onthuan, which rear their summits dimly in the dis- 
tance ; while at one sweep of the eye I should have em- 
braced every detail of the prospect, far and near, with 
all its picturesque variations of light and shade. But 
it is not yet too late, and some fine day at sunset I 
shall be a spectator of the scene Avhich I have faintly 
traced. My eye never wearies of, but is ever eager 
for, beautiful sunsets and beautiful scenery, although I 
have seen thousands of the most splendid natural 
views in the world, for I have been a wanderer in my 
day, and there are but few climes in whicli 1 have not 
set my foot. 

The city being defended on its land side by ram- 
parts, is elsewhere protected by a lofty wall and para- 
pet, based on a high natural cliff, which no troops in 
the world could scale. The Upper Town is founded 
on a rock — a very sure foundation, too, according to 
all authorities, from the parable downward — while 
the Lower Town is a wretched, populous place, built 
under this rock, facing the St. Lawrence. The streets 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 9 

leading from the Lower to the Upper Town are, as a 
natural consequence, very steep, and they are also 
very tortuous and narrow. One of these streets is 
named the Mountain, and the name conveys a very ac- 
curate idea of the sort of thoroughfare it is. The 
military history of Quebec possesses a world-wide in- 
terest, for on its fields and around its battlements some 
of the most courageous exploits ever attempted have 
taken place. Wolfe of England, Montcalm of France, 
and Montgomery of America died there, and their 
names are associated with a lasting glory in the chroni- 
cles of warfare. On the next morning I hired a wagon, 
as the carriages are called here, and drove to the cele- 
brated Plains of Abraham, where General Wolfe 
fought and died in the remarkable battle against the 
French troops under Montcalm. 

I drove through the St. Louis Gate, where every an- 
gle was commanded by cannon, and, leaving the citadel 
on the left, passed between martello-towers guarding 
the road, and soon afterwards reached the toll-gate at 
the entrance to the Plains, where ninepence of British 
money was demanded. This is a tax I have never 
paid with pleasure, and on the present occasion I did 
not pay it at all. I left the wagon standing, and, pass- 
ing through a rude opening like a gateway, where 
stood a wooden shanty, which, so far as its appearance 
was concerned, might have been uninhabited, I found 
myself in one of the open and grassy fields which con- 
stitute the Plains of Abraham, and straight before me, 
within a small paling inclosure, stood a column sur- 
mounted with a helmet and sword, and bearing on its 
base the inscription, "Here died Wolfe, victorious." 

Ascending an eminence a little further on, where, 
surrounded by a fence, can be traced the redoubt 
where Wolfe received the fatal wound, and from which 
he was carried to the spot now occupied by the col- 
umn, I had a magnificent view of the surrounding- 
country for many miles, including the cove, a little on 



10 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

the Montreal side of Quebec, where Wolfe landed his 
forces, and which has since borne his name. 

According to history, which I may remark is often 
a gigantic lie, but not always, the English right nearly 
faced this redoubt, and on this position the French left 
rested. The French came on the Plains from tlie right 
on their way from Beauport, and not from Quebec, and 
after their defeat retreated down the heights by which 
they had ascended ; they were thus entirely cut off from 
the city. 

On my return to the liighway, I saw within an in 
closure the stone well from which the water that moist 
ened the lips of the dying Wolfe was procured, and 
which is now looked upon by many as little less than 
holy. 

Beyond this there is a beautiful drive as far ds 
Marchmont, where the river widens into lake-like pro- 
portions, and exhibits a fair sprinkling of ships lying 
at anchor, and smaller vessels and occasionally a 
steamer coursing up and down, while down only im- 
mense rafts of timber may be seen to float, guided by 
men who, with their families and chattels, have trav- 
eled on them from the far interior of the lumber coun- 
try. 

Mount Hermon Cemetery lies in this direction, at a 
distance of about three miles from Quebec. It is thirty- 
two acres in extent, and slopes with picturesque ir- 
regularity down a cliff overhanging the St. Law- 
rence. 

On my way back I visited the Citadel, which is im- 
posing enough without, and, with its flag-staff tower, 
has a striking military appearance, but within presents 
but little to arrest attention. I found myself in a 
large open space, with barracks and store-houses built 
round it that had a worn and desolate look. I had 
long heard of the beautiful view attainable from the 
tower of this Citadel, which, from its elevation of three 
hundred and sixty feet above the river, set before the 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 11 



lingering eye a lovely panorama of the surrounding 
scenery, embracing mountains, valleys, and plains, 
and the rivers St. Lawrence and St. Charles. I, 
therefore, eagerly made the ascent, and well was I 
rewarded. The description would be monotonous, 
but the prospect was varied and refreshing, and I felt 
myself well rewarded for my trouble. I have alluded 
to the French features of Montreal ; but Quebec 
is even more French than the City of the Island. 
Thousands of the population speak a French patois, 
and only a few words of broken English. Many of 
the streets have French names, and the churches of the 
Roman Catholics preponderate far over those of the 
Protestants. The former are a strong party in Lower 
Canada, seeing that they constitute four fifths of the 
entire population, and nearly all converse as often in 
French as in English, so that an affinity of language 
between the English and the bulk of the Lower Cana- 
dians can hardly be said to exist. 

After returning to the city I entered the Cathedral, 
whose tall, tin-covered spires had attracted my atten- 
tion. The interior was painted white, and over the 
grand altar a gilded canopy rose nearly as high as the 
arched roof, while round the walls were several chap- 
els, dedicated to various saints. But the charm of the 
whole was by no means equal to the dim old moulder- 
ing churches of the faith in the more balmy regions of 
South America. Even the few kneeling figures that I 
saw seemed more formal, yet less fervent in their devo- 
tions than those with whose precincts I had made 
myself familiar on the shores of the Pacific, and there 
was less solemnity of aspect about the whole than be- 
longed — yea, still belongs— to the grand old taberna- 
cle relics of the vice-regal period of Peru — the monu- 
ments of splendid riiin in which the maiden kneels to 
her invisible father confessor, and the service of the 
piass is still said. 

At eleven Q'clock I drove out to the Falls of Mont- 



12 ROYALTY IN THE NE W WORLD ; OR, 

morenci, which are situated at a distance of about 
seven miles from Quebec. The journey thither I per- 
formed in a caleche, drawn by a stout Canadian horse. 
After passing through a succession of narrow and de- 
clivitous streets, we emerged through a dilapidated 
gateway into the suburb of San Roque, and then cross- 
ed a long wooden bridge spanning the St. Charles 
River. The houses at the road-side were all painted 
white, and had a very quaint appearance. Fine gar- 
dens were attached to each, and in some of these wom- 
en, dressed in short black frocks, white bodices, and 
broad-brimmed straw hats, were engaged in horticul- 
tural operations. 

On arriving in the vicinity of the Montmorenci riv- 
ulet or torrent, which I found rushing through a rocky 
gorge, and just before flinging itself over a precipice 
two hundred and fifty feet deep — greater even than 
that of Niagara — so constituting the Falls, I accepted 
the services of a juvenile individual who exhibited 
great anxiety to " show" me the cataract. I now 
alighted from the caleche and commenced the descent 
over an exceedingly rugged and shelving path as far 
as a small ledge of rock just overhanging the Falls. 
After thus looking down at the tumbling waters, I de- 
scended considerably further and looked up at them. 
From this position I had a splendid view. The water 
fell in an unbroken sheet, into an oblong recess, the 
sides of which were almost perpendicular, and opening 
into the St. Lawrence, whose banks were here high, 
but gradually inclining. The eft'ect of the neighboring 
scenery was somewhat spoiled by the too close prox- 
imity of some saw-mills, driven by water-power, on the 
banks of a small stream, diverted from the main chan- 
nel of the Montmorenci. The spot last alluded to is 
remarkable for the formation of an ice cone, caused by 
the freezing of the spray. But as there now remained 
no traces of the last year's glacier, I was unable to im- 
agine myself in Switzerland. 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 13 

The Falls, although so high, and situated in a beauti- 
ful nook of the river, are not as grand as may be sup- 
posed, owin^j to their narrowness, fifty feet being, I 
should say, their greatest breadth. 

The journey from Quebec to Montreal occupied by 
railway only five hours and a half — an arrangement 
very creditable to the Grand^ Trunk Railway Com- 
pany. On the way we sighted several bush fires, 
which threw a lurid glare over certain parts, and cov- 
ered the landscape with smoke. But \o myself, who 
had seen the bush fires of Australia, where for miles the 
prospect was one sheet of flame, and where for hund- 
reds of miles I could trace the effects of the conflagra- 
tion, the scene was as insignificant as is a fusee when 
compared to a burning mountain. However, burning 
mountains are not to be seen every day, so I was con- 
tent with the fusee ; and as timber is a drug in this 
market, I did not feel as I should have done had I 
been gazing at a house on fire. I knew that the fire 
would only tend to clear the land of wood, as a great 
deal of human labor is brought into requisition daily 
for converting the saplings, yea, and the old monarchs 
of the forest, into firewood, for the purpose of making 
ready the land for agricultural and building opera- 
tions. 

I remained at Montreal till Monday morning, when 
I left by the nine A.M. train for Toronto, calling at 
Ottowa. In the mean time, I explored the city more 
than I had ever done before. The public buildings at 
Montreal are well worth visiting, and for the benefit 
of future tourists, I will make mention of a few of the 
principal. 

The new Court House, on Notre Dame Street, is 
one of the most massive and imposing of the whole 
city. It is built of limestone in the Grecian Ionic 
style, and is seventy-six feet high, the ground plan be- 
ing three hundred feet by one hundred and twenty- 
five. Standing immediately opposite, and contrasting 



14 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

remarkably with the newness of its appearance, is 
Nelson's monument. 

Tlie Fost-office, on Great St. James Street, is a 
handsome building*, as also is the Bonsecours Market, 
in St. Paul Street. Several of the banks make a very 
imposing display, particularly the Bank of Montreal, 
in the square, Place d'Armes, which is of cut stone 
and of the Corinthian order. 

I have already made mention of the Cathedral on 
the opposite side of this square, the turrets of which 
rise conspicuously over all the other buildings in the 
city. There are tliree nunneries in and about Mon- 
treal, and Sisters of Mercy, in their unbecoming black, 
and with a white band across the forehead, may be 
seen walking through the street invariably at the one 
mournful pace at all hours of the day. 

On the next Sunday I took another drive around the 
mountain — the royal one, from which the city derives 
its name. It is almost a misnomer to call it a mount- 
ain, for it is a mere elevated piece of table-land. The 
drive, however, affords a series of splendid views, al- 
though, on the present occasion, these were much hid- 
den from my view by the clouds of dust that came whirl- 
ing along the highway. I called at the Bellevue Gar- 
dens on the way, where a party of pleasure seekers 
were regaling themselves with such of the good things 
of this life as were there dispensed. Mount Royal 
Cemetery lies about two miles from the city, on the 
mountain, and is much visited, but not being in an 
epitaph-collecting mood, I did not stay to ponder over 
its tombstones. On arriving opposite the house of 
General Williams, I drove up one or two private 
roads leading to tlie same. I found that the General 
was out of town, and that the premises were being 
prepared for the reception of His Royal Highness. 
The view from the house is the most deliglitful on the 
mountain, commanding, as it does, a fine sweep of the 
Back River, which runs behind the city and mountain 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERtCA. 15 

of the St. Lawrence, and the thickly wooded Nun's 
Island, where a large nunnery is situated ; of the great 
tubular railway bridge, backed in the distance by a 
couple of lofty hills, and with a foreground of wooded 
landscape, dotted with here and there a villa, while 
turning to the left may be seen the western end of the 
city. 

The scenery between Montreal and the Prescott 
junction, where the Ottowa passengers changed cars, 
is pretty, but not grand. I had a pleasant glimpse of 
the St. Anne's River and the Lake of the Two Mount- 
ains on the way ; but the landscape partook chiefly 
of the character of land undergoing a transition from 
its natural state to that of cultivation. Just before 
arriving at the junction the train ran over a skunk 
which emitted an almost overpowering stench, so that 
we were obliged to close the windows in self-defense. 
There was nearly an hour's delay at the junction be- 
fore the arrival of the train for Ottawa, distant fifty- 
four miles from Prescott, which latter is one hundred 
and twelve miles from Montreal. The line between 
these places disclosed a succession of dense forest 
swamp and partially cleared lands, with an occasional 
group of shanties. Between Gloucester and Ottawa, 
however, a few farms were disclosed on either side of 
the railway, as far as the station near New Edinburg, 
on the left bank of the Rideau River, facing Ottawa, 
at the distance of about a quarter of a mile. We 
reached Ottawa about four P.M., when we took an 
omnibus belonging to Campbell's Hotel, which was 
the only house represented by a public vehicle at the 
station, and bad enough I found it. 

To call Ottawa a city is ridiculous ; but it is likely 
to become one ; so I shall devote a few words to it. 
Its original name was Bytown, and it is the centre of 
the immense timber district of the river Ottawa, on 
which it is situated, at its junction with tlie Rideau 
and Gatineau. The town is intersected by the Rideau 



16 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

Canal and bridge, and forms three districts, namely, 
that of the Lower Town on the east, Central Town ou 
the west, and Upper Town on the northwest, all of 
which are on the north side of the Ottawa. 

The streets are all wide and laid out at right 
angles, Rideau and Sussex Streets being the principal 
ones. The buildings are monotonously plain, and 
present no imposing features. The government build- 
ings are situated on a place called Barrack Hill ; but 
these are too insignificant to att^-act the attention of 
the visitor. Here are erected some fortifications, and 
the site is well adapted for such, Central Town being 
in the rear, while the Upper and Lower Towns are 
completely commanded by it on each side. In front 
is a precipitous embankment running almost perpen- 
dicularly to the river over a distance of several hund- 
red feet, thus completely sweeping the river and op- 
posite shore, at three points of the compass. 

The scenery around Ottawa is varied and delight- 
ful embracing river, landscape and waterfalls, the 
latter being those of the Chaudiere — a Niagara in 
miniature. At present, they have a fall of about forty 
feet ; but in winter, when the river is swollen, they 
partake more of the character of rapids. The best 
view of these, I was informed, could be obtained from 
the suspension bridge, which crosses the river close 
to them. Besides these, the Rideau Falls attract 
considerable attention. They are, however, much 
smaller, but present features of great natural beauty. 
Ottowa is pre-eminently the city of the future, and 
not of the present. There is a large hotel there al- 
ready built, but as yet unopened. This is where the 
Prince resided during his stay in the place. 

The new Houses of Parliament are being proceeded 
with very rapidly, but little more than their founda- 
tions are as yet built. The view from this position is 
the most delightful in the neighborhood, and perhaps 
in all Canada. 



THE PRINCK OF WALES IN AMERICA. 17 

Leaving Ottowa by the eleven A.M. train, we ar- 
rived in Toronto at the same hour at night. 

Toronto, which is the metropolis of Upper Canada, 
lies on the northern shore of Lake Ontario, and on a 
clear day is within view of the mist rising above 
Niagara Falls; indeed, I saw it from the roof of my 
hotel. It is only forty years old ; yet it boasts of a 
university, consisting of two colleges, and several 
public buildings of great utility, highly creditable to 
the city. The site of Toronto is extremely flat, but 
it is nevertheless a place well worth visiting, especial- 
ly by tourists on their way to Niagara. 



CHAPTER IT. 

Enthusiastic Reception at St. John's — Processions, Levees, Presenta- 
tions, Illuminations, Addresses, and Universal Rejoicings — Royalty 
and Loyalty Tete-k-tete— Scenes and Incidents During the Prince's 
Stay— The Departure for Halifax— The Halt at Sidney— A Unique 
Celebration. 

From Toronto I proceeded to Halifax and awaited 
the arrival of the royal squadron there. But in or- 
der to make my narrative of the tour complete I give 
the following account of the ovation at St. John's, New- 
foundland, compiled from the special correspondence 
of the J\'ew York Herald : 

The popular idea seems to be that Newfoundland is 
a large, barren island, with a climate colder than 
Greenland's, shut off from all intercourse with the 
civilized world, occupied only by a few fishing stations, 
perpetually enveloped in the densest of fogs, and in- 
habited by a few hundred modern Robinson Crusoes, 
who live in semi-barbarous style, earning a living by 



18 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

catching codfish, and are prevented from holding much 
intercourse with each other by the lieavy mists, which 
render navigation by land and water equally difficult 
and dangerous. 

Newfoundland is four hundred and twenty miles in 
length, three hundred miles in breadth at its widest 
part, about one thousand miles in circumference, and 
with an area of thirty-five thousand nine hundred and 
thirteen miles. It lies just east of the river and gulf 
of St. Lawrence, which separates it from the Ameri- 
can continent, and its latitude is between 46 deg. 37 
min. and 51 deg. 40 min. north. The island is located 
upon an immense bank, its shores are broken and rug- 
ged, and its bold and lofty sea-cliffs tower like natural 
fortifications above the Atlantic waves, with soundings 
of from twenty-five to ninety-five fathoms up to their 
very bases. Its interior conformation presents innu- 
merable hills, intervened with valleys, marshes, woods, 
and barrens, intersected by few considerable water- 
courses, but jeweled here and there with hundreds of 
lakes. 

St. John's, the principal city of the colony, and the 
place at which the Prince was received, is situated on 
the extreme east of the island, and contains about 
thirty thousand inhabitants. Its harbor is perfectly 
land-locked, and is entered by a passage between two 
high hills, appropriately called The Narrows, since 
there is scarcely room for a steamship of ordinary size 
to enter. These hills are fortified, and completely 
command the harbor ; which is about half a mile in 
length, with deep water up to the very docks. St. 
John's is built in amphitheatrical form around this 
harbor, and rises with the hills from the water's edge. 
Its appearance is certainly unique, the houses being 
confusedly jumbled together, as if some players had 
been using them for dice, and had heaped them pell- 
mell at the last throw. The buildings in the lower 
part of the city are of brick, rebuilt after a large fire 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 19 

in 1846 ; in the upper part of wood ; but all are of 
only one or two stories in height, and painted of some 
dingy brownish color, with roofs of black, giving tlie 
town an indescribably dull and quaint appearance. 
The streets, like all the roads on the island, are mac- 
adamized, but, except at intervals, do not pretend to 
sidewalks for pedestrians. The city covers an area 
of about three miles, and is very loosely and irregu- 
larly built, a few only of the thoroughfares being en- 
titled to the name of streets, the rest being merely 
lanes, with as many turns and angles as the best of 
Boston cow-paths. The city is built upon a succession 
of very steep hills, and this gives all the houses upon 
the transverse streets the appearance of stepping up 
hills, and adds to the unique aspect of the place. The 
finest public buildings are ranged in a line at the rear 
of the town, are built of stone, and, excepting the 
Roman Catholic Cathedral, are of the most liideous 
styles of architecture ; the governor's mansion looking 
more like a jail than a private residence, and the Co- 
lonial Building almost successfully contesting the palm 
of ugliness. The city is not a municipality, but is un- 
der the charge of the House of Assembly. There are 
a few policemen on duty, but they seem to have an 
easy life of it, and only occasionally arrest a saucy 
man-o'-war's man, by way of practice. The stranger 
who lands at St. John's is at first struck with the 
neatness and cleanliness everywhere apparent, and is 
then surprised at the apparently gigantic size of the 
inhabitants, who, on account of the low-storied houses, 
tower disproportionately large, and at the diminutive 
size of the horses which pass along the streets, draw- 
ing immense drays, or equally cumbersome wagons, 
double seated, and generally loaded with four persons. 
The immense number of liquor stores next attract at- 
tention, nearly every shop in the lower part of the 
town keeping liquor in addition to its other wares. 
St. John's is the seat of the Colonial Government, and 



20 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

almost every other person one meets is some official 
or other. The women are everywhere prevalent, and 
take the places of men in stores, in the markets, and 
as waiters in the hotels. During the Prince's visit 
the men seemed disproportionately few, the majority 
of them being absent at the fisheries on the Labrador 
coast. The inhabitants are about two thirds Roman 
Catholic. Along the coast, near the city, are several 
small fishing villages, and around the harbor are raised 
platforms, called " flakes," for drying the fish, from 
which comes an odor any tiling but pleasant to unac- 
customed nostrils. Beyond the city stretches away 
an open country, broken by diminutive hills, inter- 
spersed here and there with small lakes or ponds, and 
fringed with forests of evergreens. Add to these par- 
ticulars a sky bright and sunshiny as that of Italy, and 
weather deliciously cool, and the reader can form some 
idea of the city of St. John's. 

As soon as it was known that the Prince of Wales 
was to land at St. John's, and not, as had been previ- 
ously arranged, to receive the addresses of the inhab- 
itants on board ship, outside the harbor, the greatest 
excitement prevailed, and every effort was made to 
give the Prince a reception worthy of the colony. 
The governor's mansion was refurnished, arches of 
evergreens sprang across the streets, the inhabitants 
prepared to decorate their residences. The Queen's 
Wharf, at which the Prince was to land, was admira- 
bly fitted up : the various societies prepared to march 
in procession ; a public ball was arranged, and a pa- 
vilion erected alongside the Colonial Building for the 
occasion ; the two companies of Volunteer Riflemen 
incessantly j^racticed their drill ; a company of one 
hundred men, in riflemen's uniform, was organized as 
the Prince's guard ; the Newfoundland Corps, number- 
ing about two hundred men, detailed from the British 
army, and stationed at St. John's, was ordered to pa- 
rade ; the newspapers teemed with official programmes. 



THE PRINCE OP WALES IN AMERICA. 21 

and the city was fairly alive with bustle and anima- 
tion. The war-steamer Flying Fish, Captain Hope, 
one of the vessels which was to accompany the Prince, 
arrived at St. John's on the 18th inst,, and increased 
the excitement. The Prince was not expected at St. 
John's until the 26th ; but, after a pleasant passage 
from England, the royal ship pushed through the fog 
banks which lie distinctly visible from St. John's, three 
or four miles from the island, and on the evening of 
the 23d, were signaled from the look-out at Signal 
Hill, which guards the entrance to the harbor. 

The evening was clear and pleasant, and the sun- 
shine dying out of the sky, left that cool and delicious 
half-light most favorable to marine views. Just at 
half-past five, the magnificent steamer of the line, 
Hero, with the Prince on board, entered the narrows, 
closely followed by the Ariadne, one of the largest 
and fastest war-steamers of the English navy. In- 
stantly the fort on Signal Hill thundered its salute, 
the cannon of the French frigate Sesostris and the 
Flying Fish echoing tiie reports, and the Ariadne, with 
its heavier guns, pealing its bass to the chorus, while the 
reverberations of the surrounding hills repeated the 
salutes, like parks of artillery. Flags of every variety 
of color suddenly streamed from the shipping and 
lightened up the town with gay hues, every house dis- 
playing its decorations, and the public buildings and 
churches being fairly enveloped in the gaudy folds of 
the English ensign. Mingling with the thunder of tlie 
cannon, came the silvery chiming of the church bells, 
and the steady, hearty English cheers of the crowd 
which thronged the shore, filling up the pauses of the 
cannonade, and thrilling the multitude with new en- 
thusiasm. Nothing could be grander than the specta- 
cle presented by the land-locked harbor, covered with 
vessels and enveloped in dense smoke above, and be- 
neath which the cannons of the fort and the shipping, 
pushed their quick, bright flashes, while every now 



22 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

and then, the smoke lifted and disclosed the city, 
gay with thousands of flags, and the wharves lined 
with people, in vari-colored dresses, lightened by 
the last golden beams of the sunshine, which touched 
with their magic pencil the smoke, the church spires, 
the summits of the hills, the many-hued flags, and lent 
a new beauty to the imposing spectacle. As soon as 
the Hero cast anchor in the harbor. Major Grant, the 
commandant of the garrison, with Lieutenant Coen, 
the aid of Governor Bannerman, went on board and 
submitted to the Prince the programme for liis recep- 
tion. The Prince announced that he would land the 
next morning at ten o'clock, and as soon as this intel- 
ligence became known on shore, the crowd poured 
back from the wharves and thronged the streets of 
the city. St. John's appeared fairly transformed. 
What had before been preparation, was now comple- 
tion, and every house was decorated with flags, the 
principal streets were crossed by arches of ever- 
green, with loyal inscriptions, and thousands of people 
from the surrounding villages, kept pouring into the 
city during the niglit. The rejoicing was universal 
and enthusiastic, and every one seemed anxious to do 
his best to add to the eclat of the reception the next 
day. 

St. John's, so gay the night before, could hardly be 
recognized in the sorry picture it presented the next 
morning, which, of all others, should have been the 
most brilliant. During the night, the wind had 
changed, the sky frowned with most gloomy clouds, 
and a brisk rain pelted the gay dressings of the town, 
as if in derision of the whole affair. Never did the 
town look more woe-begone and bedrenched. The 
flags clung to their staffs or draggled miserably along 
the roofs, the streets were almost entirely deserted, 
the dull-colored houses seemed doubly gloomy, the 
streets were guttered by miniature rivers running 
muddily along, the waters of the harbor were as dii*ty 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 23 

looking as if it were but an immenpc puddle, and the 
ships loomed drearily through the mist like spectres 
of unfortunate men-of-war. Ten o'clock approached. 
The most sanguine could discern no tokens of fair 
weather, and nothing remained but to postpone the 
landing for an hour or two, to gratify those who still 
hoped against hope. To this the Prince consented, 
and the order was issued to prepare to receive the 
Prince at noon. Anxious faces of ladies in Sunday 
finery, of volunteers in brilliant costumes, of officials 
excited almost to desperation at having cold water 
thus thrown upon a celebration which had .cost them 
so much labor and expense, were pressed against the 
window panes in hopeless hope. Half-past ' eleven 
o'clock came, and still the rain came down, and the 
weatherwise avoided all inquiries, and could give no 
hopes of better things. The ladies were determined 
to have the celebration however, and, with umbrellas, 
overcoats, and pattens, trooped down to the Queen's 
wharf, and filled the tiers of seats erected for their 
accommodation. The men mustered in fewer num- 
bers, and the military were not to be seen. Barriers 
had been erected across the street, above and below 
the wharf, to prevent a crowd of spectators, and these 
were guarded by policemen, who enjoyed the rain and 
their sinecure, and had no one to keep back or arrest. 
The members of the Committee of Arrangements ran 
about in the most deplorable frame of mind, and seri- 
ously contemplating suicide. Suddenly, at a quarter 
before noon, the rain ceased, a gleam of sunshine light- 
ened up all faces, the clouds parted, and cleared away 
like a curtain, and in an instant the city and harbor 
were brilliant with glorious light, which flashed back 
in new brightness from the rain drops. The Queen's 
and the surrounding wharves rapidly filled with spec- 
tators. The roofs of the commanding buildings and 
the rigging of the vessels were crowded. The com- 
panies of volunteer riflemen guarded the approaches 



24 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

to the wharf. The policemen mustered in full force 
and were fully occupied in keeping back the throng 
and clearing the pathway for the Prince. The hold- 
ers of tickets jammed the seats reserved for them. 
The societies with their insignia, were drawn up out- 
side the gate with the children of the public schools. 
The governor, the bishops, judges, officers, civil and 
military members of the Assembly, foreign consuls, 
and the officers of the Sesostris, took tlieir assigned 
positions in order of rank. Hawsers were extended 
from the wharf one hundred fathoms into the harbor, 
and along these were moored a number of small boats, 
loaded with spectators, and forming a lane leading to 
the wharf. The wharf is semi-eliptical in shape, and 
around it were arranged vari-colored bannerets. To 
the right was the landing place of the Prince, from 
which a raised path, carpeted with crimson cloth, led 
to the gateway, over Avhich was a magnificent arch of 
evergreens, with the inscriptions : " Welcome," and 
" God Save the Queen," and the royal initials and 
Prince's motto, " Ich dien," I serve. Along this 
pathway were drawn up the Newfoundland Corps, as 
a guard of honor, the dignitaries and invited guests. 
To the left of the wharf were the seats for ladies, and 
the tout ensemble was most brilliant and animated. 
The royal salute from the Ariadne announced that the 
Prince had entered his barge, and in a moment after 
the boat rounded the Hero, and was seen pulling swift- 
ly to the landing. Again the air was rent with the 
thunder of cannon, the jangling of bells and the cheers 
of excited thousands, which grew louder and more en- 
thusiastic as the Prince landed, and was welcomed to 
St. Jolin's by Governor Bannerman. The Prince was 
dressed in the uniform of an English colonel, and his 
appearance captivated all hearts. As he proceeded 
up the scarlet pathway to liis carriage, the band struck 
up the magnificent national anthem, the cheers re- 
doubled, the demonstrations of enthusiasm became al- 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 25 

most frantic, and all rose from their seats as the Prince 
courteously and gracefully acknowledged their wel- 
come by bowing to the right and left, as he walked on, 
and waved hats and handkerchiefs, and shouted huzzas 
and blessings in a perfect tumult of excitement. The 
Prince was accompanied by his suite, consisting of the 
Duke of Newcastle, Secretary of State for the Colo- 
nies, the Earl of St. Germains, Lord Steward of Her 
Majesty's household. Major Teesdale, and Capt. Grey, 
equerries in waiting, and Dr. Acland, the Prince's 
physician. Having reached the gateway, the Prince 
and suite entered the carriages provided for them, Gov. 
Bannerman riding with the Prince, and proceeded to 
the Government House in procession. 

As the Prince passed along the street, the bishops 
and clergy, the judges, members of the House of As- 
sembly, officers of the garrison, and officers of the 
French steamer, fell into line, followed by the three 
rifle companies, and societies in order of seniority. 

The cortege passed through several streets, which 
were decorated with flags and arches of evergreens, 
and lined with people, who kept up an uninterrupted 
cheer, which the Prince gracefully acknowledged, and 
at length passed through a magnificent triumphal arch 
and entered the government grounds, the entrance to 
which was surrounded by an evergreen bower. The 
lawn was covered Avith people, and in front of the 
governor's mansion was drawn up the Prince's Guard, 
a company of one liundred boys, dressed in the uniform 
of a volunteer corps, and a number of the children 
belonging to the Sabbath schools, dressed in white and 
Avith wreaths of flowers. Amid the huzzas of the mul- 
titude the Prince entered, through files of soldiery, the 
Government House, an immense stone building, erect- 
ed at a cost of over a million of dollars, and command- 
ing a splendid view of St. John's and the surrounding 
country. This building is used as the residence of the 
governor, and was luxuriantly refitted for the occa- 

2 



26 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

sion of the Prince's visit. The Prince took his place 
upon a dais in the immense drawing-room, with the 
Earl of St. Germains on his right, and the Duke of 
Newcastle on his left. Addresses were then present- 
ed from the Bishop of Newfoundland and his clergy, 
from tlie Roman Catholic bishop and clergy, from the 
inhabitants of St. John's and Harbor Grace, from the 
Council and Assembly, and from the various societies. 

The addresses having been disposed of, the Prince 
held a levee in the drawing-rooms of the mansion, at 
which about two hundred gentlemen, comprising the 
elite of Newfoundhand soci(3ty, were introduced. These 
gentlemen had, according to the regulations, previously 
registered their names with the Committee of Ar- 
rangements, and each was announced by the equerry 
in waiting as he entered the room. The ceremonies 
consisted simply in an introduction of each gentleman 
to the Prince by name, His Highness bowing as each 
name was called. The levee, however, afforded all an 
opportunity to observe the perso7i7iel of the Prince, 
whose graceful affability had before delighted them. 

Immediately after the levee was broken up, the 
Prince reviewed the Royal Newfoundland and the 
Yolunteer Corps — the crowd cheering him wherever 
he appeared. In the afternoon he appeared on horse- 
back, in citizen's dress, riding Avith perfect grace ; and 
attended only by his suite, he visited Waterford Bridge, 
about three miles from the city. The route was lined 
with spectators, and the Prince seemed carried for- 
ward by unceasing waves of cheers. The houses along 
the road were gay with flags, and across the road were 
fine arches of evergreen, with mottoes and devices — 
prominent among which were the Prince's crest and 
plumes. The Prince and his suite were much gratified 
by the view from Topsail Road. The elements of 
Newfoundland scenery are very simple, but combine 
most beautifully. Hills dimpled with lakes, a great 
deal of sky, a little evergreen, and much rock — these 



THE PRINCE OP WALES IN AMERICA. 27 

are the components of views unsurpassed on this con- 
tinent. 

In the evening a State dinner was given at the Gov- 
ernment House, at half-past eight o'clock. Arches 
across the streets, the churches, and public buildings, 
and many private residences, were most brilliantly 
illuminated, and all over the city fire- works were dis- 
played in lavish profusion, the most beautiful display 
being given from the Colonial House. From the gov- 
ernor's mansion the scene was bewilderingly beautiful. 
The streets of the city were marked by rows of lamps, 
and spanned by arches of living flame, while, rising in 
stately columns of light, the larger edifices shut in the 
view, and brilliant rockets and balls of flame leaped 
up to the dark dome of the sky in tracks of vivid light. 

Wednesday was a fine clear day, and at an early 
hour the population was astir to renew the festivities 
in honor of the Prince's arrival. The people of the 
surrounding villages completely deserted their homes 
and avocations, and flocked to St. John\s, where all 
business was suspended. At an early hour Sir Fran- 
cis Brady, the chairman of the Committee of Arrange- 
ments, waited upon the Prince, and on belialf of the 
people of the colony, presented him with a fine New- 
foundland dog, of large size, and of the rarest breed, 
and wearing upon his powerful neck a massive silver 
collar. 

The Prince said that he was delighted with his dog, 
and that he had been wishing for just such a one dur- 
ing his passage from England. He remarked that he 
would like to give the dog a name which would please 
the people of Newfoundland — some name connected 
with the history of the island. Chief Justice Brady 
suggested "Avalon." The Prince replied that this 
was the name of but one portion of the colony, and 
that he should call his dog " Cabot," after the discov- 
erer of Newfoundland. The gentlemen present seemed 
no less surprised than delighted at this display of the 



28 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

Prince's knowledge of their colonial history, and ex- 
changed looks of profound admiration. The dog was 
sent on board the Hero, and safely secured to prevent 
his leaving his royal master, for whose serviee he 
seemed to have no inclination, and rejoining his more 
humble but older acquaintances on the south side of 
the harbor. 

During the forenoon the Prince and suite, attended 
by Governor Bannerman, rode on horseback to Portu- 
gal Cove, a fishing station about nine miles from St. 
John's, in the direction opposite to that taken during 
the ride the day before. The road to the Cove is a 
very excellent one, and winds most picturesquely over 
the hills and around the mimic lakes which diversify 
the view, passing through bits of evergreen woods, 
and displaying at almost every turn some beautiful 
little vista or rare nook secluded among the hills. 
From Portugal Cove a fine view may be obtained of 
Conception Bay, with its cluster of islands shadowing 
in the distance. Indeed, the whole vicinity of this 
Cove abounds in romantic beauty, and was much ad- 
mired by the party. The buildings along the whole 
route were gayly decorated ; every farm-yard had its 
flagstaff and ensign, and the Prince was enthusiastic- 
ally cheered by the residents along the road and at 
Portugal Cove. 

Upon their return to town the Prince and suite vis- 
ited the Episcopal Cathedral, a fine stone building of 
the Gothic style of architecture, and, after a brief stay, 
proceeded to the Roman Catholic Cathedral, which 
occupies a most commanding position upon a hill at 
the rear of the town. The church is flanked by con- 
vents and by the residence of Bishop Mullock, and is 
built of light-colored stone, in the Roman Basillican 
style of architecture. It was crowded to its fullest 
capacity upon the occasion of the Prince's visit, and as 
he entered the building, the magnificent organ, the 
fourteenth in size in the world, pealed forth the an- 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 29 

them " God Save the Queen," and the rich strains 
blended in harmonious thunder with the cheers of the 
populace. Upon the Prince's return to Government 
House, the streets alono^ the route were crowded with 
people, and he was followed by hearty acclamations, 
which he acknowledged as he rode on, attended by 
his brilliant suite. 

In the afternoon a regatta was given at Lake Quidi 
Vidi, about half a mile from St. John's, and nine prizes 
were contended for by oared boats. The races were 
not particularly interesting or well contested, but the 
scene around the lake well repaid a visit. The lake 
is small, but deep, and is delightfully located. All 
around the lake were groups of spectators, and booths 
of gay-colored stuffs flaunting rich flags in the sun- 
shine, which flashed upon the waters of the lake its 
sunniest smiles. When the Prince appeared the cheer- 
ing was deafening, and as he drove around the lake 
his carriage was followed by enthusiastic thousands, 
shouting the most laudatory and loyal observations. 
The pressure v/as enormous, and it was almost impos- 
sible for the police to clear a way for the Prince, who 
stood up in his carriage, smiling and bowing in the 
most approved style. " We will see him," " He's only 
to be here one day," " Sure, he's as safe as if in his 
mother's parlor," the crowd called out, the ladies be- 
ing especially noticeable with their shrill outcries. 
The Prince soon tired of this homage, however, and 
the party drove off; and, at His Highness' request, 
inspected a fishing-station, or "room," as it is technic- 
ally called, where he observed the various operations 
of bringing in, decapitation, splitting, salting, washing 
out, drying, and packing, to which the codfish is sub- 
jected, seeming to be greatly interested, and glad to 
learn something of the means by which Newfoundland's 
wealth is acquired. The Prince was not subjected to 
the usual boot oiling which attends a visit to these 
" rooms," but some of his followers were not so for- 



30 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

tunate, and were obliged to pay a douceur for the 
privilege of having a greasy hand smeared across 
their patent leathers. A ride to Signal Hill, cele- 
brated for many desperate combats between the En- 
glish and the French, from whence a fine view of the 
surrounding country may be obtained, concluded the 
afternoon's excursion, and the Prince returned to the 
Government House to dine. 

In the evening the grand reception ball took place 
at the Colonial House or Capitol. A pavilion of wood 
was erected as a wing to the building, and was used 
as a ball-room. The room was hung with alternate 
red and white bunting, and was neatly and tastefully 
decorated with flags and pictures. The Prince's ar- 
rival having occurred two days before it was antici- 
pated, the arrangements were necessarily hurried, and 
the decorations fell short of what was intended, but 
were sufficient to satisfy the most fastidious require- 
ment. A dais, carpeted with crimson, and with the 
Prince's arms above it, occupied the further extremity 
of the room. 

The ball was a public one, a limited number of 
tickets being sold at five dollars each, and the attend- 
ance consequently embraced representatives of all 
classes and conditions. As the Prince and his suite, 
at ten o'clock, entered the chamber used as a reception 
room, the bands of the Hero and the Newfoundland 
Corps struck up the national anthem, and amid the 
wildest cheers he reached the dais at the head of the 
chamber. After a brief conversation with his attend- 
ants, the Prince and the company entered the ball- 
room, where his reception was overwhelming, and the 
ball was formally opened. 

The Prince danced quadrilles, the lancers, polkas, 
waltzes, and a gallop, being upon the floor twelve times. 
It is almost impossible to describe this ball, for from 
different points of observation it presented very dif- 
ferent aspects. Regarded as the best that the New 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 31 

foundlanders could do, it was certainly deserving of 
every praise ; but regarded comparatively and on its 
merits, it was equal to the most ridiculous scene that 
ever Rabelais, Cervantes, Smollett, or Dickens im- 
agined in their merriest moods. The Prince, dressed 
in the uniform of a British colenel, occupied, when not 
dancing, the dais at the extremity of the room. The 
two bands were located in niches opposite each other, 
and alternated their music. At first the dancing was 
conducted with great ceremony, but with little grace, 
but as the evening wore on, and supper was over, the 
dancers warmed to their work, and the fun began. 
Not one person out of twenty in the room knew any- 
thing about dancing, and the confusion at the plebeian 
end of the hall became almost inextricable, but was 
prevented from spreading over the entire room by the 
exertions of the Prince's body-guard of volunteers. 
Every few minutes the Prince would be cheered, and 
at every dance he selected a new partner. The Prince 
danced very gracefully, conversed with his partners 
during the pauses of the figures, and escorted them to 
their guardians, but not to their seats, politely avoid- 
ing the attempts made by some of the ladies, in defi- 
ance of etiquette, to take his arm. 

Towards the end of the ball the stewards became 
less careful of those who danced in the set with the 
Prince, and now began the laughable faux pas. A 
tall ensign, with a very red head, insisted on blunder- 
ing himself against the Prince and his partner ; a vol- 
unteer danced about with the delightful idea that he 
was doing his duty, and unconscious that he was out 
of time, out of place, and out of the figure ; a very tall 
man succeeded in waltzing his partner until she became 
giddy enough to fall at the Prince's feet ; and bobbing 
up and down, over the room, were flushed, anxious 
faces, regarding partners who would go wrong, or who 
were obstinately right. The Prince could not avoid 
laughing outright at these mishaps, but continued to 



32 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD; OR, 

dance, good-naturedly correctinp; mistakes, and calling 
out the figures to the awkward squad before him. In 
these efforts he was aided by a little mite of a mid- 
shipman, a boyish sprig of nobility, wlio persisted in 
dancing with the largest ladies he could find, and thus 
increased the general merriment. Altogether, if the 
Prince did not find at the ball the refinement and the 
beautiful dancing to which he had been accustomed at 
court, he found, probably, more genuine and hearty 
enjoyment, and he remained very late. The ball broke 
up almost immediately after the young Prince had de- 
parted, followed by repeated cheers. 

The next morning dawned bright and clear, and the 
little town, in its holiday dress, was thronged with 
people striving to obtain positions from which they 
might take a last long look at the heir apparent, who, 
in the meantime, was taking his leave at the Govern- 
ment House. 

At ten o'clock the chiming of the Cathedral bells 
announced that the Prince was about to start for the 
wharf, and the streets crossing the route were thronged 
with people, and the various societies and corps of 
soldiery were drawn up upon the government lawn. 
When the Prince, accompanied by tlie Earl St. Ger- 
mains and Sir and Lady Bannerman, entered the car- 
riage, the air was rent with shouts, and darkened with 
hats and handkerchiefs. Suddenly a body of men 
rushed forward, detached the horses from the carriage, 
and the Prince, having graciously acceded to the wish 
of the people, a stout rope was hooked on, and about 
two hundred men, after a smart scramble for the honor 
of places, formed into line, and drew the carriage, at 
the head of the procession, to the wharf gate. The 
procession was the same as at the landing, and the ar- 
rangements upon the wliarf were precisely similar, ex- 
cept that the chief ofiicers of the British ships took 
their stations also at the landing steps. The Prince 
entered the wharf, bowing to the tremendous shouts 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 33 

which greeted him, and amid the thunders of cannon, 
the ringing of bells, the music of the bands, the cheers 
from ship and shore, he took his leave of Lady Banner- 
man and the officers of the government, stepped into 
the Hero's barge, and flew across the water to the 
noble liner which was to convey him to Halifax. A 
moment after, the hundreds of naval Blondins and De 
Laves who had been manning the yards of the men-of- 
war, swarmed down the rigging, the salutes ceased, 
the royal ensign slowly rose to tlie Hero's mast, and 
one by one the royal steamers sailed through the Nar- 
rows, and disappeared from the sight of the Newfound- 
landers. As they passed out of the harbor, the Prince 
was greeted with a unique salute, in the form of a sub- 
marine blast, by the workmen engaged in removing 
the Raby Rock. 

The royal fleet called on Saturday at Sidney, in 
Nova Scotia, for coals for the Hero. At the landing 
place the Prince was received by three volunteers, 
hastily collected, and by an old woman, who over- 
whelmed the Prince with garrulous blessings. Away 
posted the volunteers to collect their forces, and finally 
succeeded in getting together about thirty, in some 
sort of uniform, but with no two hats alike. Sidney, 
be it known, is probably the only finished city in the 
world. A place more completely used up could scarce- 
ly be imagined, and cannot be described. Around it 
stretch wide barrens ; and as the Prince rode across 
these to the town, which has but a few hundred inhab- 
itants, he encountered a tribe of Micmac Indians, the 
first that he had ever seen. With every indication of 
curiosity, the Prince dismounted, entered and exam- 
ined the tents of the Indians, conversed with them, 
and made several purchases of moccasins. The com- 
pany, with the Prince, then entered the town, where 
the inhabitants gave a dozen faint cheers, and the vol- 
unteers made a few disconsolate attempts at a parade. 



34 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD : OR, 



CHAPTER III. 

Arrival at Halifax— Grand Military and Civic Display— The Prince 
Welcomed by the Indians. 

If I were asked to name the finest bay in North 
America, I should say that of Halifax. If I were 
asked to name the most miserable city in that country, 
my reply would also be Halifax. 

The former, which is 2466 miles from Liverpool, is 
situated 400 miles nearer to the British Islands than 
any other port on the continent, and while the Cana- 
dian harbors are blocked up with ice during nearly 
half the year, it is always accessible. From Halifax 
to Quebec, through British territory, the distance is 
about 600 miles, and from Halifax to Prince Edward's 
Island, only 150 miles. 

The Duke of Kent, father of Queen Victoria, was 
commander of the British forces in North America, 
and stationed at Halifax in the year 1799, and there 
are several now living there who remember the old 
gentleman, and who manifested much venerable de- 
light at the prospect of seeing his grandson among 
them after the lapse of sixty years. 

If Albert Edward lives to be King of England, he 
will not be the first ruler of the British realm who 
once in his life visited North America, for William 
IV., in his early manhood — and while the third son 
of his father George III., and consequently with little 
expectation of ever succeeding to the throne — visited 
several of these provinces. 

The present Sir Samuel Cunard formerly worked 
as a carpenter in the Ordnance Department at Hali- 
fax ; and Haliburton, of " Sam Slick " celebrity, was 
born a few miles only out of the town, in which, I may 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 35 

remark, murders are of such rare occurrence that no 
execution has taken place for fifteen years. 

I will now return to tlie bay. the noble proportions 
of which would render it magnificent if the scenery in 
which it lies enframed was of a more stupendous char- 
acter, but it lacks those classic heights which overhang 
Rio, Palermo, and Naples, and the prospect afforded 
by its shores is one of extreme baldness and sterility. 

On entering it, the shores on either side are long, 
low, and sandy, and continue so for several miles, after 
which Sambro, the first signal station, is passed, and 
the coast becomes a little more elevated, and appears 
to be made up of a mass of broken rocks, between 
which here and there may be seen patches of furze and 
other hardy plants and shrubs, while the wretched 
wooden shanty of a fisherman, and occasionally small 
villages of such, in the midst of which stands a church, 
which is to city churches what a mouse-trap is to a ho- 
tel, rise up from the naked rocks upon which they are 
irregularly perched. It would be difficult to imagine 
anything more bleak and forlorn, especially in winter 
— and I have seen it in winter — than this same barren 
Nova Scotian terra Jirma. But, for twenty miles round 
Halifax, the country is almost equally rocky and un- 
cultivated, so that the colony is by no means rich in 
agricultural promise. After passing the York re- 
doubt, which is the second signal station, white sand- 
stone and clumps of dark, stunted pine-trees distin- 
guish the western or left-hand shore, and red sand- 
stone and pines the opposite, or eastern one. Ad- 
vancing, we pass Tower Woods on the left, which is 
the nearest shore, for we are sailing up the western 
channel, the larger of the two that lead up to the 
harbor, where a tower, pierced for cannon, but not in 
use, stands embowered in the sombre foliage of the 
pines. 

We next come to Point Pleasant, two miles from 
Halifax, where a couple of batteries point their black 



36 

guns as if they really meant to do us mischief. But 
we pass them unmolested, and are soon abreast of the 
Eastern Battery, so called because it conmmnds the 
eastern channel, facing George's Island, which lies al- 
most parallel with McNab's Island, the latter crowned 
with a formidable round tower of gray stone. . 

McNab's Island acts as a breakwater, and divides 
the harbor within immediate view of the town, which, 
from the water, has a very dingy, quaint, and anti- 
quated appearance. It is backed by the Citadel, which 
is the third signal station, and has an aspect of the 
most commanding and impregnable order. 

There are a few small vessels and sometimes a large 
one, sailing up and down the bay, and a ferry steamer 
plies frequently from Plalifax to Dartmouth, on the 
opposite side of the harbor, which is to the city what 
Cheshire is to Liverpool. Here stands a conspicuous 
red brick building, which tempts the stranger to in- 
quire about it, and his curiosity is rewarded by discov- 
ering it to be a lunatic asylum. 

On landing at Cunard's wharf, a gloomy archway 
leads into a narrow and dusty street, which is a fair 
specimen of all the other streets in the town. 

Those who have visited Kingston, in Jamaica, could 
hai;dly fail to recognize a resemblance between the 
streets of it and Halifax during the summer. 

The view from the Citadel is the finest in Nova Sco- 
tia, and embraces a wide sweep of country on all sides. 
The wagons or caleclies of the place drive up to the 
top of the hill, but visitors are only allowed to enter 
the Citadel on foot. Within, however, there is less 
of general interest to be seen than at the Citadel of 
Quebec. It is used as an infantry barrack and store- 
house. 

The public buildings of Halifax are neither numer- 
ous nor imposing. The Province House, where the 
Governor, Lord Mulgrave, resides, is a neat, but low 
building, inclosed within a small garden, and here tu 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 37 

artillery soldier is always on duty, to receive passen- 
gers and cards. 

The Providence Building, or House of Assembly, at 
the corner of Holies and Granville Streets, is the 
largest and best-conditioned one in the town, and is of 
gray stone. The Wellington Barracks, recently con- 
tructed, are handsome and durable, but the old South 
Barracks are wretched. 

There are five tri-weekly newspapers in Halifax, but 
not one daily. 

The colony was first settled in 1749, and its present 
population is nearly 300,000 a number that, consider- 
ing the sterility of a large portion of the country, is 
surprisingly large. Halifax itself has a population of 
32,000. 

The reception of the Prince of Wales at Halifax 
was a picturesque and exciting scene, which is still in 
memory before me. In my mind's eye I can see the 
broad, heavy Hero, of 2800 tons measurement, steam- 
ing slowly past the booming guns of the York redoubt, 
and the smoke ascending lazily from her one huge 
black funnel, while Albert Edward, the hero of all 
heroes of the day, stands on her quarter-deck in his 
plain dark dress, and acknowledges the cheers of our 
passengers by raising his cap and bowing with a grace- 
ful inclination. The crew are gathered on the main- 
deck, looking on with their ordinary composure, and 
naval grandees in black cocked hats, red coats, and 
white trowsers, are, spy-glasses in hand, standing and 
moving about the quarter-deck. The noble form of 
that best of war steamers — the two funneled Ariadne 
— follows at a short but respectful distance in her 
wake. The yacht-like Flying Fish, with her two lean- 
ing, cream-colored funnels smoking like well-drawn 
pipes, is coming up in the rear, and more good look- 
ing gentlemen in cocked hats and white trowsers are 
to be seen on her quarter-deck. 

The wide-mouthed guns of the batteries bid them 



38 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

welcome, and the anxious multitude that stand on 
yonder crosstrees and on the deck of tlie two steamers 
whicli have come out to meet the royal squadron, and 
on the wharves and vessels in port, and the top of 
Citadel Hill, and wherever the human form is seen. 
Thrice welcome, say 1, and the band of the steamer 
strikes up the national anthem, which is listened to by 
both men and officers of the Ariadne, alongside of 
which we are steaming. 

It caused a pleasant tlirill to hear the shouts of cheer- 
ing, as the Hero passed the crowded wharves, and the 
rapid firing of royal salutes from the CUadel and the 
round tower on George's Island ; and that of Tower 
Woods, was an exciting demonstration, which warmed 
the people into exultation, notwithstanding the cold- 
ness of the weather and the depressing effects of a 
showery sky. 

It was pretty, too, as the Hero wheeled to her moor- 
ings, rounding, as she did so, the Nile, the Valorous, 
and the Cossack, to see their yards manned by their 
brave crews, clothed in white duck and cheering and 
waving their hats in honor of their future king, as he 
stood on the broad quarter-deck beneath them ; and 
then looking up the bay a little further to see a fleet 
of twelve canoes, paddled by Indians, in their sub- 
scription clothes of blue and red, come hurrying to- 
wards us. ^ 

The squadron anchors, the drizzling rain again sets 
in, and again subsides, and it is now ten o'clock. The 
Neptune lands her passengers, and I find myself in the 
streets again. They are garlanded with evergreens, 
and thickly intersected with arches, and every house 
displays either illumination frames in its windows, or 
flowers and verdure in its front, or both. The street 
arches, wliich are all of very substantial and tasteful 
build, number twenty-seven. All these are construct- 
ed of timber and decorated with a heavy covering of 
spruce. This gives them a general resemblance ; but 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 39 

the devices, and in some cases the architecture, varies. 
It is evident that the hand of preparation has been 
busy, and nothing has been left undone that either the 
taste or opportunities of the inmates could devise for 
giviui^ Alijert Edward a right hearty, right royal re- 
ception, 

i traversed the streets, not in the line of route, from 
the landing place at the dock-yard, to Government 
House, and I found them nearly deserted, and I knew 
that the shops would be closed, and they were closed. 
The holiday was general, and all courted it but the 
cabmen, and here and there a liquor dealer. 

I bent my steps up to Barrington Street, through 
which the procession was to pass. There I found in- 
fantry in British red, and volunteers in sombre gray, 
lining the way on either side in long, single file, and 
I saw a congregation of men, women, and cliildren out- 
side of the barriers imposed by these, while the mid- 
dle of the road was empty and in waiting for the royal 
equestrian and the ranks which were to follow, no 
vehicles being, meanwhile, permitted on its cleared 
precincts. <» 

After this I retired to the quiet streets, which looked 
like so many avenues of green trees, and, hiring a cab, 
drove to the dock-yard, where I found the Mayor of 
Montreal, with his conspicuous chain of office round 
his neck, and hanging down as far as his waist. And 
I saw, also, clergymen in their Episcopal robes, and 
the Speaker of the House of Commons in his black 
gown, and I saw priests with white bands round their 
necks, and officers of the army and navy in their 
bright uniform moving to and fro, while the Chief 
Justice and Judges, the l^resident and members of the 
Legislative Council, the Speaker and members of the 
House of Assembly, the Mayor and Corporation, the 
Custos and High Sheriif, the heads of Departments and 
the members of the Executive Municipality Commit- 
tee were grouped together in the centre of the yard, 



40 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

near the landing steps, and in full view of the occu- 
pants of the temporary platforms which had been 
erected on each side. 

Then, as the clock in the yard pointed to within 
eight minutes of the hour of twelve, I saw a slim form 
in military uniform step into a white-painted boat at 
the foot of the gangway steps of H. M. steamer Hero, 
and quickly following it I saw that boat rowed by 
brawny arms towards the dock-yard, at the foot of 
wliich the twelve Indian canoes and their Indian pad- 
dlers lay idly in waiting, while their squaws and 
children were grouped in a prominent position of the 
yard assigned to them. And now listen to that glori- 
ous chorus of the iron-mouthed guns of all the batteries 
and the six British men-of-war in harbor, whose yards 
are manned by their cheering crews, and whose rig- 
ging displays the flying flags of nations. What a glo- 
rious sight is that when combined with the scene 
around, and what music makes the nerves vibrate like 
the ringing boom of cannon. Welcome to their roar, 
and while I speak, glance at the multitude of anxious, 
eager eyes that rest upon the coming boat, whose oars 
now cease their play. The hero steps ashore, and 
there is a loud, long cheer of unfeigned rejoicing. The 
Admiral of the fleet and Lord Mulgrave receive him, 
and he is led to the central group of the local digni- 
taries alluded to. 

The Mayor read an address. The Prince replied. 
Following this, he mounted a charger and rode with 
his suite, and a long procession of societies on foot, to- 
wards Government House. 

On arriving opposite the stand occupied by the 
school children His Royal I$ighness halted, and the 
three thousand five hundred struck up the music of 
their anthem : 

God save our gracious Queen ! 
Long live our noble Queen! 
God save the Queen ! 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 41 

Send ber victorious, happy and glorious, 
Long to reign over us — 
God save the Queen ! 

Welcome, our royal guest ; 
Welcome, from every breast— 

From every tongue ; 
From hearts both warm and true — 
Hearts that beat high for you, 
Loudly our welcome due 

To thee be sung. 

Prince of a lofty line, 
The virtues all he thine 

Which grace the Queen. 
To her we pay, through thee, 
Love, faith, and loyalty — 
Homage which fits the free. 

God save the Queen ! 

The three cheers of their tiny voices given at its 
close, and the butterfly fluttering of their little hand- 
kerchiefs, must have sent a thrill of something akin to 
rapture througli the lieart of many a mother among 
the masses collected below. 

On arriving at Goverinnent House the Premier of 
the House of Representatives read an address in the 
presence of all tlie members, which was responded to 
by the Prince reading another. 

After tliis interview His Royal Highness retired to 
his private apartment, and at four o'clock rode in plain 
clothes, accompanied by several of his suite. It was 
fair when he started, but he was drenched with rain 
before returning. At half-past seven he sat down to 
dinner with forW-six others, the guests of Government 
House. 

On the following morning preparations were made 
for a grand review of the regular and volunteer 
troops. 

At an early hour the volunteer companies assembled 
at their respective barrack rooms, and at ten o'clock 
they were in attendance at the Pavilion Barrack Square, 
under their several commanders, where they were put 



42 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

through a variety of evolutions. Meanwhile, the " reg- 
ulars" were marching from the Citadel and other mili- 
tary quarters towards the Common, the scene of the 
review. Soon after ten the commandant of the volun 
teers took command of the battalion, and after Q:oinof 
through the customary duty of equalizing companies 
and numbering off divisions, the entire battalion di 
rected their course to the Common, a few minutes be 
fore eleven o'clock. On arriving there they were 
formed into line on the left of tlie regular troops, and 
combined, they extended the whole length of the 
ground, and presented a most imposing appearance. 

About this time — at a quarter to eleven — His Royal 
Highness left Government House, in his colonel's uni- 
form, accompanied by Lord Mulgrave, in the blue and 
gold of his official dress, and his suite. Along the line 
of route of the Common he was greeted almost raptur- 
ously by tlie thousands wlio had assembled to catch a 
glimpse of his person. The firemen and axemen form- 
ed in open order along Spring Garden Road, and as 
His Royal Highness passed, they followed behind his 
staff. 

On arriving at the Common at a few minutes past 
eleven, where about fifteen thousand people had assem- 
bled, he was received with a burst of enthusiasm such 
as never before awoke the echoes in Nova Scotia. The 
royal standard was then hoisted at the eastern side*of 
the review-ground, and here the Prince and his party 
took up their position. 

After the combined troops were formed into review 
order. His Royal Highness, accompanied by the Duke 
of Newcastle, the Earl of Mulgrave, Commander-in- 
chief of the Volunteers, the Earl of St. Germains, 
General Trollope, and the remainder of the staff, num- 
bering in all more tlian twenty, rode slowly past the 
ranks, and was received with the usual general salute, 
the whole presenting arms together. This being over, 
the regulars and volunteers formed into open column, 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 43 

right ill front — the regulars leading off — and inarched 
past the royal standard, on the right of wliich the 
Prince was stationed, in slow and quick time. After 
this the whole formed into line and quarter distance 
column, and marched to the front. The regulars were 
then moved off the ground, and the volunteers, which 
included a company of negroes, facetiously called tlie 
Greeley Guard, were, in presence of His Royal Iligli- 
ness and staff, put through numerous evolutions by 
their captain. On the conclusion of the review the 
battalion formed into three-quarter distance column, 
and three clieers were given for His Koyal Highness 
with great unction. 

At this moment I saw a long line of uplifted bayo- 
nets glittering in the sun, and on the points of these 
the uniform caps of every man of tlie battalion, the 
variegated plumes of which enhanced the picturesque 
effect. 

His Royal Highness then rode off the review ground 
in the midst of the most enthusiastic cheering from the 
multitude surrounding the reserved space, and under 
a salute from the Volunteer Artillery. 

After leaving the review-ground the Prince visited 
the Citadel, and then returned to Government House 
to lunch. 

In the course of the afternoon he rode out to the 
Common again, in plain dress, and witnessed the rural 
sports there going forward ; the racing and the Indian 
war-dance, performed by the remnant of the Mic Mac 
tribe, in particular attracted his attention. 

The Prince dined with a large party at Govern- 
ment House at half-past seven, and at lialf-past nine in 
the evening he led Lady Mulgrave into the ball-room 
at the Province Building, which had been showily and 
tastefully fitted up for the occasion. 

The ball-room, lined with red and white cloth, and 
suitable hangings over appropriate devices, inclosing 
Latin mottoes, and filled with the bright uniforms of 



44 ROYALTY m THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

military and naval officers, and ladies whose exquisite 
toilets were worthy of the saloons of London and 
Paris, presented a very gay and elegant appearance. 
So also did the main corridor leading from the ball- 
room to the supper-room, where the flags of all na- 
tions, hanging at the sides and overhead, and well 
lighted up, had a very pretty appearance. 

The Prince, after the members of the Legislature 
and public service present had filed past him in the 
ball-room, led off the ball in a quadrille, his partner 
being the niece of the Premier or President of the 
Council. 

At eleven o'clock he led Lady Mulgrave to the re- 
freshment room, and at one to supper, when the toasts 
of the Queen, Prince Consort, and Prince of Wales 
were respectively proposed and responded to with im- 
mense cheering from the thousand guests present, who, 
I may remark, were without exception in strict even- 
ing dress, including a white necktie. There were 
twenty dances included in the programme, and of these 
the Prince danced eighteen, with as many different 
ladies, being all there were danced up to the time of 
his leading Lady Mulgrave to her carriage at a quarter 
to four. 

On the following morning the Prince was up early, 
and after breakfast walked out in plain dress with 
Lord Mulgrave and his suite. He returned soon after 
ten and dressed in his staff uniform, that of a lieuten- 
ant colonel, and at eleven took his place in the inner 
reception-room and held a levee, which was attended 
by about three hundred of the leading men of Nova 
Scotia and most of the visitors at Halifax, including 
Mr. Lincoln, the Mayor of Boston, and the Mayor of 
Montreal. Of course, I was not absent on the occa- 
sion. The Prince was attended by all the members 
of his suite. Lord Mulgrave and the senior officers of 
the garrison. He looked as fresh as if he had enjoyed 
his usual rest on the previous night, and bowed with 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 45 

unaffected grace as one by one the gentlemen attend- 
ing the levee were presented. 

At half-past twelve he stepped out into the grounds 
at the back of the Government House, and with the 
Duke of Newcastle and the Earl of St. Germains on 
his left, and Lord Mulgrave and the remainder of his 
suite on his right, was photographed by a professional 
artist of the town. He stood in his uniform, and hold- 
ing his hat in his right hand, under his arm, and the 
sun shone full on his face. 

After this he partook of luncheon, and at a quarter- 
past two he arrived at the dock-yard in an open car- 
riage, with Lord and Lady Mulgrave, the L)uke of 
Newcastle, and Earl St. Germains. He there embarked 
on one of the boats of the Nile, in order to lunch with 
the Admiral on board, and witness the regatta, which 
had been going forward since the hour of ten. The 
yards of the three vessels of the Admiral's fleet were 
manned, and these, as also the royal squadron, tired 
royal salutes as the royal standard moved away from 
the shore. He went on board the Hero in three quar- 
ters of an hour afterwards and changed his uniform for 
a plain walking suit, after which he was rowed to the 
paddle steamer Valorous, in which he sailed up to the 
basin at the head of the bay, where his grandfather, 
the Duke of Kent, once owned a farm. At a few min- 
utes past six the Valorous, with the royal standard 
fluttering at her masthead, returned, and upon anchor- 
ing the boat was at once lowered, and Albert Edward 
stepped into it, when the royal standard was erected 
at the bow. As the boat was rowed towards the 
crowded wharves and landing steps the royal salutes 
were again fired, and the yards were manned as be- 
fore. 

In the meantime I had been visiting the vessels of 
the fleet, including the Hero, and glancing at the 
yachts and punts and pinnaces as they shot to and fro 
over the bay at the highest speed either wind or labor 



43 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

would carry them. To those having a taste for aquat- 
ics the scene on the bay at this time was one of the 
finest siglits of the Halifax carnival. There was gen- 
uine good-humor among the masses that covered the 
wharves, and real spirit shown by the rowers. 

On Thursday morning, at seven o'clock, the Prince 
and suite, the members of the Legislature, and a few 
others, left Halifax by a special train for Windsor. As 
the train moved away from the station a rural-looking 
couple jumped on to the foot-board of one of the cars, 
and could not be persuaded to jump back again, not- 
withstanding the energetic expostulations of those in 
charge ; so they were carried to Windsor in the posi- 
tion of stow-aways. The Prince and suite, with Lord 
and Lady Mulgrave, had a car to themselves. The 
train arrived at Windsor at half-past eight, and the 
Prince passed between the ranks of a volunteer guard 
of honor, which had arrived from Halifax two hours 
previously, into the Clifton House, on the balcony of 
which he was soon afterwards presented with an ad- 
dress by the inhabitants, to whose spokesman he read 
a brief reply, the sun all the time shining npon his 
head and face. He next partook of an elegant break- 
fast at a large table, at which all of the special train 
were permitted to seat themselves. The Queen, Prince 
Consort, and the Prince of Wales were toasted, soon 
after which the royal guest left the table and took his 
seat in one of the carriages in waiting to convey the 
party to Hansport, where he embarked on board the 
Styx for St. John's, New Brunswick, which vessel an- 
chored there at ten P.M., after a smooth and delight- 
ful passage down the picturesque Bay of Fundy. 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 47 



CHAPTER lY. 

The Feeling of the People in Regard to the Visit of the Prince— 
His Social Powers and Love of tho Humorous— The Royal Quarters 
on Board the Hero— His Acquaintance with Foreign Languages- 
Personnel of his Suite— His Arrival and Enthusiastic Reception by 
the People— A Visit to the Indians. 

Wherever I went there was but one sentiment 
distinguishing the people with respect to their royal 
visitor, and that was of admiration for the man, and 
loyalty to the throne, which they all hope he may at 
some distant day ascend. 

I may say of the Prince that he is handsome, and 
not only that, but very pleasing in other respects. 
His proportions, although small and delicate, are 
symmetrical, while the play and expression of his 
features are of an order at once intellectual, refined, 
and prepossessing. 

During the voyage from England, he was the most 
lively and social of all on board. He used to sit cross- 
legged, with telescope in hand, signaling the other 
ships of the squadron, alternately asking humorous 
questions, and returning all sorts of jocular replies. 

He was slightly sea-sick during the first two or 
three days when the weather was rougli, but after- 
wards he was hardly ever in his own cabin ten min- 
utes at a time, save at meals, during the whole day. 
Yet he frequently passed in and out. 

He had the entire use of the upper quarter-deck 
cabin, usually occupied by the captain, and into this 
none of the members of liis suite ever entered, unless 
to dine, or by special invitation. 

On walking from the main-deck, where a sentinel 
of marines is at all times pacing to and fro, you enter 



48 ROYALTY m THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

the dining cabin, wliicli is as broad as the quarter- 
deck, but considerably less extensive. Right and left, 
on each side, you see two of the huge ninety-one guns, 
which the ship carries, painted white, and lashed to 
the deck and port-hole loops with thick, heavy ropes 
or hawsers, which are twisted about each of the four 
cannon referred to like so many coils of snakes. A 
mahogany dining-table stands in the centre, together 
with two small card-tables, and twenty two leather bot- 
tomed chairs of the same wood. The walls and ceil- 
ing are painted plain drab, and the only approaches 
to ornament about either, or the cabin, are a few gilt 
lines between the paneling. The floor is covered 
with a thin mottled-red carpet, which, in sobriety of 
look, is in keeping witli everything else in the apart- 
ment. A mahogany sideboard occupies a middle posi- 
tion on the forward side, and over this are suspended 
from the roof four long silver lantern-like candle hold- 
ers, which were once the property of Lord Nelson, 
and used by Iwm on board the Victory, from which 
they were taken after the battle of Trafalgar. These 
had candles burning in them only once during the 
voyage, when the Prince gave a dinner party. 

On the opposite wall hangs, in a plain narrow 
frame, an engraved portrait of Nelson, in his uniform, 
and surrounded by cliarts, and with one arm leaning 
on a table, and immediately underneath is a cabinet, 
which was made out of the timbers of the old Victory 
herself. 

A doorway, facing the outer one, leads into his sit- 
ting cabin, which is a well-window lighted, and a very 
comfortable room, furnished with a table in the cen- 
tre, and two small leather-covered sofas and chairs to 
match. The walls are painted similarly to those of 
the other apartment, and are equally devoid of orna- 
ment. Turning to the right after entering, you step 
into his sleeping cabin, on the right hand side of which 
his cot, lined with a hair mattress, was swung for him 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 49 

every night. On tlie left is a speaking-tube, which 
he used for summoning liis servant, who entered by a 
doorway leading direct into the sleeping chamber, 
and facing the other one. Underneath a plain deal 
board, on which his cot rested by day, were three new- 
looking solid leather portmanteaus, or, as we call 
them, trunks, of which he carried ten in all. He arose 
about eight or nine o'clock in the morning, breakfast- 
ed soon after, lunched at one, and dined at five, with 
whoever he chose to invite, and he always invited one 
or more of the officers, including midshipmen, with 
whom, to use a familiar expression, he was " fond of 
skylarking." He appears to be very fond of the socie- 
ty of his brethren of the rising generation, for at the 
Halifax ball a youthful middy of, I believe, the Hero, 
engaged his conversation at one point of the evening 
more than the partner leaning on his arm. 

And, while speaking of that evening, I must not 
omit to mention that, at dinner, being seated near the 
Portuguese Consul to whom he had been previously 
presented, he began talking Portuguese to him, a lan- 
guage which the consul, being an Englishman, was 
by no means proficient in, and was, therefore, compel- 
led to tell the Prince, that, although the Portuguese 
Consul, he was anything but a Portuguese himself. 
" Did he speak it well ?" I asked the consul. " Oh 
yes, so far as I could judge ; better a good deal, at 
any rate, than I could speak it." 

To return to the Hero. A plain, portable mahogany 
washstand, with a lid that closes over the top, stands 
under the speaking tube, and a small brass wire rack 
is fixed in the wall within reach of his cot wlien 
swung, so that he can place or take away a book 
or such like there while in bed. 

On the deck next below, and directly under the 
Prince's cabins, are those of the Duke of Newcastle, 
and Earl St. Germains, who have separate sleeping 
cabins, but one sitting-room in common. 



50 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

In the latter, alike with that of the Prince, there is 
a bookcase filled with volumes relating almost entire- 
ly to the United States and British North America, 
selected especially for this occasion. All the works 
on this country that could be gathered are on board, 
and have been read witli avidity. Hence, to some 
extent, the ready information expressed with regard 
to places visited, historical and otherwise, in the royal 
replies. 

The Duke is about five feet eleven inches in height, 
and well made. He is easily recognizable by his 
short-cut beard, whisker?, and mustache, which in color 
are sandy, with an inclination to red. His age is a 
little beyond forty. He stands and walks very erect, 
and has a fine gentlemanly bearing. He was always, 
when in company with the Prince, to be seen on his 
left ; and, whenever the latter was in uniform, the 
Duke appeared in that of a Lord Lieutenant — scarlet, 
with silver facings. 

The Earl of St. Germains looks more than ten years 
older, and his hair is gray ; but he has a firm step, a 
quick eye, and great nobility of countenance. He is 
nearly as tall as the Duke, and his uniform is that of 
the Lord Chamberlain, which has gold work on a scar- 
let ground. General Bruce, His Royal Highness' Gov- 
ernor, is a Major General in the army, and of extreme- 
ly affable and refined manners. He is nearly as tall, 
and a little younger than the Earl, but his hair is 
gray also. He wears the uniform of a General, scar- 
let, with gold lace. The remainder of the Prince's 
suite are Major Teesdale and Captain Gray, the 
equerries, who are both young men ; Dr. Acland, phy- 
sician, and Mr. Englehart, secretary, both of whom 
dressed in civil blue uniform, with silver facings and 
cocked hats, whenever the Prince assumed his, and 
exchanged it for plain dress as often. Besides these 
there were several servants of various degrees, in- 
cluding a steward, who, whenever on duty, was in 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 51 

plain evening dress, after the style of gentlemen and 
butlers in England, and one or more footmen, who 
always rode on the box of whatever carriage His 
Royal Highness might be riding in, and wore the 
royal livery. 

When it was first understood that the Prince was 
to sail in the Hero tlie Admiralty prepared to take the 
guns out of the cabin to be used by him, and decorated 
the apartments in regal splendor. But an order came 
from Her Majesty, his mother, to the effect that every- 
thing was to remain in the same order on board, and 
that whatever little addition required to be made for 
his personal accommodation should be of the plainest 
kind. These instructions had, of course, to be obeyed. 

In my observation of the character of the Prince I 
have found that he is full of genuine good-humor, 
which often rises into a bubbling gayety and strong 
relish for fun. He has a quick eye for the ludicrous 
wherever seen, and evidently delights in throwing off 
all state and acting like any common mortal. 

It may be interesting either to learn or be reminded 
that New Brunswick extends nearly north and south, 
and forms an irregular square between Nova Scotia 
and Canada. It is bounded on the north by the Bay 
of Chaleurs and the Gulf of St. Lawrence, which 
separate it from Gaspe, or boundary of Canada. On 
the east it also extends to the Gulf or Northumberland 
Straits. A narrow peninsula joins it to Nova Scotia 
on the southeast, and it is separated from that province 
on the south by the Bay of Fundy, On the west it 
meets the State of Maine. It contains about 26,000 
square miles of territory, which is mostly of a cultiva- 
table character. The county of St. John's, situated at 
the mouth of the river of that name, occupies a long 
and narrow belt of land, forming the north coast of 
the Bay of Fundy, between Cape Eurage and Mace's 
Bay, being more than eighty miles in length, and on 
an average not more than ten miles in breadth. The 



52 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

whole shore is rocky, and here and there bounded by- 
precipitous cliffs. The liarbor of St. John's is safe, but 
not very commodious, especially at low water. The 
tides rise twenty-six feet, so leaving long shores at 
low tide. Partridge Island is situated at the mouth 
of the harbor, and on it there are a battery, lighthouse, 
signal station, and hospital. Between the island and 
mainland there is a long narrow bar, to be seen at low 
water. Eastward of the harbor there is a broad shal- 
low estuary, terminating in a marsh, and a deep ravine 
that runs westward and separates the town of Port- 
land from St. John's. The harbor of St. John's has the 
important advantage of being accessible at all seasons 
of the year. The town is built on a rocky peninsula 
of very uneven ground, sloping in opposite directions 
from a central ridge. The whole shore is lined with 
timber ponds, booms, and ship-yards, which receive 
the numerous rafts floated down the river. A little 
more than sixty years ago the site of the city was a 
rocky headland, covered with cedar thickets. It was 
then the refuge of American loyalists, by whose in- 
dustry it was founded. Up to the year 1784 it was a 
part of the colony of Nova Scotia, but in that year a 
rupture occurred, which led to its becoming a separate 
province. 

On the morning following my arrival at St. John's 
the streets were busy with the stir of human life, and 
the hum of voices tilled the air. Most of the shop 
doors were open, but their shutters were closed, and 
a general holiday appeared to be the order of the 
day. 

At ten o'clock I followed the crowd on foot to 
Reed's Point Wharf, where the landing was to take 
place. The Styx, gayly dressed with flags, lay mid- 
stream, opposite, at anchor, and workmen were busy 
erecting the stage on which His Royal Highness was 
to step from the boat. The guard of honor of the 
Sixty-third Regiment, from Halifax, lined the way 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 53 

nearest the water, and after them came the volunteers 
and the trade and other societies. The Lieutenant 
Governor of New Brunswick was in waiting between 
the ranks, as also several of the municipality of the 
town. On either side, amphitheatric seats of tempo- 
rary construction, were crowded with thousands of 
the loyal and curious, who cast eager glances towards 
the man-of-war, whose yards were already being 
manned. Suddenly, and while the carpenters were 
still at work on the stage, there arose a general shout 
of " Here he comes," and true to the words, a boat 
with the royal standard fluttering at its peak, came 
bounding towards the shore. Then boomed out the 
glorious music of the loud-tongued cannon in a royal 
salute, with whicli the voices of the masses blended in 
a grand chorus of welcome. Hurrah ! Hurrah ! Hur- 
rah ! shouted the excited multitude in their patriotic 
ardor, and cheers rang again and again till the Prince 
had entered his carriage at the end of the wharf and 
disappeared from their sight, when the cry of welcome 
was taken up and echoed along the ranks by fresh 
multitudes assembled to swell the concourse in lionor 
of tlieir future king. 

I passed from the wharf in the midst of a crowd, to 
which that of the Japanese ball at New York was only 
second, and had the felicity of joining in a foot pro- 
cession as far as the house in which the Prircewas to 
take up his abode. The long street we had to tread 
was very dusty, and the sun was shedding his brilliant 
lustre with oppressive warmth over our heads, and the 
carriages containing the Prince and suite stopped sud- 
denly at irregular intervals, which had the effect of 
damaging the shins of those nearest, and throwing all 
followers back in disorder, to the entire glee of the 
small boys who looked on from the windows and side- 
walks. 

The boys and girls of the united schools threw 



54 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

bunches of flowers at the carriage as it passed through 
the grounds of the house he was to occupy, beyond the 
entrance to which, none but the Prince., his suite, and 
the Governor were allowed to pass. 

Then the procession, which included the Mayor of 
Montreal, who wore the same great big conspicuous 
chain of office around his neck that had attracted so 
much attention on the part of the natives of Halifax, 
retraced their steps over the hot, dusty street, in the 
direction of the Court House, where the Prince met 
them at half-past twelve. There he took his stand on 
the small platfbrm erected for him in front of an open 
space of ground, where about five thousand people, 
with upturned faces, were assembled to look at and 
cheer him while the procession of trades and firemen 
filed past, every now and then halting to give him a 
hearty three times three. 

" Is that all ?" said the Prince, inquiringly, towards 
the end of the long procession, addressing the Duke 
of Newcastle, but the cry was " still they come." 

After tliis he held the levee, which was attended by 
gentlemen in white neckties and clothes to match. It 
was then that the usual addresses were presented. 

The Prince, having passed through this ordeal, 
drove home and changed his uniform for a plain suit, 
in which he drove to Carleton — a suburb of the town 
— and returned to dinner at eight. His own suite, 
and the Governor, and the Attorney General of New 
Brunswick, alone dined with him on this occasion. 

At nine the next morning he was off for Frederic- 
ton. The reception there was enthusiastic enough for 
the place, but a mere lukewarm demonstration com- 
pared with the ovations he was destined to receive 
elsewhere. 

He arrived at half-past six on Saturday afternoon, 
and landed from the steamer Forest Queen at the 
wharf facing the Province Building, where a crowd 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 55 

of about four thousand people had assembled to greet 
him. The Governor accompanied the royal guest to 
Government House, where he was domiciled while in 
Fredericton. 



CHAPTER Y. 

The River St. John— Variety and Beauty of its Scenery — The Recep- 
tion at Fi-edericton — Enthusiasm and Loyal Demonstrations of the 
People there— Visit to the Cathedral — Sermon by the Bishop — 
Visit to the Indian Eucampment — Opening of a New Park under 
the Auspices of the Prince— Excessive Heat of the Day — Ball in 
the Evening — A young Lady throws the Prince a Bouquet, which 
he stoops to pick up— Race on the River between Indian Canoes 
— How the Prince received the Intelligence of his Sister's Ac- 
couchement, etc. 

The river St. John, in New Brunswick, by which 
the Prince traveled to Fredericton, is worthy of a 
fame far more extended than it now possesses. Near 
its mouth, at the harbor of St. John, the scenery is of a 
character as bold and varied as any to be found on the 
Hudson, and far away in the interior, over the entire 
length of its main stream — a distance of three hundred 
and sixty miles — scenes of rare picturesque beauty 
frequently present themselves, while in no part is there 
monotony or utter tameness. About sixty miles above 
Fredericton the river presents a series of falls, which 
descend perpendicularly over a depth of seventy feet. 

New Brunswick gave the Prince a loyal reception, 
but it was second in magnificence to that of Halifax. 
This was as I anticipated. At Halifax there were six 
British ships of war, half a dozen batteries and two 
regiments of the line, besides artillery to thunder out 



66 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

royal salutes in his honor, and it being the capital, and 
his stay there more prolonged than at either St. John's 
or Fredericton, more opportunities were afforded for 
display than at either of the two places named. The 
cheering at the landing stage at St. John^s was not as 
enthusiastic as it might have been, but I rightly attrib- 
uted it to a lack of manner rather than of feeling, for 
I observed an awe, amounting to reverence, pictured 
in the faces of all 1 saw. 

In New Brunswick every demonstration that was 
made was the popular outburst of patriotism and loy- 
alty on the part of the real sinew and muscle of the 
country, the hard-working people, almost entirely un- 
aided by military forces other than those of their own 
local organization, and these did credit to the colony. 
On the banks of the St. John they made their appear 
ance in village groups at several points, and fired a 
salute as the steamer, with the royal standard float- 
ing from her foremast, passed by, while the inliabitants 
testified their loyalty by collecting at every available 
spot and clieeriug vociferously. 

Shortly before eleven o'clock on Sunday morning he 
drove from Government House to the Cathedral, in an 
open carriage. Beside him sat Mrs. Manners Sutton, 
the wife of the Governor, and on the opposite seat the 
Governor himself and the Duke of Newcastle, in plain 
dress, an official cap on the part of the former excepted. 

On the way there was no demonstration whatever 
on the part of the people collectively, nor was any 
crowd assembled, save near the church door ; but in- 
dividuals, from time to time, raised their hats to him, 
to which he responded by raising his own. None but 
regular attendants at the church were admitted till 
after the Prince had entered, and after that the pews 
were quickly filled, and many had only standing room. 

His Royal Highness sat in the Governor's pew, and 
listened to an eloquent sermon by the bishop, with 
much attention. The latter made beautiful allusion 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 57 

to the virtues of his mother, and also his own probable 
career. 

As he drove home again the same quiet prevailed in 
the streets as at his coming, and in his reply to the 
address of the municipality on the following morning, 
he made very tasteful allusion to this observance of 
the Sabbath. At night he strolled to the Indian en- 
campment at tlie river-side. 

The event of the next day following the levee and 
presentation of addresses was the opening of the park 
— a narrow walk, with a total area of only sixteen 
acres — and drawing the plug of a new fountain there- 
in erected. 

After lunching with Mr. Fisher, the Attorney Gen- 
eral, I drove there, and found a large assemblage of 
four thousand people waiting his arrival from Govern- 
ment House, which stands directly opposite at a few 
hundred yards distance. The day was very hot, and 
there was little shelter from the vivid rays of the sun. 
Several hundred school-children were anxiously under- 
going the baking process on a large stand erected for 
their accommodation. Everybody was complaining 
of tlie heat and wishing for the royal presence, wlien, 
at a few minutes after three there arose a cry of " Here 
he is," and all eyes were directed towards a small, 
neat figure stepping into an open carriage at the door 
of the Government House, in front of which waved 
from a flagstaff the royal standard of England. 

The interest quickened, and a few minutes later a 
succession of cheers announced his entry into the so- 
called park. He was in plain costume, and on alight- 
ing was conducted under a wooden awning fronting 
the fountain. Here he drew the plug and a thin 
column of water ascended. The insignificance of the 
jet aroused Inquiry as to the cause, when, lo and be- 
hold, it was discovered that the thirsty multitude of 
spectators had drank nearly all the water out of the 
tank which supplied the said fountain. Such a step 



68 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

from a sublime inauguration to a ridiculous sequel was 
never perhaps before witnessed, and the Prince could 
not suppress smiling at the contre temps. While this 
sickly jet was disporting itself in feeble play, the bak- 
ing children sang the national anthem, with a puerile 
variation, after which they gave three cheers for the 
Queen, and then three for the Prince of Wales, which 
were echoed by the crowd. 

He drove home after this, and remained there till 
he left in his uniform for the ball, at ten o'clock. On 
his arrival there he passed to a private supper-room 
provided for him at the extreme end of the main ball- 
room, between a double line of ladies, with ten of 
whom he afterwards danced as many dances, the first 
being with the wife of the Governor. There was no 
supper to which the company sat down, but a refresh- 
ment table was kept open all the evening. The tickets, 
admitting a gentleman and two ladies, were only five 
dollars each, so that nothing better could be afforded. 
The rooms, too, were consequently overcrowded, and 
those present were of an order less select than at Hal- 
ifax, where the price was ten dollars for gentlemen and 
five for ladies. 

The band of the Sixty-third played excellently, and 
to its inspiriting strains the gay throng glided through 
the terpsichorean mazes to their own evident de- 
light, notwithstanding the limited space they had to 
tread. 

When the Prince was about to step on board the 
Forest Queen, at half-past six on the following morn- 
ing, dressed in a white hat and an Inverness cape 
over a black coat and drab trowsers, a young lady 
threw a bouquet at his feet, upon which he stooped 
and picked it up with alacrity, and returned her a 
very polite bow. 

Several hundreds were collected to see him off, and 
they remained till eight, when, the fog having lifted, 
the steamer started. Meanwhile, the racing on the part 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 59 

of fifteen canoes, manned by Indians of the Milicelt 
tribe, was amusing. 

Tlie Prince Iiad breakfasted at Government House, 
but he dined at one o'clock in the saloon with the rest 
of the passengers on board, including members of the 
New Brunswick Legislature, at the cost of which the 
steamer was provided. 

The same demonstrations on the part of the people 
and volunteers were made along the banks of the river 
as during his coming. 

On arriving at Indian town, he received a telegraphic 
dispatch announcing the accouchement of his sister, the 
Princess of Prussia, which he read with evident pleas- 
ure. On stepping ashore, where the Mayor, Corpora- 
tion, and others, were assembled to receive him, as also 
the volunteer companies, he was greeted with loud and 
prolonged cheering. He had to walk as far as a tri- 
umphal arch before reaching his carriage. When he 
was driven off a procession of the officials formed, and 
a succession of flags and evergreen decorations were 
passed. On arriving at the Suspension Bridge, the 
troops were drawn up while he passed, and a royal 
salute was fired from Carleton Heights. On his reach- 
ing Princess Street, where the Carleton fire companies 
were in waiting, the horses were taken from his car- 
riage to which the drag-ropes of an engine were at- 
tached, and the carriage so drawn by the men, pre- 
ceded by the city band. 

Further on he was greeted with a shower of bou- 
quets, some of which fell into the carriage. One of 
these he picked up, and bowed to the crowd as he 
held it. 

It being a general holiday, all the societies that lined 
the way and joined in the procession on the occasion 
of his first landing were in attendance now, and the 
cheering was far warmer than on the previous Friday. 

A stand full of school-children sang the anthem to 
him at a more advanced point, and during its delivery 



60 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

the carriage was stopped and he sat uncovered. He 
embarked from Rodney's Wharf for the Styx in the 
presence of thousands collected on the water-side, and 
on reaching her took his stand near one of the paddle- 
boxes, and answered the cheers of the crowd by rais- 
ing his hat, till, at a few minutes before five, the Styx 
weighed anchor and receded from their gaze, with 
royalty on her deck and its standard at her main. 



CHAPTER YI. 

General Holiday and Rejoicing of the People — Appearance of the 
City of St. John's after the Prince's Departure — Dinner to the Rep- 
resentatives of the Press— From St. John's to Shediac — View of 
Prince Edward's Island — Facts Concerning the Island — The Way 
in which it was Discovered — Scenes on a crowded Steamboat — 
Scarcity of Hotel Accommodation — Grand Illuminations, etc. 

I WILL now resume the thread of my personal narra- 
tive since arriving at St. John's. When the last echoes 
of the cheers that rose from the thousands of loyal 
New Brunswickers collected on the wharves, and 
casting one last, long, lingering look at the young 
man waving his hat from the paddle-box gangway of 
the receding steamer Styx, had died away, I bent my 
steps from the water-side into the shop-closed streets, 
where all of the few people I saw were idling through 
a general holiday, and where the triumphal arches 
were still spanning the streets in all the ghastliness 
of their decayed finery. The towns reminded me of 
a dining hall after the feast, a ball-room after the 
guests had departed. The spirit that had inspired 
the masses of the population with new life had gone, 



THE PRINCE OP WALES IN AMERICA. 61 

and here alone remained the wreck of the past. But, 
after all, it was not magnificent — not splendid — ruin ; 
for there is but little magnificence or splendor of 
either thought or action about the slow-going inhabit- 
ants of this long-wintered colony ; and it required an 
effort, tlie most extreme of which their unemotional 
nature was capable, to arouse them even to the tame 
demonstration which they made. This says nothing 
against their loyalty — nothing against their love of 
country — but it shows that their susceptibility to 
external influences is slight, and that what would fill a 
Frenchman with the bubbling gayety of extreme ardor, 
and make a New Yorker boil over with the excitement 
of enthusiasm, would upon a native of New Brunswick 
produce hardly any impression deeper than would be 
caused by the common every-day events of life. 

At eight o'clock on the evening alluded to I sat 
down at Stubb's Hotel in company with a hundred or 
more to a public dinner given to the representatives 
of the foreign press accompanying the Prince of 
Wales. I can only speak of this with that sense of 
appreciation which such kindness and hospitality de- 
serves. Both tlie viands and the wine were of the 
first order, and the chief men of the town were pres- 
ent. A torch-light procession of the firemen in honor 
of the guests halted in front of the hotel at about ten 
o'clock, upon which the dinner party adjourned to 
the street door, where a few speeches were made to 
the torch-bearers. The guests afterwards returned to 
the table, where toast-making was commenced and 
continued up to a late hour. 

At eight o'clock on the next morning I left St. 
John's by the railway train for Shediac, thence to em- 
bark for Prince Edward's Island. This railway was 
only opened at the beginning of the month, when the 
Prince of Wales rode by it, in a car specially prepar- 
ed for him, to the steamer Forest Queen, which was 
to convey him to Fredericton ; and this car was on 



62 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

the present occasion reserved for the press. It was 
fitted up like a room, with a sofa and arm-chairs, and 
neatly carpeted. 

The scenery by the way was here and there pretty, 
but of no particular interest, and Shediac was as miser- 
able looking as most of the villages in this part of the 
British Provinces. 

I embarked on board the Arabian steamer at four 
o'clock, togetlier with three hundred and odd more, 
so that the accommodations for passengers were by 
no means of the first order. In fact the passage was 
disgusting to every one of any sensibility. At eleven 
o'clock I stood on deck and saw Prince Edward's Isl- 
and lying before me as flat as a map, for over its hund- 
red and forty miles of length and four to thirty-four 
of breadth, it is one almost even plain of alluvial land, 
without a single rock or even a pebble to harden its 
surface. The soil of the island is the same tli rough- 
out, such being a reddish sand. The chief articles of 
agricultural produce are oats and potatoes ; but as 
the latter are raised more with a view to quantity, 
than quality, they are not of a very superior descrip- 
tion. Cattle of all kinds are fed upon them, pastur- 
age being deficient. The population of the island is 
about sixty thousand, of which eight thousand live in 
Charlottetown and the immediate neighborhood. The 
streets are totally unpaved, but the sidewalks are 
slightly raised above the level of the road. The 
houses, being almost universally built of wood, are by 
no means imposing in appearance, and the only ap- 
proach to a solid piece of masonry is made by tlie 
Colonial Building and the Post-office, both of w^hicli 
are of stone, but the former considerably larger than 
the latter, and both standing in an open space of 
ground called the Square. 

During five months of winter the harbors and rivers 
are frozen over, and used as highroads for the convey- 
ance of produce from the interior. 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 63 

The scenery around Cliarlottetown presents a pic- 
turesque arrangement of land and water, but there is 
a scarcity of wood, which results in a lack of antithesis 
in the landscape. 

I may, perhaps, be expected to say a few words 
respecting' the history of this island of the Gulf of 
St. Lawrence, which the inhabitants tell me is in the 
form of a crescent. 

It is not likely that neglected Columbus, or his 
more-honored successor, Americus Yespucius, or even 
that wanderer in these waters, Sebastian Cabot, ever 
sighted the island, which was called Prince Edward's, 
in honor of the late Duke of Kent, the grandfather 
of the royal Albert Edward who has just been gracing 
the ball-rooms of the New World. 

It is, however, alleged by some that the island was 
discovered by Cabot in 1497, and subsequently redis- 
covered by Vedazzani, a proof that these early events 
are shrouded in mystery, as the records of those navi- 
gators bear no evidence of the fact. 

It is, nevertheless, well known that when the French 
had their garrisons at Quebec and Louisburg, it was 
the principal source of their supplies, and this led to 
its being termed the Granary of North America. 

In 1663 the island was granted by the French to a 
Frenchman, whose name it is not here essential to 
learn, and it subsequently became the rendezvous of 
French families. In 1745 it was captured by the 
New England forces, but restored to France by the 
treaty of Aix la Chapelle. But after the second re- 
duction of Louisburg in 1758 it became permanently 
ceded by treaty to Great Britain, and was, up to 
1770, classed as a part of Nova Scotia. In that year, 
however, it Avas constituted a separate colony, and so 
has remained ever since. The population at that 
period did not amount to more than 4000. 

I will now return to myself, and the crowded 
steamer, from which, as soon as she touched the dark 



64 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

and wooden wharf, I stepped ashore. I had the hap- 
piness or misfortune, as the case may be, to be totally 
unencumbered with baggage — mine having been left 
behind at St. John's, owing to the negligence of the 
parties concerned. There were neither cabs, nor 
porters, nor lights, nor any thing alive to be seen on 
that long, dreary wharf, as I groped along it towards 
the town, which instinct told me lay somewhere ahead. 
I continued groping, and finally stumbled over a little, 
forlorn-looking boy, whom I at once impressed into 
my service in guiding me to a habitation. I passed 
through a deserted street to the chief hotel of the 
place, which looked like the rest of the houses in the 
neigliborhood, with the exception that it was open 
and lighted, whereas all the others were shut and 
dark. Here a woman with a child in lier arms told 
me tliat the house was full. "Aye,'^ said she, " and 
these gents had to sleep on the chairs, although they 
came by telegraph a Aveek ago," I smiled, and again 
walked^ out into the night to seek shelter elsewhere. 
I knocked at several houses, and received answers 
similar to that given by the woman with the child in 
her arms. 

At length I met a tall stranger hurrying on to- 
ward a lighted window, upon which I was myself in- 
tent, and with him were several of my unfortunate 
fellow-passengers, who were for the present equally 
homeless and equally bedless witli myself. This was 
the Mayor. '* Welcome, your worship," I was about 
to exclaim, when his local eminence was made known 
to me, but I didn't. The Mayor tried all his persua- 
sive powers upon the hostess at the house we entered, 
but in vain. After that he hurried away up the 
street, and renewed his application elsewhere. Men 
in night-shirts, candle in hand, unlocked doors and 
opened them, but only to tell us that all was full — 
that no more could be accommodated. At lengtli we 
found a place where the host promised me a reception 



THE PRINCE OP WALES IN AMERICA. 65 

— a bed — but not a room. Here the Mayor bade me 
good-night, and I remained in the hope of rest. 

It was about an hour after this when I was intro- 
duced to a mattress, on the top of sundry chairs, in a 
room in which I found four other sleepers extended on 
as many stretchers. I lay down, but the street noises 
consequent on the landing of the steamer's passengers 
were so great that had it not been for excessive 
fatigue I should hardly have slept ; but I did sleep ; 
and when I awoke early in the morning and looked 
out of the windows I saw hundreds of my own fellow- 
passengers, as well as of those who had come by a 
subsequent steamer, crowding the streets and walking 
about in search of a place of rest. Alas ! said I, for 
the pleasure-seekers (they were excursionists), for they 
seek it and find it not, and after so saying I dressed 
myself and joined the moving multitude. 

The Prince arrived at Hantsport, by the Valorous, 
in the morning at six. He then drove to Windsor, 
where he breakfasted at eight. A special train con- 
veyed him to Truro by twelve, when an address was 
presented, to which he briefly replied. He left at 
one for Pictou, where he arrived at six. At half- 
past eight he embarked on board the Hero, which 
arrived here at noon to-day, in company with the 
Ariadne and Flying Fish. Her Majesty's ship Valor- 
ous had arrived previously, as also the French war- 
steamer Pomona. At half-past one he disembarked 
for the landing stage, where the Governor, the Judges, 
the members of the Legislature, the Mayor and Cor- 
poration, the clergy and the heads of Departments 
were assembled to receive him. Royal salutes were 
thundered from all the war-ships, including the Pomo- 
na, whose yards were manned and rigging dressed 
alike with the others, while at her peak fluttered the 
British flag, the English ships hoisting the French 
one in acknowledgment of the compliment. 

On stepping ashore he shook hands with the Gov- 



66 

ernor, who was in uniform, and bowed to tlie Mayor, 
and then took his seat beside the former in an open 
carriage, and, preceded by militia, cavalry, and band, 
drove to Government House, nearly a mile distant. 
A guard of honor of the Sixty-second regiment, to- 
gether with the local volunteers, lined a portion of 
the way. The Masonic and three other societies 
formed a double line beyond, and joined in as the 
procession passed. 

The cheering was not very energetic, and the 
weather was gloomy and wet. It cleared up during 
the time between his leaving the ship and reaching 
Government House, but after that it rained heavily 
all day. 

There were five triumphal arches erected in the 
town, four of wliich were on the line of procession. 

The illuminations which were attempted in the even- 
ing did, considering the extremely wet and cloudy 
weather, much credit to the natives. The attempt 
was spirited, but the failure desperate. 

On the next day there was a levee at Government 
House, and in the evening a public ball at the Prov- 
ince Building, which was well attended, and at which 
His Royal Highness danced nearly every dance. 

On the morning following he was escorted to the 
water-side, as on his arrival, and there embarked on 
the Hero, shortly after which the squadron sailed for 
Gaspe. 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 67 



CHAPTER VII. 

Incidents on a Journey from Shediac — Crowded State of the Steamers 
— Appearance of Gaspe — Picturesque Scenery on tlie Rivers— The 
Ships of the Royal Squadron— Address from the People of Gaspe 
— Dispatches for the young Prince from his Father, Mother, and 
the Princess of Prussia, etc., etc. 

At half-past two in the morning I wended my way 
in solitude through the deserted streets of Charlotte- 
town in the direction of the wharf where lay the 
Shediac steamer. The night was dark, and the walk 
by no means pleasant, but I am in the habit of taking 
things as 1 find them, and making the best of my lot ; 
so I did not repine. 

When I stepped on board the vessel, I found her, to 
use strong language, terribly crowded — there being 
within her upwards of four hundred and fifty passen- 
gers. These crowded the decks like flies, so that there 
was no sitting, and barely standing room ; and when 
I descended, with considerable difficulty, into the cabin, 
I beheld an accumulation of legs and arms such as I 
had never done before in all my travels. The packing 
was closer than that adopted onboard an African slav- 
er, and the ventilation less perfect. However, I had 
prepared myself to sail in this steamer, so I endured 
the " roughing," and stood and sat in a narrow com- 
pass, and breathing an unwliolesome atmosphere, until 
the wharf at Shediac was reached, at eleven o'clock. 
At three in the afternoon I left in the same steamer 
for Gaspe, the easternmost point of Canada, in order 
to meet the royal squadron again. She had about one 
hundred and twenty passengers on board, and sailed 
in a roundabout route, calling at various places en route. 
The first was Richibucto, the timber port, which I 



68 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

shall long remember, for the reason that, in coming out 
of its harbor, the steamer grounded on a sand-bank, and, 
if it had not been for a fisherman pilot of the place, 
might have remained there for the night, but owing to 
his skill we got off after a delay of about two hours. 
Meanwhile, several persons on board were giving or- 
ders, and the grossest incompetence and want of dis- 
cipline were displayed by each. 

I succeeded in capturing a berth on this night ; but 
the bed linen had been so long away from the wash-tub 
that cleanliness forbade me to do more than throw off 
my more external habiliments, and the shelf was so 
small, and the atmosphere so used up, that my repose 
was by no means luxurious. 

The provisions served at meals were as bad as the 
cooking, and as we messed in the sleeping cabin, the 
only one in the boat, all sorts of nuisances were en- 
countered. The waiters were as disgustingly unclean 
as the general arrangements of the steward, and the 
whole voyage was a miserable purgatory to the pas- 
sengers, who had, nevertheless, to pay enormously high 
fares and half a dollar for every meal in addition. 

Early on the next morning we called at Chatham 
and Newcastle, towns and timber ports on the Mira- 
machi River. It is popularly supposed that there is a 
town or port named Miramachi, but such is not the 
case. Miramachi is a name generally applied to all 
the ports on the river, so called, and within the dis- 
trict. 

In the afternoon of this day we entered the Bay of 
Chaleur, where the sea ran high and the breeze blew 
strongly, and the air was filled with mist. Our vessel, 
having been built for river navigation only, now pitch- 
ed and rolled about in a manner anything but de- 
lightful. 

The bay is ninety miles long by twenty to thirty 
broad, and its shores are pleasantly diversified with 
hill and plain, rocks and grass land. From this we 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 69 

passed into the Restigouche River, and landed })assen- 
gers at Dallioiisie. We then returned to the bay, and 
called at Bathurst and Paspebebita, all fishing and 
timber ports of New Brunswick. 

After this we kept well in with tlie shore, which was 
no longer that of New Brunswick, but of Canada, and 
occasionally stopped to take in passengers that put off 
to us in boats from the adjacent villages. 

The shore was a cliff of red sandstone, backed by a 
chain of rolling hills — a spur of the Alleghanies — 
pleasantly dotted with cottages and small farms. At 
a "point named Cape Despair on the south side of the 
bay, I saw a cross, which denotes the spot where 
Jacques Cartier first landed on discovering Canada. 
Tlie Duke of Kent visited this site in the Leander, 
which, while passing, bumped against a sunken rock, 
but sustained only sliglit damage. 

The most picturesque scenery on the whole bay lay 
a few miles further on, in the midst of which lay em- 
bosomed the fishing village of Perce. We were press- 
ed between the mainland and Bonaventura Island, also 
inhabited by fishermen. Standing at the distance of 
a few yards from the mainland, facing this island, is 
Perce Rock, a tall pillar in the form of a parallelogram, 
with an archway in the centre, through which, at high 
water, a boat may pass. On this rock thousands of 
seagulls were perched, and here they build their nests 
and keep up a perpetual chatter, so much so that the 
fishermen, when overtaken by a fog, ascertain their 
position by the sound from tliis natural bell-tower. 

We rounded a headland after this, and then the 
beautiful Bay of Gaspe opened upon our view. 

Beautiful hills rose on either side as we steamed in- 
to the harbor, and finally into the basin fronting the 
village. Here the water is almost entirely landlocked, 
and the hills rise to an altitude of from fifteen hundred 
to two thousand feet. The village in itself is insignifi- 
cant, yet in the only hotel there I found the ubiqui- 



70 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

tons JYew York Herald. Hie et uhique ought to be its 
motto. It alone is universal among newspapers. 

In the distance we saw the smoke of the ships of the 
royal squadron, which two hours afterwards anchored 
in the bay. 

I slept on board the steamer from Charlottetown 
that night, but on the following morning gladly trans- 
ferred myself to the government steamer Lady Head, 
in waiting on the squadron, where a berth had been 
reserved for me. 



CHAPTER YIIL 

Excursion to meet the Prince. 

■ The Lady Head steamer, by which I traveled from 
Gaspe, came to a full stop opposite Riviere du Loup, 
on the night of the 14th of August at nine o'clock, for 
the purpose of enabling several of the Canadian min- 
istry, who had joined us from the Queen Victoria, to 
go ashore and take their places in a special train for 
Quebec. They went, and I with them, across the dark 
water in a four-oared boat to the landing slip, where 
lay the Magnet, bound for an excursion up the Sag- 
uenay. My object was to take passage in her, so, 
parting from my friends, who had a dreary, jolting 
three-mile ride before them, to the railroad station 
— a lot I by no means envied. I secured a state-room 
in her and retired. This is the end of Act 1. 

Soon after three the paddle-wheels of the steamer 
began creating a sensation in the waters of the quiet 
inlet Avhere she lay, and, awaking, I became conscious 
that she had started on her trip, which the advertise- 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 71 

ments declared to be the only opportunity for meeting 
the Prince in the Saguenay. 

The Riviere du Loup flows into the St. Lawrence 
from its southern side, and away on the other side of 
tlie inlet may be seen the village of that name. 

The mouth of the Saguenay is a rocky gap, situated 
a hundred and thirty miles below Quebec, and this gap 
was filled with mist as we entered. On its lower side 
is a barren and stony point known as L'Islet, and this 
divides the Saguenay from Tadoussac Bay, to the east- 
ward of which two terraces of alluvial land deck out 
the distance ; while in their rear, and almost enfram- 
ing them, are rugged quartz-like elevations, which 
might almost be called mountains, the fissures of which 
are filled with a growth of stunted spruce-trees. 

We passed the cove and lumber village of L'Ance a 
L'Eau on the right, soon after entering, and caught a 
glimpse of the church spire in Tadoussac as we as- 
cended higher. 

People were up early on the lookout for the Prince, 
asking all sorts of questions about him, and appearing 
quite disappointed when they were told he had not 
arrived. 

Whoever admitted to have seen him became at once 
an object of curiosity, and found himself watched and 
pursued at every corner by people anxious to learn 
more, till at length the man who had seen the Prince 
was only second in interest to the Prince himself. 

Away we sped through the cold and gloomy gorge 
of precipitous naked rock, and over the inky flood — 
for the waters of the river are strangely black, and its 
walls look as if they had been long ago cleft asunder 
by some wild convulsion of nature. 

Here and there occurs a narrow ravine through 
which a slender but foaming torrent hurries to its 
bed, and yonder is a sprinkling of strangely dwarfed 
shrubs, quite in character with the strange, sepulchral 
scenery around. 



72 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

A thunder-storm in the Saguenay by night would 
be a glorious scene for the lover of gloomy grandeur ; 
and, if I were certain of the event, I would at any time 
undertake the journey for the mere pleasure of listen- 
ing to the ringing echoes of the thunder, and seeing 
those barren cliffs lighted up with supernatural radi- 
ance. The Saguenay is unique ; but, save at the lofty 
peaks of Capes Trinity and Eternity, it can hardly be 
called magnificent. Like all such places of popular 
resort, its beauties, its wildness, its grandeur, have 
been exaggerated, partly by parties interested in the 
steamboat traffic, and still more by those who, in re- 
counting their travels, are never satisfied to tell a 
plain unvarnished tale, but must ever gild the picture. 

Those who are fond of exploring caves and coal 
mines, the Thames Tunnel, the great tubular bridge, 
and such other regions of shade, will like the Sague- 
nay, for it is the most sombre river in the world. It 
is the best place for enjoying a fit of the blues, or mel- 
ancholy, that I know of. It is an emblem of Lethe, 
and would pass for a channel of the Dead Sea. 

It looks lifeless, but it is not so ; fish abound in its 
waters, and its villages are the resort of anglers. 
There are only about three of these, and miserably 
small and destitute they are, between the mouth and 
Ha-Ha Bay — a distance of sixty miles. The average 
width of the Saguenay is about three quarters of a 
mile. In some places it narrows to a width of less than 
half a mile, and in others expands two miles or more. 
The rocks, in which it is set like a mirror, vary in 
height from three hundred to seventeen hundred feet, 
and these are composed chiefly of sienitic granite and 
gneiss. The water at their base is, near the river's 
mouth, seven hundred feet deeper than the St. Law- 
rence, and averages one thousand feet in depth in the 
main channel all the way to the Grand Bay, as that 
of Ha-Ha is sometimes called. 

One peculiar feature of the scenery is, that wherever 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 73 

there is a projection on one side of the river there is 
a corresponding indentation on the other, which favors 
the before mentioned supposition of its having been 
rent by the elements. 

Eighteen miles above Tadoussac I had a glimpse of 
the island of St. Louis, a rocky mass, covered with 
stunted trees, and rising to the height of three hundred 
feet at its extreme point. 

The St. Marguerite River, a tributary of the Sag- 
uenay, rolled into it from the north, and here I saw 
tlie house and tents which had been fitted up for the 
reception of His Royal Highness during his day's fish- 
ing there. On the opposite side of the river, another 
stream, called the Little Saguenay, joined the larger 
one, and soon after passing that we came to St. John's 
Bay, situated on the southern side, and twenty-seven 
miles from the Saguenay's mouth. Its entrance is two 
miles wide, and it extends two miles inland. The 
mountains which overhang it present some fine sub- 
jects for the hand of the landscape painter. I was 
told, after we had left behind St. John's Bay, that we 
were approaching " the best part of the river," that 
the lofty cape I saw before me, rising seventeen hund- 
red feet above the water, was Cape Eternity. The 
very name was calculated to awe me, if I had been of 
a more impressible nature. I gazed with interest, yea, 
with admiration, on its colossal form, and my eye ling- 
ered, as the bee might linger on the flower, with a keen 
appreciation of the picturesque, upon a gurgling cas- 
cade that poured from its summit into the ravine on 
some projecting bowlder a thousand feet above me. 

The river grew darker as we passed beneath, and 
nearly all the passengers swarmed to the right-hand 
side of the steamer, and with upturned faces, contem- 
plated this handiwork of nature. 

We were now in Trinity Bay, on the southern shore 
— a capacious estuary, semicircular in shape and sur- 
rounded with rocks, save at its mouth, which is a mile 

4 



74 KOYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

wide. Cape Trinity stands vis-a-vis with Eternity, 
and the steamer passed close under it. 

Pine and spruce trees flourish in the fissures of both 
these lofty peaks, which stand like sentinels to guard 
the entrance to the bay. 

Statue Point was the next great object of attention. 
It is a tall promontory, on Avliich, at an elevation of 
eight hundred feet, is a niclie of an irregular Gothic 
shape, supposed to he the outlet of a cave. The name 
originated from the fact of there having been at one 
time a rock resembling a statue at its entrance. The 
Pictures next strike tlio eye. They are very abrupt 
rocks, like the rest of the river scenery, rising to the 
height of a thousand feet on the south side of the 
river, and presenting nearly an even surface. 

x\s we neared our destination, a young lady with a 
characteristic display of wonder, called my attention 
to another lofty elevation, known as East Cape, by ex- 
claiming, " Oh ! look at that !" 1 looked and saw a 
ragged and perpendicular cliff, the sides of which were 
diversified with dwarfed trees and bowlders of granite. 

Soon after this we reached Ha-Ha Bay, and saw on 
its southern shore the village, over which floated 
about thirty flags, chiefly British ensigns and union- 
jacks. 

A huge pile of deals occupied one extremity of it, 
and denoted the site of saw-mills, which are owned by 
a large lumber merchant of the district. 

The steamer no sooner stopped than she became the 
centre around which nearly a dozen boats began to 
ply, some for passengers, others for the sale of poultry 
and blueberries, the latter being so cheap and abundant 
that in a few minutes several large baskets full of them 
were purchased by the passengers. Blueberrries ap- 
peared to be every man's property, for I observed that 
whoever had a peck or so of them before him, had in- 
numerable visitors, who helped themselves unceremo- 
niously from his pile and then walked away, eating 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 75 

the fruits of their own coolness. French, or rather a 
French patois, is the prevailing language of the vil- 
lagers, wlio supply the wants of nature by fishing, rear- 
ing poultry, and cultivating such scanty crops as the 
soil enables them. 

Ha-Ha is a ridiculous name, said to have originated 
from the circumstance of the first explorers of the bay 
laughing aloud to the tune of ha ha, in consequence of 
their joy at finding a landing place and anchorage 
after the long journey over the deep channel of the 
river. 

The steamer's passengers were not expected to go 
ashore, as the vessel was only to remain three quarters 
of an hour, and very few of them did so. 

There is another small village at the extreme head 
of the bay, or basin, as it ought to have been called, 
and this, with the other, is inhabited by about four 
hundred people, all of whom, with two or three excep- 
tions, belong to the laboring classes. There is a 
church, resembling a magnified toy, in the centre of 
the larger village, both of which, I may remark, are 
situated on the banks of a stream. Water-power is 
thus obtained for driving the saw-mills alluded to. 

The bay is nearly circular in shape, and nearly two 
miles wide, with mountains as its frame-work. 

The steamer arrived at eleven, and left soon after 
noon on her return to the Riviere du Loup and Que- 
bec. 

The weather was misty and showery, and tlie spir- 
its of all were damped, for the reason that they had 
expected to meet the Prince, and they had not met 
him. 

At three o'clock, however, there was a rush to the 
deck to see an approaching steamer. It was the 
Queen Victoria, and the royal standard fluttered from 
her main-mast. Everybody stared at the vessel in si- 
lence, but they did not recognize the Prince standing 
on the deck, and, as a consequence, but few cheers 



76 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

distinguished the event. The master of the boat, with 
a surprising simplicity, blew the engine whistle, as a 
signal for the royal steamer to stop, in order that he 
might deliver a bag of dispatches he had on board for 
His Royal Highness, and enable his passengers and 
himself to have a good stare at him. But, of course, 
the Queen Victoria, treating the whistle in question 
with silent contempt, passed on, to tlie terrible indig- 
nation of the blower. 

We subsequently went alongside the Hero and de- 
livered the bag of dispatches, and then pursued our 
journey to the Riviere du Loup, where the steamer 
was moored for the night. 



CHAPTER IX. 

Pictorial Glimpses of the Prince's Travels — Movements on tlie River 
Saguenay — The Prince as a Fisherman — The Scenery on the St. 
Lawrence — The Prince's Reception Room — View of the Citadel — 
Grand Show of Regulars and Volunteer Troops — Enthusiasm on 
the Approach of the Hero — Hearty Welcome to the young Prince 
— Exciting Scenes on the Landing of the Prince — Immense Con- 
course of People— Order of the Procession— Grand Illuminations, 
etc., etc. 

I AM about to give you a pictorial glimpse of the re- 
ception given to His Royal Highness the Prince of 
Wales at Quebec ; but before doing so I will recur to 
the time at which I last left him. 

The Prince did not, as was anticipated, remain in 
the Saguenay on Wednesday night ; but after proceed- 
ing in the Queen Victoria, with the Governor General, 
forty-five miles up the river, returned to the Hero at 
nightfall. 



THE PRINCE OP WALES IN AMERICA. 77 

Owing to the wet and misty weather, rough clothes, 
including water-proofs, were in general use on board. 
When the steamer was near Cape Eternity, some of 
her guns were fired, in order that the party might be 
amused by hearing the echoes that rang back from the 
rocks around, and the effect was as fine as anticipated. 

The next morning dawned more favorably than its 
predecessor, and the Prince re-embarked in the little 
steamer, and sailed again up the Saguenay as far as 
the village of St. Marguerite, at the mouth of the river 
of that name, where he spent the greater portion of 
the morning in fishing, alike with those who accom- 
panied him. But, unfortunately, he had no luck, and 
only a few trout were caught by the united rods. 

After luncheon, the entire party, taking advantage 
of the tide, ascended the St. Marguerite in birch ca- 
noes, paddled by French Canadians, the Prince being, 
as ever, foremost in this aquatic procession. 

The Flying Fish, having on board many of the offi- 
cers of the squadron, also steamed up the Saguenay 
on the same day, and as she passed the tents where the 
Prince's standard hung from its staff, a salute of 
twenty-one guns was fired by her, the echoes of which 
muttered in sublime accents from the neighboring 
cliffs and more distant liills. 

Had it not been for the mishap of the Hero ground- 
ing on Bar Reef, at the mouth of the Saguenay, the 
Prince would have sailed up in her ; but on the occur- 
rence of this accident — the second of the kind witliin 
two days — he transferred himself to the Governor Gen- 
eral's steamer that was to have followed. 

The boat in which I made the excursion up the Sag- 
uenay took in at Murray Bay, a point between the 
Riviere du Loup and Quebec, one hundred additional 
passengers, which resulted in a tremendous rush for 
the dinner tables when the doors of the dining saloon 
were thrown open, for " first come, first served," was 
the guiding rule on the occasion. 



78 

I need not describe tlie bright and beautiful scenery 
of the St. Lawrence, for tlie theme has been long and 
oft dilated upon, and, as time presses, I must hurry on. 
The Isle of Orleans, within five miles of Quebec, di- 
vides the river into the north and south channels, and 
has a very picturesque effect. It was called by Jacques 
C artier the Isle of Bacchus, owing to the number of 
wild vines that in his day — some time during 1535 — 
flourished over its extent. It is twenty-one miles long 
and five broad. Its upper extremity is near the mouth 
of the Montmorenci River, and within full view of the 
Falls.of that name, a pleasing glimpse of which I ob- 
tained from the steamer's deck, as they are situated only 
a few hundred yards from the main channel of the St. 
Lawrence, and conspicuously visible to all passing.- 

On the north side of the highest point of land on 
the island may be seen the second of a chain of flag 
and ball telegraphs, erected by the British during the 
last American war, and extending from Quebec to 
Green Island, opposite the mouth of the Saguenay. 
Tillages and churches may now be seen on either side 
of the river ; and looming ahead, at the curve of the 
river, near its junction with the St. Charles, stands 
the imposing city of Quebec, situated, for the most 
part, on a cliff three hundred and fifty feet high, and 
defended on the St. Lawrence side by a citadel, and 
elsewhere by formidable ramparts. 

Numerous vessels were sailing within view, while 
higher up than the city lay a fleet of merchant craft, 
with the frigate Nile and the Valorous, both of which 
had arrived at ten that morning from Prince Edward's 
Island, lying in the foreground. 

On the morning after my arrival I drove to the 
Citadel, and had an inside look at the heavy cannon 
and square piles of cannon-balls, which are painted 
black in the most peaceful manner every two years. 
The river side of the Citadel is occupied principally 
by a building used as officers' quarters, and elsewhere 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 79 

by barracks and storehouses. The place would be 
hardly worth cab hire and the fee which the soldier 
at the lodge expects for showing the visitor round, 
were it not for tlie delightful view of the St. Lawrence 
and St. Charles Rivers which is here afforded. 

Friday niglit, from the appearance of the sky, prom- 
ised rain, and the dawn of Saturday was dull and 
showery. The streets looked like so many avenues, 
owing to the sidewalks being planted with spruce 
boughs to an extent which hardly allowed of a passage 
way for even one at a time ; and, as these were loaded 
with moisture, every one who brushed against them 
received a little of it. This was unpleasant, and much 
impeded traffic, the cartway being too muddy to tempt 
pedestrians. 

As the morning advanced tlie thoroughfares became 
more crowded, and only then the last nails were being 
driven into the arches, and the last branches of ever- 
green matted into place. About two the current of 
traffic set in strongly towards the Citadel and tlie water- 
side respectively, and this continued till the time of 
landing. Meanwhile, the various stands about the city 
had been filling up rapidly, windows had become occu- 
pied, soldiers of the line and volunteer companies had 
lined the streets, as well as they could, and all Quebec 
had turned out of doors to see the landing or proces- 
sion. And during this time the huge dark form of 
the Hero, which, since her last groundhig at the Sag- 
iienay, had been making four inches of water an hour, 
followed by the Ariadne, and the sharp-prowed Fly- 
ing Fish, was steaming up the river, with His Royal 
Highness on her quarter-deck, dressed in a tweed 
shooting suit, and looking so unlike what is expected 
tliat the eager sight-seers crowding the twenty excur- 
sion steamers in her vicinity hardly glance at him, but 
cheer every young officer in uniform that makes his 
appearance, everybody being, nevertheless, in doubt 
as to who's who. There is the Jenny Liud, from 



80 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

Montreal, whose passengers have been peeping into 
the Hero's port-holes all the way up from where the 
squadron anchored last night, so daring has her com- 
mander been in keeping her close alongside. There 
are plenty of pretty girls to be seen on board of her, 
and these are exchanging harmless glances with those 
on the Hero, Albert Edward included. 

There is a grand, a mighty, a swelling, a joyous 
chorus of welcome, filling the air as the Hero is about 
to drop anchor opposite the Champion Market. It 
comes from yonder thousands assembled on the Citadel 
walls, and irom other thousands on the strand and 
wharf, and surrounding roofs, and balconies, and 
steamers, and ships, and river boats, and wherever 
else the human form can cling, and from the descend- 
ants of the French as well as the English. Welcome 
to their roar ! And now listen to the hearty cheers 
of those crews manning the yards of the Admiral's 
fleet, which display their thousand flags, fluttering 
from the rigging, for Her Majesty's ships are dressed 
in honor of her son. A royal salute was fired from 
these and the Citadel as the Hero neared the anchor- 
age ground, and there will be none now till the real 
hero leaves his ship for the shore. 

There is no mistake about the feeling of welcome 
among all classes here, for on every side there are evi- 
dences of it. There is not a house to be seen without 
its flag or its evergreen or illumination device, and 
every word the people utter, whether in French or 
Englisli, expresses genuine loyal pleasure at the visit 
of the Prince of Wales. 

It is now half-past three, and the Hero drops anch- 
or. Under a circular wooden canopy, fronting the 
landing steps, are gathered the Governor General and 
the Ministry, in their civic uniforms of blue and gold ; 
the British minister at Washington, Lord Lyons, and 
his two attaches ; the Commander of the Forces, Sir 
Fenwick Williams, of Kars : the Protestant and Ro- 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 81 

man Catholic bishops, and several of the Catholic 
clergy, all in their robes ; the Mayor of . the city and 
several of the Municipal Council, together with other 
officers, civil and military, and many members of the 
Legislature. These are in waiting to receive the illus- 
trious visitor on the threshold of the city, and as the 
yards of the fleet are being manned, the chief among 
them step down to the water-side where the royal 
barge is to touch. 

Minutes of suspense now ensue. The horses of the 
military congregated on the town side of the canopy 
manifest a good deal of high-blooded restlessness, and 
their riders are as eager in their glances towards the 
Hero as the crowd generally. 

The time has now come. The Hero has swung 
round, and the Prince has stepped into the boat from 
the gang-way, on the Point Levi side, so that while all 
are looking for his appearance at the one nearest, the 
standard is lowered from* the mast-head, and a boat 
with another such standard fluttering from its peak 
rounds tlie ship, and" appears in full view. And now 
the flag-sliip fires the first of her twenty- one guns, 
which is the signal for the rest to pour forth their 
volleys in concert with the Citadel. 

The natural clift' of Cape Diamond forms a massive 
and splendid background of an order the most pictur- 
esque. The Prince ascends the carpeted steps, and 
halts under the canopy amid renewed cheers, which he 
acknowledges by bowing in his usual graceful manner. 
His manner wins all hearts, and they hail him as a 
friend. 

The Mayor is presented to him, and he bows ; after 
which the former reads an address of welcome to him 
in French, and afterwards a translation of the same 
into English. The Prince listens with courteous atten- 
tion, but a smile is traceable beneath the surface as he 
hears the address in the first language. 

The Mayor has finished, and he advances and hands 



82 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

copies of both to the Prince in person, who, assuming 
an expression of earnest gravity, receives his reply 
from the Duke of Newcastle, on his left, and reads it 
in that firm, clear manner for which his mother has 
been so long celebrated, and he wears the same regal 
yet unostentatious look as she does so. 

The reply, alike with its predecessors, is well word- 
ed, and in excellent taste. He hands the copy to the 
Mayor, and there is a mutual bow. 

There is a dead silence of some seconds' duration, 
when some one of the local authorities breaks it by 
exclaiming " Three cheers for the Prince,'' upon whicli 
there is a grander chorus of voices than has yet been 
heard. It rings from the wharf to the Citadel, and 
the Citadel to the wharf, and " one cheer more" is 
responded to with undiminished enthusiasm. The 
Prince, with uncovered head, bows again and again, 
and is then conducted to his carriage, whicli is drawn 
by four dark bays, and driven by a coachman in the 
reddest of livery. The Governor General, the Duke 
of Newcastle, and Earl St. Germain, take their places 
with him, and the carriage moves away in the order of 
procession, saluted with renewed cheers on all sides. 

After this the other carriages to join in the proces- 
sion. came up, and moved on as fast as they were occu- 
pied. The Quebec Cavalry took up position, as an 
escort, to the Governor General's residence, whither 
the Prince was going, and the Prince's standard si- 
multaneously waved over the landing place, the Cita- 
del, and the house of the Governor General. 

The decorations over the whole line of route were 
very abundant, and the cheering vociferous. Crowds 
lined the whole way, and every window had its occu- 
pants. Arch succeeded arch at short intervals from 
the wharf to the Government House, a distance of 
more than five miles, and nearly every arch had its 
motto and device. 

The procession, on arriving at St. John's toll-gate, 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 83 

opened files, facing inward, and lined the road for the 
passage of the Prince's and other carriages. 

In the evening the illuminations presented from the 
river a long and glittering line, which was the finest 
sight of the kind I ever saw. In detail, however, they 
were less imposing, although, for Quebec, tliey were 
quite equal to what I had anticipated, and did much 
credit to the city. As at Halifax, on the night ap- 
pointed for the general illumination, the weather was 
dark and wet, and the showers which had fallen at 
intervals throughout the day, made the streets exceed- 
ingly muddy. Yet, notwithstanding, the streets were 
thronged with perambulating crowds. 

I have seen much finer illuminations, but they were 
produced by gas jets, whereas those of Quebec were 
chiefly transparencies lighted with oil lamps and can- 
dles. The illumination was universal, and, as a whole, 
far surpassed the display of tlie kind made at Halifax. 



CHAPTER X. 

Proposed Federation of the Province, with the Prince of Wales as 
Viceroy — The Prince at Church— His Visit to the Falls of the 
Chaudiere — Description of the Falls, etc., etc. 

I WILL commence my present chapter by making 
allusion to what I have hitherto remained silent upon, 
namely, a federation of the British North American 
provinces, with, very likely, Albert Edward, Prince of 
Wales, as Viceroy. This, I have every reason to be- 
lieve, is not only possible, but highly probable. 

Th§ Dukp qf Newcastle, who has long been the chief 
supporter of moderate liberalism in England, is not 
here inerely as an attendant upon royalty, but to as- 



84 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

certain the state of feeling throughout these colonies, 
with a view to tlie consolidation referred to in the 
event of sucli being at any time deemed desirable by 
the mother country ; for circumstances may arise in 
which such a union would, not only give her strength, 
but insure safety to these possessions. 

The feeling throughout the provinces is universally 
in favor of such a consolidation of England's colonial 
empire in North America. The inhabitants are averse 
to the distinctions of Newfoundlanders, Nova Scotians, 
New Brunswickers, Prince Edward Islanders, Cana- 
dians, and British Columbians. They wish to be all 
included under the one general head, and have one 
government in common, whicli, from its superior ex- 
tent, would insure greater rewards and more honors 
than now exist among them. 

There is so much petty party bickering now in 
existence in the North American colonies, that the 
system must be enlarged to avert the catastrophe of 
its breaking in pieces. 

It is, I am certain, the political future of the whole 
of British America to become one, to be ruled by a 
single Legislature, and to have laws in common. But 
how soon this result will be arrived at I cannot say. 
Meanwhile, England is well aware of her necessity for 
maintaining the prestige which the possession of these 
colonies secures her, and the immensity of the disaster 
which their loss would inflict upon her political stand- 
ing. A war between England and France would, un- 
der the present Emperor, probably lead to the capture 
of one or more of the British colonies referred to, but 
it is probable that were a political union of the prov- 
inces to exist, such would never occur. They would 
in themselves be too strong for any such attempt to 
meet with success. 

On Sunday niorning the Prince drove in an open 
carriage from the residence of the Governor General 
to the English Cathedral, where he attended Divine 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 85 

service. As at Fredericton, members of the congre- 
gation only were admitted previous to his arrival, in 
company with tlie Governor ; his own suite, and the 
otlicr distinguished personages officially in Quebec. 
When, at half-past ten, the party arrived, they were 
received at the side door by the bishop and clergy of 
the cathedral, who bowed most graciously. The Prince 
then proceeded to the Governor General's pew, which 
had been fitted up with crimson velvet, a throne, and 
sofas, for the occasion. 

The Bishop preached an excellent sermon, at the end 
of which, he made a brief but graceful allusion to the 
presence of the Prince. 

No demonstration was made by the people in the 
streets as the royal party drove past, and pedestrians 
Avere nearly as few and the general quiet as complete 
as on an ordinary Sunday. 

The Prince remained at home during the rest of 
the day. 

On the next morning, at a few minutes before noon, 
the Prince, in company with the Governor General and 
his suite, left the Government House for Cape Rouge, 
where he embarked in a boat for the opposite side of 
the St. Lawrence, on his way to the Falls of the Chau- 
diere ; and this, notwithstanding the dull and rainy 
weather and the muddy roads — facts that left the party 
with a mere half dozen strangers, enterprising enough 
to accompany them on the excursion. 

The Falls alluded to, which are situated about a mile 
below the railway tubular bridge, on the river from 
which they derive their name, are inferior in both 
volume and beauty to either those of St. Anne's or 
Montmorenci. Nevertheless, they are one of the sights 
which the tourist through Lower Canada is expected 
to visit. The distance from Quebec to the Falls is 
about nine miles, and the most convenient way of 
performing the journey is to hire a caleche, the driver 
of which will take you there and back for three dollars. 



86 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WOULD ; OR, 

The ferry steamer plying between the Lower Town and 
Point Levi will convey horse and veliicle across the 
river, after which there is a good and direct road to 
the required spot. The time occupied in going and 
returning is usually about three hours. 

Tlie river at the cascade is narrower than elsewhere, 
being only four hundred feet across. The depth of the 
Falls is alDOut a hundred and thirty-five feet, and these 
are divided by rocks into three currents, of which the 
one on the western side is the largest. These partially 
reunite before their broken and agitated waters are 
received into the basin, where the visitor looks down 
into a turbulent whirlpool. Owing to the shape of the 
rocks, a portion of the flood is diverted into an oblique 
direction beyond the line of the precipice, while their 
cavities increase the foaming fury of the hurrying 
stream as it flings itself wildly into the gulf, sending 
up meanwhile a cloud of spray, which in the sun be- 
comes a rainbow. 

The forest scenery around contrasts well with this 
rocky and troubled scene, and those who love the 
country will feel pleasure in the prospect, for it is a 
rural, lonely spot. 

Like all waterfalls, they look well whether viewed 
from above or beneath, and the Prince did not miss 
the opportunity of scanning them from both points, 
for he has an inquiring, ardent mind, and likes to see 
everything that is to be seen. He is an observant, 
pleasant traveler, enthusiastic, persevering and over- 
flowing with good spirits, and, I warrant, could write 
a capital narrative of his New World experiences. 

The weather continued wet and dreary throughout 
the afternoon. At four o'clock the august party re- 
turned to Government House by the same route as on 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 87 



CHAPTER XL 

Closing Scenes in Quebec. 

^ The necessity of embracing the entire tour in a 
single volume compels me to compress my narrations 
into as small a compass as possible, which is a circum- 
stance yery adverse to excellence of composition. 

The great event of Tuesday, the 21st of August, 
was the levee at the Province Building, upon w'hich 
occasion the Speakers of the Upper and Lower Houses 
of the Colonial Parliament were knighted. I was 
present and saw the slender burnished blade of the 
Duke of Newcastle's sword passed to the hand of the 
Prince, who waved it gently from the left shoulder to 
the right of the gentleman in the long robe, who rose 
Sir Narcisse Belleau, an honor which was a few mo- 
ments later shared by one of tlie great Smith family, 
surnamed Henry. 

In the afternoon, His Royal Highness and suite 
drove out to the Falls of Montmorenci, and afterwards 
walked a mile or more across some fields to the natural 
steps, so called from a succession of rocky shelves 
over whicli the waters of the Montmorenci River rush 
wildly through a gloomy gorge. 

Li the evening, the citizens' ball, in his honor, took 
place. It was attended by the elite of the city, and 
was brilliantly successful, and much enjoyed by His 
Royal Highness, who took part in every dance. 

On the following day the illustrious scion of the 
House of Hanover visited the La Yal University, a 
seminary for priests, where an address was read to him. 
He afterwards drove to the Ursuline Convent, where 
the lady inmates sang with touching effect to a guitar 



88 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

accompaniment, the following song of welcome in his 
presence : 

CHORUS. 

Hark ! hark ! a merry, merry peal 

Rings out o'er all the land ; 
Its echoes through the cloisters steal, 

It fires our youthful band. 
Bring harp and sing ; let melody, 
Let joy, gush forth in numbers free ! 
Thy welcome Prince, is sounding still, 
Thy welcome is that merry peal 

Of joy o'er all the land. 

SOLO. 

'Tis gladness all thy welcoming 

From Albion's isle afar ; 
And loyal hearts their homage bring 

To hail thy rising star ; 
And joyous youth their promise tell. 
While tuneful notes of triumph swell ! 
Lo ! Briton's heir deigns here to rest, 
Oh ! haste to greet our royal guest. 

CHORUS. 

Wake, wake, another merry peal, 

And let it echo long, 
While wishes for the Prince's weal 

Are mingled with our song. 
May every blessing on thee rest ! 

Thus rings the merry peal, 
And thus we hail thee, royal guest, 

Thus pray we for thy weal, 

AVhile still that merry peal 

Rings loud and echoes long. 



He also received and replied to an address from 
the nuns. 

In the evening there was a grand display of fire- 
works at the expense of the Government, at which 
a serious accident occurred, by the breakdown of a 
stand full of people. 

On the next morning the Prince left the Parliament 
House to embark for Montreal. The weather was 
beautifully warm and sunny, and the soldiers of the 
Seventeenth Regiment were stationed along the line of 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 89 

route, while the Quebec Cavalry acted as a guard of 
honor by accompanying the royal carriage. 

On the wharf were collected the members of the 
Executive Council, the Mayor and Corporation, and 
the masters of various national societies. 

As the royal cortege passed along, the cheers of men 
and the waving handkerchiefs of women denoted the 
highest enthusiasm. A glorious chorus of voices filled 
the air as he stepped from his carriage at the point of 
embarkation, where many thousands were assembled 
to do him honor, and still louder was the burst of ex- 
cited loyalty and admiration as he embarked on the 
steamer. Then, too, the loud-tongued cannon rolled 
out the terrible music of a royal salute, and the crews 
that manned the yards of the men-of-war waved their 
hats and raised their voices in a grand unity of praise. 
From the Citadel, from the ships, from the battery 
overlooking the St. Charles, came the thunder and 
smoke of the iron-mouthed guns, and flags waved, and 
wavelets glittered, and magnificent was the view. 
But, in the midst of all this, I saw a tear course down 
a maiden's cheek. I had seen her dancing with the 
Prince at the ball. If I had- been a maiden I might 
also have wept myself. Alas, that regrets are vain. 
The steamer recedes from my view. Cheers ring 
again and again. They are answered by a wave of 
the hat. Adieu ! 

That morning Major General Bruce had sent to the 
Anglican Bishop of Quebec a Bible, on the fly leaf of 
which was written by a royal hand, " To the Cathedral 
of Quebec, in memory of Sunday, August 19, 1860. 

Albert Edward." 

The book was exquisitely bound, and bore the arms 
and crest of the giver on the cover. 

At four o'clock that afternoon I left the city for 
Montreal, on board the steamer Quebec, which had 
been chartered by the Government for the conveyance 



90 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

of members of the Legislature desirous of being pres- 
ent at the festivities there. 

^ By leaving thus early in the day I enjoyed a good 
view' of the beautiful river scenery for some hours. 

A meeting was held on board, at which it was re- 
solved tliat the vessel should anchor at Three Rivers 
during the night, and sail up with the Prince in the 
morning. 

When we arrived at that point, at half-past ten, the 
whole of the water-side was beautifully illuminated, 
and the royal steamer lay at anchor a few hundred 
yards from the pier. 

The Prince had landed there, under an arch and 
canopy erected for the occasion, at half-past six, and 
was honored with a salute from a corps of Eoyal Ar- 
tillery and a company of Montreal Light Infantry. 
He was received by the Mayor and Corporation, the 
clergy, public officers, and citizens, who presented an 
address to him, which elicited a brief but appropriate 
response, after the delivery of which he returned to 
the steamer. 

When I awoke, we were steaming up the St. Law- 
rence, with the royal steamer a short distance ahead. 
It was raining heavily, and the day promised badly. 
But, notwithstanding its being misty and gloomy, and 
wet, Montreal excursion steamers from about ten 
o'clock met us, with their decks crowded with thou- 
sands of men, women, and children. These steamers 
blew the whistle and turned back to accompany us, 
their passengers, meanwhile, cheering vociferously, and 
in one instance singing " God save the Queen." 

Steamer after steamer joined us as we advanced, the 
decks equally crowded with people wet to the skin, 
notwithstanding their umbrellas, for the rain was too 
heavy and drifting to be escaped. 

At two o'clock the Kingston stopped to await the 
proper time (three P.M.) for approaching the city. 
She was now three miles below it. 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 91 

We left her behind, and, steaming up to the quay, 
landed. The rain had by this time ceased, and there 
was every promise of a line afternoon. Nevertheless, 
the Mayor had issued a proclamation to the effect that 
owing to the state of the weather the reception would 
be postponed till the morning following. Tlie tens 
of thousands who had prepared themselves for the 
event were, therefore, left to go home again. 

In firing the salute in honor of His Royal Highness'' 
approach, three men were killed on board the Flying 
Fish, and one on the Yalorous. 



CHAPTER XII. 

The First day in Montreal. 

The morning of Saturday the 25th of August, broke 
wet and gloomy. This gave rise, I heard, to a wag 
remarking that His Royal Highness was not only heir 
apparent to the British throne, but the Raining Prince. 
Before eight o'clock, however, the rain had ceased, 
and the current of traffic set in strongly towards the 
river-side. At a few minutes before nine — the hour 
appointed for the landing — I drove to Bonsecours Mar- 
ket, and then walked through the mud between lines 
of citizens, kept in order by a few policemen, towards 
the wharf near the extreme end of whicli stood the tri- 
umphal arch or pavilion. 

There I found the Ministry in their Third-Class uni- 
form, members of the Upper House in their regulation 
steel-buttoned coats, many of the Lower House in even- 
ing dress, the Anglican Bishop and clergy and several 
of the Roman Catholic Hierarchy, the Admiral of the 
Fleet, and other naval officers, the members of the 



92 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

Executive Committee, and lastly, but mightiest of all, 
the Mayor in his scarlet robe. He stood foremost of 
the gToup in all the pride and majesty of office, and was 
evidently eager to give the Prince a fervent welcome. 
The steamer Kingston painted white, and with the 
plumes and motto of the Princes of Wales painted on 
her paddle-boxes was only a few yards distant from 
the wharf, but, owing to tlie awkwardness displayed 
in getting her alongside, more than a quarter of an 
hour elapsed before the gangway was opened to the 
shore. 

During this time the Prince and the noblemen ac- 
companying him, as also the gentlemen of the suite, all 
of whom were in uniform, appeared standing on deck 
and exchanging remarks concerning the scene before 
them, and the yards of the Valorous, Styx, and Flying 
Fish were manned by crews eager for the landing and 
the signal when they were to cheer. The dome of 
Bonsecours Market, directly opposite the Pavilion, pre- 
sented as pretty a background as anything short of 
fine natural scenery, and the thousands of people that 
crowded the steamers lying in the vicinity, and a few 
that were plying on the water, lent animation to the 
picture. 

At twenty minutes past nine the Kingston was moor- 
ed to the wharf, and the royal party stepped without 
delay on to the strip of red carpet leading to the steps 
of the Pavilion, where led by the Mayor all took their 
stand, the Prince on the one uppermost with the Duke 
of Newcastle on his left and the Governor General on 
his right. 

The Valorous, Flying Fish, and Styx, all dressed 
with flags, now fired a royal salute, as also did the 
Volunteer Field Battery of Artillery from the wharf 
parallel to the landing, while the crews of the war- 
steamers cheered from the yards they covered and the 
multitude within view echoed the sound, amid the ring- 
ing of church bells, with that enthusiasm which every- 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 93 

where greeted the Prince during his tour in the New 
World. 

Our select circle on the wharf was not behind in the 
gladsome demonstration, for we waved our hats and 
raised our voices again and again in his praise and 
welcome. 

The Mayor, after conducting the royal guest thus 
far, took his place on the carpeted floor, and read the 
usual address in English, and afterwards a translation 
of the same into French. 

His Royal Highness then read the reply in English 
only. At the conclusion of this, the cheering was im- 
mense. When it had subsided, the Prince walked be- 
tween the Duke of Newcastle and the Governor General 
to his carriage, drawn by four horses, in waiting a short 
distance up the wharf. As he drove away the cheer- 
ing was renewed, and continued with more or less en- 
thusiasm all along the route to the exhibition building. 

The Prince arrived at the building at the appointed 
hour of eleven, and on alighting from his carriage 
passed through the horticultural tent to the reception 
room, where he remained only a few moments, prepar- 
atory to entering the great hall, and taking his place 
on the dais or throne prepared for him. He was 
greeted with loud cheers and clapping of hands, and 
by the young ladies of the orchestra singing " God 
save the Queen," to an organic accompaniment. The 
Prince stood in the centre of the official group while 
the anthem was being sung, and never was man more 
the observed of all observers. The anthem was suc- 
ceeded by the Governor General leaving the Prince's 
right, and taking his place at the foot of the throne, 
where he read an address to His Royal Highness, set- 
ting forth the nature and objects of the exhibition, and 
praying that he would be pleased to open and inau- 
gurate the same. 

To this the Prince then replied. No sooner was 
this done than I heard a voice saying, " Let us pray." 



94 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

It came from the mouth of the Anglican Bishop, who, 
clad in his robes, thereupon read a prayer, invoking 
God's blessing on the undertaking, the audience dur- 
ing its delivery listening without changing position. 
The royal party was now conducted over the building 
by the secretary of the exhibition. 

Returning to the dais. His Royal Highness formally 
declared the exhibition opened. Upon this the Ora- 
torio Society sang the " Hallelujah Chorus," with 
much spirit, at the conclusion of which the royal party 
retired by the door at which they entered, a farewell 
cheer accompanying them. 

From the exhibition building I proceeded to the 
Grand Trunk Railway station, at Point St. Charles, 
from which my ticket apprised me I had to leave by 
special train for the bridge at half-past twelve, to wit- 
ness the ceremony of its inauguration by His Royal 
Highness the Prince of Wales. 

I entered the special train, which soon afterwards 
moved away in the direction of the bridge, and stop- 
ped at the entrance to it, where all the ^ssengers 
alighted, in order to ascend tlie long wooden steps 
leading up to the top of the bridge, or gallery, as it 
was termed, where rows of seats were erected for the 
accommodation of those present, nearly half of whom 
were ladies. 

We all know what women will go through when 
they have an object of their own choice in view, and 
what fatigue they will happily endure under the name 
of pleasure. So it was not to be wondered at that 
the ladies here displayed their proverbial courage in 
overcoming all difficulties. 

When I reached the summit of the bridge, the sun 
was shining gloriously, and the tin roofs and spires 
and cupolas of the island city of Montreal, glittered 
like tlie wavelets of the river, in the midst of which, 
like an emerald set in diamonds, lay the green islet 
fronting the Custom-house. 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 95 

I never before saw Montreal to so niucli advantage, 
never before took in the appearance of the two-mile 
tin-roofed tubular bridge, stretching from shore to 
shore, with such nicety of view. 

On the entrance lintel of the stone parapet, above 
the roadway, I saw cut the following inscription : 

ERECTED, A.D. MDCCCLIX. 

ROBERT STEPHENSON AND ALEXANDER M. ROSS, 

ENGINEERS. 

One block of limestone now alone remained to be 
lowered into place, in order to formally complete the 
great practical work which has monopolized so large 
a share of public attention, and that block was now 
depending by a chain from tlie scaffolding over the 
grave in which it was to rest till disturbed by ruin. 

The top of the parapet in which the stone was to be 
placed, was set apart for the gentlemen of the press, 
and this was the best possible position for them. From 
this point I looked down on dark masses of men as- 
sembled in the cool shade of the trackway, and who 
had come by a train subsequent to the one mentioned, 
while on either hand, forming a beautiful vista, were 
long rows of bonnets, with a sprinkling of hats, denot- 
ing as many ladies and gentlemen. 

At twenty minutes to two, and while every one, to 
use a common expression, was on the tip-toe of expect- 
ation, the royal car arrived, drawn by a locomotive 
dressed with flags. The dark masses below formed 
into line on either side of the track, and there was a 
general cheer. The Prince jumped from the car on to 
the platform, and, accompanied by the Governor Gen- 
eral, the Duke of Newcastle, Earl St. Germains, Lord 
Lyons, Lord Mulgrave, the members of his suite, and a 
few others, ascended the stairs to another platform 
erected a little below the level of the base the stone 
was to occupy. The Prince was met with renewed 
cheers on reaching this elevation, and here an elegant 



96 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

silver trowel, on which was the following inscription, 
was handed to him by the contractor for the work : 
'' To commemorate the completion of the Victoria 
Bridge, by His Royal Highness, Albert, Prince of 
Wales, Montreal, 1860." 

His Royal Highness then stooped and spread the 
mortar which had been previously placed there, after 
whicli he returned the trowel to the presenter, who, 
having wiped it, restored it to its case. As soon as the 
stone, Avhich weighed ten tons, was lowered into place, 
the Prince gave it three gentle taps with the mallet. 
The ceremony was thus far completed, and the Prince 
descended the steps, and re-entered his car, in order 
to proceed into' the bridge, and hammer the last rivet 
into the centre tube. 

As soon as the rivet was driven in by His Royal 
Highness, he and his party returned to Point St. 
Charles, and attended the dejeuner, which was given in 
one of the car-shops of the railway company, deco- 
rated for the occasion. There was a gallery at the 
head of the room devoted to the use of the Prince and 
high officials accompanying him. 

After a short lapse of time, the Governor Gen- 
eral proposed the health of the Queen, which was re- 
ceived with hearty cheers. Prince Albert was next 
toasted, and afterwards " tlie Prince of Wales,'' the 
latter being more especially greeted with tremendous 
applause. 

A few minutes of silence only intervened before the 
Prince rose and proposed " The health of the Gover- 
nor General, prosperity to Canada, and success to the 
Grand Trunk Railway." 

He waved his glass to the cheering, and evidently 
entered into the feeling witli much warmth. The 
royal party left shortly after this, and no further 
speech-making took place. 

The illuminations in the evening were the finest 
that the Provinces have produced, and may be said to 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 97 

have been universal. The ships of war in port pre- 
sented a very fine spectacle, and after those the Place 
d'Armes wore, the most brilliant aspect. 



CHAPTER XIII. 

The Cricket-Ground— Indian Games and Dances— The Levee and the 
Citizens' Ball— The Prince Encircled by Ropes— The Concert- 
Cornwall— In the Rapids— Lachine— The Military Reyiew and 
Return— Ottawa, etc. 

On Monday morning when, at a few minutes before 
ten, I drove to the cricket-ground where the Indian 
games were to take place, in the presence of the 
Prince, I found an immense concourse of people gath- 
ered, in a state of excitement, in front of a small door 
or opening in a paling which surrounded the limited 
territory in question. 

" Keep back, keep back, you're killing these ladies," 
was the cry of a man clinging to the paling above the 
small doorway, and who kept alternately goading and 
soothing the crowd in their passage from purgatory to 
paradise. 

As I w^alked across the smooth turf towards the 
stand which had been erected on the town side of the 
inclosure for the accommodation of the Prince and 
party, I saw a number of figures, chiefly Indian, in 
tightly fitting red and white and blue and red gar- 
ments, standing here and there in picturesque groups. 
These were the players. Approaching nearer, I saw 
that the Indians wore feathers in their caps, and had 
their faces painted. 

At ten o'clock the Prince arrived, and took his place 
on the stand amid loud cheering. 



98 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

The first lacrosse game now commenced between 
sixty of the Algonquin tribe and an equal number of 
the Iroquois, and, after a spirited contest, was given in 
favor of the latter, in order to enable the Prince to 
witness the match between twenty-five Montreal gen- 
tlemen and as many Algonquins. Lacrosse is a game 
combining foot-ball and rackets, or raquets, as it 
used to be spelt. There is one ball in common, and 
every player has a racket or bat made of twigs. It 
is the object of the one side to keep the ball as much 
in one direction as possible, and strike into a space 
called the jail, and of tlie other to do exactly the re- 
verse. 

The first two games were won easily by the red 
men, but in the third tlie whites were victorious. 

Now commenced the war-dance, in which about 
twenty painted Indians, in very warlike garb, and 
fully armed for battle with tomahawks, scalping 
knives, and other tragic Aveapons, formed themselves 
into a ring with one of their number in the centre, 
who engaged himself in the occupation of beating a 
drum and singing. 

While dancing they uttered a harsh refrain, and 
most of them remained stooping with their hands rest- 
ing on their thighs during the monotony ; then yelling 
and changing their position for one exceedingly fierce, 
in which they brandished their knives in each other's 
faces, they assumed as many distortions of legs, arms, 
body, and fiice, as an Australian aborigine in the midst 
of a corrobberri. 

The war-dance was the most amusing feature of tlie 
whole performance, and the Prince laughed in evident 
enjoyment of savage antics, the squaws in front of 
two or three bark wigwams beneath, meanwhile eye- 
ing him as a being of whose position among the pale 
faces they would like to know more. 

A race between twenty of each tribe came next, and 
these ran from the centre of the field up to and through 



THE PRINCE OP WALES IN AMERICA. 99 

tne flags, then back again through the opposite flags 
to tlie starting point. The running was not as swift 
as I anticipated, and the race was won by an Iroquois. 

This was succeeded by a fourth game of lacrosse, in 
tlie midst of which and at eleven o'clock a shower fell, 
and His Royal Highness, left the grounds in the car- 
riage by Avliich he came, accompanied by the Governor 
General, the Duke of Newcastle, Lord Lyons, and his 
own suite. The standard was lowered on the flagstaff 
over the stand, and cheers followed the royal party 
along tlie moistened ranks. 

The levee was appointed to take place at noon, and 
at a few moments before that hour the Prince arrived, 
in uniform, under an escort of volunteer cavalry, and 
accompanied by all the noblemen and gentlemen who 
had attended him at the levee at Quebec. He was re- 
ceived by the Highland Company of Rifles, acting as 
the guard of lienor. 

The levee was held in the Advocates' Library, and 
about two thousand presentations took place. 

The next great event of the day was the citizens' 
ball. I went there at a few minutes before ten o'clock, 
and found myself among a throng of three or four 
thousand gathered in the largest circular ball-room I 
ever danced in. 

It is somewhat dry work giving the measurement of 
such a room on such an occasion, but I will, neverthe- 
less, descend from the poetry of the scene to the bare 
facts. I was in a circular room, the circumference of 
which was three hundred and seventy -five feet, and 
which had, consequently, a diameter of two hundred 
and fifteen feet, and a superficial space of thirty-two 
thousand ditto, with a gallery above, extending around 
the whole rotunda, where well-dressed beauty sat in 
pride, gazing on the festive scene. 

In the centre was the stand occupied by the band, 
and round this was the grand promenade. 

The Prince arrived at ten o'clock, up to winch time 



100 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

no dancing had taken place. Gas-burners circled the 
building in three rows, and produced a brilliant effect, 
for light is an important element in these grand gath- 
erings of the elite. The refreshment stalls were ar- 
ranged round the extreme circle, and here champagne 
on draught, and thick slices of cold corned beef, were 
to be obtained ; but no sherry, or port, or any drinks 
of a vinous or alcoholic nature, more man the said 
draught champagne and some questionable claret. 

The Prince entered the ball-rooM from his dressing- 
room in a secluded part of the gallery, and accompa- 
nied by his usual suite in uniform. There was a cheer, 
and " God save the Queen," was played by the band. 
The royal party was conducted to a box situated be- 
tween two red ropes, meant to act as barriers in pre- 
venting other than a select circle dancing in that vi- 
cinity. Everybody was crying out against these ropes, 
and it would have been the most popular act that His 
Royal Highness could have done to have gone beyond 
this local boundary, but, unfortunately, he danced there 
all the evening, and being shut up, had a crowd around 
him all the time, which crowd was as solid and hard 
to move as a wall. The noblemen and gentlemen of 
His Royal Highness' suite were, therefore, unable to 
move about and say " How d'you ?" to their friends 
and acquaintances, and two of them went to sleep 
in their chairs, and remained so during the greater 
part of the evening. 

The only approach that has ever been made to such 
a ball-room, was by the Theatre Francais, at Paris, 
when boarded over immediately after the carnival, 
and used as a public salle ; but its inferior size places 
it far below the great ball-room of Montreal. Yet the 
ball at Montreal was all show and no comfort. 

The roof of the building was tastefully colored, but 
its supports or pillars were only parallelogramic lengths 
of timber, whitewashed and scantily wreathed with 
evergreens. 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 101 

The Prince remained till a few minutes past four 
o'clock, and received a general cheer as he left the 
room through the passage way formed for his depart- 
ure. 

The weather was fortunately fine when, on the next 
morning at eleven o'clock, the Prince drove from his 
residence to the Grand Trunk Railway station, where 
he and his suite took their places in the royal car and 
started for Cornwall. 

Cornwall is a new and by no means French-looking 
or French-.^peaking town, but pure Anglo-Saxon. It 
is situated about live miles from the boundary line 
between the United States and Canada, which runs 
through the village of St. Regis, inhabited chiefly by 
Indians, half of whom acknowledge themselves under 
the sway of Great Britain, Avhile the remainder lay 
claim to the protection of the United States. 

CoruAvall has among other things a conspicuous 
church and court-house, and is the chief township of 
the eastern district, and one of the most populous and 
best situated of the divisions of Upper Canada, it 
being bounded on two sides by the broad waters of 
the St. Lawrence and Ottawa respectively. A canal 
extends from this over a distance of twelve miles, 
parallel with the Long Sault Rapids, at the foot of 
which the town lies. 

Here the Prince and party on their arrival were 
received with much enthusiasm, and embarked on 
board the steamer Kingston, which had come up on 
the previous day in order to be in readiness for the 
trip down. 

The St. Lawrence a little below this point expands 
into a lake, and presents a fine sweep of prospect. As 
the steamer glided away, the royal party were assem- 
bled on deck, and there they remained during most 
of the passage. 

St. Regis Island, situated mid-channel, was the first 
object that was remarked upon, as the steamer sped 



102 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

onward towards the lake, with the royal standard 
floating from her topmast. The steamer on entering 
the lake passed between Squaw and Butternut Islands, 
with the lio^hthouse on Lancaster Shoal within easv 
view. 

Tlie steamer was now steered close past a floating 
lighthouse, and so on to Cherry Island light, with 
McGees' Point visible on the northern shore, and the 
Eapids of Coteau du Lac straight ahead. 

Coteau du Lac is a small village at the foot of Lake 
St. Francis, and twelve miles from the Cascades. Both 
by name and nature its French origin is distinctly 
traceable. 

On tlie right bank tlie shore now appeared studded 
with those little stone churches and comfortable farm- 
houses and neat farms so characteristic of the French 
Canadian Territory. 

The Coteau Rapids were run just below the village, 
and tlien came the Cedar Rapids, extending from the 
village of Cedars on the north shore to that of St. 
Timothe on the opposite one, both sides of the river 
being Canadian below Cornwall. 

A group of sixteen islands interrupted the navigation 
at the Coteau du Lac Rapids, the tirst of these latter 
being between Giron Island and the mainland ; the 
second between French Island and those of Maple and 
Thorn, and the third between Prisoner's and Broad 
Islands, after which the steamer shot into smooth water 
opposite Grand Island. 

This newly earned tranquillity, however, was of short 
duration ; for the steamer was soon darting from ledge 
to ledge through the hurrying waters of the Cedars, 
the village of that name lying on the north shore and 
Beauharnois on the south. Emerging from these 
rapids, the steamer was again at rest ; soon, however, 
to be again disturbed by the turbulent bed. of the Cas- 
cade Rapids, tumbling over a chain of bars. These 
are situated between Cascades Point and Buisson 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 103 

Point, where the St. Lawrence expands into Lake St. 
Louis, and the bright and rolling waters of the Ottawa 
mingle on the northern shore with those of the sister 
river. From this lovely scene the steamer now 
ploughed her way over the lake to the town of La- 
chine, on the north bank, and nearly opposite the In- 
dian village of Caughnawaga. 

Lachine is situated a short distance above the rapids 
of that name and nine miles from Montreal. But, al- 
though so near, the royal party preferred landing and 
returning to town by railway to descending these, the 
most swift and wild of all the rapids of the St. Law- 
rence ; and they accordingly disembarked. 

Lachine is the headquarters of the Hudson Bay 
Company in North America, and the residence of its 
Governor. A number of voyageurs were here assem- 
bled, and these manned tlieir boats in honor of the 
Prince, and clieered loudly. The royal party after- 
wards returned to town by railway, and at half-past 
ten arrived for the second time at the ball-room, 
where all the musical talent of the country had 
assembled in the cause of a musical festival. 

The room was crowded with a galaxy of beauty in 
full dress, more so even than on the previous evening. 
The first division was performed by the Montreal 
Oratorio Society. This was followed by a recess of 
more than an hour. Then a solo was executed by a 
gentleman member of the Montreal Musical Union, 
which consisted of over two hundred and fifty per- 
formers, all of whom were assembled on the raised 
circular platform in the centre of the room. 

Soon after this the royal party arrived. 

At its close the grand cantata, composed in honor 
of the visit of the Prince, was performed by the two 
hundred and fifty referred to. Following this came 
the concert by tlie professional artistes. 

The wliole concluded near midnight with " God 
save the Queen.'' 



104 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

Lady Franklin was present and after His Koyal 
Highness had retired, the chairman of the Committee 
of Management, conducted her to the chair vacated by 
the Prince, upon which she was recognized by the 
audience, who rose and greeted her with several rounds 
of applause. 

The review on the next morning was a tolerable 
success. The companies and troops comprising the 
volunteer forces were assembled on the ground at 
Logan's farm soon after ten o'clock. At eleven the 
Prince arrived, when his standard was run up on the 
flagstaff there erected, the field battery meanwhile 
occupying a place on the extreme left, facing the flag- 
staff, and the first and second troops of cavalry oc- 
cupying a position on the hill, near and to the right 
of the flagstaff, with the light infantry formed to 
the right of the cavalry, the rifles on the left, and 
foot artillery companies on the right of the field bat- 
tery. 

The line being thus formed, the battery fired a royal 
salute, and as the Prince rode up to the place reserved 
for liim the brigade presented arms and tlie Prince's 
band played " God save th^ Queen." 

The Prince at once commenced an inspection of the 
line, commencing with the cavalry and riding down to 
the extreme end, on reaching which he turned and 
passed slowly up the rear. This finished, the Prince 
led back to the flagstaff and faced the line, which broke 
and marched past in quick time, the salutations of the 
ofiicers being returned by the Prince. The brigade 
marched back to the same ground, formed in quarter- 
distance column, and again marched by. Line was re- 
formed on tlie original ground, and the cavalry and 
battery retired to the rear of the cavalry supporting 
the battalion, whicli changed front obliquely to the 
right on the centre company of rifles. Here, at the 
double, two companies of rifles advanced and extended 
right and left in skirmishing order, after which they 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 105 

commenced firing, but with little effect, for the order 
to retire was given and the skirmisliers retreated in 
quick time, firing as they went to their supports. 

Line was once more deployed, and the companies 
commenced firing by platoons, the battery meanwhile 
loading, opened fire with two guns at either end of 
the line. Tliis mock cannonading was kept up for a 
time when the brigade cavalry advanced from the left 
and charged in a very spirited manner to clear the 
ground of the remnants of the enemy. 

Soon after this the square deployed and formed in 
line, and, advancing in slow time, presented arms. 
The royal party then left the grounds. 

Afterwards the Prince and suite drove to Lachine, 
where they arrived about three o'clock. 

The royal party embarked in four of the Valorous' 
boats and were rowed across to the island of Dorval, 
the residence of Sir George Simpson. 

When about mid-channel they were met by ten ca- 
noes, each manned by a dozen Indians, who formed a 
double line, between which the man-of-war boats pass- 
ed, to the music of an Indian salute from those on 
board the canoes. 

His Royal Highness only remained about half an 
hour at the house before he went on board an Indian 
canoe, to be paddled round the island to the before 
mentioned village of Caughnawaga, and back to La- 
chine. This was done to the evident pleasure of En- 
gland's eldest son, after which he returned to town by 
steamer down the Lachine Rapids. 

It was a great' day for the good folks of the Eastern 
townships St. Hyacinthe and Sherbrooke, when on 
Thursday morning the Prince made his appearance 
among them. 

The royal party left Montreal at ten, and reached 
tlie former place after an hour's ride by railway, the 
intermediate stations being decorated with spruce, 
mottoes, and words of welcome. 



106 EOYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

A platform liad been erected for the occasion, on to 
which the Prince stepped from tlie car amid the cheers 
of nearly the wliole population. He was received by 
the Mayor and Council, and the members of tlie Local 
Reception Committee. Carriages being in attendance, 
he drove to the College Building tlirough streets 
abounding in triumphal arches, and rich in minor dec- 
orations. Here three addresses were presented to 
him, after which he ascended to the roof of the build- 
ing, and had a fine view of the surro'anding scenery, 
which is of extreme beauty. On his return to the sta- 
tion the cheers were renewed with undiminished en- 
thusiasm. At noon he reached Sherbrooke, and re- 
ceived and replied to an address from the Mayor, after 
which he drove to the residence of Mr. Gait under a 
series of arches, and amid the ringing of church bells, 
and the cheers of thousands, many of the fair among 
whom threw bouquets into his carriage. The house 
stood on the smnmit of a hill commanding a pleasing 
view of the St. Francis River winding through a val- 
ley beneath, and was tastefully decorated with spruce, 
flowers, and mottoes. The ground in front was filled 
with ladies, so that the scene by no means lacked ani- 
mation. 

Immediately after entering. His Royal Highness 
held an informal levee in his traveling costume, there 
being no restrictions as to dress on the part of those 
presented. 

At the conclusion of this ceremony a touching inci- 
dent occurred, which speaks well for the good feel- 
ing of the Prince. A gentleman who had been long 
residing here, was, in his youth, signal midshipman 
on Nelson's flag-ship, the Victory, at the memorable 
battle of Trafalgar, and afterwards at the battle of 
Copenhagen, in both of which actions he earned med- 
als, but unluckily was officer of the watch on board 
the sloop of war Carieux, when, during the block- 
ade of Guadaloupe in 1809, she struck on a rock and 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. lOT 

was wrecked. This resulted in his being dismissed 
the service. 

His Royal Highness, on being told of these circum- 
stances, at once, in tlie exercise of his prerogative, and 
with mucli show of kindly warmth, restored him to the 
position in the Royal Navy which he had lost. The 
graceful manner in Avhich this was signified, was only 
second to the generosity of the act itself. 

Lunch followed, during which repast the Prince dis- 
played his usual cordiality, and when he returned to 
the i-ailway car, the demonstrations on all sides were 
as unbounded as human nature was capable of. 

In tiic evening the Prince and suite were present 
by invitation, at a people's ball in the great room at 
Montreal, but did not dance. Shooting-coats and bon- 
nets were plentifully displayed by the great unwashed, 
who honored the event with their presence. 

Early on the next morning, Friday, the royal party- 
departed by steamer for Ottawa. 

It was a matter of general regret there that the 
weather was so wet and the day so advanced when 
His Royal Highness landed that evening, for rain and 
darkness combined tended very much to lessen the 
eifect of both the aquatic and street processions, al- 
though the former was still a sight rare in its pictur- 
esque beauty. The hundred and more bark canoes 
manned by six times as many men all in bright red, or 
blue shirt:^, brimmed hats, and white trowsers, and 
every canoe looking as new and showy as the men's 
shirts, and with a flag at the bow and another at the 
stern, while the six hiindred odd paddles feathered 
with spray played in unison together, with the royal 
steamer advancing in the centre of this flotilla, and 
several other excursion steamers following at a re- 
spectful distance, made up a picture of unrivaled in- 
terest. 

There was a triumphal arch under which royalty 
stepped from the steamer tq the shore, greeted with 



108 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

the tlirilling cheers of thousands gathered like pelicans 
and penguins — men and Avomen — on tlie edge of the 
cliffs overlooking the river, and near the landing place 
and wherever else a view of the fleet could be obtain- 
ed from the Falls of the Chaudiere, to the promontory 
at Rockliffe. 

The Mayor was at the landing place in his robes, 
surrounded by the other municipal dignitaries, and de- 
livered tlie usual address, which was as promptly re- 
plied to, after which the procession groped its way to 
the royal quarters. 

At a few minutes before eleven on Saturday morn- 
ing, I drove through streets as muddy as those of 
Melbourne at the time of the gold mania, to witness 
the laying of the corner-stone of the public buildings. 
On reaching the gates leading to the works, in front 
of which, and down the street as far as the Victoria 
Hotel, or Prince's quarters, an immense concourse of 
people had assembled. It was quite an adventure 
passing up the inner roadway to the desired spot, so 
crowded was it with men, women, and children, and 
so encumbered with all sorts of lumber. 

Being occasionally a little wiser than my neighbors, 
I succeeded in taking my stand among the members 
of the Legislature in the appointed place, my ticket- 
being the same as their own, and so had a full view 
of the interesting ceremony. 

His Royal Highness, preceded by his equerries, and 
attended by the members of his suite, arrived in open 
carriages and full uniform at eleven, and took their 
places, together with the Canadian Ministers, on the 
canopied platform in the northeast angle of the build- 
ing, and fronting the white marble block which was 
to become the great corner-stone. 

The Prince stood in the centre of the dais, with the 
Governor General on his right, and the Duke of New- 
castle on his left. The Legislature occupied the front 
seats on either side of the platform, and in their rear 



THE PRINCE OP WALES IN AMERICA. 109 

were ampbitlieatric stands, crowded with ladies and 
gentlemen. Behind tlie block, which was suspended 
from a derrick by a rope intertwined with red cord, 
and a pulley which was gilded, stood the architects, 
the contractors, the Mayor, and members of the City 
Council, together with other gentlemen locally con- 
nected with the works. One of these now commenced 
laying mortar on the base it was to rest on, after 
which, while the block swung, from the derrick pre- 
paratory to the lowering, so as to be highly suggest- 
ive of a coffin, the chaplain of the Legislature ad- 
vanced, and heightened the funereal effect by reading 
a short prayer, concluding with that of our Lord. 
The Prince then descended from the dais, and receiv- 
ing a chastely worked silver trowel, stooped and 
spread the mortar over the foundation, immediately 
following which the block was lowered to its grave. 
The royal hand gave it three taps with the mallet ; 
the Governor General came forward, and placing his 
hand on it said, "Your Royal Highness, the stone is 
now laid ;" there was a glorious cheer, repeated again 
and again, from the assembled multitude, whose un- 
covered heads were hot in the sun, and the ceremony, 
was oTcr. 

The gentlemen connected with the works were then 
introduced to the Prince, after which the royal party 
inspected the models, and walked round as far as the 
cliff overlooking the river, making the best progress 
they could over building materials, and, having there 
enjoyed the view, returned to the hotel which closely 
adjoined, where at noon a levee was held, the attend- 
ance being very full. 

A drive and a public dejeuner followed, after which 
His Royal Highness descended on a crib of wood the 
timber slide on the right side of the Chaudiere Falls. 
He then sailed down the river in a six-oared boat to 
witness some canoe races, which were conducted with 
spirit. 



110 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

In the eveninf^ the town was illuminated. 

The Prince attended the English church on the Sun- 
day, and at ei^^ht on the next morning a salute from 
the Ottawa field-battery proclaimed his departure. 



CHAPTER XIY. 

Enthusiasm and Warmth of the People— Torch-light and Firemen's 
Processions, and Departure of the Prince — The Scenery among 
the Thousand Lsles— The Trip from Brockville — Arrival at Kings- 
ton — the Preparations for the Reception — The Disappointment of 
the Multitude, and the Obstinacy of the Orangemen, etc. 

A PLEASANT country drive brought His Royal High- 
ness to the village of Aylmer, where a steamer was 
in waiting to convey him up the river Ottawa, on his 
way to Brockville, and a large crowd had gathered 
from the neighboring townships, and triumphal arches 
spanned the roads. 

It was pleasing to see the enthusiasm alike mani- 
fested by men, women, and children, to watch the 
flutter of pocket-handkerchiefs, and the waving of hats 
in the bright, warm sunshine. Here was another of 
those popular outbursts of genuine good-feeling which 
met Albert Edward throughout his travels in the 
New World. Decrepit age and elastic boyhood, young 
maidens and grave matrons, vied witJi each other in 
the chorus of welcome to England's eldest son, who ac- 
knowledged the flattering homage in a smiling manner 
which won all hearts. 

He embarked without delay, and the steamer started 
immediately for Chats' Portage, where a fleet of canoes, 
furnished by the lumbermen of the district, were in 
waiting to convey him to Arnprior, The sceuery along 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. Ill 

this part of tlie Ottawa was veiw fine, and called forth 
expressions of admiration from all. 

Tlie Prince takes to traveling with the zeal of an 
old tourist ; so that he enjoyed tlie trip exceedingly, 
and such enjoyment was contagious, for he puts all 
around him in good spirits. 

Ai-nprior was next reached, and here arches and 
garlands, and word* of welcome again appeared in 
ornamental array ; and cheers arose in a prodigal- 
ity of joy which touched the heart of him for whom 
they were meant. The scene at Aylmer was re-enact- 
ed, and the beautiful weather enhanced the festive 
glory of the scene. 

A line of carriages was here drawn up to convey 
the royal party to Almonte, distant eighteen miles. 
Here and there along the road, spruce and pine trees 
were planted, and wreaths of flowers hung out, while 
in several instances rustic belles, who had long been 
waiting in anxious expectation of the royal presence, 
threw bouquets into one or the other of the carriages, 
for they were uncertain as to which was the Prince's 
when they saw all in plain dress, and many let the 
Prince go by under the delusion that he had yet to 
come. 

At Almonte there was another warm and pictur- 
esque demonstration, which gladdened the souls of all 
who either participated in or witnessed it. Grave 
men relaxed their features, and joined in the gay and 
brilliant scene of rejoicing. "Lo, England's heir has 
come ! Welcome, welcome !" was one of the public 
inscriptions on an archway that spanned the road at 
the railway station. Here the Prince entered the 
royal car of the Grand Trunk Railway, and receded 
from the view in the midst of the same waving of hats, 
the same fluttering of handkerchiefs, the same ringing 
cheers of a loyal people, as before — of a people who 
felt that this visit was another tie that bound them to 
the parent land. 



112 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

At twenty minutes to eight the train reached Brock- 
ville, when the greatest crowd that Brockville ever 
gathered was seen at the railway station. 

On stepping on to the platform the cheering pre- 
vented anything else being heard for several minutes ; 
but when this burst of joy and welcome had subsided, 
the Mayor of the town, accompanied by several mem- 
bers of the Common Council, advanced and read an 
address, to wliich His Royal Higlmess replied. 

The Prince was conducted to his carriage, in which 
he took liis seat beside the Governor General, with 
His Grace the Duke of Newcastle on the opposite seat. 
A torch-light procession of the firemen and others was 
in waiting, and a general illumination had the effect, 
in the midst of the triumphal arches, and other ever- 
green and floral decorations, of lending a species of 
fairy enchantment to the scene, which was one of the 
prettiest I have ever seen — far more so than that of 
the great Japanese ball. The flaring torches in the 
background, the exploding rockets high above, the 
brilliant transparencies spanning the streets, the Chi- 
nese lanterns swinging from roofs and windows and 
arches, the distant bonfires, the ringing church bells 
and the ringing cheers, combined to make a spectacle 
as brilliant as it was exciting. Tlie procession then 
moved forward towards the steamer Kingston, at the 
wharf — the firemen and other torcli-bearers following 
in the rear, and while saluted with fire-works, that 
lent a terribly lurid aspect to the whole, at every point 
of their progress. 

The display was highly creditable to the townspeo- 
ple, many of whom, however, went home very much 
disappointed at having been unable to catch a glimpse 
of the royal visitor. 

On the next morning the Prince appeared on the 
steamer's deck at nine o'clock, and, being recognized 
by those* ashore, there was great cheering. The 
steamer, being anchored a short distance midstream. 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 113 

was surrounded by numerous hoats filled with those 
eager to see him. At a quarter to eleven he gratified 
a general wish by coming ashore in a small boat, and 
driving tlirough the principal streets of the town. All 
the resources "of the place were taxed to provide car- 
riages for the party, and with tolerable success, al- 
though there was a great want of uniformity in the 
size, color, and shape of the vehicles and horses en- 
listed in the service. The Prince took his place in an 
open carriage by the side of the Governor General, 
while the Duke of Newcastle and Earl St. Germains 
sat opposite. Lord Lyons and the suite followed in 
separate carriages. The streets were very dusty, ow- 
ing partly to the crowd that ran alongside and before 
and behind the Pi'ince's carriage, which was guarded by 
two policemen, one at either side, armed with batons. 
The royal party had to keep their eyes half sliut for a 
while, but afterwards the clouds diminished both in 
volume and density. Tlie drive lasted about half an 
hour. 

At twenty minutes past twelve the Kingston steamed 
away, and in a few minutes afterwards was pursuing 
her course among the Thousand Islands. 

Tiie weather was fortunately warm and sunny, and 
the granite islands were seen to great advantage. 
Here nature appeared to have fancifully prepared a 
grand proscenium to feast the traveler's eye, for noth- 
ing could have exceeded in singularity the scene that 
presented itself. The mighty St. Lawrence — the Iro- 
quois of the red man — here, in ages long elapsed, urged 
its vexed waters, before pent up in the vast inland ba- 
sin of North America, against that portion of the 
primitive barrier which visibly extends from the gran- 
ite mountains of the East over to the dividing ridge 
between the wild regions of Hudson Bay and the tribu- 
tary waters of the Ottawa and the St. Lawrence ; and 
here, by some tremendous effort which has evidently 
shaken the whole country from Kingston, at the east- 



114 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

ern extremity of Lake Ontario, to the other side of the 
region through which the granite ridge pursues its 
northwesterly course, the river has at one time rushed 
over a sheet of cascades and rapids miles in breadth, 
but which have long disappeared under the wearing 
influence of time. Island succeeded island, group suc- 
ceeded group, till the eye almost weai'ied of the suc- 
cession. Most of these were beautifully wooded, and 
many of them so low and flat as to suggest to the mind 
the tranquil prospect of an Italian lagoon. Others 
again were split and rent into a variety of fantastic 
forms, forming views of peculiar wildness. A turn of 
the channel disclosed a new labyrinth, while we passed 
under a dark wall of rock, coated with moss and li- 
chens that had likely flourished there for generations, 
and from whose bare and rugged top the hoary fir 
lifted its sombre head. Further on a lighthouse stood 
perched on a rock, and further still another. All was 
still and lonely — the cerulean vault above, the tran- 
quil tide below, the sunshine over all. Was the 
poetry of the scene felt by that fair young man gaz- 
ing so calmly, so thoughtfully, upon it from the deck of 
that steamer over which the rich tints of a Prince of 
Wales standard flaunted in the sun ? If I were a 
novelist I should say " Yes." 

Then another fairy picture presented itself in groves, 
growing, as it were, out of the water, and seeming to 
bar our further progress, till suddenly the sylvan cur- 
tain was withdrawn, and the eye wandered over a 
wide sweep of water dotted here and there with a few 
small rocks, and bounded by the endless forest of the 
mainland. Towns and villages were meanwhile passed 
on either shore, and once a lonely fisherman was seen 
practicing his gentle art in a small row-boat. 

The islands extended the whole way from Brock- 
ville to Kingston, but the most compact cluster was 
seen in front of Alexandria Bay. Here the view was 
exquisite. A wide expanse of river reposed mirror- 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 115 

like beneath the ricli autumnal sky, and this sheet of 
water reflected the forms of an assemblage of islets of 
the most picturesque, diversified, and inviting aspect ; 
here a naked crag, there a majestic bouquet, yonder a 
clump of trees or a perfect island supporting a solitary 
stem. Such happy confusion, such an indiscriminate 
sprinkling of all shapes and sizes and varieties of vege- 
tation was unique in the extreme. 

As we neared Kingston, after leaving Brockville, 
the channel by which we advanced and which was 
formed by Long Island, on the borders of which were 
several islets, and by the mainland, Pittsburg and 
Kingston, gradually widened. These were well 
wooded, and the larger one disclosed several neat 
farms. 

Further on appeared the strong fortification crown- 
ing tlie promontory of Point Henry, about a liundred 
feet above the level of the lake, for here Ontario and 
the St. Lawrence meet. This commanded a narrow 
entrance between Cedar Island and Hamilton Cove ; 
and here, on a verdant slope, fronting the picturesque 
rocks of Cedar Island and commanding a beautiful 
view of the opening of the lake, stood the Garrison 
Hospital, built of dark blue stone, with a tin roof and 
veranda in front. 

Advancing beyond, a prospect still finer unfolded 
itself to the delighted eye. The opening of the lake 
was observable in the distance, and the town of Kings- 
ton began to show itself on the right. Away we 
went past Navy Bay and Point Frederick, between 
which, during the American war, British frigates used 
to lie in waiting. Ships, powder magazines, forts, and 
batteries, told the tale of the past. A dangerous 
shoal, running off from Point Frederick, obliged us to 
make a large curve before entering the harboi* ; but 
this afforded a fine opportunity for observing the 
scenery, including the expanse of Ontario, the broad 
current between Long Island and the town, the fine 



116 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

estuary of the St. Lawrence, across which, over a dis- 
tance of eighteen hundred feet in length, a wooden 
bridge extends ; the houses, and churclies, and market- 
place of the town rising above each other on a gentle 
declivity, and spreading two miles or more along the 
margin of the lake, the wharfs and shipping, and the 
distant forest on either side. 

Kingston was one of the first settlements of the 
French missionaries on the great fresh-water seas of 
the New World. It was then called by its Indian 
name, Cataraqui, and was strengthened with a large 
fort, erected by order of tlie Governor General of 
Canada. 

And now we were near tlie wliarf where His Royal 
Highness was appointed to land, according to the 
original arrangement, but which consummation had 
been considered doubtful since the departure from 
Brock ville, for it was there communicated by telegraph 
that the Orangemen were determined to take part in 
the procession, arrayed in all the trappings of their 
Order, and it had been signified that His Royal High- 
ness would not take part in such a procession, for the 
reason that it was offensive to the Roman Catholic 
body, which had protested against it. 

Immediately upon arrival the Governor General 
sent to the Mayor, asking the question whether or not 
the Orangemen intended to forego joining the proces- 
sion in their robes, with the attendant banners. The 
answer was in the negative. The Governor General 
— acting likely under higher authority — then intimated 
that if they did not agree to dispense with their party 
demonstration within an hour the Prince would re- 
main on board the steamer. The hour elapsed, the 
Orangemen were firm in their decision to hold out, 
and the Prince, as a consequence, did not land. The 
procession, which had been formed at great length, in- 
cluding all the public officers and clergy, and the vol- 
unteer cavalry of Kingston, was, therefore, left to dis- 



THE PRINCE OP WALES IN AMERICA. - 117 

perse in the gray twilight. People, under the com- 
bined influence of excitement and disappointment, now 
stared at each otlier in blank wonder at the unfortu- 
nate turn of events, and after that began to speculate 
concerning the ultimate result. 

The Prince slept on board the steamer that night, 
and the town was illuminated, although not as gener- 
ally as if His Royal Highness had been ashore, ac- 
cording to original expectation. Thousands of visitors 
crowded the streets and hotels, unable to obtain beds. 

On the following morning the Mayor and others 
went on board the royal steamer, in the endeavor to 
arrange matters so as to enable His Royal Highness 
to go ashore — the Orange party, meanwhile, parading 
the streets in full party costume, and forming a long 
procession. But the result was that 'such, under the 
attendant circumstances, was declined, His Royal High- 
ness proposing to receive addresses on board the 
steamer instead. Thus the first shadow had fallen 
across the New World path of the future King of 
England, affording another evidence that there is no 
pleasure without an alloy of pain, no event in human 
history but is marred by some element of discord, 
whether individual or national. It was, therefore, 
hardly to be expected that the psean of welcome would 
not be marred by some factional croaking, or that the 
cloven foot of party prejudice would not intrude among 
the crowd. 

The following letter will explain the cause of the 
unfortunate difficulty : 

Montreal, August 30, 1860. 
My Dear Sir Edmund, — I am informed that it is the 
intention of the Orangemen of Toronto to erect an 
arch on the line of route which it is desired by the 
citizens that the Prince of Wales shall take on Friday 
next, and to decorate it with the insignia of their 
association. I am also told that they mean to ap- 



118 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

pear in the procession similarly decorated with party 
badges. 

It is obvious that a display of this nature on such an 
occasion is likely to lead to religious feud and breach 
of the peace, and it is my duty to prevent, as far as I 
am able, the exposure of the Prince to supposed par- 
ticipation in a scene so much to be deprecated and so 
alien to the spirit in which he visits Canada. 

I trust you may be able to persuade tliose who are 
concerned in these preparations to abandon their in- 
tentions ; but that there may be no mistake, I hope 
you will inform them that, in the event of such an 
arch being erected, T shall advise the Prince to refuse 
to pass under it, and enter the town by another street ; 
and further, if any Orange demonstration, or any other 
demonstration of a party character is persisted in, I 
shall advise the Prince to abandon his visit to the 
town altogether. 

I have heard, but with less certainty, that a similar 
demonstration is contemplated at Kingston. I need 
not say that my remarks apply equally to that or any 
other town. I am, etc. Newcastle. 

To the Right Hon. Sir E. W. Head. 

The Kingston left the harbor at three on the next 
afternoon, the occasion being distinguished by a royal 
salute, fired from the Market Battery by the volunteer 
artillery company of the town. There were not many 
assembled at the water-side at the time, and the cheers 
were of a less enthusiastic character than those given 
on his departure from any other place visited. 

The Orangemen remained in procession in the street 
parallel witli the water-side up to this time, although 
tlieir numbers were fewer by one half than on the pre- 
vious day, many having been compelled to return to 
their homes in tlie country, in consequence of the ap- 
proaching harvest. 

Immediately after the last shots from the battery 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 119 

had died away, an indignation meeting was held by 
the citizens generally, who, I may remark, entertained 
a strong sympathy for the Orange party. I am sorry 
to say that the chief speaker took anything but an 
nnbig-oted and impartial view of the relations of one 
section of the community to another. He dragged 
down the religious faith of a people from the lofty 
standard of individual responsibility and moral in- 
fluence to do battle in political and party contests. 
He and others were evidently disposed to revive the 
rancor and religious hate which long ago cast a stain 
upon the people of Canada. Historical recollections 
were revived, and the concourse was told how the 
Orangemen were the representatives of those who 
fought side by side with the illustrious William, and 
bled with him in the cause of a common religion and 
a common liberty. That banner they carried to-day 
had floated in triumph over the w"alls of Derry, and 
led the way when the conquerors of the Boyne waded 
to the neck to oppose their foes. And yet they were 
thus ignored. They deserved better. Was it right 
for the Roman Catholics in Lower Canada to assemble 
all their bishops from Sandwich to Gaspe to meet His 
Royal Highness on his first landing at Quebec, to in- 
duce him to visit their colleges and nunneries, and 
when the Church of England was hardly represented 
to allow these to gather and pass before him in all the 
pageantry of feudal days, and then, after such a rec- 
ognition of the religion of the people in that section, 
altogether refuse similar privileges to the representa- 
tives of Protestantism in Upper Canada? 

Then followed some rather strong language, in 
which the names of the Governor General^ and the 
members for the town and county were received with 
loud groans. 

A still loftier personage interested in colonial affairs 
also came in for a slight share of the unpopularity 
caused by this party feeling. 



120 ROYALTY m THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

Thus, it will be seen, the worst consequences arose 
from the stubborn determination of the body of Orange- 
men to parade the insignia of their order to the an- 
noyance of the Roman Catholic portion of the com- 
munity, and that, notwithstanding an official intimation 
that such a display was contrary to the wishes of the 
highest authorities of the crown, as well as being sub- 
versive of good order. A greater insult could hardly 
have been offered to the Prince and crown than was 
brought about by this fanatical adherence to party 
creed and party resolves. "You don't respect the 
Prince," I heard one man say to one of the gentlemen 
in red and yellow. " Yes, we do ; but we respect 
Protestantism more.'' This is laying to their souls 
the flattering unction that they are something more 
than what they are. Protestantism, it is to be hoped, 
is totally independent of Orangeism. 



CHAPTER XY. 

The Landing at Toronto— Fifty Thousand Spectators— Four Thou- 
sand Children in Chorus — The Procession — Decorations on the 
Route — An Orange Arch — The Royal Party Annoyed — The Mayor 
in Hot Water — Illuminations — Addresses— The Prince Playing at 
Rackets— Reception at Osgoode Hall — The Prince Enrolled as 
a Barrister — The Ball — Beautiful Appearance of the Ball-room — 
Another Orange Outrage— Departure for Colliogwood, etc., etc. 

The Orange demonstration so unwisely persisted in, 
which prevented the landing of the Prince at Kings- 
ton, operated with an equally unfortunate result at 
his next place of call, Belleville, for the Orangemen, 
who had paraded themselves in that town while the 
royal steamer remained in harbor, left by railway, to 



THE PRIXCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 121 

the number of about two buudred, at four o'clock on the 
morning following her departure, for the same destina- 
tion. No sooner did they arrive at Belleville, at six, 
than they formed in procession, arrayed in scarf and 
badge, and marshaled by a man in harlequin costume, 
with their band playing party tunes as the vanguard. 

By the cheers that met them here and there, as they 
passed along, it was evident that popular feeling was 
not opposed to them, although popular ignorance may 
have had a good deal to do with that. They took up 
their quarters at a hotel in the town, out of one of the 
windows of which they hung their flag. Their pres- 
ence, of course, created much excitement among the 
populace, half of whom appeared to be in favor of the 
Orangemen holding out, and the other half of them 
giving in ; but the wearers of the red and yellow were 
firm to their motto of " No surrender." 

Soon after nine o'clock the Mayor went on board the 
Kingston, to acquaint the Duke of Newcastle with the 
resolution of the Orangemen to join in the procession 
if the Prince landed, as also to allow their party-col- 
ored arch, erected in one of the streets, to remain 
standing. 

After his return from this interview, the Mayor 
mounted a platform and addressed the people. He 
said that he had seen the Duke, and heard that the 
Prince greatly regretted that he should not have an 
opportunity of seeing their town, more especially as 
they had gone to so much trouble and expense in their 
decorations. 

At a quarter before ten the Kingston left the har- 
bor on her way to Cobourg. The gloom occasioned 
by this event was oppressive ; the triumphal arches 
had been erected in vain, and the loyal inhabitants 
were overcome with disappointment. The Orange- 
men returned to Kingston without disturbance, and I 
proceeded on to Cobourg, where I found everybody 
on the tip-toe of expectation. Triumphal arches, 

6 



122 EOYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

transparencies, and other devices were abundant ; vol- 
unteer cavalry patrolled the streets ; stands were built 
to accommodate sight-seers ; the Town Hall had a 
beautiful platform and canopy in front, and was intern- 
ally beautifully decorated ; and all promised well, 
for the Orangemen of the place had agreed not to 
parade the insignia of their party. 

Darkness succeeded daylight, and still no Prince 
came ; but shortly before ten the royal steamer ar- 
rived, and was saluted by the Kingston Volunteer Ar- 
tillery. It was then announced that His Royal High- 
ness would land at ten, attend the citizens' ball, and 
sleep ashore at the house of Mr. Smith, the Postmaster 
General. Accordingly, soon after ten the landing 
took place, and open carriages being in attendance for 
the illustrious visitor and others, he stepped into one 
in company with the Duke and Governor General, 
when, to his surprise, the horses were turned aside and 
the carriage was drawn to the Town Hall by a party of 
gentlemen of the place in full evening costume. The 
cheers along the line of route were vociferous, and must 
have gladdened the heart of him for whom they were 
intended. An address was presented to him by the 
Mayor and Corporation, to which he briefly replied. 

He then entered the ball room, which was tastefully 
arranged and by no means crowded, there not being 
more than two hundred people present. There, for 
the first time in America, he danced in plain evening 
dress, and walked about the room with his partner on 
his arm. 

He danced every dance till a quarter to four, and 
then drove home. 

On the following morning, at a few minutes before 
ten, he left the house for the railway station, escorted 
by a detachment of cavalry. He was in plain morn- 
ing dress, and from the house to the station was envel- 
oped in a cloud of dust. 

He traveled in a special train towards Peterboro, 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 123 

his departure being distinguished by the firing of a 
royal salute. On reaching Rice Lake, where the rail- 
way is laid across a bridge three miles long, the royal 
party embarked in a small steamer named the tana- 
bee, and sailed among a group of iir-covered islets. 
On the nortli side of the lake the Indians had erected 
an arch, and they had mustered there in canoes. Their 
chief presented a written address to His Royal High- 
ness, signed in Indian and English, after which lie ten- 
dered to the Prince a present of birch baskets full of 
Indian work, which was accepted. The train was then 
re-entered and moved on to Peterboro, where crowds 
had assembled at the station, and the municipal author- 
ities of the town and county presented addresses, which 
were replied to in the usual manner. 

The party did not remain long here before proceed- 
ing to Port Hope, where arches were plentiful and the 
inhabitants appeared to be in a state of exuberant 
joy. The Town Hall was fitted up for his accommo- 
dation, and thither he drove and received addresses 
from the town and county, to which he gave one reply. 
He then went up stairs to a public luncheon which had 
been provided, and at which the usual toasts of the 
Queen, Prince Consort, and Prince of Wales were pro- 
posed and responded to with genuine and tremendous 
cheers. The enthusiasm manifested at all points can- 
not Avell be described, and there was not a cloud to 
sully the brightness of this happy morning. 

Soon afterwards the party re-entered the cars and 
proceeded to Whitby, where a repetition of the same 
glorious scene occurred. Here three addresses were 
read, and as many replies made by His Royal High- 
ness, who, immediately following their delivery, drove 
off towards the wharf to embark on board the Kings- 
ton for Toronto. The people scampered after his car- 
riage in thousands, and were seemingly wild with de- 
light. 

From Whitby to Toronto he was escorted by a 



124 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

dozen or more excursion steamers, wliicli number in- 
creased as the royal steamer neared the city, xit a 
few minutes before seven the landing took place, in 
the presence of fifty thousand people collected on the 
whal-f and grand stand, and amid salutes from volun- 
teer artillery and elsewhere, and the huzzas of the 
mighty throng, that greeted him rapturously. X 
magnificent canopy had been erected on the spot, and 
here an address was delivered by the Mayor. To this 
he read his reply in his naturally clear and emphatic 
manner. 

The procession was then formed, and the grandest 
sight of the kind that had yet attended his progress in 
the New World, was exhibited. 

On entering the first street, that portion of the pro- 
cession within the inclosure passed under a magnifi- 
cent triumphal arch, after the Roman style. 

Arch succeeded arch after this as the procession 
passed along the streets, attended by cheers, without 
a single pause. 

On coming to the Orange arch, supposed to be in 
shape an exact imitation of the memorable gate of 
Derry, with a transparency on the pediment represent- 
ing King William the Third mounted on a white horse, 
in tlie act of crossing the Boyne, the Prince and the 
Duke of Newcastle eyed it with unpleasant surprise. 
" Why, they've King William there," was the remark 
of one of them. The Mayor had assured the Duke 
that there was nothing of a party character about it ; 
and here his statement was ocularly disproved. 

Early on the following morning the Duke wrote to 
the Mayor on the subject, but this did not result in the 
removal of the obnoxious picture, for, to the Duke's 
surprise, it was alleged to be an equestrian drawing 
of the Prince of Wales, in the attitude in which King 
William is commonly represented. This, however, 
did not satisfy the Duke, who reproached the Mayor 
for a want of candor. 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 125 

After a long drive by a circuitous route, the royal 
party reached Government House, which they entered 
amid a final outburst of cheers. The tens of thousands 
then wandered to and fro about the streets, looking at 
the illuminations. These were botli very numerous 
and very fine, Osgoode Hall being a beautiful constel- 
lation, and many of the public and private buildings 
were gorgeously illuminated. 

On Saturday morning the levee was held in the re- 
ception room of Government House, commencing at 
eleven o'clock, and ending at two. Thirteen addresses 
were here presented, but to only four of these did His 
Royal Highness reply. After luncheon the Prince, 
accompanied by the Governor General's aid-de-canip 
and one or two others, drove in a city cab to a public 
racket-court, where he threw off his coat and engaged 
in the fashionable game of rackets with much zest. It 
was soon rumored in the immediate neighborhood, and 
some young men procured a ladder reaching to the 
glass roof of the building, the doors of which were 
meanwhile closed to the general public. There, as the 
cobwebs partially screened the players from their view, 
they broke the windows, and the debris falling in had 
the effect of shortening the stay of His Royal High- 
ness, who returned to the cab in waiting, and drove 
back to his residence, in front of which, during the 
afternoon and evening, a floating cloud of sight-seers 
congregated in the hope of catching a glimpse of the 
royal visitor. At twenty minutes past nine he left 
with the Governor General, the Duke of Newcastle, 
and Earl St. Germains, in a closed carriage, to attend 
the ball, or reception, as it was called, at Osgoode 
Hall, followed by the other members of the suite in 
separate carriages. 

On his arrival at the building, which includes the 
most chastely ornamented and magnificent law courts, 
not only in America, but the whole world, St. George's 
Hall, Liverpool, perhaps, excepted, he was received by 



126 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD; OR, 

tlie Judges in their robes, and conducted tlirouo^h the 
corridor of white Caen stone to the central atrium, 
where he took his stand for a few moments on the low 
dais prepared for him. The dancing, which had been 
going forward for about half an hour previously, ceased, 
and there was a general cheer, followed by " God save 
the Queen," from the band of the Royal Canadian 
Rifles. This concluded, the Treasurer of the Law 
Society advanced, bowed, and read an address to His 
Royal Highness, which was replied to. 

Dancing was now recommenced, but, owing to their 
being only one band, the Prince's set (the only one 
formed) was soon environed by a wall of crinoline, 
which hardly allowed room enough for the dancers. 
After the second dance, however, the throng, number- 
ing about eight hundred, dispersed into the hall, cor- 
ridors, and other rooms. Soon after this another band 
commenced playing in the gallery above the central 
hall, and here the votaries of Terpsichore betook 
themselves in considerable numbers. Later still, His 
Royal Highness proceeded there, and this had the ef- 
fect of making it the most crowded part of the build- 
ing, which latter looked more like courts of the Al- 
hambra in days of yore than law courts. The wdiole 
was lighted on the principle adopted by the British 
Houses of Parliament, the inner roofing being of stain- 
ed glass, behind which were gas jets that poured their 
lustre in mellow tints upon the festive scene below, 
illuminating the elaborately carved stone pillars sup- 
porting the galleries and roof, and contrasting with 
the darker shades of the tesselated pavement. It was 
gorgeous and unique, and, save an occasional display 
of choice flowers arranged in the vestibule and main 
hall, there was little or no attempt at any other orna- 
ment. 

The gravity of the law was laid aside, mirth reigned 
supreme, and consulting chambers and retiring rooms, 
instead of being filled with papers and grave men, in 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 127 

liorse-hair wigs and bombazine gowns, poring over old 
parchments, were turned upside down with crinoline, 
shawls, looking-glasses, and the little odds and ends 
of female apparel. 

At a few minutes past eleven His Royal Highness 
conducted Mrs. Cameron, the wife of the Treasurer, to 
supper, wliich was served in the Practice Court in the 
west wing, and was of a very recherche character. 
Here the toasts of the Queen, Prince Consort, and 
Prince of Wales, were proposed and responded to 
with the highest enthusiasm. Dancing was afterwards 
resumed, and continued till five minutes past twelve, 
His Royal Highness having taken part in every dance 
during his stay. 

On the next morning (Sunday) he drove to church, 
without passing under the Orange arch. This aroused 
the indignation of a few of the bigoted followers of 
King William, and during divine service they pro- 
ceeded to their lodges and procured five of the ortho- 
dox flags of their party, with which they returned and 
decorated the arch. This insulting conduct aroused 
in its turn the wrath of a city Alderman, who forth- 
with obtained a ladder, and was in the act of ascend- 
ing it, with a view of pulling the flags down, when 
some Orangemen — who had taken their stand on the 
top of tlie arch, imagining, perhaps, in their ardor, 
that they were defending the real instead of tiie imita- 
tion gate of Derry — shook the ladder till the Alder- 
man had fallen to the ground, after which they suc- 
ceeded in breaking the ladder itself. A master of a 
lodge then interfered, but with an equally fruitless re- 
sult. The flags remained flying when the Prince came 
out of churcli, and within view of the royal party. 
There was a large crowd assembled, and a good deal 
of excitement and disorder prevailed. One Orange- 
man conducted himself in a riotous manner, and was 
taken into custod}^, upon which another of his party 
attempted to rescue him. The object of this was to 



128 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

create a disturbance favorable to forcing the royal 
carriage to pass under the arch — a proceeding which 
some of these wretched blackguards had openly talked 
about while the flags were being put up, and as the 
Prince emerged from the church. Had there been the 
slightest practical attempt at carrying out this design 
there would have been bloodshed, and the Battle of 
Toronto would hereafter have occupied as conspicu- 
ous a place in the pages of the future historian, as the 
recent conduct of the Orangemen in Canada will, not- 
withstanding. 

In the afternoon the Duke of Newcastle, Earl St. 
Germains, and the Governor General, after visiting 
the University, walked down to inspect the objection- 
able arch, and, being recognized by some of the Or- 
ange party, they were hooted and followed in a rather 
threatening manner. 

On the following Monday morning at a few minutes 
before nine, several thousands had assembled in and 
around the amphitheatre at the railway station for the 
purpose of witnessing the departure of His Royal 
Highness for Collingwood, ninety-four miles north- 
ward from Toronto. These greeted him with loud 
cheers as lie appeared in view and stepped into tlie 
open car^ decorated with flags, embossed crowns, 
Prince's plumes, imitation maple leaves, and ottomans, 
which had been provided for the occasion by the 
Northern Railway Company of Canada. 

Davenport was the first station arrived at, and the 
train passed slowly, in order to give those present an 
opportunity of seeing the Prince, and vice versa. 

At Richmond Hill there was a few minutes' stoppage, 
to take in water. A neat arch here spanned the track, 
and a large concourse stood gathered, uttering vocifer- 
ous acclamations, to which the Bulfalo band on board 
the train joined " God save the Queen." 

At Aurora there was a stoppage for wood. Two 
arches were erected across the track at this point, one 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN- AMERICA. 129 

of which was Masonic and the other Orange. There, 
was some excitement and annoyance displayed here, 
owing to the presence of the Orange arch. However 
the royal car passed under it, and, arriving at New- 
market, stopped a few minutes. The crowd was here 
very dense, amounting to nearly three thousand per- 
sons. A large stand or platform was filled with 
ladies, gentlemen and children of an agricultural 
aspect. A salute was fired, and an address presented 
by the local authorities. 

At Bradford a stoppage of ten minutes occurred. 
The concourse was here greater than at any former 
place, and the preparations more extensive. A hand- 
some dais occupied the centre of an amphitheatre, and 
to this His Royal Highness was conducted to receive 
an address. Two large arches were erected within 
yiew, and three companies of firemen and two bands 
of music were among the other attractions. The 
municipal authorities and leading men of the town 
were in full evening dress. An address was presented, 
to which the Prince read a reply. Cheers rang again 
and again after this. 

Women put their butterflies in motion, or rather 
their cambrics into a flutter, and said " Where is he ?" 
*' There he is!'' and lifted their children on to the 
shoulders of m.en and seemed wild with delight, while 
the heroes of the plough and lords of the stubble 
opened wide their mouths with sheer curiosity. 
Young ladies endeavored to make themselves as con- 
spicuous as possible, and threw bouquets into the 
royal car. The Prince smiled, bowed, looked happy, 
and pleased all. 

Craigville was hurried by, and Barrie, the county 
town of Simcoe, was reached, where the train stopped 
another ten minutes, and the Bradford scene was more 
than re-enacted. A handsome pavilion, commanding a 
fine view of the town, the bay, and the lake, stretching 
away further than the eye could carry, was erected 



130 ROYALTY. m THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

near the track in the rear of the station. To this 
pavilion His Royal Highness was conducted, passing 
under on his way a tastefully built agricultural arch, 
surmounted by a Prince of Wales' plume made of 
sheaves of wheat. The firemen and Barrie Volunteer 
Rifles were present in full force, a band discoursed 
pleasant music, and seven or eight thousand people 
cheered. The County Council and Magistrates pre- 
sented addresses respectively, which were separately 
replied to. 

Angus was passed slowly, during which a gun was 
fired. Here, as well as at the two next stations — 
arches were erected, and near one of them a gentle- 
man, with bare legs and a peculiar wag of the head, 
was indulging in the pastime of playing the bagpipes, 
to the intense delight of some small boys. 

Collingwood was next reached, and here the re- 
ception, although warm enough for the size of the 
place, was second to that of Barrie, In the number 
of its arches, however, it surpassed Barrie, but they 
were of less imposing appearance. A pavilion stood 
near the station, and in this two addresses were pre- 
sented to His Royal Highness, to which he returned 
separate replies. Some hundreds of school children 
then sang two verses of the national anthem, at the 
conclusion of which the band struck up the same, and 
the Prince proceeded to the steamer Rescue — only a 
short distance removed — and which sailed immediately 
after the royal party had gone aboard, on a trip on 
Georgian Bay, an inlet of Lake Huron. Luncheon 
was at once served, and after a sail of an hour and a 
quarter the party returned. Two other excursion 
steamers escorted the Rescue, and they were crowded 
with cheering masses. The Prince engaged himself in 
conversation with those around him during the time 
thus spent, and impressed all who saw him with the 
same favorable opinion as he has earned among all 
ranks elsewhere. The scenery around Collingwood 



THE PRINCE OP WALES IN AMERICA. 131 

is not very inviting ; but " anything for a change," as 
the play says. 

His iloyal Highness and suite returned to the train 
sliortly before three, and arrived in Toronto at half- 
past six. 

A display of fire-works took place between eight and 
nine in the area of the amphitheatre ; but a poorer 
exhibition hardly ever called together twenty thousand 
people. A torch-light procession of the firemen fol- 
lowed immediately afterwards. 

Tuesday was a busy day for His Royal Highness, 
and equally so for those who, like myself, went over 
the same ground with him. 

It was a pitiful sight, although under opposite cir- 
irumstances it would have been a fine one, to watch the 
thousands that crowded the streets between ten and 
eleven on that dreary morning — to see them all mak- 
ing for the one point, and that one point the amphi- 
theatre near the water's side. There were school 
children marshaled in long lines, and dressed in a doz- 
en varieties of costume, the girls with wet frocks and 
dirty stockings — for before many of them reached the 
desired spot it began to rain — and the boys with their 
trowsers turned up at the feet. There were citizens 
and folks from the country of all descriptions, and 
Sons of Temperance carrying banners, and rifle com- 
panies in sombre garb. 

These assembled by the hour of eleven, in a dense 
mass, in and around the amphitheatre adjoining the 
royal pavilion, and remained in eager waiting for the 
arrival of the Prince. But it was not till nearly a 
quarter to twelve that the open carriage, with the hood 
over it, drawn by four horses, passed under the tri- 
umphal arch into the inclosure, where the twenty or 
thirty thousand were congregated. Then there was a 
long and glorious cheer, which did the heart good to 
listen to, and His Royal Highness alighted, and taking 
his stand in the pavilion, listened to an address from 



132 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

the officers and members of the Royal Canadian Yacht 
Club, all of whom were in their miiform standing on 
each side of the pavilion. 

He then walked to the rear of the structure, where 
a wide sweep of the lake was commanded, with the 
fourteen first and second class yachts that were to run 
together drawn up for starting in the foreground. He 
went as far as the water's edge to give the signal for 
starting, but owing to some mismanagement a delay 
occurred, and His Royal Highness, preferrirg shelter 
to the storm, retired under the railway station. At 
this stage of the proceedings the crowd broke through 
the lines of the policemen and rushed in disorder around 
the royal suite. Meanwhile, the wet school children 
were singing two verses of the national anthem, and 
the royal suite were anxious to be off ; but His Royal 
Highness was resolved to see the start notwithstanding 
the uncomfortable surroundings. One man pushed his 
way forward with an old umbrella, which he held up, 
possibly with the best intentions, and addressing the 
Prince, said, " Will you take my umbrella, sir ?" His 
Royal Highness turned away with a smile, and the fa- 
vor was declined. 

In a few moments after this the signal for the start 
was fired. That instant the jibs and foresails of the 
yachts were hoisted, and, veering round, they all went 
off well together towards the first buoy, near the east- 
ern entrance. Out they stood, with a full spread of 
canvas, and the heavy breeze bending them freely 
over. The thousands lining the esplanade shouted, the 
children sang, the disorder ashore became greater, and 
His Royal Highness, expressing regret that he was 
unable to await the result, entered his carriage and 
drove away, followed by a tremendous outburst of 
cheering. 

It spoke well for the enthusiasm and loyalty of the 
people that the rush to the Park after this was equal 
to that at the amphitheatre, notwithstanding the rain. 



THE PRINCE OP WALES IN AMERICA. 133 

The St. George's and St. Andrew's Societies and the 
Highland Brigade were present in the neighborhood 
of the canvas-covered stand erected near the founda- 
tion stone of tlie Queen's statue in the grounds front- 
ing the University. 

Thousands held umbrellas in the background. 

At half-past twelve the Prince arrived, and this was 
the signal for a salute from the field battery. He was 
received on alighting from his carriage by the Mayor 
and Dr. McCaul, the President of the Univeristy, and 
by them conducted over a carpeted pathway to the 
stand, passing on their way a couple of Russian guns 
captured by the British at Sebastopol, and presented 
to Toronto by the Queen. 

The cheering was immens^^ during this time. Silence 
having been restored. Dr. McCaul read an address to 
His Poyal Higlmess, asking him on behalf of the in- 
habitants of the city to lay the foundation stone of a 
pedestal for a statute of the Queen. A silver trowel 
was then handed to him, and he- at once proceeded to 
spread some mortar on the stone. The builder com- 
pleted the trowel-work, and the stone was lowered by 
a pulley. Royalty then applied the square and plumb, 
and giving the stone three gentle taps with a mallet, 
pronounced it laid, and the Park inaugurated. 

A review of the active volunteer force followed. 
The several corps were drawn up eastward of the 
stand. The evolutions commenced by the troops pre- 
senting arms, while the bands played the national an- 
them. His Royal Highness, meanwhile, having ad- 
vanced to the east front of the platform. They next 
shouldered arms, and forming fours right, marched 
past him in quick step to the music of the " British 
Grenadiers." 

His Royal Highness then drove to the University, 
where he was received by the Chancellor, President, 
and others, and conducted to the Convocation Hall. 
A large number of ladies and gentlemen were here 



134 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

assembled, and the students lined a passage through 
which the Prince passed to tlie dais at tlie head of tho 
hall, on which a throne had been erected. 

The Chancellor, Justice Burns, then read an address 
of welcome, which was graciously replied to by the 
Prince, after which tlie former proposed the enroll- 
ment of His Royal Highness as a student of the Uni- 
versity. The motion was carried amid loud cheer- 
ing, after which the Registrar presented the college 
book to the Prince, who at once signed it. 

The Prince was next conducted through the Museum 
and class-rooms, but not on to the roof, as originally 
intended, owing to the state of the weather. 

After this he drove back to Government House. At 
three, the weather having moderated, he re-entered his 
carriage, and proceeded to the Botanical Gardens. 

A large amphitheatre or rustic pavilion had been 
erected inside, with a reserved place in its centre for 
the royal party. To this tliey were conducted, and 
here an address from the Directors of the Horticul- 
tural Society was read to His Royal Highness. In 
his reply he said, "I shall be content "if the tree 
which I am about to plant flourish as your youthful 
city has already done." The tree alluded to was a 
maple, and after it had been lowered into its place, a 
few spadefulls of eartli were thrown about its roots by 
royal hands. He tlien walked to the tents, where some 
flowers and fruits had been placed for exhibition, and 
after a short stay returned to the gateway, in the 
midst of a disorderly crowd that gathered round, and 
stared at and followed him to his carriage, making it 
a matter of considerable difficulty for him to work his 
way through, and still worse for his suite behind. His 
exertion reddened his face ; but he laughed heartily, 
with the Governor General, when he reached the car- 
riage. 

The Normal School, to which he drove next, was 
less than half a mile off ; so many of those who had 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 135 

gatlicrecl in and near the gardens scampered after* liim 
to have another glimpse of the royal face. Here an 
address was presented, a song was sung, and bouquets 
thrown ; "Albert Edward" was also written in the 
visitor's book. 

Knox's College was afterwards visited, where a 
similar scene occurred, after wWch His Royal High- 
ness returned to the Government House. Meanwhile, 
the two or three hundred composing the Belleville 
deputation were walking about the streets with their 
badges on their breasts. 

The deputation, which included the Mayor and nine 
members of the City Council, had been received by 
His Royal Highness at two o'clock, and in reply to 
their expressions of regret, and invitation to return, 
in which case nothing shonld occur to mar the har- 
mony of the visit, the Prince said that it pleasedh im 
to see them, and he was convinced of the loyalty of the 
people, and that the doings of a certain party were 
against the wishes of the majority. He would blot 
all unpleasant recollections from his memory, and on 
returning home assure Her Majesty of the loyalty of 
the citizens of Belleville ; but prior engagements 
would prevent his visiting the town, otherwise he 
should have been happy to do so. 

The ball in the Crystal Palace was the next great 
event of the day, and presented a magnificent specta- 
cle ; but there were several drawbacks attending it. 
The room was built in the form of a parallelogram, 
and tastefully decorated with flags. It was provided 
with full length galleries down each side, and a sepa- 
rate division on the ground floor for supper. 

The Prince did not arrive till a quarter past eleven, 
and as dancing did not commence before, he opened it 
with the Lady Mayoress as his partner. Those who 
had come early found the time drag on very slowly. 
Moreover, the whole building was uncomfortably cold 
and draughty, and remained so during the whole even- 



136 

ing. So mucli was this felt that blue noses, attenuated 
features, cold hands, and occasional shivers were gen- 
eral. Ladies pronounced it the most unbecoming ball 
they had ever attended, and the complaint was uni- 
versal. 

The Prince was dressed in his uniform, and, with 
his usual penchant for dancing, took part in every 
dance till the programme was exhausted, soon after 
four. Then a general scramble for hats, caps, and 
coats took place, which resulted in nearly everybody 
carrying away somebody else's garments instead of 
their own, despite their being ticketed. 

At eleven o'clock on the next morning the royal 
guest left by special train for London, calling at Guelph 
and other places e?i route. He was loudly cheered on 
his departure by several thousands assembled in the 
amphitheatre and its vicinity. Brompton and George- 
town were the first stopping places, and at each a large 
portion of the inhabitants had collected to give En- 
gland's heir a welcome. 

Guelph came next, and here a splendid reception 
awaited him. He was escorted to a pavilion front- 
ing the Town Hall by the Mayor and other functiona- 
ries, who were in full dress. A salute was fired, nearly 
a thousand children sang " God save tlie Queen," and 
addresses were presented from the town and county 
respectively. A handsome arch was erected within 
view, and other decorations abounded on all sides. 

The royal party returned to the cars in the midst 
of rapturous cheering. 

At Petersburg an address was presented in German, 
and an impromptu reply returned to it by His Royal 
Highness, an incident which delighted tlie Germans. 
At Stratford another address was presented, and a sa- 
lute fired from logs pierced for cannon, there being 
no metal guns in the place. Truly, necessity is the 
mother of invention. 

St. Mary's was passed slowly, to the music of a thou- 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 137 

sand cheers, and at a few minutes past four the royal 
train reached London. Here the reception was very 
enthusiastic, and the display creditable to the town. 
The royal party stepped into their carriage and drove 
without delay to a pavilion, where addresses were 
read by the Mayor and Warden of the county respect- 
ively, to each of which the Prince read a reply. 
Cheers were then given with much gusto, and the 
Prince re-entered his carriage ; the moment after 
which a rude brute lifted His Royal Highness' hat off, 
and said " Let's have a look at you." This outrage 
was borne with excellent temper by the Prince, who 
gracefully retook his hat from the fellow. 

There was considerable disorder just now, the crowd 
rushing in on all sides, in the midst of which the royal 
carriage moved away, and took its place in the proces- 
sion. At one point the horses drawing the royal car- 
riage were stopped, and several halts occurred through 
the people blocking up the way. 

The cavalry force of the town acted as the guard of 
honor, and their patience was severely tested. How- 
ever, he reached the Tccumseh Hotel in safety, and 
dined there at half-past seven, after which he retired 
early. 



CHAPTER XYI. 

The London of America — Its Features and its Differences — Sarnia — 
The Indians and their Eloquence— Presentation of Medals— The 
Prince's Journey to Niagara — Fort Erie — Arrival at Niagara — 
Illumination of the Falls, etc., etc. 

I AM writing of the city of London, situated on the 
banks of the Thames, in the county of Middlesex. The 
London of the New World is a Lancashire village, 



138 

compared with its namesake of the Old World. It is 
a rural-looking semi-civilized spot, with a clownish 
population, for the most part, that have none of the 
wit or discipline of a London mob in England. 

The city has only been incorporated fifteen years, 
yet it boasts of two daily newspapers, which speaks 
well for the tastes of many of the community. The 
population is about twelve thousand, the great major- 
ity of whom are Protestants. 

London, which is also called the Forest City, is the 
centre of an extensive agricultural district. The 
streets of the city cross each other at riglit angles, and 
the shops and houses are chiefly of one or two stories, 
although there are several fine buildings and many 
averagely so. There is no doubt tliat London will 
eventually become a fine city, but the absence of ship- 
ping will always operate against it. As Cuzco was 
to Peru, so will London be hereafter to Western Can- 
ada. I strolled round tlie city on the night after the 
reception, to see the illuminations. I passed through 
Pall Mall and Piccadilly, and had a good look at 
Westminster Bridge, and after that at Blackfriars 
Bridge, both spanning the Thames, which is here less 
than two hundred feet wide. But I saw in them no 
splendid thoroughfares, no monuments of stone-work 
or triumphs of engineering skill. Wood, not many 
years hewn from the forest of Windsor, which environs 
the city, was the material of which both the bridges, 
and the Pall Mall and Piccadilly houses were built, 
and the contrast between the things of the old Lon- 
don and the new became more and more marked. 
Yerily, I said, this is London only in name. I meet 
nothing familiar here. There is nothing to remind 
me of the great city of the world but so many names 
that appear before me as if in mockery. But go on 
and flourish, tiiou young giant, fresh from the primeval 
forest. The surest way to reach a mark is to aim be- 
yond it. 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 139 

With these reflections, I walived on, my path lighted 
by the reflections of gaseliers shaped into Prince of 
of Wales' plumes and words of welcome. The illumin- 
ations were creditable. Arches lighted with gas jets 
here and there crossed the streets, but at longer in- 
tervals than at any other town where the Prince re- 
mained to attend a hall. I glanced at cottage and 
house and store windows, and I saw rows of burning- 
candles, and occasionally my eye rested on some bright 
transparency. Once in the distance I saw a bonfire 
casting a lurid glare around, and once a procession of 
firemen and others bearing torches in their hands, ar- 
rested my attention. " Are you the man as shook 
hands with the Prince,'^ said one rougli fellow to an- 
other, jocularly, within hearing, after the procession 
had passed with its accompaniment of blaze and Ro- 
man candles. It was a joke founded on fact, for I am 
sorry to say that one of London's horny-handed citi- 
zens had the audacity to seize the hand of His Royal 
Highness, and shake it like a pump-handle, as he sat 
in his carriage, during his progress from the pa.vilioa 
to the hotel. The trip by railway to Sarnia, on Thurs- 
day, was a very pleasant one. The Prince left Lon- 
don at nine o'clock in the morning, and rode through 
without stopping, the scenery being one of primeval 
forest the whole way. The tints of the foliage looked 
rich and mellow in the autumnal sun, and the primi- 
tive aspect of the scene was refreshing. Among the 
four thousand assembled at the Sarnia Railway Sta- 
tion were two hundred Lidians from the Maniboulin 
Islands, who sat on long benches, with the St. Clair 
River at their back, and the white cottages of Port 
Distinguishable on the opposite shore. The red men 
in question had all the characteristics of their nature 
apparently unaltered by intercourse Avith their civil- 
ized brethren. Their faces were painted red and black, 
and their heads wreathed with hawks' feathers and 
squirrels' tails. They wore rings in their noses and 



140 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

moccasins on their feet, and were otlierwise appareled 
in true Indian style, while, to complete the toute ensem- 
hie, they were armed with battle-axes. The chief of 
these, Kanwagashi, or the Great Bear, by name, ad- 
vanced towards His Royal Highness, after the munic- 
ipal authorities had presented their addresses, and 
himself uttered an oration to his " Great Chief" in 
-the Indian tongue. 

Wliat Demosthenes would have said of such an out- 
burst of native eloquence, I cannot say, but all who 
heard it were prodigiously amused. At the close of 
each sentence or part, the red man folded his arms and 
paused while it was being translated into English. 
The harangue reminded the Prince that the sky was 
beautiful, that it was preordained that Albert Edward 
and himself should meet and that his heart was glad of 
the event. He hoped the sky would continue fine for 
both those of the white and those of the red skin, and 
that His Royal Highness would remember the red 
men when he came to the throne. 

The Prince smiled, said he was grateful for the ad- 
dress, and hoped the sky would continue beautiful. 
He would never forget his red brethren. 

The yells of delight which issued from the throats 
of the aborigines as this was translated to them, caused 
involuntary mirth among the pale-faces. 

The chiefs, in addition to being ring-nosed, painted, 
and moccasined, had buffalo horns on their heads, and 
snake skins around their waists, thickly set witli por- 
cupine quills or colored grass. To these His Royal 
Highness presented medals nearly as large as the 
mouth of a tumbler, while to the Indians of lower 
rank he gave medals of smaller size, and these bore 
the likeness of the Queen on one side and the royal 
arms on the reverse. The Indians felt flattered, and 
returned the compliment by giving him a present of 
tomahawks, wampums, pipes, bows and arrows, and 
bark work. 



THE PRINCE OP WALES IN AMERICA. 141 

After driving' tlirougli the town and lunching at the 
Grand Trunk Railway Station, the prosperity of which 
the Prince proposed in a toast, he embarked on the 
steamer Michigan and sailed up the St, Clair River to 
Lake Huron — which appeared dotted with sails — and 
back again. 

An hour and a half later I saw men in ill-fitting 
garments bobbing to His Royal Highness at the levee 
in the Town Hall, London, and that evening I saw him 
dancing with the worst-dressed, worst-looking, worst- 
dancing partners he has had in Canada. Between two 
and three hundred attended it, and the Prince danced 
from the Alpha to the Omega of the programme. 

At ten o'clock on the next morning he left by special 
train on the Great Western Railway for Paris, on his 
way to Niagara. 

The car he rode in was built for this occasion and 
furnished like a drawing-room, with the walls painted 
white, with gilt lines. Enviable railway traveler! 
We honored a crowd at IngersoU by waiting a few 
moments while they were letting off the steam of their 
loyalty, and then proceeded to Woodstock, thirty miles 
from London, where all, save the Duke of Newcastle, 
who was unwell, undertook an exceedingly dusty drive 
to the residence of the Mayor, where a dais was erect- 
ed under the veranda, to which the Prince was con- 
ducted. Here no less than four addresses were read, 
to which replies were promised by mail. 

The weather was beautiful, and the ladies, dressed 
in white, with blue sashes, gathered round His Royal 
Highness, and sang " God save the Queen," in a man- 
ner rather embarrassing to the Prince than otherwise. 
A collation was spread in the dining-room, to which 
the party afterwards adjourned for a few moments, 
preparatory to their return through the dusty streets. 

Woodstock is a quiet spot in the centre of an agri- 
cultural district, and has a population of about five 
thousand. Its hedgerows and fields are suggestive 



142 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

of English country scenes, and haystacks and hotels 
are almost equally common within its precincts. 

When we arrived at Paris a rifle company had 
formed as a guard of honor, and a thousand of loyal 
Canadians were assembled to welcome their future 
King. An arch, crowned with a Prince of Wales 
plume, made of wheat-sheaves, stood in the rear, and 
a landscape of hill and dale filled up the background. 
The inevitable address was presented, and we stepped 
from the Great Western to the Buffalo and Lake Huron 
Eailway, where another State car was in waiting for 
the Prince. 

A rapid ride brought us to Brantford, where His 
Royal Highness walked to his carriage under a hand- 
some arch, and between a double line of school-girls, 
in white frocks, who, while singing the national anthem, 
threw bouquets at his feet, so that his path was literally 
strewed with flowers. 

A group of Mohawk Indian chiefs met him at the 
end of the platform, and one of them delivered into 
his hand an address, upon which there was a mutual 
bow, but no exchange of words. The red men of 
Brantford were dressed in as full and gorgeous costume 
as their brethren of Sarnia, but the squaws, that stood 
crouchjngly aloof, looked wretched. 

Another address from the pale-faces, and another 
dusty drive succeeded, before we reached the Kirby 
House, where a public luncheon was served, presided 
over by the Mayor, who, as soon as the royal party 
had sat down, rose and said, " Now, then, you must all 
keep quiet — I must have it. I can't allow any re- 
marks to be made while we're here.-' 

The Prince smiled, the Governor General looked 
angry, and everybody else felt either amused or an- 
noyed at such an uncalled for lecture. The Mayor 
was a rough, farmer-like man, and was evidently under 
the influence of strong waters. He rose again, after 
a short interval, and made another observation of the 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 143 

same kind, notwithstanding the remonstrance of Sir 
Edmund Head, which occasioned much merriment 
throiio'hout tlie room. 

o 

Danville was the next place of stoppage, and here 
an address was presented in the royal car, and a negro 
attracted general attention by his rapid loading and 
firing of a cannon. He fired about twenty shots from 
the one piece within a quarter of an hour. Such fel- 
lows as him would astonish the enemy in a sea-fight, 
and would have made Pizarro grow pale, and Cortez 
tremble. 

At half-past four we arrived at Fort Erie, after 
passing through twenty miles of uncleared land. Car- 
riages were in waiting to convey the royal party to 
the ruins of the fort, which, in years gone by, had been 
a stronghold of the British. It stood at the distance 
of half a mile from the station, with its two towers 
pierced with embrasures and partly overgrown with 
ivy, distinctly visible. The city of Buffalo lay imme- 
diately facing us on the opposite side of the Niagara 
River, here about two miles wide. 

The historical recollections of His Royal Highness 
and suite were revived as they stood gazing upon tlie 
spectacle of decay, just as people might in an old 
graveyard upon the tombs of their ancestors. 

On their return, the Prince embarked on board the 
steamer for Chippewa, and received a salute of twenty- 
one guns from the United States battery fronting the 
railway terminus as he passed. The scenery here was 
delightful, and the weather equally so. The river was 
as tranquil as an Italian lagoon, and the sun sinking 
with lurid radiance shed a flood of brilliant many-huecl 
light across the still bosom of the river. It was such 
a scene as would have fascinated the eye of Turner, 
who was grand upon sun and sunset views, and very 
prodigal of his paint into the bargain, as all who have 
been through the Turner Gallery cannot fail to have 
remarked. 



144 

It was dusk when we entered the narrow inlet at 
Chippewa, between two huge bonfires blazing on either 
bank, and crowds in their vicinity looking spectral in 
the glare. A torch-light procession enlivened the 
landing scene, and a temple, illuminated with Bengal 
lights, at a point nearly half way between the railway 
station and the Clifton House, in wliich the usual ad- 
dresses were presented, had a very theatrical effect. 

That evening the Prince dined at his residence, for- 
merly known as Mr. Zimmerman's. It stands, sur- 
rounded with lawn and garden ground, within a pistol 
shot of the Clifton, but is hidden from the view by 
trees and shrubbery. Thus His Koyal Highness at 
length found a sequestered spot where he could be- 
guile existence as calmly and pleasantly as he pleased. 

Two or three liours after his arrival the Falls were 
illuminated with Bengal lights, which had a very 
unique and splendid effect. This was done by Mr. 
Blackwell, of Montreal, Director of the Grand Trunk 
Railway, to whom the public are indebted for so orig- 
inal an idea. One of the lights was placed under the 
Table Rock, and burned there with varying intensity 
for nearly half an hour, meanwhile revealing the foam- 
ing waters of the Horseshoe cataract as they hurried 
wildly to the gulf, their whiteness shining in clear 
contrast with the surrounding darkness. The reflec- 
tion of other lights fell full upon the American fall, 
that had all the lustre of snow in the first rays of an 
Arctic sun, and all the charm of vitality, for those 
waters seemed to live as they disported in their 
strength, and spoke in their voice of thunder. 

The play of the changing light across a scene of 
sucli natural grandeur was sublime in the influence it 
worked. The imagination of Dante never conjured 
up anything so singular as existing in the dreamy re- 
gions of which he wrote as this night scene at Niagara. 
The mist and spray might have been likened, in the 
language of Spurgeon, to smoke from hell or steam 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 145 

from boiling waters, so much did they appear in char- 
acter with the lights which shone like huge fires. 

If the moonbeams had been playing upon tlie face 
of nature, then the illusion would, to a great extent, 
have been lost ; but that darkness, which was neces- 
sary to give it full effect, was there to enhance a spec- 
tacle, the like of which was never seen before. A 
display of rockets and illuminations ashore aided the 
fiery grandeur of the tableau, and gave unto men the 
transitory look of imps. 

It was a grand sight thus to»see the proud waters 
of the. greatest cataract in the world rushing to their 
gorge under an aspect so entirely novel, and the spec- 
tators gazed in admiration till the fleeting effulgence 
had passed away, and night once more in darkness 
reigned supreme. 



CHAPTER XYII. 

The Falls and tlie Prince ofWales—Faiini crossing Niagara— Blondin 
and his Exploits— Description of bis Performances— Crossing on 
Stilts— The Prince in the Spray— Illumination of the Falls— The 
Prince in the United States, etc. 

If I were to write a description of the great cataract 
of America in modern Greek it would be somewhat 
new to the people of Athens ; if I were to do the same 
in Arabic, it would carry freshness with it to the sub- 
jects of Abd-el-Kader ; if in Hindostanee, it would be 
read with curiosity by the Mohammedans ; but if I were 
to do it in English, French, Italian, or German, it would 
appear but a barren repetition, for the theme is well 
worn. Thousands have exhausted their stock of similes 
and power of language in the endeavor to bring clearly 



146 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

before the mind's eye the one famous waterfall of the 
world — Niagara. And, strange to say, no two de- 
scriptions have an exact affinity to each other, for, 
perhaps, no two men have formed exactly tlie same 
judgment upon them or viewed them with the same 
feelings, and this diversity has been heightened by the 
various aspects under which the Falls may be viewed, 
both as regards point of view, weather, season, light 
and darkness, and other local influences. There are 
the sublime, the sentimental, the eloquent, the pictorial, 
the artistic, the fanciful, the topographical, the tech- 
nical, the statistical, the practical or matter-of-fact, the 
poetical, the legendary, the hum-drum, and the bom- 
bastic styles of describing Niagara, and each style has 
had its votaries. It would be interesting to the student 
of Niagara — for the task would amount to a study — 
to read all the descriptions of the great cataract ever 
written. How Niagara would alternately smile and 
frown, and knit its brow, and finally burst into a roar 
of laughter, if it had a personality and intelligence of 
its own, and could only read these specimens of de- 
scriptive skill, and how he or she would laugh at me 
into the bargain for setting myself up as a critic over 
all, when, at the same time, I am no better than my 
neighbors. 

After this I can hardly venture to say more of Ni- 
agara without finding some good excuse. But, hap- 
pily, I have one in the visit of the Prince of Wales. 
He is standing on Table Rock on this pleasant morn- 
ing, and the warm September sun is shining full upon 
liim as he looks down at the glittering flood of foam, 
with its many hues, from the diamond to the emerald, 
through shades of green and yellow, brown and purple, 
red and blue, above which wreaths of vapor float from 
the bed of the gorge lightly tinted with the rainbow. 
The roar of the cataract is sublime, the sky beautifully 
blue, the forest rich in foliage, the shore tranquil. 

Five years ago I stood on the same spot in the midst 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 147 

of a storm. ^ The sky was then dark and gloomy, and 
contrasted deeply with the fleecy whiteness of the 
Eapids. The lurid streaks of lightning, the roll of 
thunder, the rushing of the wind, the roar of the leaping 
waters, lent an awful grandeur to the ordinary mag- 
nificence of the scene. 

His Royal Highness gazed upon the graceful curve 
of the eighteen hundred feet span and hundred and 
fifty-eight feet depth of the Canadian fall, with an 
evident appreciation of its beauty. The thirty feet 
broad middle fall and the cliff of Goat Island divided 
the American cataract, witli its fringe of foam and its 
steady torrent and its thickly wooded shore. Here 
was antithesis of tlie rarest order. I might say more, 
and become grandiloquent, metaphorical, eulogistic ; 
but I prefer preserving the happy medium, and delight 
not in exaggeration. 

I am not depicting an unsubstantial pageant, but a 
reality of the most probable character ; therefore it 
behooves me not to give rein to fancy and write as if 
Niagara were to be seen pouring out of a tinted cloud, 
surrounded by thick darkness, a mile or two above the 
point of view, while looking at which spectators were 
shaken off their feet by the see-saw trembling of the 
earth under the falls, and deafened for life by the 
roar of the waters. I write in the knowledge that a 
storm or hurricane at sea is as much more terrible, 
sublime, and awful to the senses than Niagara, as Ni- 
agara, is in comparison with a running brook. 

Shortly before five o'clock in the afternoon of the 
same day I saw a sight the like of which I never saw 
before. It was Farini crossing the Niagara River, 
about half way between the Falls and the Suspension 
Bridge, on a tight rope. He had started from the 
American side, habited in a red jacket, and was ad- 
vancing quickly, with the balance-pole in his hand. 
The river here was much wider and the cliffs higher 
than below the bridge, where Blondin was to perform 



148 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

his feats, and the work of walking so far, under such 
circumstances, must have required enormous courage, 
endurance, skill, and presence of mind, especially when 
the rather high state of. the wind was taken into con- 
sideration. Yet the remuneration derivable from an 
occupation involving so much peril seemed quite inad- 
equate, for the number of spectators was small on 
either shore. 

His Royal Highness passed on horseback at this 
time, and uttered an exclamation of wonder as ho 
watched the stealthy progress of the actor in a part 
so thrilling. 

As soon as the Prince and party arrived in Blon- 
din's inclosure, that genius of the rope set out from the 
American side, and came on slowly towards the oppo- 
site point. Huge rocks pointed their naked heads 
three hundred feet below, and boiling rapids plunged 
pnward in their wild vexation. But Blondin was as 
composed as if he had been striding on terra firma, al- 
though he advanced warily, for one false step would 
have hurried him to perdition. He rested two or three 
times in his passage over, and also turned several som- 
ersaults, and, with his hands grasping the rope, hung 
down at length, and then, gathering himself up, turned 
round and round like a squirrel's cage. It was by no 
means a healthy sight, and the Prince and many others 
withdrew their eyes from such a terrible display of 
hardihood. " I felt my heart in my mouth all the 
time," was a remark I heard after the performance 
was over. 

He had twelve hundred feet to walk between the 
two shores ; but he accomplished the task easily, and 
arrived unexhausted in his shed, where the royal party 
were assembled, in less than half an hour from the 
time of starting. The Prince and others shook him 
by the hand and congratulated him on his safe arrival, 
and the spectators on the other side of the river cheer- 
ed. There were about two thousand present in all. 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 149 

Blondin is a man of slight but wiry frame, with 
sandy hair, small gray eyes, sunken cheeks and dried- 
up, sallow-looking features. He is about five feet six 
in height, and wears a mustache and imperial, but no 
beard or whiskers. He is tliirty-six years old and a 
native of Calais, and has practiced tight-rope walking 
since he was four years of age. He resides with his 
wife and children in the town of Clifton, Niagara. In 
manner he is quiet, almost subdued, yet when spoken 
to has all the cordiality of the Frenchman. He speaks 
very good English, and expresses his intention of vis- 
iting England in a short time. I remarked, as a set 
off to his very slight frame, that the muscle of his arms, 
though small, i.was freely developed, and that his chest 
was large for his size. 

He was now about to perform a feat far more peril- 
ous than that just described. This consisted in carry- 
ing a man on his back across the same rope. It may 
seem strange that any one could be found to put him- 
self in this position, and upon whose presence of mind 
Blondin could depend. However, one Harry Colcord 
— the same tliat he carried across on the two former 
occasions of his performing a similar feat — placed him- 
self on the back of Blondin, to whom he acts as agent, 
and forthwith Blondin started with him. I may men^ 
tion that, in order the more steadily to secure the 
rider, there were stirrups depending from Blondin's 
shoulders, into which the other inserted his feet. They 
rested twice or thrice on tlie way, and Colcord had to 
stand on the rope till Blondin gave the word for him 
to mount again. On one of these occasions I saw tlie 
balance-pole swaying violently up and down, and Col 
cord striving, but ineffectually, to get his right foot 
into the stirrup. People could look at the spectacle 
no longer, and sought relief in turning away their eyes. 
That evening Colcord told me that he was seized with 
cramp in the thigh. " Yes,'* said he, ''we were nearly 
getting into a scrape to-day. I thought I couldn't go 



150 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

any further. But it would never do to get frightened, 
because it would throw him over in a moment." 

Never was one man more dependent upon another 
for his life than either of these acrobatic pilgrims 
across the Niagara River during the twenty long min- 
utes of suspense which elapsed between their passage 
from shore to shore. Several times the hardy walker 
seemed to falter, almost stumble, under his load, and 
anxious eyes that had followed as he had gradually 
lessened to the view were withdrawn in the fear of an 
impending catastrophe. Then they were reassured 
again as they saw him making his way steadily to- 
wards the opposite point ; but at frequent intervals 
the irresistible anxiety would be iuj^ereased by a 
staggering movement or the act of resting. " I was 
more frightened than Blondin," said an officer of the 
rifles after the destination had been reached in 
safety. Everybody present felt a weight removed as 
this was accomplished, and they once more breathed 
freely. 

A pause of about a quarter of an hour ensued before 
the dangerous experiment of walking across on stilts 
was attempted. This was an entirely new fea'ture iu 
Blondin's career, and was put forward as the great 
event of the day. He stepped on the rope and ad- 
vanced towards us with lofty strides. This, I after- 
wards found, was owing to the stilts being hooked at 
the end in a shape resembling the feet of a bird. The 
stilts were short and fastened to his legs, so that 
he had only to be careful to step fairly on the rope 
and preserve his balance with the pole. Once he 
dropped rather suddenly on to the rope, and women 
uttered ejaculations of horror, but it was soon found 
that he had only sat down to rest. How he got up 
again was a puzzle to many. He came in with rapid 
bird-like and measured step, and was once more 
cheered and congratulated by His Eoyal Highness 
and those near. 



THE PRINCE OP WALES IN AMERICA. 151 

I shook his hand and found it naturally warm, while 
his features betrayed no excitement or exhaustion. 

The royal party and the spectators generally now 
retired, and Blondin, with bis balance-pole and stilts 
across his shoulder, walked home in his skin-fitting 
merino undervest and drawers, with a wreath of feath- 
ers on his head. 

The Prince, after this, rode down to the ferry, 
where, in company with the Duke of Newcastle, Earl 
St. Germains, the Governor General and his suite, he 
embarked on the small steamer Maid of the Mist, 
which at once steamed towards the Falls. The royal 
party each took down one of the hooded oilskin coats 
from the pegs in the cabin, and soon re-emerged upon 
deck, the Prince laughing heartily at the strange fig- 
ure he cut, being entirely enveloped in the huge Mac- 
kintosh, which the falling spray now played upon most 
musically, at the same time drenching the deck like 
heavy rain. 

The view of the Falls — looking upward, as the 
steamer suddenly swept round at the Horseshoe curve, 
heaving as she went on the verge of the descending 
waters — was beautiful, magnificent, sublime. There 
was a solemn grandeur in the wildness of those foam- 
ing floods that thrilled, and a majesty in their immens- 
ity and far-resounding voice that awed, inspired, and 
fascinated all who from that deck beheld them. 

Receding from the cataract, the vessel steamed 
down the still and silent river, hemmed in by the steep 
and giant cliffs that forcibly remind one of the scenery 
of the Saguenay. Indeed, the remark was made on 
board. 

The steamer- returned to her starting point within 
half an hour from the time of her departure, and then, 
after signing their names in the visitors' book, the 
party remounted and rode up the steep to the resi- 
dence of His Royal Highness, which was a beautifully 
situated two-story villa, standing in park-like grounds, 



152 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

commanding a view of the Falls. It was neatly furnish- 
ed with cherry and walnut wood furniture, but the ac- 
commodation it afforded was so limited that all the 
suite had to reside at the Clifton House. 

At ten o'clock in the eveniug the Falls were again 
illuminated with Bengal lights, which gave to the 
plunging waters the same spectral appearance as I 
faintly pictured in my last. Visions of liquid amber, 
pearls, molten metal, a storm in the Alps, and much 
beside, might have arisen before the mind of the spec- 
tator of a scene so strange. 

Sunday dawned wet and windy, and continued so 
throughout. The Prince attended the village church, 
and remained at home the rest of the day. 

On Monday morning the weather broke dry and 
clear, and the sun slione brightly on Albert Edward 
of England, as he was rowed in a small oared boat 
from the Canadian to the American side, landing at 
the foot of the two hundred and ninety wooden 
steps, leading three hundred and sixty feet up the 
cliff from the water-side to the summit. These he 
ascended and was soon standing on Prospect Place, 
within full view of the rainbow and the flood. Near 
him he surveyed the nine hundred feet span and hund- 
red and sixty-four feet depth of the American fall ; 
and while looking over the vast body of water rushing 
down in rapids at his left, and rolling wildly over the 
brink of the precipice at his right, into the yawning 
gulf beneath, his vision embraced the even more pic- 
turesque curve of the broad torrent separated by Goat 
Island. 

Here now, for the first time in his life, he stood in 
United States territory, which had once been British. 
The fact recurred to him, but he felt none the less 
happy. 

The contrast between the troubled rush of the wa- 
ters, before reaching the precipice, and their tran- 
quil flow after plunging over, was striking. Walking 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 153 

on eastward, along the river-side, where the rapids 
rushed tumultuously over a succession of rocky 
shelves, he reached the point where the river is divid- 
ed in the middle by the intervention of the island, and 
where the long wooden bridge extends around the 
agitated waste from that to the mainland. He ad- 
vanced half way over this, and then paused to take in 
the magnificent view of the Rapids that presented it- 
self. On sped the raging torrent, its wild wavelets 
leaping over the shelving bed and sending their foam- 
ing crests into the air, showing themselves in their 
whirling fury against the background of the sky, 
or upheaving themselves into sporting billows, ever 
changing and gleaming in the brilliant sunlight as 
they hurried madly to the gulf. 

Why should I launch into a peroration — why fur- 
ther attempt the description of Niagara after my pref- 
atory remarks? It is enough that it is an enduring 
reality which all who come can see, and there is no 
natural wonder of the world better worthy of a visit, 
at least once in a lifetime, than Niagara. 



CHIPTER XYIII. 

Departure from Niagara Falls— Brock's Monument and its Corner- 
stone — A Magnificent View — St. Catharine's and the Prince's Re 
ception there— Grimsby — Hamilton — Enthusiasm of the Populace 
— Description of the City, etc. 

On Tuesday morning at ten o'clock the Prince and 
party left Niagara Falls, under a salute from the Vol- 
unteer Artillery, and traveled by special train to 
Queenston Heights, distant seven miles. There they 



154 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

scaled the " Mountain," an elevation three hundred 
and forty-six feet above the level of the river, and ap- 
proached the lofty monument under which lie the ashes 
of the brave General Sir Isaac Brock and his aid-de- 
camp. 

The arrival was signaled by tlie firing of a royal 
salute and hoisting the Prince of Wales standard on 
the flag-staff at the foot of the monument. A com- 
pany of the Canadian Rifles acted as a guard of honor, 
and nearly a thousand people were assembled in the 
vicinity of the platform, built at one side of the 
column. 

This monument lias only been erected three years, 
and then by subscription, the original one having been 
blown up with gunpowder, placed there by some mali- 
cious hand. 

The object of this visit was to inaugurate the monu- 
ment and receive an address from the Veterans of 
1812, one hundred and fift}^ of wliom were now pres- 
ent, including Sir Allen McNab and Sir John Robin- 
son, the oldest of the survivors. The address was 
read by the latter gentleman, to which the Prince re- 
turned a very feeling reply. 

From this lofty point a magnificent view was afford- 
ed of the gorge of the Niagara, and beyond of forest 
and field, mountains and hills, backed, far as the eye 
could carry, by a wide sweep of the blue Ontario, 
while beneath and at the back of tlie village of Queens- 
ton, which has a population of five hundred, stood 
under the solemn cliffs a solitary tree. There fell 
Brock in the arms of victory. I might descant for 
hours upon a scene so picturesque and full of interest, 
but time presses, and my book has limits. 

To this tree — a venerable thorn — His Royal High- 
ness repaired after replying to the address. Near it 
an obelisk had been built, and the top stone only re- 
quired to be lowered into place. This stone was in- 
scribed with letters which told the melancholy history 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 155 

of the man. He died on the 13th of October, 1812, 
while advancing to repel the invading enemy. 

A silver trowel was handed to tlie Prince, with 
which he spread the mortar under the stone, and then 
the stone was lowered like a coffin to its grave, and 
this ended the ceremony. 

His Royal Highness and suite immediately after this 
proceeded in row-boats to the steamer Zimmerman, ' 
and, embarking, sailed down the river to the village 
of Niagara, which, in 1792, when the Duke of Kent 
landed there, was not only the metropolis of, but the 
only town in, Upper Canada. Several neat and hand- 
some arclies here lent a festive aspect to the scene at 
the water-side. The Corporation and Magistrates 
presented addresses, to which brief replies were read 
in the pavilion built for the occasion. 

After this the steamer ploughed her way into the 
wide but tranquil lake, passing the American fort at 
the mouth of the river on her way. It was soon dis- 
covered tliat some of the servants had been left be- 
hind, and for these t!ie boat returned. Then she sped 
forward again, and before her arrival at Port Dal- 
housie, the terminus of the Welland Canal, lunch was 
served on board. The three-mile carriage drive from 
the latter place to St. Catharine's was very pleasant, 
owing to the absence of dust, the rural quiet of the 
road and the beautiful sunny weather. 

The Prince was then conducted under a handsome 
pavilion, when a Corporation address was read by the 
Mayor and replied to in tlie usual manner. St. Catha- 
rine's presented a very pretty appearance, both archi- 
tecturally and in its display of volunteer troops and 
numerous decorations. One of the arches was unique 
and better-looking than might be supposed when I say 
it was built entirely of flour barrels. 

St. Catharine's is pleasantly situated on an open 
plateau above the valley, through which winds the 
Welland Canal. 



156 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

It is distant twelve miles from Niagara Falls, and 
has a population of about seven thousand. 

It is becoming a trite remark to say that His Eoyal 
Highness had an enthusiastic reception from the in- 
habitants, that the cheering and waving of handker- 
chiefs were energetic, and that bouquets were here and 
there thrown across his path ; but it will apply to this 
visit as much as to any other made by the Prince in 
North America. 

From St. Catharine's to Hamilton tlie journey was 
performed by the Great Western Railway, the line of 
which here runs for the most part through beautiful 
park-like scenery, reminding one of the landscapes of 
Devonshire and other parts of England. The train 
stopped at Grimsby, on the way, where a platform and 
dais were erected at tlie station, which was gayly fes- 
tooned with evergreens, and crowded with an eager 
multitude. The invariable address was here present- 
ed, after which the train moved on, followed by the 
rejoicino* shouts of a thousand. 

Hamilton, or " The Ambitious City," as its inhabit- 
ants delight to call it, was soon reached after this, 
and here, for the size of the place, the proceedings 
were exceedingly lively. The Hamilton Field Bat- 
tery fired a salute, the dogs barked, and there are un- 
fortunately plenty of such in the Ambitious City ; the 
people hurrahed from the hills and the level ground, 
boys scampered and jostled old women while in the 
act of shaking their pocket-handkerchiefs in the air 
for the gratification of eyes that did not see ; the Ro- 
man Catholic Bishop and his clergy walked away in 
high dudgeon because no particular position was as- 
signed to them in the procession ; the half-broken 
horses of the volunteer cavalry cut sad capers under 
their riders ; the members of the Abolition Society, 
composed entirely of negroes, stood in waiting like so 
many animated blocks of India-rubber ; those of the 
Temperance Society looked thirsting for beer ; the 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 157 

officers of the Sedentary Militia had all the appear- 
ance of theatrical soldiers ; the Canadian Order of 
Odd Fellows were certainly true to their order, and 
the Mayor would persist in exposing his bare head to 
the sun. The platform at the station overflowed with 
a crowd of both sexes, intent upon squeezing each 
other. 

In the centre of the platform was erected a dais, 
surmounted by a canopy, to which His Royal High- 
ness stepped on alighting from the car. Here the 
Mayor, with his head in the sun, read an address to 
the Prince, who, with more wisdom, kept his in the 
shade, and endeavored, by saying " Come out of the 
sun," to induce that worthy to study his health more. 

To this a reply having more than ordinary signifi- 
cance [was returned, it being the last of the kind he 
would make in the provinces. It ran thus, and was ut- 
tered with marked emphasis and feeling : 

" Gentlemen, — This is the last of the very numerous 
addresses which have flowed in upon me from the mu- 
nicipal authorities, as well as other bodies throughout 
the Queen's dominions in North America, which I 
have now traversed from east to west, and I can say 
with truth that it is not the least fervent in its declara- 
tions of attachment to the Queen, nor the least earn- 
est in its aspirations for the success and happiness of 
my future life, and in its prayers that my career may 
be one of usefulness to others and of honor to myself. 
You cannot doubt the readiness with which I under- 
took the duty which was intrusted to me by the Queen, 
of visiting in her name, and on her behalf, these pos- 
sessions of her crown. That task is now nearly com- 
pleted, and it only remains for me to report to your 
sovereign universal enthusiasm, unanimous loyalty, all- 
pervading patriotism, general contentment, and, I trust, 
no less general prosperity and happiness. I can never 
forget the scenes I have witnessed. The short time 
during which I have enjoyed the privilege of associ- 



158 EOYALTY m THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

ating myself with the Canadian people, must ever form 
a high epoch in my life. I shall bear away with me 
a grateful remembrance of kindness and affection, 
which, as yet, I have been unable to do anything to 
merit, and it shall be tlie constant effort of my future 
years to prove myself not unworthy of the love and 
confidence of a generous people." 

Hamilton was well favored by the elements. Its 
triumphal arches and other evergreen decorations, its 
ten thousand flags fluttering in the sunlight over the 
housetops, its illumination devices, its men and women 
in holiday attire, its natural scenery — all were seen to 
the best advantage in the bright and rosy liglitof day. 

The city, which was so incorporated in 1847, is built 
on a gentle slope, backed, like Montreal, by a hill 
called the " Mountain," on the southwestern shore of 
Burlington Bay, an inlet of Lake Ontario. Its streets 
cross each other at right angels, and it can boast of 
many substantial stone and brick buildings, and, what 
is better, few wooden ones, the houses being chiefly 
of the former materials. It has a population of about 
twenty-eight thousand, and publishes two daily news- 
papers. 

The procession moved forward in the midst of a 
dense multitude ; the progress was thus impeded, and 
there was much of that disorder always inseparable 
from a country mob. The line of route extended for 
about a mile and a half through the principal streets 
to the residence prepared for His Royal Highness on 
the "Mountain." This is a pleasant mansion, stand- 
ing in its own grounds, and from its elevation com- 
manding a full view of the city and bay. A similar 
house stands near, which was made ready for tlie suite, 
while others of the royal and official party were pro- 
vided for at the Boyal Hotel. Both of these residences 
had been given up by private citizens, now abandoned 
for the use of the Prince and suite. 

After passing nnder numerous tastefully decorated 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 159 

arches, and beino^ sung to, at one point, by a large 
platform full of school children, to whom he smiled 
and bowed with his customary cordiality, tired though 
he was, Albert Edward, at six o'clock, arrived at his 
destination. 

In the evening a general illumination and a fire- 
men's torch-light procession contributed to keep up 
the excitement, but the latter was singularly poor. 
At ten o'clock His Royal Highness arrived at the Me- 
chanics' Institute, where a grand concert was being 
given by the Hamilton Philharmonic Society. 

As the royal party entered tiie box prepared for 
tliem, preceded by a flourish of trumpets, the audience, 
by no means a large one, rose, and the performers, 
numbering more than a hundred, commenced singing 
the national anthem, all present taking part in the 
chorus. The Prince only remained a short time, and 
then drove home. 

In the morning, before holding the levee at the 
Royal Hotel, he visited the Central School, where a 
lot of anxious children that had lain awake half the 
night thinking about him, were assembled at their 
desks. After the levee he visited the exhibition build- 
ing. The latter is situated on an elevation at the 
western end of the city, where the view is as fine and 
extended as from tlie so-called Mountain. It is an 
industrial and agricultural exhibition, with the addi- 
tioQ of a cattle show. 

On His Royal Highness' return from the contem- 
plation of pigs and ploughs, oxen, sheep, and horses, 
he lunched with the chief men of the city at the hotel, 
and soon after three drove to inaugurate the Water 
Works. 

The Prince had a four-horse carriage, but his suite 
rode in vehicles that would have done credit to Don- 
nybrook Fair, and these were so crowded as to neces- 
sitate one man sitting on another's knee. Away they 
went, helter-skelter, through the cheering crowd. 



f 
160 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

The Prince was received by the Sheriff of the coun- 
ty, who conducted hira to the en.ofine-house grounds, 
where the watermen — or rather, Water Commission- 
ers — the Mayor, and other local dignitaries, were as- 
sembled. These, at the hand and mouth of the Chair- 
man of the Board, presented an address, to which a 
brief reply was given. His Royal Highness then 
started the engines, and a salute was fired in honor of 
the event. The ceremony being now ended, the party 
returned to town. 

The citizens' ball given in the evening was, in one 
or two respects, the worst offered to the Prince of 
Wales in the British Provinces. Owing to the hur- 
ried manner in which the room was built, none of the 
arrangements were complete. There was not even 
time enough left to allow of the floor being washed. 
It was, therefore, spotted with tobacco juice, like a bar- 
room, when the company began to assemble. More- 
over, there was a most offensive odor, which was at 
first said to be gas, but afterwards admitted to come 
from a sewer, rising in pestiferous puffs through the 
boarding, and when the Prince and party arrived, at 
eleven o'clock, this stench had become almost unbeara- 
ble, and everybody complained of it, while some went 
home in consequence. 

The room was large and square, and draped with 
red and white baize, so that its appearance was light 
and airy ; but, owing to there being at no time more 
than six hundred people present, the general effect of 
the ball was meagre. 

His Royal Highness remained till a quarter to three, 
when he left, in the midst of a general clieer. 

The illuminations in front of the public offices, 
banks, and stores, were, meanwhile, almost as general 
as on the previous evening. 

The hotels were uncomfortably crowded, and many 
sat up all night in the hall and reading-room seats, 
unable to obtain beds. Soon after noon on the follow- 



THE PRINCE OP WALES IN AMERICA. 161 

ing day His Royal Highness drove to the exliibition 
and formally opened it. There was an immense crowd 
in the grounds adjoining, and these hooted the Gov- 
ernor General in a manner which must have produced 
anything but a delightful effect upon that venerable 
head of the Canadian Government. 

The public were debarred admittance to the interior 
of the building during the royal presence, and, as a 
consequence, they pushed each other about outside in 
a manner which betrayed anything but refinement. 
Immediately after the inspection of the horses and car- 
riages, cattle and pigs, sheep and farming implements, 
the party drove to the railway station, and left by 
special train at two o'clock, under a salute from the 
volunteer battery, and cheers from the crowd assem- 
bled. Farewell,' " ambitious city T' 



CHAPTER XIX. 

The Grandenr of the Prince's Reception at Detroit— Immense Turn-out 
of the Populace — The Coup d'Etat of the Prince to reach the Rus- 
sell House— His Royal Highness takes a Drive through Detroit— 
His Departure for Chicago — Demonstrations of Welconie — Immense 
Turn-out of the Chicagoans — The Prince makes his Appearance on 
the Balcony of the Richmond House — Enthusiastic Cheers of Wel- 
come by the Populace— The Royal Party proceed on a Prairie 
Shooting Excursion. 

The night scene at Detroit on the occasion of the 
entry of the son of Queen Victoria into the United 
States was one long to be remembered by all who wit- 
nessed it. The glittering line of steamers on the river 
and the illuminated shores had a beautiful effect, and 
so also had the six hundred torches of the firemen, that 



162 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

threw a lurid glare upon the heads of the immense and 
densely packed multitude from the water-side to Jeffer- 
son Avenue. 

Unfortunately, however, the crowd was too great 
to be comfortable, and it was with some difficulty that 
even the lines of the boat were fastened to the snubbing 
posts. It became a still more difficult matter to attempt 
the formation of the procession whicli had been planned. 
The military and firemen were wedged here and there 
in the general mass, and endeavors to get them into 
order were utterly useless. The carriages were jammed 
in immovably, and could not be approached from the 
steamer. Half an hour was tlius passed, during whicli 
the cheers that had greeted the illustrious party had 
given place to a Babel of sounds, a noisy enthusiasm, 
expressive of the bubbling ardor and curiosity which 
swayed the congregated thousands. It was amusing 
to watch the unflinching perseverance with which deli- 
cate women, in spite of crushed bonnets and flattened 
crinoline, struggled in the midst of all for a place near 
where the Prince was likely to pass. Such heroic 
fortitude deserved a better reward than it met with. 
It was fortunate that only one of the crowd was pushed 
into the river, and that he was rescued immediately 
afterwards. 

The police by this time had succeeded in clearing 
a passage to the nearest carriage, which was a close 
one ; and no sooner was this done than His Royal 
Highness, accompanied by two of his suite, quietly 
entered it without being recognized by the people, who 
had expected to see him land sui-rounded by a phalanx 
of attendants. As soon as the carriage had forced its 
way through tlie crowd it was announced that the bird 
liad flown, and immediately there was a grand rush 
towards tlie Russell House, where it was known that 
apartments had been secured for " Baron Renfrew '' 
and his suite. But the carriage arrived there before 
the pursuers, who were left outside to vainly speculate 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 163 

on the possibility or probability — which they did — of 
that regal gentleman making his appearance on the 
balcony. 

Meanwhile, tlie procession, whicli those concerned 
had succeeded in stringing together, was advancing 
by Jefferson Avenue and Shelby Street towards the 
hotel, and with it came the carriages containing the 
remaining members of the royal party. 

Although there was an entire absence of triumphal 
arches and evergreen decorations, and, by necessity, a 
lack of that pagea^itry whicli had attended his progress 
through the British provinces, the eagerness to have a 
glance at royalty was even greater thaii that manifested 
on the other side of the border ; and since the days 
when Detroit acknowledged the rule of the great 
grandfather of the present Prince of Wales, it has 
been said by competent authorities that such a general 
turn-out of its population was never before witnessed. 
And it was not mere curiosity that brought about this 
result, but a sincere desire to show their admiration 
of Victoria and Victoria's son and the British nation, 
with whose people those of the United States felt allied 
by the ties of consanguinity, language, and commerce. 

The people were bound to see His Royal Highness V 
if such were possible, and although their efforts to do/ 
so detracted from the effect of the reception, the re- 
sults were hardly to be regretted. Tliere was a great 
people's demonstration in honor of the Prince's arriv- 
al, and it was by the feeling of tlie people participa- 
ting in that demonstration that we must judge. 

After breakfast on the next morning, the party took 
their places in open carriages, and. under the guid- 
ance of the Mayor, drove through the principal ave- 
nues for about Jialf an hour, and then turned down to 
the^ Michigan Central Railroad Station, where they 
arrived at a few minutes past ten. The crowd had, 
by this time, deserted the hotel, and formed there to 
the number of live thousand and more. The cheering 



164 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WOULD ; OR, 

was as energetic as Americans are ever wont to in- 
dulge in, and the excitement ran high. 

At every station, as the train progressed, there was 
a crowd proportionate in its size to the population of 
the place, and a rush to the car steps by those hopeful 
of a glimpse of the royal countenance through the 
windows. But disappointment followed, for the win- 
dows were curtained. 

The party paid for traveling the usual English spe- 
cial train rates, namely, five cents per mile for each 
person. 

On nearing Chicago we saw several houses and one 
of the large lakeside hotels beautifully illuminated. 
The railway had run parallel with the southern shore 
of the Michigan for more than sixty miles, although its 
waters were frequently shut out from our view. 

We reached Chicago at eight o'clock and found 
about fifteen thousand people assembled within the 
railway terminus, but kept back from the platform by 
a stretched rope. These gave a hearty cheer as the 
heir apparent walked hastily, in company with Lord 
Lyons, to the carriage in waiting for him, in which he 
was conveyed to the Richmond House, where the nec- 
essary apartments had been prepared for his reception. 

As soon as he passed, the crowd broke beyond the 
rope, and ruslied down the platform like a torrent and 
followed the carriage to the hotel, which closely ad- 
joined the station. The scene at Detroit was there- 
upon re-enacted. The royal party dined, slept; and on 
the next morning Baron Renfrew, happening to make 
his appearance on the balcony, was loudly cheered. 
At ten o'clock he entered his carriage in tlie midst of a 
shower of bouquets from the lady boarders of the 
house, and together with the Mayor, the Duke of New- 
castle, Lord Lyons, and others, drove to the Court 
House. Here the celebrated Mayor Wentworth, bet- 
ter known as " Long John," conducted the party into 
his ofiice, and, producing his ledger, asked the favor 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 165 

of their autographs for his future delectation. This re- 
quest having- been courteously complied with, the giant 
of Chicago "led the way up the spiral staircase to the 
summit, where a fine view of the city and the lake was 
afforded. Owing to the perfect flatness of Chicago, 
it must be seen from a lofty elevation. The top of 
the Court House is, tlierefore, the great resort of 
strangers. 

There is no doubt that the son of Queen Victoria was 
made fully familiar with the short history of the City 
of the Wigwam ; how, when it was incorporated in 
1836, it had a population of little more than five thou- 
sand, while now it could boast of more than a hundred 
and five thousand, and some of the widest streets and 
finest stores and warehouses in the Union, and a com- 
merce that outrivaled — well, I had better leave that 
to conjecture ; and what results still greater it might 
have achieved, but for the last three years' depression, 
that had thrown a mantle of sackcloth over the whole 
of the West, cities and villages alike. 

From the Court House the royal party, headed by 
the sagacious Mayor, visited the different points of the 
city. They returned to the hotel to luncheon, and 
afterwards drove down Michigan Avenue, which was 
lined with spectators, on their way to Bridgeport, 
where they inspected the hydraulic works, preparato- 
ry to leaving town by special train, for Dwight sta- 
tion, distant eighty miles, in order to enjoy a couple 
of days' shooting on the prairies. 

No sooner had the party arrived at Dwight than 
they proceeded, with the necessary dogs and guns, into 
the field ; but the gathering twilight was unpropitious 
to their sport, and they bagged no game ; neverthe- 
less the canine pack displayed points that augured 
well for their future usefulness, and tlie Prince said 
" they'll do." He and the Duke of Newcastle, Gen- 
eral Bruce and Dr. iVckland, were comfortably domi- 
ciled in the house of a Mr. Spencer, while the other 



166 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

members of the suite were quartered in tlie other two 
houses, which, with a few wooden additions, compose 
the village. 

On the next morning His Royal Highness drove with 
his suite to the old-school Presbyterian church, where 
divine service was performed. 

On returning to the house it was found that a special 
engine had just arrived from Chicago, bringing a spe- 
cial messenger with dispatches from the Queen and 
Colonial Office. The result of this was that all re- 
mained at home during the entire afternoon, reading 
and replying to their correspondence. 

The wind blew almost a gale the whole day, and it 
was impossible to avoid draughts and gusts of air, 
even indoors. The prairie presented a beautiful sight 
at this time, for the sun shone with that radiance pecul- 
iar to dry, windy weather, and lighted up the rest- 
less waves of green with incomparable effect. 

Notwithstanding that the breeze thus whistled its 
stormy song, and a few drops of rain tliat came in 
with the night pattered ominously against the window 
panes. His Royal Highness resolved, if the weather 
moderated, to rise at half-past hve o'clock, breakfast, 
and start oif to shoot prairie fowl, reserving quail for 
the morrow. 

By this tiire the wind had subsided, and the dogs 
and guns were brought into requisition. The Prince 
started in shooting costume in company with his 
equerries, Mr. Spencer, and two others. The gray light 
of dawn and the vapors of tlie morning were soon dis- 
pelled by the rising sun. Far away in the East streaks 
of crimson and gold, mellowed by all the tints of the 
rainbow, presaged the advent of the glorious orb that 
gradually appeared before the vision like a ball of fire. 
Now tlie streaks melted away slowly before the burst- 
ing effulgence. Tiie sky was a mighty vault of dim 
nncheckered blue, so unrelieved by cloud that the eye 
almost ached in surveying its vastness. A cool fresh 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 167 

breeze gave a graceful sweep to the long grass, and 
made the few trees that bordered the open land sing 
their rustling carol. 

In upward flight the bright wings of the morning 
fast spread awide. Rich, vivid, and inspiring hues 
decked the eastern horizon, and the bladed desert was 
bathed in a flood of silver radiance. 

It is not advisable to descend to the minntise of the 
day's sport, for His Royal Highness came here to be, 
to a certain extent, free from observation. I will, 
therefore, content myself by saying that the party 
were delighted with the prairie and the country gen- 
erally. During the day the entire suite were out with 
" his lordship," who could point a gun and bring down 
his bird as well as any one of them. Notwithstand- 
ing that the birds were very wild, tolerable success 
attended their shots. 

The sportsmen returned home when the day was far 
spent. 

I would advise all who have the taste, money, and 
leisure, to visit this great and unique landscape feature 
of Illinois. Here, although nature presents to the eye 
but little antithesis, she has given in the great unvary- 
ing flower-sprinkled plain a prospect which, for sub- 
limity and grandeur, is equal to many of those sights 
in which she appears most fantastic. 

On the morning of Tuesday, the 25th September, 
at half-past seven His Royal Highness and the entire 
suite left Dwight by a special train, for Stuart's Grove, 
where there is good quail-shooting to be had, owing 
to the prairie-clearing in that vicinity. 

His life, since leaving Chicago, had been one of un- 
mitigated pleasure, and already his naturally healthy 
look was enhanced by a robustness and flow of animal 
spirits before unknown to him. He never before en- 
joyed anything so much as this shooting on the prai- 
ries. He entered into the sport with all the zest of 
his ardent nature, and few can compare with him in 



168 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

his genuine relish for outdoor amusement and adven- 
ture. 

The cottap^e which was his temporary residence has 
become an object of considerable interest, both in the 
village and abroad, and will likely be a sort of Mecca 
to a certain class of pilgrims. It is a pleasant two- 
storied, white-painted, eight-windowed habitation, with 
a veranda in front, where each night the game brought 
home by the party was deposited. The Prince took 
great pride in tlie birds shot by himself, and took a 
candle with him to have a look at them after dinner. 

He slept in the largest bedroom, situated in the 
second story, with a dressing-room adjoining. The 
apartment of General Bruce was at the opposite side 
of the house, and between the two was the chamber 
occupied by the Duke of Newcastle. 

The cottage is named the Prairie Home by its owner, 
Mr. J. C. Spencer. 

On Saturday night the Prince went to a cottage on 
the same farm to look at the quarters occupied by his, 
equerries. He was accompanied by Mr. Spencer, who 
pointed the way up a ladder-like flight of steps to a 
small room — the only one — which was shared by the 
gentlemen in question. The Prince had his coat cov- 
ered with whitewash by the tiine he reached the top, 
where, meeting with those he was in search of, he had 
a hearty laugh at the adventure. When he came down 
stairs he saw the horny-handed host, who, little suspect- 
ing who he was, said, addressing. Mr. Spencer, " Where's 
the Prince?'' "Well, if you must, know," was the re- 
ply, " this is the Prince standing beside you." 

The man thought there was an attempt to " sell" him, 
and with a look of the most sublime skepticism ejacu- 
lated, " Well, if that's the Prince, all that I can say is, 
that if old Abe Lincoln was here, I'd say you'd go to 
the White House." Albert Edward went off in a 
roar. 

Lord Lyons was accommodated in another cottage, 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 169 

and Lord Hincliinbrook and the Hon. Mr. Eliot, pri- 
vate friends of His Royal Highness, recruited ex- 
hausted nature in a railway sl%eping-car. Pleasant 
recollections of a day spent in driving over and shoot- 
ing on the grand prairie and visiting in the village 
crowd upon me, and I write as one in love with his 
subject. 

I set out early, and drove across the grassy plain by 
a mere path, and started flights of prairie birds, and 
saw the horizon sparsely dotted with farm-houses, sur- 
rounded by fields of Indian corn. Mile after mile I 
continued my journey, and still the scene remained the 
same — farm after farm, undulation after undulation. 
Once I met a herdsman in charge of some cattle ; but 
he was the only specimen of humanity I saw in my 
lon<r drive throui^h these vast solitudes. 

Six miles below the village I came to several groves 
that looked like islands rising from the sea of green. 
These denoted the presence of water. One of them 
fringed Gooseberry Lake, in the vicinity of which the 
Prince passed the whole of Monday. Into its shade 
he retired for luncheon and partook of some potatoes 
baked for him on the spot, and then lighted his segar 
at the fire, which soon afterwards accidentally ignited 
a tree. 

The Grand Prairie is a hundred and seventy miles 
long by twenty -five to fifty broad, and is more or less 
settled over its entire extent. Hardly any one could 
fail to venture a supposition that this vast tract of 
country was once the bed of a lake, or tliat it will 
eventually be as densely populated as the adjacent re- 
gions. In the meantime the extreme fertility of the 
soil, which is a dark stoneless loam, is a source of sure 
wealth to the farmer. 

The Prince returned at half past seven from Stuart's 
Grove, after a day's successful quail-shooting. The 
Prince's own party consisted, as on the previous day, 
of the Duke of Newcastle, Mr. Spencer, and Captain 

8 



170 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD J OR. 

E-etallack. The latter gentleman, who Is aid-de-camp 
to the Governor General of Canada, organized the 
whole affair, he haviiig previously visited this neigh- 
borhood for sporting purposes. The other members 
of the suite shot on their own account. The result of 
the day's sport was as follows : The Prince, thirty 
head of quail ; the Duke of Newcastle, twenty liead 
of quail ; Mr. J. Clinton Spencer, ten head of quail ; 
Captain Retallack, twenty head of quail. 

On the previous day the Prince shot fifteen brace of 
prairie fowl ; the Duke of Newcastle, twelve brace ; 
Captain Retallack, five l^race ; and Mr. Spencer, two 
brace. The excess on the side of His Royal Highness 
may be accounted for by the fact of his having always 
the first shot. 

Dwight is a village of fifty houses and six hundred 
people, and has had an existence of only four years. 
It will doubtless receive an impetus from the royal 
visit, and we shall likely hear of a Renfrew Hotel at 
some future time. 



CHAPTER XX. 

Trip from Dwight to St. Louis — Origin of St. Louis — Its Early His- 
tory and Progress — Presents from His Royal Higliness— The Jour- 
ney to Cincinnati. 

It was a little before one o'clock in the morning 
when I traversed the silent prairie village of Dwight, 
in the direction of the railway station. The oscilla- 
tion of the train which carried me thenceforward to 
St. Louis exceeded anything of the kind 1 had before 
met with. It was a perpetual jumping reel, which 
made the bones ache. Moreover, the pace was so 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 171 

slow — about twenty miles au hour — that it was past 
noon when we reached the terminus on the banks of 
the Mississippi, and there, owing to the absence of a 
ferry steamer to carry us across, nearly an hour's de- 
lay took place before we reached the city. 

I was unceremoniously shaken out of my sleep at 
daybreak, alike with the other occupants of the sleep- 
ing-car, by an ebony-faced individual, wishing to know 
if I wanted breakfast. He received anything but a 
calm reply from some of those disturbed by bim. How- 
ever, I was amused as he was walking away by hearing 
some one call out to him, " Bring me a cup of coifee on 
a waiter." 

" On who?" was the darkey's responsive query, and 
he chuckled as he spoke. I imagine his thoughts re- 
curred to a waiter in human form, for he seemed to 
enjoy the idea amazingly. 

The view of St. Louis from the opposite, or Illinois 
side of the river, is very fine. In its river-side ware- 
houses it may be likened to Liverpool, while the vicin- 
ity of the State House reminds one, when seen afar off, 
of Lisbon. But no sooner does the traveler land than 
the resemblance is no longer recognized, and the scene 
hardly suggests comparison. 

The site of St. Louis was selected by Laclerc, who 
named it in honor of Louis XV., of France, on the 
15th of February, 1764. It was afterwards used as a 
trading station for the western trappers. At this 
period the population varied between fifteen hundred 
and two thousand, half of whom were usually absent, 
leading the semi-wild life of voyageuis and trappers. 
Tiie population experienced no rapid increase, for as 
late as 1820 it numbered less than five thousand. 

Meanwhile, and in the year 1768, Spanish troops 
had taken possession of it in the name of Her Catholic 
Majesty, and these retained it till its transfer to the 
United States in. 1804. Then its real progress began. 
In 1813 wood first gave place to brick in the construe- 



172 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD; OR, 

tion of houses. In 1817 the first steam-boat ploughed 
ils waters. Immigration from Illinois succeeded, and 
its population in 1840 exceeded sixteen thousand. Ten 
years later the census declared it to be nearly seventy- 
eight thousand, and now it is a hundred and sixty 
thousand. These figures tell their own tale of ad- 
vancement, and as they are unfamiliar to many even 
of the American public, I have thought tlieir introduc- 
tion not entirely without use. It has become too much 
a habit with us to neglect home, and look abroad for 
information. But now that the Prince of Wales has 
invested the places of his sojourn with a more than 
common interest, it is well to revive old recollections, 
and impart whatever there is new concerning them. 
The present royal tour has been the text for the pro- 
mulgation of much general knowledge relating to the 
British provinces, and the centre from which has radi- 
ated a lisrht bv which those reo^ions and our neidibors, 
their inhabitants, ouo^ht to be seen in a clearer and 
truer manner than ever they were before. 

St. Louis is situated on the right or western shore 
of the Mississippi, below the mouth of the Missouri, 
and above the mouth of the Ohio. The city is built 
on two limestone elevations, twenty and sixty feet 
above the level of the river. The upper terrace wid- 
ens into a plain, from which a fine view of the sur- 
rounding scenery is obtainable. St. Louis is at either 
extremity somewhat straggling in appearance, and ex- 
tends seven miles along the curve of the river. 

It may or may not be generally known that General 
Bruce transmitted three hundred dollars on behalf of 
His Royal Highness to Bloudin, of tight-rope notori- 
ety, and that Mr. Sanderson, the steward, who attend- 
ed to the royal cuisine in Canada, was presented with a 
gold watch bearing the Prince's crest, and that similar 
favors have been elsewhere bestowed under like cir- 
cumstances. 

The Prince and suite left Dwight at eight on Wed- 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 173 

nesday morning. I am told tliat before leaving the 
cottage, he planted an elm in the garden, and named 
the place " Renfrew Lodge." 

The train arrived at Alton, its destination, on the 
Mississippi, twenty miles above St. Louis, at three 
o'clock, without the occurrence of any special incident. 
The royal party then embarked on the steamer City 
of Alton, where they were met by Earl St. Germains, 
who had come from St. Louis to meet them, upon 
whicli they started for that city, and arrived at half- 
past five o'clock, under a salute from a solitary cannon. 
The upper deck was alone reserved for the Prince and 
suite, the lower part being occupied by excursionists. 

There was hardly any crowd as the vessel steamed 
up to the wharf, but before the disembarkation, a 
quarter of an hour afterwards, a few thousand people 
had gathered near the landing place.- 

The Prince was received with a general cheer as he 
stepped ashore and entered one of the carriages in 
waiting, but the curiosity of some of the " roughs" led 
them to commit the indiscretion of running close along- 
side of the carriage and staring at the occupants 
through its closed windows. The other carriages con- 
taining the suite drove off in an opposite direction, in 
order to divide the crowd, which impeded the prog- 
ress of that containing His Royal Highness. How- 
ever, within less than ten minutes the whole party had 
reached the hotel and taken possession of their quar- 
ters. 

The nature of Albert Edward, Prince of Wales, is 
of a highly sensitive order, and there is a timidity 
about him which makes him shrink from contact with 
a large and tumultuous crowd, such as that which sur- 
rounded his carriage on the occasion of his landing. 
He is of delicate organization, the temperament most 
allied to genius, and to him the paths of peace are 
most welcome. The turbulent manifestations of a mob, 
however well meant or dictated by good feeling, could 



174 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

not fail to grate liarshly upon one of so much natural 
and acquired rciiuenient. Therefore, the lower strata 
of the democratic element may have proved somewhat 
uncongenial to liim. But I am happy to say that the 
people of the United States generally, and the superi- 
or order particularly, studied his comfort, pleasure, 
and wishes with a delicacy dictated by that good sense 
which is their prevailing characteristic, that has not 
failed to impress him and his suite with a very favor- 
able idea of American consideration and courtesy. 
There was a universal desire to pay him respect and 
do him honor, and the affections have been widely en- 
listed in his welfare. The enthusiasm was even great- 
er than that displayed by the people of the British 
Provinces. 

His Royal Highness and suite left the hotel in car- 
riages on the next morning at eleven o'clock, for the 
purpose of visiting the principal sights of the city, in- 
cluding the fair. 

The committee of leading citizens, headed by the 
Mayor, accompanied His Royal Highness. 

On arriving at the fair-grounds the party were 
cheered, to which the Prince, as usual, responded by 
bowing and raising his hat. He accepted the invita- 
tion into the pagoda in tlie centre of the amphitheatre, 
and inspected the stock on exhibition, the gaze of the 
forty thousand being meanwhile full upon him. 

The party, at the invitation of the committee, after- 
wards partook of luncheon in a reserved portion of 
the building. The sight of the immense multitude on 
the grounds was during this time very grand, and the 
enthusiasm ran high. 

The drive around the city was resumed a little later, 
amid prolonged cheering from the citizens, and it was 
near six o'clock before the illustrious visitors returned 
to the hotel, much pleased with their day out. 

The peculiarities of St. Louis consist in its red brick 
houses, its smoky and ill-paved streets, its large Ger- 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 175 

man population, its hotel life, and the " Western men" 
who centre in it. 

The houses and smoke give it an English aspect ; 
the streets remind me of Cape Town and Melbourne 
as tlic}^ were seven years ago ; the Germans and Ger- 
man bookstores suggest recollections of Munich ; but 
the hotels and the men are incomparable. They are 
of the West Western. 

The notices posted in every room and passage of 
those houses of entertainment constitute the best index 
of the nature of their guests. I see several around me 
now. One is — " Gentlemen are requested not to spit 
on the walls or scratch matches on them.'' Another 
announces, " If gents throw their boots and shoes into 
the public hall it must be at their own risk." A third 
I will not mention. The fourth gives notice that 
" Gentlemen without a sufficient guarantee of baggage 
will be required to pay in advance ;" that " One gen- 
tle pull of the bell is sufficient ;" that " Gaming is ex- 
pressly forbidden," and that " If you leave your light 
burning after going to bed, it will be the duty of the 
watchman to inquire the cause." Further, " Guests 
are requested not to ring after twelve o'clock, nor un- 
necessarily disturb the quiet of the house during the 
night," to send the money when tJiey order liquor to 
their rooms, and if they have meals there, not to place 
the dishes in the public halls. That all these and 
more such notices are considered necessary, speaks 
very poorly for the refinement of the floating popula- 
tion of St. Louis. 

Those who want to see the restless and fast-eating 
propensities of the American character will find them 
here in their extreme degree. 

I need not enumerate the many railways from the 
East that centre at the city of which I speak, but the 
282 mile long line from Kansas, and the 206 mile long 
line from the direction of the Rocky Mountains, as 
also the southwestern lines, are worthy of special men- 



176 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

tion. Yet new threads will soon be added to this 
giant net-work of railways, and the city, which is now 
the great starting point from civilization to the wilder- 
ness — to Kansas, Nebraska, and Utah, and the rugged 
wilds of the Rocky Mountains leading to the Territo- 
ries on the Pacific — will itself become the centre of a 
vast civilized region, a region which as yet is includ- 
ed in savagedom. 

The river fronting St. Louis is about a mile wide 
and seventy feet deep. Its waters are usually more 
or less muddy, and stumps of trees may be seen float- 
ing quickly onwards in the swelling current, midsiream, 
to the ocean. Sand-banks, barren and dreary, here 
and there border its shores for several miles beyond, 
and but little of the picturesque meets the eye. Fur- 
ther up, however, the scenery changes ; verdure crowns 
the elevations, and silver-stemmed birches and green 
maples, with an occasional clump of huge dark pines, 
are to be seen. 

Wlien the Prince and party returned from their 
drive they proceeded to the balcony in front of Bar- 
num's Hotel, and witnessed the working of one of three 
steam fire-engines, which throbbed aloud in quick pul- 
sation as it threw a couple of heavy jets high into the 
air. The engines were a few minutes later driven un- 
der the windows of the royal apartments, where they 
gave in chorus three excruciating cheers from their 
steam-pipes, the force of whose sound half deafened 
the assembled crowd, many of whom would have sac- 
rificed a month's wages rather than have missed a sight 
of the Prince. He appeared at one of the windows 
and acknowledged the compliment thus paid him by 
the firemen, and the people went home satisfied, and 
new faces took the place of old ones. 

His Royal Highness and suite left St. Louis soon 
after eight. 

When I arrived at the railway station in Cincinnati, 
at ten, T found it crowded with people, who were all 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 17T 

in a state of anxious expectation. For the last hund- 
red miles of the journey the stations had been more or 
less filled with the same eager expectants of the ap- 
proach of royalty. I had, however, ascertained two 
hours previously that, owing to the break down of a 
freight train, the progress of the royal one had been 
impeded, and that the illustrious party were wait- 
ing at Vincennes, the place at which it had been ar- 
ranged that they were to lunch, till the track was 
cleared . 

A dispatch was received at the hotel at ten, announc- 
ing that the royal train would not arrive till two A.M., 
and at that hour it arrived accordingly. 

To me " Porkopolis'^ is as the face of an old friend ; 
for, years ago, I traversed its streets, and sailed down 
the bright and rolling waters of the swift Ohio. With 
its two" hundred and sixty thousand inhabitants, it is 
the largest capital of the Mississippi region, the 
grand emporium of western commerce, and the fifth in 
importance and extent in the whole Union, I have 
ascended the hills that environ the three-mile valley 
in which the city is situated, and there gazed upon its 
spires and domes and the pleasant scenery of Ken- 
tucky on the opposite shore of the river. 1 have wit- 
nessed the unpoetical operation of pig-killing in its 
water-side slaughter-houses, where the swinish herd 
were converted into barreled pork by steam in a space 
of time almost shockingly short. And I have otherwise 
explored the ins and outs of the big town which, less 
than eighty years ago, was a mere village in the wil- 
derness, with a white population of less than a hund- 
red. It is, perhaps, a work of supererogation to say 
that swine were, and still are to some extent, to Cin- 
cinnati what dogs are to Constantinople and buzzards 
to Lima — namely, very useful scavengers. These wan- 
dering pigs are the remnants of droves or " acres," 
and being considered municipal property are allowed 
to wallow about the suburbs till the time comes when, 



178 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

according to periodical custom, they are sold by auc- 
tion, caught, and cut up. 

On the next morning, Saturday, the Prince and suite, 
escorted by the Mayor, left the hotel in open carriages 
and visited the chief points of interest in and around 
the city, the drive culminating on Clifton Heights 
where the party aliglited at tlie residence of Mr. R. 
B. Bowler, who is not only sole proprietor of the 
Kentucky Central Railroad, but a gentleman cele- 
brated for the unique and costly splendor of his man- 
sion, wliich may be called the Yathek of America. 
Here Mr. Bowler had the honor of entertaining the 
illustrious travelers at luncheon, after which the drive 
was resumed. 

In the evening there was a ball at the Opera House, 
the less I say about which the better it will please 
those concerned. 

St. John's Church was the centre of attraction on the 
Sunday, and I am afraid the eyes of the congregation 
wandered from their Bibles to the face of Albert Ed- 
ward more than could have been justified. 

Early on the following morning the " Baron '' and 
his friends left by special train for Pittsburg, and 
arrived tliere on the same evening. They were re- 
ceived by the Mayor and a committee of citizens at 
the railway station, and conducted across an illumin- 
ated brido'c to the Mononc^ahela House. 



TUE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 179 



CHAPTER XXI. 

From Pittsburg to Harrisburg — Over the Mountains — Fast Traveling 
of the Prince — A Mistake — His Royal Highness in Harrisburg — The 
Ladies and their Affections— The Arrival in Baltimore— The Enthu- 
siasm — The Reception in Washington — Republican Simplicity, etc. 

After the four hundred torches had died out on the 
bridge, the Prince was serenaded by the Duquesne 
Grays, who had met him on his arrival at Alleghany 
City. The front of the hotel was at the same time 
illuminated with gas jets, and the crowd of spectators 
numbered several thousands. The cross of St. George 
and the stars and stripes swayed to and fro from lines 
spanning the street, and notwithstanding the wet the 
enthusiasm of the people was very great. The popular 
expectation ran in favor of His Royal Highness pre- 
senting himself to the admiring audience on the bal- 
cony, but the expectation remained unrealized, for the 
future King of England wisely partook of dinner and 
went to bed at an early hour. 

At half-past eleven the entire party entered a long 
file of carriages, and drove by a circuitous route to the 
Pennsylvania Railway Station. The crowd near the 
hotel was as large as on the previous evening, and the 
streets through which the cortege passed were lined 
with spectators, who cheered and shouted as the pro- 
cession passed. It was a source of much disappoint- 
ment to some of the citizens that His Royal Highness 
did not visit the rolling-mills, at Birmingham, on the 
opposite side of the Ohio, the coal mines, and other 
places of industrial interest. 

On arriving at the station, the Grays, who were 
ready to receive the party, cleared a passage where 
the Prince alighted. 



180 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

As the train moved away there was a grand rush 
through the broken lines of the Grays, and the five 
thousand surged alongside and over the platforms of 
the cars with semi-frantic enthusiasm, cheering and 
shouting and waving their liats as they went. The 
Prince, meanwhile, stood on the rear platform, bowing 
to the salutations and smiling at the tumult. 

The weather, although not rainy, was dull, and the 
ground wet. But the worst feature of all Pittsburg 
was the smoke, which filled the streets and every- 
body in them. The city may well be called the Bir- 
mingham of America, which is the dirtiest town in 
England. 

The two hundred and eighty miles' ride from Pitts- 
burg to Harrisburg was one of much interest, and 
occupied nearly ten hours in its performance. The 
beautiful scenery of the Alleghany Mountains refreshed 
the eye mile after mile, hour after hour, as the iron 
horse careered on its way. There was a pleasing 
blending of the rugged and the smooth. The finest 
view lay on the left, till we passed with a rumbling 
rush through the 3612 feet long tunnel, which has been 
bored through the solid rock. We were at this time 
two thousand two hundred feet above the level of the 
sea. The Juniata River, a tributary of the Susque- 
hanna, and a lengthy stretch of canal, kept us company 
over a portion of the line, and varied the aspect of the 
majestic prospect. The mountains now lay on our 
riglit, here and there streaked with the rays of the 
sinking sun ; but a gathering mist soon hid them from 
our view, and, night following quickly after, entirely 
shrouded the glorious scene. Give me a bright sun- 
ny day in spring for a ride through the AUeghanies. 
Gloom and darkness become them not. 

There are as beautiful spots in the AUeghanies as 
the White Mountains, but they are less known to fame, 
and the wants of the traveler are here but little at- 
tended to, which is in itself a formidable drawback in. 



THE PRINCE OP WALES IN AMERICA. 181 

the eyes of even the most devoted admirer of romantic 
beauty in the world. 

Fertile valleys with a mountain background are ever 
fine landscape features, and the valleys of the Allegha- 
nies are pre-eminently so. 

At the village of Gallitzin, beautifully secluded in a 
small recess of the Mountains, the train stopped, the 
door of the Prince's car opened, and that illustrious 
scion of the reigning family of England emerged there- 
from, and, accompanied by his equerries ^nd two or 
three others of the suite, ascended the locomotive. 

No sooner was this done tlian the train was once 
more set in motion, and away over the summit of the 
mountains flew the fire-fed monster, rounding the rapid 
descent at Kittaning Point, and revealing at every 
bend some new feature in the magnificent prospect for 
the delectation of its riders. The moon shed her placid 
beams upon the delicious and tranquil scene, and as 
the steam-horse plunged down the valley of the Juniata 
the view was one of the highest fascination. The river 
glistened like molten silver, every tree stood out in 
bold relief on the hill sides, the crags looked naked, 
the grass green, the foliage sombre, the elevations 
grand, the steeps lovely, and insensibly the poetry of 
the hour worked its influence upon the mind of the 
spectator. 

At Altoona the party alighted and re-entered the 
cars, and so this pleasant incident ended. 

It was no joke, but real hard work, this traveling 
with the Prince. In this respect he may be considered 
about the fastest young man of the age, and presents 
a singular contrast to the torpidity of some of his mas- 
culine ancestors, who, if it were possible to awaken 
them from their graves and tell them the history of 
Victoria's eldest son, would return some such answer 
as " You may tell that to the marines, but the sailors 
won't believe it," for before those fellows died, steam- 
ers and railways were undreamed of, and the winds 



.4^ 



182 

of heaven and the sinews of horses were alone trusted 
to in the performance of a journey. But time works 
changes, and history proclaims the rest. 

I will glance at Harrisburg, where at the hotel I 
resigned myself to slumber, and awoke to find a large 
crowd in front of my room window. I drew aside the 
curtain, when, lo ! a thousand voices exclaimed aloud, 
" There he is!" and fingers were pointed like bayonets 
at my diminished head — for what could it be but oi- 
minished after that, and what better could I do than 
hide it? I did so, and proceeded to dress, reflecting 
meanwhile upon the circumstance of my having been, 
for the moment, mistaken for the gentleman in the 
next room but one, who at some future period (God 
willing) will ascend the throne of England and be- 
come the nominal ruler of a great people. 

At nine o'clock tlie Prince and suite, having previ- 
ously breakfasted, drove in open carriages to the State 
House, from tlie roof of which a splendid view of the 
city is obtainable. There you see the silent Susque- 
hanna, coiled like a serpent in a garden, and spotted 
with flowery islets. You have that pleasant antithe- 
sis afforded by an intermingling of hill and valley, 
mirror-like glimpses of water, verdure, forest, and a 
town with eleven thousand inhabitants, and after the 
survey of the prospect you return to terra Jirma, feel- 
ing well repaid for the trouble incurred in ascending 
the steps. 

The Mayor, crowned with a hat contrasting in its 
shallowness with the shiny length of the "stove-pipe" 
sombreros worn by the royal party, sat beside the 
Prince, and opposite them sat His Grace the Duke of 
Newcastle and Lord Lyons. The committee of citizens 
followed the suite in other carriages. 

There was great anxiety manifested by all to get a 
sight of the British lion, and a hot pursuit of the car- 
riages was the result. This made the way cheerful 
and dusty, and enabled the illustrious guests to over- 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 183 

hear the remarks of tlie people as to their appearance 
and the like, which, however, only tended to convince 
tliem that they were all good-looking fellows, partic- 
ularl}' Albert Edward, with whom all the ladies ap- 
peared to have fallen desperately in love, notwith- 
standing the improbability of that love being ever re- 
turned. 

At twenty minutes past nine (" Bless me, how ex- 
act you are!" exclaims my conscience,) the vehicles 
found their way to the railway station, and the royal 
party into the cars of the special train of the Northern 
Central Railway Company, which started immediately 
afterwards, in the presence of three or four hundred 
spectators, who cast one last, long, lingering look after 
us as we — that is to say the train — receded from their 
vision. 

The scenery after starting, embracing the Susque- 
hanna River, which looked like a miniature lake of the 
Tliousand Islands, was very picturesque, and so were 
two young women in sliort frocks, wlio stood on a hill- 
side waving towels or pocket-handkerchiefs for the 
gratification of royal eyes, wdiich saw and sparkled as 
they glanced. 

At every station there was a crowd proportionate 
to the number of inhabitants, notwithstanding the slen- 
der hopes of seeing tlie object of so much popular curi- 
osity and esteem. Baltimore, however, dimmed every 
preceding daylight ovation in the States. Along the 
track on either side, the ground was packed with hu- 
man forms, but in front of the platform where the car 
wheels ceased their revolutions, the concourse was as 
dense as pushing could make it. 

A capital brass band played " God save the Queen," 
and followed up the performance with several other 
tunes as His Royal Highness stepped from the car, and 
exchanged a shake of the hand with the Mayor of the 
city, tlie British Consul, and the members of a commit- 
tee of citizens, amid the cheers of the assembled thou- 



184 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

sands. Everybody seemed disposed to climb on some- 
body else's shoulders as the Prince, the Duke, Lord 
Lyons, and otliers of the suite stood conversing and 
smiling with those who had just welcomed them to the 
city. Tlie fineness of the weather enhanced the pleas- 
ure of the spectators, and lent a radiant beauty to the 
picture, natural though it was, and free of everything 
bizarre. 

After a few minutes' delay, it being now a quarter 
past one, the party entered the carriages in waiting — 
the police, meanwhile, having great difficulty in keep- 
ing the multitude even partially in check, so as to al- 
low of a passage sufficient for an individual to struggle 
through. 

The Mayor sat beside the Prince, according to inva- 
riable usage, and the cortege drove to the Camden 
Station of the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad. The 
thoroughfares through which the carriages passed 
were lined with citizens, and thousands followed behind 
and alongside, cheering and waving hats, caps, and 
newspapers ; while ladies, with fluttering pocket-hand- 
kerchiefs, eyed tlie great hero of the day with intense 
delight, which subsided into regret as he disappeared 
from their view. Alas ! that these young ladies should 
have been born to Avish for what they could never 
have. 

The crowd at the other station was very large as 
the royal party aliglited from their carriages and took 
leave of the Mayor and citizens till their return, after 
which the special train moved onward towards Wash- 
ington, where we arrived, without incident, at four 
o'clock. General Cass was on the platform to receive 
His Royal Highness, and, on being introduced by Lord 
Lyons, shook hands with him very warmly. He then 
welcomed him to the United States in a few words, 
and introduced the Private Secretary of the Presi- 
dent, Mayor Berret, Mr. Ledyard, and a few others, 
with each of whom the Prince exchanged a cordial 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 185 

greeting. He was then conducted to the President's 
carriage, in waiting, in which General Cass took his 
seat beside him. The suite having been seated in 
other private equipages, all drove away towards the 
White House. 

The sides of Pennsylvania Avenue were thickly 
studded with men, women, and children, and in the 
road fronting the White House there was another 
large gathering. ^^'~^ 

He was received at the threshold of the White 
House by President Buchanan, who looked as com- 
posed as usual. He shook him by the hand in the 
most fatherly manner imaginable, and like one who 
knew his guest well. It was just such a hearty wel- 
come as a rich ojd bachelor uncle would give to the 
nephew he intended to make his heir. Tliere was, 
consequently, no mistake about its sincerity. 

Of course, it was not long before he introduced his 
niece. Miss Lane, to his illustrious guest, and the blush 
of beauty stole across her features as she echoed the 
old man's greeting, more inwardly, however, than 
aloud. 

In the course of an hour after this, the grounds of 
the White House presented a gay scene. The Presi- 
dent, with the Prince and suite, and nearly a hundred 
ladies and gentlemen, composed of the elite of Wash- 
ington society, were out walking and enjoying the 
pleasures of fresh air, a fine view and cheerful conver- 
sation. Meanwhile, the boys and girls from the back 
streets were enjoying their part in the world's great 
show, by grinning at them through the gate railings 
and other places in the distance, which latter, no 
doubt, lent enchantment to the view. 

Dinner followed at the Presidential mansion, the 
company, in addition to the royal party, consisting of 
Cabinet Ministers and their wives. Lord Lyons and 
his first Secretary of Legation, and two or three 
others. 



186 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

It was about eleven on the next morning when the 
Prince, accompanied by Lord Lyons, Secretary Floyd, 
and others, drove up to the eastern front of tlie Capi- 
tol, where lie was received by the architect and chief 
engineer of tlie public works, and by them conducted 
over the building. First they visited the library, from 
which they passed by a private staircase to the Senate 
Chamber and the committee-rooms, and thence to the 
rotunda, where the beautiful paintings hung round its 
magnificent interior attracted their especial attention. 
The history of Pocahontas was inquired into, and even 
the " Surrender of Lord Cornwallis" became a theme 
of pleasant conversation. From this they proceeded 
through the old hall of the House of Representatives 
to the new hall of the House, where the sides occupied 
by the administration and opposition members were 
pointed out, and much general information afforded in 
answer to their queries. The Speaker's room was 
next entered, then the Agricultural and other rooms, 
the Naval and Military Committee apartments and 
offices of the Senate. The party then viewed the Cap- 
itol grounds from the portico of the east front, and, 
descending the steps after half an hour's stay, drove 
back to the White House, where, at noon, the doors 
were thrown open for the President's reception in 
honor of the Prince of Wales. 

I went in with the crowd of ladies and gentlemen, 
nearly all of whom were in their usual morning dress, 
a few military and naval uniforms excepted. Such a 
flutter of crinoline never was seen in the Presidential 
Mansion before, such a glistening of bright eyes, all 
having the one object in view ; such a busy murmur 
of women's voices, all bearing upon the one theme, and 
that theme the Prince of Wales, who stood almost 
within hearing in tlie east room, and on the right of 
the President. 

I need not mention how Mr. Buchanan was dressed, 
for he was perhaps never seen either at breakfast, din- 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 187 

ner, or supper, in any other costiinic than a black dress 
suit and white necktie ; but I may say that the Prince 
appeared in the same colored clothes that he wore 
during the morning. 

It was evidently wonderfully new to His Royal 
Highness to see such familiarity between ruler and 
subject as he did on this occasion. It was contrary 
to his ideas of a levee for ladies to attend, especially 
when they all came up smiling in their bonnets, and 
said, "How are you, Mr. Buchanan?" at the same 
time extending their hands for the old gentleman to 
shake, which he did with his usual warmth and frank- 
ness, so much so that if he had exclaimed to those he 
knew best, " Bless me, Betsey, how well you're look- 
ing," it would have created but little surprise on the 
part of Albert Edward. 

The host of the White House stood on the eastern 
window side of the room, but not far from its centre, 
and very soon the apartment, extensive as it is, became 
uncomfortably crowded, and the Prince showed signs 
of weariness of the reception before it had progressed 
half an liour. Many of the ladies and some of the gen- 
tlemen extended their hands to him after exchanging I 
a cordial shake with the President, and this His Royal j 
Highness evidently felt to be a great bore, although \ 
politeness compelled him to submit to it with a show J 
of pleasure. --^ 

The reception did not last an hour, and many that 
arrived at one o'clock were too late for presentation, 
although most of them succeeded in obtaining a glimpse 
of him standing near the central window of the man- 
sion, where he engaged in conversation with Mr. Bu- 
chanan and his suite. 

After luncheon the Prince and party, including Miss 
Lane, drove to the Patent-office; where they inspected 
the Japanese collection, the autographs of celebrated 
persons, and other curiosities, in addition to the mod- 
els, plans, and such like, for which the building is 



188 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

mainly intended. From this the lady of the White 
House took her royal guest to — what will his mother 
and the people of England say ? — a young ladies' acad- 
emy, where he, the future King of England, played 
ten-pins for two hours with Miss Lane herself and her 
friends. This A\^as a fine afternoon amusement, cer- 
tainly, and no doubt will long be remembered both by 
the Prince of Wales and all the young ladies present 
on the occasion. 

At half-past six, thirty-five sat down to dinner at 
the White House, the guests being chiefly the foreign 
ministers at Washington. In the evening about six 
hundred ladies and gentlemen were present by invita- 
tion, and at half-past nine the much-talked of fire- 
works began, and lasted hardly half an hour. The 
sky pieces were very brilliant, notwithstanding tlie 
misty atmosphere and a drizzling rain that fell. Fount- 
ains of flame played without intermission for more 
than a minute in the air, and floods of crimson and 
golden light were let loose in the heavens with a re- 
sult that was gorgeous in the extreme. 

Five sixths of the population of Washington and its 
suburbs were on the ground when the last piece — a 
frame-work device, including the arms of England and 
the United States, with symbols and mottoes, and the 
figures of Columbia and Britannia — blazed out upon 
the view with a splendor not to be depicted in words. 

During the whole time of this pyrotechnical display 
the President and his royal guest, together with as 
many of the six hundred as could find standing room 
under the rear portico, were witnesses of it. 

When the last lights had died away there was a tre- 
mendous rush towards the gates leading into Penn- 
sylvania Avenue, and down that wide thoroughfare 
there poured, for more than an hoar, a torrent of hu- 
man beings, carriages, and omnibuses, such as the 
Federal Metropolis never saw before. 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 189 



CHAPTER XXII. 

The Priuce's Visit to Mount Vernon—Tlie Trip of the Royal Party 
and Hosts down the Potomac— Arrival at Mount Vernon— The 
Prince evinces a deep Interest in the History of Washington— He 
Plants a Tree in Commemoration of his Visit — He Pockets some 
Horse-Chestnuts, which he intends to Plant in Windsor Park— The 
Return Trip—The Quarter-Deck of the Revenue Cutter Devoted to 
the Disciples of Terpsichore—The Prince at Richmond, etc. 

The most interesting event connected with the 
Prince of Wales' progress through the United States 
was the visit, with President Buchanan to the Tomb 
of Washington, of which it has been truly said : 

There rests the man, the flower of human kind, 
Whose visage mild bespoke his nobler mind ; 
There rests the soldier who his sword ne'er drew 
But in a righteous cause, to freedom true 5 
There rests the hero, who ne'er fought for fame, 
Yet gained more glory than a Cresar's name ; 
There rests the statesman who, devoid of art. 
Gave soundest counsel from an upright heart. 
And, Oh ! Columbia, by thy sons caressed, 
There rests the Father of the realms he blessed, 
Who no wish felt to make his mighty praise. 
Like other chiefs, the means himself to raise ; 
But when retiring, breathed in pure renown, 
And felt a grandeur that disowned a crown. 

The party, in addition to Mr. Buchanan and the 
Prince and suite, consisted of Miss Lane, Mr. Cass, all 
the heads of departments and their wives and daugh- 
ters, and several others of less official note. The 
steamer in which they made the excursion was the 
Government cutter Harriet Lane. Only those of the 
royal and official party were admitted on board, not 
excepting the gentlemen of the press, for the worthy 
host of the White House had said, in reply to a ques 



190 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

tion bearing upon them, "No ; the press is to be sup- 
pressed on Ihis occasion." 

As the Prince and Miss Lane were passing from the 
carriage to the steamer, which lay at the foot of the 
Arsenal, amid the boom of a national salute, one of 
the officers of the establishment stepped forward and 
presented her with a bouquet, upon which she mirth- 
fully feigned to believe that it was intended for her 
companion, and offered it to him ; but Albert Edward, 
with his usual gallantry, laughed, and assured her that 
the flowers were for her, and she accepted the assur- 
ance and the bouquet accordingly. 

Then, at eleven o'clock, and all being on board, the 
paddle-wlieels flew round, while the last notes of " God 
save the Queen" were being played by the Marine Band 
on deck. Another national salute was fired, and the 
flags with which the rigging was dressed fluttered 
gayly in the sunshine and the breeze as the vessel 
glided through the glistening waters of the Potomac 
towards Mount Vernon. 

The beauty of the weather enhanced the yet rarer 
beauty of the scenery, through which the winding 
stream coursed so calmly that hardly a ripple broke 
its mirror-like surface. On either hand the dark 
green foliage of the woods enframed it, save where the 
spires and chimneys of Alexandria rose on the right. 
Some small steamers and sailing craft lay at its wharf, 
and were dressed in honor of the passing guest. Con- 
versation filled up the time during which the sixteen 
miles from Washington were run, and the Prince de- 
clared it a delightful sail. The steamer anchored. 
The party went ashore in small boats, and were met 
on the platform by Mr. John A. Washington, who con- 
ducted them to the tomb, on arrivins^ at which the band 
played the dirge " Trovatore," the solemn and impres- 
sive strains of which added a singular- eftect to the 
scene. 

All present felt they were standing on hallowed 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 191 

ground. Around them was the deep wooded dell in 
which venerable oaks spread tlieir brawny arms over 
luxuriant shrubbery, extending to the water's side. 
Before them was the mausoleum — an arched vault, sur- 
rounded by a brick wall, with a pointed arch and 
double gates of iron railings opening into the outer 
chamber, in which were two marble sarcophagi, on 
each of which rested a slab ; tlie one to the right bear- 
ing the inscription, " Within this inclosure rest the re- 
mains of General George Washington," and the other, 
" Martha, wife of Washington." 

The Prince made several remarks appreciative of 
the glorious character of the man whose death was de- 
plored by his country and whose deeds and history are 
imperishable. He expressed a willingness to plant a 
tree on the spot in commemoration of his visit, and, 
some horse-chestnuts having been handed to him, he 
stooped down and placed them in the earth. He 
afterwards put a few more in his pocket with the 
intention as he said, of planting them in Windsor 
Park on liis return home as another memento of a 
visit which he should ever regard with feelings of 
peculiar interest. 

From the tomb the company bent their steps towards 
the house of Washington — a long, two-storied wooden 
building facing the river, and with two wings stand- 
ing at right angles to it and connected with the main 
part by open corridors, while tlie entrance in tlie court, 
formed by the wings, Avas flanked by a row of negro 
huts and other out-buildings in the rear. This was 
only thirty yards distant, and approached by a path 
across the grounds. 

For more than two hours the illustrious visitors con- 
tinued their stay, during the whole time of which they 
were occupied in visiting and inquiring into the sur- 
roundings of tlie interesting spot. They then returned 
by boats to the steamer, where a dejeuner was at once 
served ; after which, by general consent, there was a 



192 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ] OR, 

dance on deck, the speed of the vessel being reduced 
at His Royal Highness' suggestion, in order to prolong 
the pleasure. 

Then flying feet tripped to the swell of music, and 
eyes looked love to eyes which spake again, as Byron 
said of the ball at Brussels. 

It was more than half-past five when the Harriet 
Lane touched the wharf at the Navy Yard, where 
private carriages were in waiting for the fortunate 
few. 

A salute was fired in honor of the return, and soon 
afterwards the cortege created a sensation on Pennsyl- 
vania Avenue, which attracted long lines of spectators. 
A crowd on foot, on horseback, and in vehicles, also 
kept pace with the procession in the middle of the 
road. 

At eight the Prince and suite, the Marquis of Chan- 
dos, and others, dined with Lord Lyons at his residence, 
and on Saturday morning His Royal Highness took 
leave of the President, his niece, and others, with regret 
and many assurances of the pleasure he had derived 
from his stay at the Federal Metropolis and White 
House. 

He then left Wasliington, accompanied by the mem- 
bers of the Cabinet, on board the Harriet Lane, at a 
few minutes past ten, under a salute from the Arsenal 
and amid the cheers of crowds collected at the river- 
side. 

After a sail of fifty-five miles down the picturesque 
stream, he landed at Acquia Creek, on the Virginia 
shore, from which he proceeded by the special train in 
waiting to the capital of the Old Dominion. 

The multitude that congregated at every station on 
the way was surprisingly large, but Richmond itself, 
in the eager demonstration of its assembled thousands, 
eclipsed every other place the Prince had visited. 

The Mayor and a committee of citizens were in wait- 
ing to receive him at the Fair Grounds Railway Station, 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 193 

two miles out of town, on his arrival, which took place 
about six; but owing to the immense crowd at the 
Exchange Hotel, where he quartered, it was seven 
o'clock before he entered his rooms, and then only 
after struggling through a swaying mass tliat, not only 
filled the adjoining streets, but all the approaches to his 
apartments. It was not till some hours had elapsed 
that curiosity abated sufficiently to clear the neighbor- 
hood of the multitude anxious to see tlie heir apparent 
to the British throne, wlien all was as tranquil as usual 
in this quiet-going old city. 

Like good Christians, the Prince and his suite went 
to St. Paul's Church on the Sunday, and I occupied a 
pew next— but twenty-one— to His Royal Highness. 
The congregation was large and fashionable, and, of 
course, there was the usual display of crinoline, kid 
gloves, and pretty bonnets, and the usual flutter among 
the ladies of tlie Old Dominion. Indeed, the lady 
members of the congregation were in a delightful state 
of excitement from the arrival to the departure of 
Albert Edward of Wales, who has been the object of 
many of the most endearing expressions I have ever 
heard, from cradledom up to the present moment. 
But let me not tell tales. I have no wish to be an 
eavesdropper. 

The crowd that escorted him to church by fol- 
lowing his carriage afoot was only exceeded by the 
crowd that pursued him thence to the Capitol after 
the conclusion of the ordinary service. He was ac- 
companied at this time only by tlie Duke of Newcastle, 
Lord Lyons, and the Mayor of the city. 

They were received on arriving by the Governor 
of the State, who conducted them, first, into the Hall 
of Delegates, where an old arm-chair, formerly that of • 
the Speaker of the House of Burgesses, while this 
country was a British colony, was pointed out to 
them ; also the full length portraits, in oil, of the 
Earl of Chatham, in a Roman toga, and Thomas 
9 



194 

Jefferson, which were originally bequeathed to the 
comity of Westmoreland, and by the county given to 
Virginia. Here the crowd surrounded the royal party, 
and it was with difficulty that the few composing it 
passed into the rotunda, the multitude surging after 
them in their exuberance of good feeling. 

The marble statue of Washington, by Houdon, in 
the centre of this, first attracted their attention. 

A marble bust of Lafayette filled one of the eight 
niches of the surrounding wall, the other seven being 
empty. 

The Senate chamber was next entered, a stream of 
men and boys pouring in at the same time. They 
then descended the steps to the portico, from which, 
owing to the Capitol being situated on an elevated 
plain near the summit of Shockhoe Hill, a wide and 
picturesque view presented itself. The course of the 
James River was there traceable for miles, and a com- 
plete panorama of the city, with all its hill and dale, 
riveted the eye. 

From this point Richmond had a far more impos- 
ing effect than as viewed from any other portion of 
the city. The approach by river, however, commands 
a still finer prospect ; but this vanishes like mirage 
as the vessel draws alongside the wharf, where all is 
prosaic black and white. And now His Royal High- 
ness stepped a hundred yards into the Governor's 
house, where several of the family and friends of the 
latter were presented. 

Ten minutes elapsed before the visitors drove back 
to the hotel, followed by a rushing mass of people. 

After luncheon, the Prince, the Mayor, and several 
of the suite drove to the Holywood Cemetery, a mile 
out of town, where, at the monument ejected over the 
grave of Monroe, the party halted in silence. 

They subsequently visited St. John's Church, where 
Patrick Henry and Richard Henry Lee once declaimed 
in front of what is now the communion table. A sub- 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 195 

urban drive followed, and they returned home to din- 



ner. 



The Prince and suite drove to the railway station, 
accompanied by the Mayor, at nine o'clock on the next 
morning, and left by a special train. 

Soon after the royal party had taken leave of the 
Mayor and committee, and the train was set in motion, 
a violent rain-storm set in, accompanied with viyid 
flashes of lightning, which had the effect of thinning 
the number of spectators along the road. By the time 
the train reached Petersburg, the birth-place of Wash- 
ington, sixty miles from Richmond, the rain had ceased, 
an'd the day promised fair again. Sixteen miles fur- 
ther on was the Acquia Creek Terminus, where the 
party alighted, and, after a short delay, embarked on 
the steamer Powhatan, which had been specially char- 
tered for this service. Owing to several inlets, the 
waters of the Potomac here assumed a lake-like spread, 
and this, with the many indentations of the wooded 
shore, had a highly picturesque effect, and the eye lin- 
gered long in contemplation of its beauty. 

On went the steamer, an Irishman on the wharf ex- 
claiming to the Prince as she started, " May luck go 
wid you. And, bedad, I only wish I'd an ould shoe 
to fling afther yez, for its not the likes of yez as come 

here every day." ,r . ^r i 

A glimpse of the house at Mount V ernon, almost 
embowered in foliage, was succeeded by a full view 
of Fort Washington. 

The special train which conveyed the party from 
Washington to Baltimore, arrived at the station short- 
ly after eight o'clock. Tliey were met by the Mayor 
and some of the committee, who accompanied them to 
the Gilmor House, under an escort of the City Guard 
and Independent Grays, the bands of which executed 
some spirited music by the way, commencing with 
" God save the Queen." 

A large concourse had assembled at the station, and 



196 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

there was much enthusiastic shouting. Thousands 
followed the procession to the hotel, where another 
great crowd had been long in waiting. 

Dinner followed, then a serenade and sleep. 



CHAPTER XXIII. 

The Departure from Baltimore, and Arrival at Philadelphia — Enthu- 
siasm of the People— Quarters of the Prince at the Continental — 
He occupies the same Rooms as did the Japanese Princes — Inci- 
dents, etc. 

Shortly before eleven, His Royal Highness and 
party left the hotel in open carriages, accompanied by 
the Mayor, and enjoyed a pleasant drive on their way 
to the railway station. Among the objects of interest 
they passed were the two hundred feet Doric column 
of the Washington Monument, on Mount Yernon place, 
and the marble column of the Battle Monument, in 
memory of those who fell while defending the city in 
1814. 

A fragment of the great crowd that had gathered in 
front of the hotel, ran after the carriages for a consid- 
erable distance. Passers-by halted, and so lined the 
streets as the carriages were seen approaching, and 
the curiosity of the people was only equaled by their 
evident respect. 

On reaching the railway station, where several thou- 
sands had assembled to see the party step from their 
carriages — the general public being debarred admis- 
sion inside — His Royal Highness was received by a 
guard of lionor of the Independent Grays, the band 
of which struck up " God save the Queen," with much 
spirit. 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 197 

The Prince and noblemen and gentlemen of the suite, 
having taken a kind leave of the Mayor and members 
of the committee, to whom they expressed the pleasure 
their visit to Baltimore had afforded them, entered the 
royal car, Avhich, preceded by one containing the at- 
tendants, moved away towards the Quaker City, m 
the midst of enthusiastic cheering from those on the 
platform. The numbers gathered at the wayside sta- 
tions were few, compared with other places I could 
name, and even in Philadelphia itself the popular 
demonstration was slight; but this was all the more 
agreeable to His Royal Highness. The Susquehanna 
Kiver, which was crossed on the usual ferry steamer, 
revived recollections of Harrisburg where it was first 
sighted. The weather was fine, and the journey de- 
void of more than ordinary incident. 

On the arrival of the special train at the station, 
soon after four o'clock, the Prince was met by the 
Mayor, who welcomed him to the city in a few words. 
The members of the suite were severally introduced 
after this, when the Mayor conducted His Royal High- 
ness to one of the carriages in waiting, and taking his 
seat beside him, with Lord Lyons and the Duke of 
Newcastle opposite, the party drove directly to the 
Continental Hotel. 

All was quiet till the arrival at the hotel, where a 
large crowd had collected. Owing, however, to the 
royal carriage having been driven to the Ninth Street 
entrance, instead of the private one on Chestnut Street, 
as was expected, very few became aware of its arrival 
till the occupants had entered the house. 

There was a general feeling of disappointment after 
this, and the multitude remained for hours gazing up- 
wards towards the windows of the apartments occu- 
pied by the distinguished travelers. 

These were the same that were devoted to the use of 
the Japanese Ambassadors. The Prince's bedroom 
was the one in which that bamboo-complexioned indi- 



198 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR. 



yidiial, Simmie Boojzen No-Kami, reclined his weary 
limbs, and the smallest and plainest of the entire suit. 

Those who suppose that His Royal Highness and 
suite dressed for dinner every day are mistaken. 
There was little ceremony observed in this respect, 
and the only peculiarity about the royal dining and 
sitting rooms was in the long, red, white, and blue wax 
candles which were invariably to be seen burning on 
the tables during the hours of gaslight. 

The chief event of the next morning was a drive, 
and this proved to be a very long one. 

Mayor Henry accompanied the party, and visit 
number one was paid to Girard College, where a large 
crowd had collected, and they were received by the 
President and the Directors. The schools were in 
session, and tlie scholars hard at work, as at the time 
of the visit of the Japanese. But the boys and girls 
did not lose the opportunity of enjoying a good look 
at the illustrious visitors, and particularly one of them, 
as they passed through. 

The Prince smiled and displayed his usual affability, 
while to several he addressed a few words of congrat- 
ulation. From the school-rooms they were conducted 
to the front of the President's house, where that esti- 
mable functionary made the .best of the occasion by pre- 
senting some horse-chestnuts to His Royal Highness 
and asking him to plant them ; " for," said he, " a tree 
so grown may serve to tell the recipients of the bounty 
of Girard of your visit." 

The future King of England complied accordingly, 
with the assistance of a gardener, who, as it happened, 
marched in the procession in London in honor of the 
coronation of Queen Victoria. This was told to the 
Prince, who crammed it into his mental bread-basket, 
along with many other similar incidents which have 
occurred during his present tour. 

Of course, in visiting the College, they could not 
omit its roof, for from that point of elevation a pano- 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 199 

rama of the city unfolds itself, with the Delaware and 
the country around visible in the distance. 

With this end in view they ascended a succession of 
narrow and dimly lighted steps, and finally put their 
heads out into clear daylight at the top. 

The roof was broad and nearly flat, and formed of 
squares of stone lapped over each other after the 
fashion of tiles. 

Unfortunately, as the party were admiring the view, 
the wind, which blew rather fresh at the time, lifted 
the hat off the royal head and sent it flying from stone 
to stone, till it fell over into the garden beneath. This 
was awkward, but the young man bore it calmly, and 
when somebody near (it was one of the committee) 
offered the loan of his own in its place, Albert Edward 
gratefully accepted the favor, and became the wearer 
of the borrowed hat till his own was brought up from 
the regions below. 

I consider this last incident as quite a feather in the 
cap of the eldest son of Mr. Buchanan's " good friend," 
and she is good, which is more than we can say of all 
crowned heads. 

From the College the party went to the Eastern 
Penitentiary, a building from which radiate seven 
wings, in which the cells are built. The central 
building was crowded with ladies and gentlemen, who 
had come in anticipation of the visit. Many of these 
were introduced to him by the prison authorities, upon 
which the usual hands-shaking took place. 

The party were afterwards conducted through the 
wards, during which the Prince inquired after the cell 
alluded to by Charles Dickens, in his "American 
Notes," as having been entirely and beautifully paint- 
ed by a German sentenced to five years' imprisonment 
for larceny. Dickens had an interview with this man, 
whom he described as the most dejected, heart-broken, 
wretched creature it would be possible to imagine. 
Before leaving the institution the party inscribed 



200 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD 



tlieir names in the visitors' book, tlie Prince simply 
signing Albert Edward, in a small, neat liand. No 
sooner had he turned his back upon the writing than 
there was a rush of ladies, anxious to scan the " dear 
fellow's " penmanship, which, as a matter of course, 
they pronounced exquisite. 

Still another corridor was visited after this, and 
there the Prince entered into conversation with one 
Judge Yondersmith, who deported himself with the 
utmost nonchalance. He was a miserable-looking 
man, in a tight-fitting suit of blue woolen, and as he 
stood in his gloomy square cell both his position and 
prospects afforded a striking contrast to the young 
man with whom he conversed. Alas ! that society 
should present sucli inequalities. 

I saw one of the unhappy creatures there incarcer- 
ated burst into tears as the Prince took his departure. 

The party tlien went to the Asylum for the Insane, 
where one of the lunatics danced a jig in celebration 
of so unusual an event. From this to the Park was 
but a short drive, and here the lovers of the picturesque 
enjoyed a refreshing view, embracing a beautiful extent 
of timbered and grass land, with the Schuylkill River 
winding in the foreground and a glimpse of the city 
and the Delaware to the right. The weather was clear 
and sunny to a deliglitful degree ; and as the cortege 
neared the main building or hotel fronting the race- 
course, where a temporary platform had been erected 
for the accommodation of a more than ordinary number 
of visitors, in consequence of this anticipated visit, the 
scene was enlivened by the presence of thirty thousand 
people scattered about the course, but more particu- 
larly near the grand stand — if I may so call it. 

No sooner did the carriages appear in sight than a 
swarm set in around tlie building, and the uproar of 
voices filled the air. The men were equally eager 
with the women to get a glimpse of England's hope. 
On alighting the visitors proceeded, in tlie midst of a 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 201 

warm display of curiosity on the part of the collected 
thousands, to the northern part of the building allud 
ed to, where they were gazed upon by a battery of 
bright eyes from the opposite or southern point. 

Albert Edward's natural modesty recoiled before so 
embarrassing a spectacle ; but, eventually recovering, 
His Royal Highness beguiled the flying moments by 
turning a segar into smoke. At half-past two, gener- 
al attention was diverted from the contemplation of 
the Prince of Wales to the races, which were the os- 
tensible cause of so great an assemblage of the brave 
and fair. There was a sudden cry of " They're off!" 
and then there was one minute and forty-seven and a 
quarter seconds of suspense before the race was de- 
cided by " Rosa Bonneur" flying past the winning 
post, pursued by her competitors in a manner highly 
suggestive of that celebrated neck and crop race once 
run by Johnny Gilpin, of Cowper notoriety. The 
single mile handicap was won, and the winners were 
left to chuckle — for those may laugh who win, says 
the old song. 

The band, which had played on the arrival of the 
grandees, now struck up again, and a transplanted 
Irishman exclaimed, as he looked towards what had 
once more become the centre of attraction : " Arrah, 
bedad, and there he is," which was a fact. 

The Prince and party then stepped down to their 
carriages and drove away, a few cheers following them 
as they went. 

It was near six o'clock when they returned to the 
hotel, where a large crowd had gathered to see the 
lions, and many saw and felt rewarded for their toil. 

At five minutes past eight. His Royal Highness, the 
Duke of Newcastle, the Earl St. Germains, Lord Ly- 
ons, General Bruce, Major Teesdale, Captain Gray, 
Dr. Ackland, Lord Hinchinbrook, Hon. Mr. Eliot, 
Mr. Englehart, Mr. Warre, and Mr. Jenner, accompa- 
nied by the Mayor, entered their boxes at the Academy 



202 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

of Music. These boxes were two in number, and on 
opposite sides of the stage. Over the royal, or north 
proscenium balcony box, externally, were the arms of 
the United States and England, and the stars and 
stripes and union-jack, tastefully arranged. These 
were the only visible decorations of the royal box. 
But those in the boxes fronting it, had a glimpse of a 
vase of flowers and a silver ice pitcher, standing on a 
table with a marble top, in a luxurious divan lighted 
with a mellow radiance, which allowed fine scope for 
the imagination. 

As the royal party took their seats, the curtain rose, 
the band rose, the audience rose. 

The house, lighted by the hundred jets, sparkling 
in the glassy chandelier, had a brilliant appearance, 
so also had the stage, with its group of theatrical vil- 
lagers, foremost among whom stood Patti and Formes, 
the shrill soprano of the one breaking out with a sud- 
den thrill, to which the deep bass of the others was as 
thunder to lightning, the silence of the latter element 
excepted. 

Formes came in at the second part with the verses 
in honor of the Prince, composed for the occasion. 

The otliers joined in a grand chorus, the curtain 
dropped, and all sat down, while the gaze of the as- 
semblage fell upon the royal box, the occupants of 
which were in plain evening dress. 

The curtain again rose, and now upon the opening 
scene of Flotow's grand opera of " Martha." 

In the entree acte — the interval between the end of 
" Martha'^ and the opening of " La Traviata" — the 
Prince and other occupants of the royal box removed 
to the front seat of the first tier, which had just been 
vacated by the Marquis of Chandos, and friends. His 
Eoyal Highness beckoned to the others of his party 
in the opposite box, and they joined him. The cur- 
tain rose on a scene which rivaled the appearance of 
the finest ball-room of its size in the world. But what 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 203 

was the scene compared with the actors, and one es- 
pecially, Madame Pauline Colson ? She Avas bewitch- 
ing, and to my taste, she rivaled Piccolomini. There 
was a voluptuous grace about her acting, which car- 
ried with it fascination ; there was a melody in her 
song which was irresistible and carried away all hear- 
ers. Welcome, Madame Pauline Colson ! Violetta ha^ 
no choicer impersonation than thou. Signer Errani, 
as Alfredo, did well, and the masculine swell of his 
voice sounded well in response to the warbling music 
of Pauline, 

But what was all this to the scene itself— the chis- 
eled arms, the beaming faces, eyes included ; the cos- 
tumes, grand in the abstract, but faulty in detail ; the 
mass, the lights, the cause of all this — the Prince — the 
illuminated crimson of the proscenium box ? Every- 
body can imagine such a scene for themselves. There- 
fore, adieu. All ended well, and at the conclusion the 
Prince retired, well pleased with the performance. 



CHAPTER XXIV. 

New York's Glorious Welcome to the Prince— A Million on Broad- 
way and Fifth Avenue— Splendid Military Spectacle— The Review 
on the Battery and in the Park— Five Miles of Human Beings- 
Housetops, Brick Piles, Lamp-Posts, Windows, Steps, Awning- 
Posts, Doorways, Carriages, Boxes, Stages, Carts, Iron Railings, 
and Trees, from the Battery to Madison Square, Covered with Men, 
Women, and Children— The Diamond Ball— Grand Procession of 
Firemen, etc., etc. 

On the morning following the Opera, His Royal 
Highness and suite left Philadelphia by a special train 
for Amboy, where he embarked on board the U. S. 



204 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

steamer Harriet Lane, which the President had dis- 
patched for the purpose. There he was met by many 
of the New York Committee of four hundred citizens, 
who accompanied him to the city. Salvos of twenty- 
one guns were fired from Fort Hamilton and the other 
batteries, as the steamer passed, and on nearing Castle 
Garden salutes were also fired from the shipping, 
while the cheers of tens of thousands swelled in a joy- 
ous chorus of welcome, and great was the waving of 
hats, the flutter of handkerchiefs, and the display of 
bunting. 

On stepping ashore at half-past two. His Royal 
Highness was received by Mayor Wood, who wel- 
comed him cordially to the commercial metropolis, 
and after a little delay, introduced him to Major Gen- 
eral Sandford, commanding the First Division of the 
New York State Militia, who invited him to review 
the same, to which tlie Prince assented. He shortly 
afterwards made his appearance on horseback in full 
uniform, accompanied by his suite and the staff officers. 
He was received with all the military honors, ruffles, 
colors drooping, arms presented, and band playing. 
The troops numbered more than six thousand, and pre- 
sented a splendid appearance. The review was made 
by brigades numerically in succession, and as they 
were formed on different lines, the Prince had a fine 
opportunity of watching their entire movements. 

At tlie close of the^review His Royal Highness en- 
tered his carriage, whTch was drawn by six horses, and 
in company with his suite and the Mayor, preceded by 
a military column, was driven slowly towards the City 
Hall, followed by the troops in regular order. After 
alighting, they ascended a carpeted platform, and the 
troops marched past in the prearranged order. All, 
however, had not passed at ten minutes past five, by 
which time it was dusk. It was, therefore, thought 
advisable to cry " Halt I" and the carriages of the 
royal party were soon moving up Broadway, the 



THE PRINCE OP WALES IN AMERICA. 205 

Prince reviewing the troops formed in line as lie 
passed. The acclamations that, thenceforward to the 
Fifth Avenue Hotel, rent the air, as the royal cortege 
passed mile after mile between lines of human beings, 
surpassed, every other demonstration that ever took 
place in America. No grander ovation to the rep- 
resentative of the elder branch of the Anglo-Saxon race, 
was possible. Here the entente cordiale with England 
was proclaimed to the skies by hundreds of thousands 
of freemen, who hailed the coming and showered hearty 
blessings upon the head of the son of that peerless 
Queen, whose virtues shed a halo round the throne of 
England, and constitute the pride and joy of all where 
England's tongue is spoken and England's honor loved 
— of England our mother country. 

In moral significance, as well as in the material fact, 
the spectacle was one never to be surpassed, while the 
entirely spontaneous and hearty homage was imbued 
with a peculiar interest from the antecedents of the 
two nations. 

It is unnecessary for me to enter into the minutise of 
the day's proceedings, after the idea I have already 
given of the whole. But had I the necessary space, I 
might fill a volume merely with descriptions of scenes 
en route, for the mighty masses of men, women, and chil- 
dren that lined the way, and looked down from the 
housetops, trees, and lamp-posts, and wherever else the 
human form could cling, are still in memory vividly 
before me, and every detail of the imposing pageant I 
can summon to my recollection. 

To convey an idea of the crowd, which, next to the 
Prince, was the great curiosity of the day, is difficult. 
It was huge, immense, enormous, exaggerated, stupend- 
ous, infinite, and indefinite. It was a multitude count- 
less as the leaves of the forest — one of those crushes 
which are perfectly bewildering to the senses. Below, 
a stratum of humanity was so wedged in and Macadam- 
ized together that to move one individual was to stir 



206 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

the whole mass ; while above, every window-sill was a 
rough frame, within which the faces of beautiful women 
and smiling children made up an attractive picture. 
Every opening, every story, every roof, was a parapet, 
from which constantly played a battery of bright eyes. 
Every available place was occupied, and where circum- 
stances naturally failed to provide accommodations, 
ingenuity brought into requisition boxes, benches, 
chairs, tables, and any other appliance that would effect 
the desired object. 

Those who could not enjoy the privileges of a window 
were content to take to the street, and the quantity of 
well-dressed ladies and children, mixed in with the 
not over fragrant crowd of unscoured publicans and 
sinners, was painfully amazing to behold. Once in, it 
was almost impossible to get out, and the poor females 
were compelled to endure the pains of purgatory to 
gratify the curiosity they couldn't help. Even the side 
streets were made available, and vehicles of various 
kinds were pressed into service and speedily crowned 
with an array of human beings. To the boys the lamp- 
posts and iron railings were a godsend ; and though 
now and then by looking up, the spectator might see 
tattered integuments fluttering in the breeze from 
points of the human corporosity, little attention was 
paid to these freaks of nature and accident. On tlie 
whole the crowd was altogether unobjectionable, except 
to its individual components. Occasionally there would 
be an eruption of highly oxygenated adjectives that 
would make a man's ears tingle with holy horror, or 
sometimes some quick temper would strike out from 
the shoulder, and be quietly removed from the scene 
of action by gentlemen in blue coats ; but, with these 
exceptions, everything was harmonious, melodious, and 
good. 

At one point a beautiful bouquet was thrown into 
the Prince's carriage, accompanied by the following 
lines : 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 207 

Accept, dear Prince, this humble gift, 
With every kind and loyal prayer ; 

May Heaven your Highness ever lift 
Above each sad and worldly care. 

One prayer among the rest I send ; 

Maternal love thus makes me sing, 
Though I would not yourself offend : 

May it be long ere you are King. 

As soon as the royal cortege passed the regiment in 
review, owing to the lateness of the hour, it would im- 
mediately defile and proceed to the place of dismissal, 
so that by the time the Prince reached the head of the 
line the corps at the opposite end had departed for 
their respective armories. 

Long before tlie cortege reached the hotel, it had 
become so dark that nothing more than a slim figure 
in military uniform could be seen of the Prince by the 
immense multitude that had been waiting in eager ex- 
pectation of his coming for several liours. This was 
a cause of great disappointment to tens of thousands, 
and many of the female portion burst into tears when 
they found he had gone by without their having seen 
him. 

The concourse in front of the hotel had, however, a 
glimpse of him as he appeared on the balcony for a 
few moments soon after his arrival, in acknowledg- 
ment of the pseans of welcome which resounded on all 
sides. 

On the following morning, His Royal Highness 
drove to the University, where he was received by the 
principals, after which the Chancellor presented an 
address on behalf of the council. He next visited the 
Astor Library, then the Cooper Institute, then the 
New York Free Academy, at each of which places he 
was received with respectful formality. 

A pleasant drive to the Central Park followed next, 
where the Commissioners did the honors by conduct- 
ing the party over some of the most favored resorts. 



208 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

Before leaving, the Prince, at the suggestion of liis 
guides, planted a sapling of oak and another of elm, 
as emblematical of the two nations. From the park 
the drive was continued to the rural cottage of His 
Honor Mayor Wood, where a grand dejeuner was 
served, of which the royal party partook, in company 
with a number of leading citizens. The Institution 
for the Deaf and Dumb was visited after this, and 
here the party were greatly interested by the profi- 
ciency displayed by the mutes in composition on the 
various subjects suggested to them, as also by a young 
lady, who read a few verses in welcome of the Prince 
by the usual signs. 

The ball given by the committee of four hundred 
citizens was the great event of the evening. The 
tickets not being purchasable, the company w^as limit- 
ed to the committee and their immediate friends. 
This w^as a mistake. In a democratic country like 
this, an exclusive gathering of the kind ought not to 
have been tolerated. A high price upon the tickets, 
and stringent rules as to costume, would have insured, 
not only as select a company as were there present, 
but an assembly less composed of old fogies. If the 
moneyed and venerable Cooperites who had the man- 
agement of tlie affair, and who knew as mucli about 
dancing as the celebrated pig in the hornpipe, wislied 
to be exceedingly aristocratic, wiiy did they not con- 
tent tliemselves with the selection of "ladies patron- 
esses," through whose voucher tickets only could be 
obtained ? If this plan is considered perfectly satis- 
factory by the nobility of an old monarchical country 
like England, and in a great city like London, it ought 
to have satisfied the New York committee of four hund- 
red. As it was, New York did not give the Prince 
a ball, but a certain number of gentlemen, who sub- 
scribed a certain amount of money with which to do 
the thing handsomely. It was a pity, after all their 
pains, that the floor over the parquette should have 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 209 

fallen. ia just as tlie dancing was about to commence. 
Either the committee or the carpenters had made a 
bad job of it there. This and the fall from the front 
tier to the floor of two large flower vases were the 
mishaps of the night. The other drawbacks were the 
consequent postponement of dancing till the carpenters 
had propped up the floor, the great crush of spectators 
around the royal party after the dancing commenced, 
and the comparative insignificance of the number that 
danced at all. 

The ball, however, had its bright side, as everything 
must have, especially when it belongs to New York. 
The dresses and toilettes of the ladies could not have 
been eclipsed in magnificence and elegance by any in 
the world, while for beauty and the display of dia- 
monds, where could their like be met? I know, from 
long travel and experience, that the women of the 
UnUed States, and especially of the Empire City, are 
matchless in their grace and chiseled beauty, while 
their exquisite taste in matters of costume is enough to 
win over those who have to pay their bills into a tacit 
consent to endless extravagance. 

Three thousand of the elite were present, and the 
Academy of Music, in which the ball was given, wore 
a most brilliant appearance. 

A shout outside, followed by repeated cheers, an- 
nounced the arrival of the Prince, and almost instant- 
ly the royal party, dressed in full evening costume, 
entered the room by a side door. There was no cheer- 
ing, but a simultaneous motion of the crowd evinced 
the anxiety of the company to see their distinguished 
guests. There was no rush forward. A few ladies 
stepped gracefully upon the chairs near them to over- 
look the throng, but the rest of the company retained 
their positions with well-bred composure, the specta- 
tors in the upper tiers rising, not from curiosity, but 
in lienor of the Prince. The royal party remained 
standing before the sofas at the extremitv of the stage, 



210 EOYALTT IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

beneath the pavilion, and as soon as they had taken 
their positions, the bands struck up the stately anthem, 
" God save the Queen," following it by the more tri- 
umphant strains of " Hail Columbia." The first effect 
of the scene upon the senses was so dazzling as to ren- 
der it impossitile to separate any distinct or individual 
parts. Flowers reposing in folds of fleecy lace, lace 
rising and falling in rich foam-like waves, jewels pal- 
ing before the fire of bright eyes, or flashing back ra- 
diantly from velvet backgrounds ; gold and silver 
glittering in the transparent tarlatane fabrics so thick- 
ly embroidered with the same precious substance that 
they looked like cloth of gold ; silver brocade, fair 
and shining, looking kindly on the stiff and stately 
moire ; flowers, ribbons, jewels, feathers, and the odor 
of a thousand parterres, all mingling with the lights, 
the music and the graceful moving throng. 

While the royal party were observing the company 
and the decorations of the room, a sudden rustle and 
movement of the crowd backwards announced that 
some accident was about to happen, and in a moment 
after one of the flower vases upon the front tier fell 
with a great crash to the floor, scattering its roses up- 
on the people standing by, but fortunately injuring no 
one. There was a moment's confusion, and then the 
company, prudently returning from the neighborhood 
of the vases, remained silent, while the committee pre- 
sented the Prince with an order of dancing. 

Scarcely had the Prince taken his card when another 
flower vase fell, and the moment afterwards a portion 
of the dancing floor gave way with a great crash, for- 
tunately injuring no one, however. As the crowd re- 
tired, frightened, to various parts of the floor, it gave 
way beneath them. This was three times repeated, 
two persons being precipitated to the stage beneath, 
but not being injured. The floor rather sank than fell, 
the props beneath it being insufficient to sustain the 
weight of the throng. 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 211 

For some moments the greatest confusion ensued ; 
many determined to leave, and a rush was made for 
the door, but the real nature of the accident being dis- 
covered, the company resumed its composure. The 
Prince was immediately conducted into the supper 
room, whither a great number of the ladies and gentle- 
men followed him. The remainder either promenaded, 
took seats in the parquette, or gathered around the 
pit, about twenty feet square, which showed the ex- 
tent of the damage. The promenade and the music 
diverted the attention of the company, who were kept 
off the dancing floor as much as possible ; the police 
Instantly surrounded the opening with a rope, which 
they guarded so that no one should pass. As many car- 
penters as could be crowded into the hole immediately 
set to work to put up new supports, and those who 
left in the first fright and confusion, either returned or 
stopped at the door, and gradually recovering their 
good humor, the company seemed to remember the 
proverb, wittily quoted by one of the fairest ladies 
present, 

" A bad beginning has a good ending," 

and that Shaksperean adage retorted by a rival wit 
and beauty, 

" All's well that ends well." 

And so passed the time during which the repairs were 
progressing, in conversation, promenading and flirta- 
tions, and patiently awaited the time when dancing 
sliould begin. Only the patience and good humor of 
the company prevented this accident causing this grand 
ball, so anxiously expected, and so splendidly prepar- 
ed, from being a complete ^ct^-co. 

The floral display at the Academy was truly magnifi- 
cent. Countless flower-pots with their odorous freight, 
in endless variety, filled up a great part of the space 
known as the dress circle. There was a cosmopolitan 



212 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

gathering of the brightest and most beautiful from all 
quarters of the globe. There was no corner of the 
earth — unless it be the frozen regions of the north — 
that had not its representative in the clusters that 
shone from the eighty or one hundred large, handsome 
vases which ornamented the proscenium, independently 
of the myriad of flower-pots of a more homely kind. 
The Continent liad its representatives in the floral 
conclave ; but the far greater number were the rich 
exotics of a more southern clime. There were the 
beautiful Delphinum Formosum, the Gladiolus and the 
Salvia Splendens, side by side with the Bignonia from 
the antipodes and the Astra Fortuni from the Hima- 
layas ; while, overtopping all, with its odd-looking 
red and yellow flower, nodded the sugar-loaf head of 
the Fritoma Uvaria from the far and dusky regions 
of Southern Africa. Every step, every glance, brought 
some new and strange variety to the eye. Bignonias 
were in great and pleasing variety, mingled with speci- 
mens of the Antirrhinum Majus, or Snapdragon, with 
its snout-like, fragrant blossom ; the Granadilla, or 
Passion Flower of the West Indies, starry and violet 
rayed, and the sweet Alyssum Maritimum of Old En- 
gland. The number and variety of Dahlias were posi- 
tively immense. Their native soil of Mexico never 
grew such Dahlias as those which lent their magnificent 
size and every charm of rich and gaudy color to the 
scene, from the deep crimson, beside which the beau- 
tiful Erithrina, or Coral-tree, was pale, to the faintest 
yellow that the variegated little Phlox of North 
America could ever possibly manage to get up. 
Tuberoses were also in great abundance — all alike in 
their exquisite fragrance and spotless white. The vast 
building was filled with the odor of this motley multi- 
tude of flowers. 

But no tiling could surpass the bouquets which the 
New York florists got up for the ladies who were to 
attend the ball. The majority were but of few colors ; 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 213 

all, or nearly all, with a large Camelia in the centre, 
which is a rare flower at this season ; then a few 
Tuberoses, fringed by some scarlet flower, or the 
feathery, violet Eupatoriiim ; then, perhaps, a circle 
of white Rose-buds, and the whole bound in a frame 
of evergreens, finishing with a deep fringe of white 
silk. Some had the Prince's crest and others the 
letters A. E. worked in flowers. There was nothing 
gaudy or showy about them ; all were simple, though, 
of course, differing in design one from the other ; and 
it was this simplicity of arrangement that made the 
exquisite elegance of these bouquets so apparent. 

Now " Music arose with its voluptuous swell, and 
eyes looked love to eyes which spake again," while 

Away, like children delighted, 

All things forgotten beside, they gave themselves, to the maddening 
Whirl of the dizzy dance, as it swept and swayed to the music, 
Dreamlike, with beaming eyes and the rush of fluttering garments. 

It must have been very delightful to you, Miss 
Mason, to dance the first waltz with the Prince ; and 
oh I Miss Augusta Jay, and Miss Fish, and Miss Helen 
Russell, and Miss Yan Buren, how divine you must 
have felt when the royal sleeve encircled your slender 
forms. Happy maidens ! Thrice happy Prince ! 

On the next day His Royal Highness visited Gen- 
eral Scott at his residence, after which he drove to 
Brady's Photographic Gallery, Barnum's Museum, and 
other places. 

In the evening there was a grand torch-light pro- 
cession of the firemen, who mustered five thousand 
strong. The engines and other apparatus were beau- 
tifully decorated, and the sight was the finest of the 
kind ever witnessed. The Prince and suite stood on 
the balcony of the Fifth Avenue Hotel while it filed 
past. Hour after hour, mile after mile, the gorgeous 
phalanx wound its slow length along, suffusing the sky 
with the lurid glare of rockets, snakes, Prince's plumes, 



214 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

and much beside, and dazzling the eyes of the half mil- 
lion that beheld it with the blaze of Drummond lights, 
here and there softened by the mellow tints of varie- 
gated lanterns. The crowd that assembled to wit- 
ness this glitter and glory of the night, was only 
second to the crowd that thronged the streets on the 
day of the landing. Madison Square disclosed a sea 
of human heads, lighted by the fitful gleam of fire- 
works, and from the first appearance till the departure 
of the royal party, cheers floated with wave-like undu- 
lations of sound on the cool night air. 

On Sunday morning His Royal Highness attended 
Trinity Church, and on the following one took his de- 
parture by the Harriet Lane for West Point, with an 
affectionate "godspeed" from the whole population. 



CHAPTER XXY. 

The Run up the River to see the Prince — The Trip of the Harriet 
Lane— Excitement of the Ladies — The Review at West Point. 

I WAS one of the crowd that traveled by the eleven 
o'clock train that morning from New York to Garri- 
son's, the station opposite West Point. We passed 
the Harriet Lane, sailing against a sharp, fresh breeze, 
and all eyes were directed towards her from the cars. 

Onward, beneath the Palisades, through the waters 
of the shining river, the dark and tiny form of the 
steamer glided swiftly on its way. 

No sooner had the train come to a full stop at Gar- 
rison's than there was a grand rush of a thousand or 
two towards the ferry steamer. The race was to the 
swift, and two or three ladies, clasping the hands of 
their worse halves, fell, and, I grieve to say, were 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 215 

made anything but happy in consequence, besides in- 
curring the loss of passage by the boat, which only 
saved itself from sinking by moving away from the 
wharf when the decks had been covered with a layer 
of humanity one deep. She had to return for the bal- 
ance. . . 

I have, fortunately, long legs and a disposition to 
run when there is no other enemy than time present, 
so I flew with the wind, and succeeded in getting a 
place second to none, although, in point of space oc- 
cupied, General Scott, who stood beside, had some- 
what the advantage, for among dwarfs he would be a 
pyramid, and we would have to travel to Patagonia to 
see his equal, odd giants excepted. 

We landed at the wooden slip, or pier, under the 
beautiful cliffs of the beautiful river, at about two 
o'clock, and the view that here unfolded itself was 
without parallel in the history of the spot. 

Men, women, and children diversified the cliff-sides 
by sitting or standing wherever there was foothold in 
cavities or on ledges, while a double line of people 
had formed all the way down the steep path, from the 
road fronting the hospital to the water-side, up which 
the Prince and suite were to ride on those steeds 
which were already impatiently pawing the ground 
near the pier. 

Beyond, on the hill-summit, in the roadway, on the 
tops of hotel omnibuses, and elsewhere, thousands were 
gathered for the purpose of witnessing what they 
could of the landing and the horsemen as they passed 

Major Delafield and his lieutenants were on horse- 
back at the river-side, when, at a quarter to three, the 
Harriet Lane arrived. The royal party disembarked, 
and boom went the first of the thirty-three guns which 
constitute a national salute. 

Excitement now quickened, and women's hearts — 
aye, and men's, too— beat faster at the thought of seeing 



216 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

the heir apparent to the tlirone of England, as much 
for his mother's sake as his own. 

'' Here he comes ! Here he comes !" was the watch- 
word, as he appeared in sight, riding in plain costume 
abreast of the military figure of the commandant of 
tlie post, Major Delafield, the suite, and American staff 
officers following in the rear, and the blue and gold 
uniforms of the latter contrasting with the mixed 
civilian dress of the visitors. 

Such a crowd of people was never seen in the quiet 
and picturesque precincts of West Point before, nor 
did a brighter day ever lend lustre to old October, and 
make the forest gorgeous with the rainbow glories of 
decay. It was cold, but invigorating, and there was 
an elasticity in the atmosphere highly conducive to en- 
joyment, so the spirits of the twenty thousand ran high 
and all went merry. 

There was an escort of dragoons in honor of His 
Royal Highness, which, when he had entered the house 
of the commandant of the post, to which he rode di- 
rect, drew up in single line, facing the gateway. 

Here a presentation of the officers of the staff and 
others took place by the Major, the Prince shaking 
hands after the American fashion with each. 

The twenty thousand, meanwhile, loitered in front, 
where the review-ground afforded them plenty of room 
for moving about, if their curiosity did not impel them 
to struggle for a front place among the multitude. 

After this, wliich lasted nearly an hour, came the re- 
view, the cadets, nearly three hundred in number, hav- 
ing taken up position in a double line in the centre of 
the plateau, with the engineers and pieces of artillery a 
hundred yards in the background, and the dragoons, 
an insignificant force, attending to police duties about 
the field. Some of these latter were mounted, and 
others afoot, but they were for the most part equally 
impudent in enforcing order. They laughed and jested 
with tlie crowd, and curveted their liorses about in 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 217 

the immediate vicinity of the spectators' toes, for the 
pleasure of seeing the multitude sway backward. 

The plateau, surrounded by a cordon of swelling 
hills, with here and there a tower, a spire, and a dome, 
looked splendid in the sunlight, although a bleak wind 
swept across the expanse, and made every one long for 
an overcoat if they hadn't one, and button up closely 
if they had. 

The number of troops on the ground was little more 
than three hundred and fifty, and the review of these 
commenced by the Prince walking side by side with 
Major Delafield down the front line and up the second. 
The suite and staff officers followed. This over, the 
royal party returned to the front rank of the field, and 
took up a standing position. The word of command 
was then given, and the band of cadets struck up slow 
time, when the march, in which the sappers, with their 
artillery, took part, was taken up once round. The 
next round was to quick time, and the third round to 
double quick time. This was tedious, but well exe- 
cuted in a military point of view. 

The party then re-entered the house and partook of 
luncheon. 

I have often found, and sometimes to my cost, that 
darkeys, and especially darkey hotel-waiters, entertain 
large expectations. This was conspicuously the case 
at Cozzens' Hotel, West Point, when, at half-past five, 
after the review His Royal Highness rode up to the 
door and dismounted. Those of the ebony complexion 
were on the alert, in full anticipation of holding my 
lord's horse and wisping my lord's coat, and waiting 
upon him at dinner, and otherwise being brought into 
such immediate contact with him that perquisites of 
no insignificant amount would be inevitable. But to 
their sorrow the sequel told them that my lord's own 
servants would do for him whatever was wanted, and 
that all the darkeys had to do was to help them. 

It would have done my Aunt Sally or anybody's Aunt 

10 



218 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

Sally good to have seen the rush of her sex towards 
the spot Avhere Albert Edward alighted on the occasion 
I have just alluded to, and to have heard such criticisms 
from their lips as ''He's perfectly charming," "Lovely," 
and " Dear fellow." 

It was a matter of much disappointment to many 
that he had declined dancing in the evening in the 
large room of the Academy, and some of the ladies 
were so intent upon having what they called a hop 
that they presented themselves in person at the draw- 
ing-room door of His Royal Highness for the purpose 
of tendering an invitation to him to come out and 
dance with them in the adjoining room. This they 
did, trusting to Providence for a band. But their 
wishes were not realized. The Prince remained quietly 
in his dining-room in company with his suite and several 
of the staff officers who had dined with him, till a game 
of ten-pins was suggested, after playing which in the 
bowling alley he went quietly to bed. 

At half-past ten on the next morning the royal party 
drove to the wharf, near the hotel, where lay the 
steamer Daniel Drew. Several of the military officers 
were present to see them off, and to these the Prince 
spoke a kind adieu. The band then struck up the 
beautiful air of "Home, Sweet Home," which was 
played with touching pathos, the steamer meanwhile 
departing on her journey. It was a farewell dirge 
which almost brought tears to the eyes of those who 
listened to its magic strains. 

Onward glided the vessel within view of the love- 
liest of the Hudson scenery. Onward past towns and 
villages, hills and valleys, ever picturesque and roman- 
tic, towards Albany. 

The steamer was met a few miles below the city by 
another, having on board tlie Mayor and others, and 
at half-past four o'clock she reached the wharf. There 
the scene was one of grandeur and animation. 

The Twenty-fifth and Seventy-sixth Regiments (one 



THE PRINCK OF WALES IN AMERICA. 219 

foot and tlie other cavalry) were on the spot, and had so 
much difficulty in keeping a space clear for the disem- 
barkation that they were compelled to present bayonets 
and stand witli those weapons pointed at the crowd. 

The procession was taken up to the City Hall, in 
open carriages — the Mayor being seated beside the 
Prince, and the dragoons acting as an escort, while 
the infantry followed in the rear. 

The whole population of the capital of the Empire 
State appeared to have turned out and to have gathered 
at the windows and on the roofs of the houses. 

The masses surged after the carriages as they passed, 
and loud were the paeans of welcome. 

It was another glorious sight for the future King of 
England to gaze upon, another link forged in the chain 
of international friendship, another wild outburst of 
genuine good-feeling on the part of the great American 
people. Welcome those joyous shouts, those waving 
banners, those delighted eyes, that take part in the 
noble tribute to a noble cause ! There is exultation 
here, there is fellow-feeling and respect ; but these 
soar above adulation. They are the outpourings of 
a free and generous, a friendly and an independent 
people, who hail Victoria's son as they would a brother. 

The entry into the Capitol on the hill was succeeded 
by Governor Morgan making a round of presentations, 
after which the party entered the Congress Hall Hotel, 
opposite, where quarters had been taken for them by 
the courier. 

In the evening His Royal Highness and suite dined 
with the Governor at his residence and so ended the 
proceedings of the day. 



220 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD I OR, 



CHAPTER XXVL 

The Departure from Albany — Progress en route— The Grand Re- 
ception at Boston— An Immense Crowd— The Military Display— 
The Illuminated Parade, etc. 

From Albany on the hill to Albany at the water- 
side, and thence across the Hudson to the Western 
Railway Station, the Prince and party proceeded on 
the next morning under an escort of cavalry and in- 
fantry. A fragment of the crowd which had gathered 
in front of the Congress Hall, accompanied them in 
an irregular troop, and the line of procession was 
margined with spectators, who cheered and waved 
their hats and handkerchiefs in a kind farewell. 

Tlie Mayor and other authorities took leave of Vic- 
toria's son, and at a quarter to nine o'clock the royal 
train and the State car, which was beautifully embel- 
lished, moved away amid the acclamations of those 
assembled. 

Thus ended another of those ovations which have 
lent lustre to the New World journey of Albert 
Edward, the beloved. Away sped the locomotive, 
through valley, over hill, past mirror-like water and 
woodland, towards Boston. The stay at Springfield, 
where the train arrived at twenty minutes past twelve, 
was limited to five minutes ; nevertheless, two colonels 
of the local army entered the royal car, and, present- 
ing the letter of introduction from the Governor of 
Massachusetts to Lord Lyons, welcomed the Prince to 
the State, and afterwards accompanied him to Boston. 
The multitude at the station, including the Mayor, 
were enthusiastic in their cheers, and it was a matter 
to them of extreme regret, that His Royal Highness 
made so short a stay. 



THE PRINCE OP WALES IN AMERICA. 221 

When Longwood was reached, the train stopped at 
the Cottage Farm Station of the Boston and Worces- 
ter Raih'oad, three miles from the city. Here the 
royal party were joined by the Mayor of Boston and 
the City Government. 

Over the mill-dam there poured a crowd of thirty 
thousand, which, however, quickly thinned, leaving 
only the respectable portion to witness the cortege as 
it passed by. Everett, Winthrop, and Lawrence were 
among the number on the spot. 

The carriages of the Prince and suite moved for- 
ward under an escort'of the First Battalion of Light 
Dragoons, consisting of more than two hundred men, 
tlie ladies -v^aving their handkerchiefs in a half frantic 
state of excitement, and joining in chorus with the 
men, to which the Prince responded by raising his hat 
and bowing to the crowd. " God save the Queen" 
was being, meanwhile, played by the band. 

Although the procession moved forward at a quar- 
ter to four, it was as much past five before it reached 
Bowdoin Square. I was astonished to see the well- 
dressed and evidently polite people that lined the 
streets, especially through Longwood (the name re- 
vives my recollections of St. Helena), and pleased to 
see the fraternal interest they manifested in behalf of 
the future King of England. 

Here he is ! Hurrah ! was an almost incessant cry, 
as the Prince's carriage came within view. 

Boys, babies, and old women, blushing and bloom- 
ing girls, and gray-haired men, were alike mingled in 
the mass, but all united in the one grand sentiment of 
welcome to the heir apparent to the throne of En- 
gland, the babies perhaps excepted. 

The bright eyes of fair women beamed from a thou- 
sand windows,*'and over the five miles of the line of 
route their presence graced the way. 

I may live long, but I shall never again see such a 
series of ovations as I did from the arrival of the 



222 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

Prince of Wales at Halifax up to the present time, 
and of which this was nearly the last. I would not 
have missed the sight of them for any money, and yet 
I am no worshiper of a throne. 

Mile after mile the gray of the infantry and the blue 
and white of the National Lancers, brightened the 
procession towards the Revere House. 

The people of New York, and wherever else the 
Prince passed through, know enough of the character 
of these boundlessly cordial receptions, to dispense 
with my descriptions, which would be but a glimmer 
compared with the sunlight of the reality. 

At Longwood Bridge the crowd grew denser, and 
carriages and horses almost blocked the way, while 
the trees were populated with grown men and small 
boys, who had about the best view of all, besides in- 
dulging in the pastime of plundering the apple-trees 
of their fruit. 

The procession quickened its pace as it advanced, 
and the crowd of followers quickened theirs also, to 
the tune of passing plaudits. 

On went the cavalcade through the main street of 
Roxbury, the enthusiasm increased, and thousands of 
handkerchiefs, waved by female hands, kept time to 
the cheers of the men. There was a snow-storm of 
cambrics, a thunder of applause, but the latter only 
rent the air at intervals. There were moments when 
the Prince moved by almost amid silence. But mo- 
ments are not hours, and it is these that make the 
summum bonwn, the ultima tliule of such an ovation, 
and they were well. New York alone excelled, and 
to it all may cry " Excelsior," but its like is elsewhere 
unreachable. 

I do not profess to elevate every stretch of the hu- 
man neck into the dignity of history. It is enough to 
say that all were eager and that nearly all saw. Flags 
waved before their eyes, and the scene was one of the 
most inspiriting character. 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 223 

Past the State House and the Common the caval- 
cade dragged its slow length along, for here the pace 
slackened, and so on to the Revere House, the multi- 
tude becoming vaster as the hotel was neared. The 
crowd was here so dense that His Royal Highness, 
after entering at the side door, came out upon the bal- 
cony and acknowledged their cheers, the greatest ex- 
citement and most intense enthusiasm venting itself m 
cheers, meanwhile prevailing. After this, some pres- 
entations took place, including Mr. Everett, and then 
the partv remained in quiet till eight P.M., when din- 
ner was* served. Kossuth and Jenny Lmd respect- 
ively produced an excitement in Boston, but nothing 
was ever seen equal to the present event in its highly 
respectable precincts, which are, nevertheless, said to 
have at least five distinct smells. 

In the evening the grand procession of the Bell and 
Everett party took place, and kept up the excitement 
to boiling point. , 

For two hours before the procession started, it 
gathered and came together like the pieces in a puzzle 
map. Lines of men, with flaming red and white lan- 
terns, came from all wards and all directions, and 
formed on the Common, their red shoulder scarfs giv- 
ing them a showy appearance in the glare amid the 
darkness. 

I saw them pass the Revere House, while His Koyal 
Highness came forward to witness the pageantry of 
the nocturnal scene. Bells tinkled, bells resounded 
like church knells, rockets flew, crimson lights explod- 
ed sunflower-like, cheer? swelled on cheers, host suc- 
ceeded host with the imposing aspect of an array, and 
the glittering, lustrous, gleaming procession marched 
on its way, club succeeded club, for more than an 
hour. Mounted police headed it, and horsemen and 
carriages, the latter filled with flag bearers, and the 
lancers brought up the rear. 

Hluminated bells and transparencies occurred at 



224 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

intervals, while thie line of route itself was here and 
there decorated with colored lights, flags, and devices. 

Immense enthusiasm prevailed, and " all went merry 
as a marriage bell." 

The usually quiet city of Boston was no longer 
itself. To use popular language, it was turned upside 
down, under the combined influence of the Prince of 
Wales and politics. The people did all possible honor 
to their illustrious guests. Many of them closed their 
stores, notwithstanding the unusually large traffic con- 
sequent on the presence of tens of thousands of visitors, 
which showed a self-sacrifice of the most genuine char- 
acter. The Bostonians are unostentatious and un- 
demonstrative in their show of cordiality, but they are 
none the less well-meaning than those who make a 
more boisterous and jubilant display. 

The Revere House was, of course, the centre of at- 
traction from an early hour on the following morning, 
and the Hon. Edward Everett and others called upon 
the Prince before noon, as also did Ralph Farnham 
— the hero of Bunker Hill — and his daughter, all of 
whom were kindly received by His Royal Highness. 

The crowd increased in the neighborhood of the 
hotel as tlie day advanced, till, at half-past +welve, 
when the Prince made his appearance through a side 
door, it was with difficulty kept within the prescribed 
limits by the mounted and foot police, who lacked 
civility more than energy. 

He was in full colonel's uniform, with the ribbon of 
the Garter conspicuous across his breast. The Duke 
of Newcastle, Lord Lyons, and others of the suite, 
were in plain morning dress. 

A burst of cheering greeted him as he stepped into 
the open carriage in waiting, after which Colonel Reed, 
of the Governor's staif, took his seat beside him in 
uniform. 

The drive was direct to the State House, where the 
Mayor and other municipal authorities, had previously 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 225 

assembled to receive him, together with several hund- 
reds of ladies and gentlemen, who filled the Repre- 
sentatives' Hall and Senate Chamber. 

As the three or four carriages containing the royal 
party drove up to the Common, which was densely 
packed with people — save in the avenues and other 
places, where the police had kept a space clear — the 
people unavoidably presented some obstruction to the 
progress of the cortege ; but, after a few moments' de- 
lay, the human mass was cleaved in twain, and the 
horses bounded forward. 

As His Royal Highness alighted, there was a good 
deal of cheering, not only from the multitude on terra 
fir ma, but from those high up on the balconies of the 
State House, from the centre of which drooped the flag 
of England, while at either side hung the flags of the 
United States and Massachusetts respectively. 

The Cadets were here drawn up to receive him, and 
their band struck up the music of " God save the 
Queen." Colonel Reed conducted His Royal High- 
ness into the presence of Governor Banks, when he 
was introduced as " the Prince of Wales," upon which 
the Governor welcomed him, following which he con- 
ducted his illustrious guest through the Representa- 
tives' Hall and Senate Chamber, all there present ris- 
ing as he entered. 

Ten minutes had hardly elapsed when they passed 
down the steps to the Common, where His Royal 
Highness mounted the horse, Black Prince, in waiting 
for him, and, with an escort of military, rode forward 
to the review. 



10* 



226 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OB, 



CHAPTER XXYII. 

The Review— The Musical Festival— The Grand Ball— Tlie Visit to 
Harvard College and Bunker Hill — The Departure for Portland — 
The Embarkation— The last Farewell to America. 

It was a fine sight as His Ro3^al Highness appeared 
on the Common, to hear the cheers and watch the ex- 
citement of the tens of thousands of men, women, and 
children there assembled. The review commenced at 
two, by the Prince riding slowly past the different 
companies, commencing at the right of the line, and 
concluding at the extreme left, when he once more 
took position in front. During this time the swell of 
music from the military bands resounded on all sides. 
The marching salute was now given, and the compa- 
nies proceeded once round the line. The two thou- 
sand five hundred soldiers looked splendid in the sun: 
light, and as they resumed their positions they were 
complimented as worthy even to rank with the superb 
militia of New York — the finest in the world. A 
drive back to the State House and a collation in the 
ante-room on the northwest corner of the building im- 
mediately succeeded, after which the royal party re- 
turned to the hotel. The next great event of the day 
was the Musical Festival at the Music Hall, which 
was beautifully refitted, and decorated for the occa- 
sion. The singers consisted of twelve hundred boys 
and girls of the Boston schools, who were arranged 
on ampliitheatric seats in two divisions. The girls 
who filled one of these were nearly all dressed i-n white 
frocks, and contrasted pleasingly with the sombre mass 
of the otiier sex. 

Every tiei- was densely crowded with ladies and the 
pit witli gentlemen, by the time the Prince and party 



THE PRINCE OF "WALES IN AMERICA. 227 

arrived at a quarter past five. Their entrance was 
the signal for 5 prolonged and enthusiastic burst of 
cheering, not only from the children, but the entire 
audience, and quite a snow-storm of white handker- 
chiefs fluttered in the air for whole minutes. 

Then the massive organ pealed out the loud full 
tones of " God save the Queen," upon which the whole 
audience rose and the twelve hundred sang in unison 
with incomparable effect — 

God bless our Fathers' Land ! 
Keep her in heart and hand 

One with our own ! 
From all her foes defend, 
Be her brave People's Friend, 
On all her Realms descend, 

Protect her Throne 1 



r 



Father, with loving care 

Guard Thou her kingdom's Heir. 

Guide all his ways : 
Thine arm his shelter be. 
From him by land and sea 
Bid storm and danger flee, 

Prolong his days ! 

Lord, let War's tempest cease. 
Fold the whole Earth in peace, 

Under Thy wings ! 
Make all Thy Nations one. 
All Hearts beneath the sun. 
Till Thou shalt reign alone, 

Great King of Kings ! 

I joined with the multitude in enthusiastic applause 
when the children sat down again, and after that I 
listened to their renderings of Mendelssohn, Beethoven, 
Mozart, and the Old Hundredth Psalm, with as much 
interest as their anxious mothers in the gallery. They 
did well, and at the close, soon after six, when the 
Prince rose, the acclamations were renewed, and ex- 
ultation and delight beamed in every countenance. 

And now a word for tlie ball in the Theatre, at 
which I was present a few hours later. It was a grand, 



228 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

full gathering of the elite of New England in honor 
of the representative of Old England. It was a crush 
certainly, but a glorious crush that gave it the liighest 
eclat. There was no vulgarity there. Beauty and 
diamonds dazzled the eye at every glance, and the 
costumes generally were strictly a la mode. 

The Boston theatre seemed to have doubled its size, 
so immense was the space which was crowded with 
" fair maidens and brave men." Even after the Acad- 
emy of New York, with its magnificent coup d^ceil of 
light, flowers, and beauty, the Boston ball-room did 
not seem second rate or fade ; but, on the contrary, 
so unique and original were the designs, and so admira- 
bly were those designs carried out, that even the suite 
of the Prince were deliglited, and acknowledged that, 
in the matter of ball-room decorations at least, the fer- 
tility of human invention is wonderful. The Boston 
ball-room was about the same shape as that of the 
Academy, and was formed in the same way, the par- 
quette and stage being floored over. The smaller size 
of the house, however, gave the Bostonians the advant- 
age in a cosy, comfortable, enjoyable feeling which 
very great rooms always lack, and without which a 
great ball is simply a great nuisance. One felt at 
home immediately upon entering the building, and pre- 
pared to enjoy himself as naturally as if the affair had 
been a private party. 

Broad double stairs led from tbe entrance of the 
building to the reception room, which was rather taw- 
drily furnished, with red, blue, and white hangings and 
wreaths of flowers, and which presented no special 
decoration, except a large British coat of arms, sup- 
ported by American flags, and suspended opposite the 
entrance. Near this reception room was the com- 
mittee room, furnished in the style of, and as riclily as, 
any private parlor. The Prince had the saloon of the 
theatre for his dressing and retiring room. The sa- 
loon was repainted, decorated and furnished in draw- 



THE PRINCE OP WALES IN AMERICA. 229 

style, and was provided with a splendid 
mirror and all the appliances of the toilet. The other 
dressing-rooms were very handsomely and convenient- 
ly furnished, but presented no special point for descrip- 
tion. Having thus hastily glanced through the dress- 
ing-rooms, let us proceed through the newly painted 
corridors,^ carpeted with green baize, to the centre 
of attraction and beauty — the theatre itself. 

Entering the room from the doors directly opposite 
the stage, the eye, dazzled by the light from a thousand 
burners, failed at first to take in the full beauty of the 
scene. The private boxes were hidden by groves of 
evergreens, from the deep shades of which peeped pure 
white statues, as if the wood-nymphs were observing 
the display and were eager to join in the dance. 
Those groves flanked the entrance to the stage, and 
above them were crimson curtains, rising in beautiful 
folds to the proscenium drapery, which was formed of 
an immense American flag, most gracefully arranged. 
The roof of the marquee was painted in arabesque 
work, in eight varied colors, with fantastic designs, 
and from this ceiling were suspended three chande- 
liers, of a style similar to the arabesque designs. 
Falling from the ceiling to the side walls were crim- 
son curtains, relieved by gold bands, and sloped and 
lapelled in Turkish style, producing a most beautiful 
and novel efi*ect. The side walls were painted in im- 
perial purple, with ornamented squares, and relieved 
by panels framed in gold and painted in lighter colors 
and more varied designs. From each of these panels 
— four on either side of the marquee— dt^pended side 
chandeliers, in ebony and gilt, under which, upon orna- 
mented pedestals, were vases of natural flowers, from 
Ever's gardens at Brighton. Between these chan- 
deliers were large pier glasses, gilt frames and flower 
wreathed, and the reduplication of these mirrors 
seemed to increase immeasurably the size of the room. 
In the corners, at the extremity of the tent, were also 



230 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

pier glasses, half concealed by common curtains, and 
just beyond them were evergreens and flowers, form- 
ing beautiful supports to the back scene, and relieved 
by statues of Ceres and Hebe, 

Looking from the entrance of the marquee towards 
its extremity, the effect was bewildering. Besides all 
these decorations, which the reader must frame into a 
picture for himself, the eye was attracted by many 
little details — a stripe of gilt, a happy flourish of the 
crayon, which cannot be described upon paper, but 
which aided the general effect. Then immediately 
opposite, half hidden by trees and flowers, among 
which a white fountain bubbled up its crystal waters, 
falling again in diamond drops beneath the brilliant 
lights, an immense picture of Windsor Castle frowned 
splendidly and completed the tout ensemble. From the 
turrets of the magnificent castle floated the royal 
standard. Around were trees, picturesquely arranged 
and grouping with the real evergreen in the fore- 
ground, while by a happy fortune the artist had suc- 
ceeded in catching that hazy, misty, half clouded sky 
peculiar to English landscapes. All of the royal party 
recognized at once the fidelity of this picture, and 
repeatedly expressed their admiration not only of the 
artist's skill, but of the good taste which thus beauti- 
fully and unostentatiously suggested the presence of 
the Prince and connected his home with his appear- 
ance here. Seats, covered with green cloth, were ar- 
ranged around the marquee, and the royal party were 
seated upon velvet sofas. 

Turning towards the entrance of the marquee, and 
looking out upon the body of the theatre, the coup deceit 
was surprising, and eacli detail only heightened tlie 
pleasure of tiie first impression. From the ceiling, 
richly frescoed and painted in gold and white, hung a 
large chandelier, an inverted dome of gaslights and 
glass, glittering and blazing indescribably. This and 
side brackets around the walls gave sufficient light 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 231 

for a dozen such halls, and brought every detail of the 
decorations into full view. The theatre had three 
tiers, each of which was differently adorned. Objec- 
tion might be taken to the motive of the decorations 
— which was mainly gilt and color — and might have 
found fault with the gaudiness and lack of simplicity 
which characterized the affair, but it is certain that 
everything which could be done with this style of 
adornment — and it is capable of magnificent effects 
when intrusted to good hands — was accomplished in 
the ball-room. From the uppermost tier, gilded pil- 
lars, with arches connecting them, supported the roof, 
and these were left undecorated, except by slight 
draperies of red, white, and blue flags. The front of 
this upper tier was covered with a hanging of crimson 
cloth, fringed with blue, and a blue border, draped in 
festoons and studded with gilt stars, ran along the up- 
per edge of the balustrade. Each of these festoons 
was held by a bouquet of natural flowers, from which 
depended a long blue banneret, ending in a gilt ball, 
which hung below the balustrade and over the tier 
below. The second tier was hung with orange color- 
ed cloth, fringed with blue and festooned with crimson 
and wreaths of flowers. ^At equal distances along the 
front were shields alternately bearing the Prince of 
Wales' feather, and the mottoes, " Justitia," " Concor- 
dia," " Amicitia," and other Latin inscriptions. Each 
of these shields was placed upon a blue hanging, with 
golden stars, and was supported on either side by the 
British and American flags. The first or lower tier 
was hung with royal purple velvet, edged and relieved 
by gold lace, and so festooned and draped as to reveal, 
at equi-distances, the gilded figures which adorned the 
front of this circle. The dancing floor was slightly 
raised above the level of the dress circle, and was in- 
closed by white drapery, edged with blue and orange 
cloth. Directly opposite the stage and rising from 
the first to the third tiers was the royal box, hand- 



232 ROYALTY m THE NEW WORLD J OR, 

somely draped with crimson fancifully embroidered 
with gold lace, and the whole surmounted by a dome 
of blue velvet, with outlines and ornaments in gold 
lace. Upon the front of the box was the Prince of 
Wales' feather. Above it, where the draperies met, 
were the crown and arms of England, and upon the 
summit of the dome was a spread eagle, in gilt. The 
entrances to the dancing floor, as, indeed, to every other 
portion of the house, were hung with curtains of pur- 
ple velvet. If from this description the reader can 
imagine the immense theatre ; the dancing floor inclos- 
ed as by a pavilion ; each tier differently but richly 
decorated, and crowded with superbly dressed ladies ; 
the royal box all aglare with light, and rich in gilt, 
purple, and azure ; the frescoed ceiling, with its pen- 
dent dome of liglit ; the marquee, with its groves, flow- 
ers, mirrors, and arabesque ceiling, its multiform and 
varied decorations, and its view of Windsor Castle, 
seen as if from out some immense window ; if he can 
imagine this scene, and then crowd it with a galaxy 
of both sexes, whil cover all the lights stream their 
brilliant radiance, and mirrors and jewels flash back 
and reduplicate the rays, and the soft, sweet swell of 
the music bears with it the light moving throng in a 
bewildering maze of beauty, then he can form some 
idea of the appearance of the Boston theatre at the 
Prince of Wales ball. 

The Prince arrived at half-past ten and opened the 
ball witli Mrs. Lincoln, the wife of the Mayor. 

I have a dim idea that Mrs. Governor Banks, and 
Mrs. Lieut. Wise, and Miss Crowinshield, and Miss 
Lissie Amory, and Miss Carrie Bigelow, and Miss 
Lyman, and the most lovely girl I ever saw — name 
unknown — were among the others who had the felicity 
of dancing with him afterwards, in consideration of 
wliich I have hereby immortalized them. 

The supper arrangements were excellent, and tlie 
spirit of the ball made glorious the night to all who 



THE PRINCE OP WALES IN AMERICA. 233 

reveled in its splendor. It was a grand wind up of 
the festivities of the grand tour of the New World. 
It shed lustre upon the Bostonians as the receptions 
which His Royal Highness met with in all the other 
cities he visited, with the two exceptions of Kingston 
and Belleville, shed lustre upon their inhabitants also, 
and it will be a source of pride to them and their 
posterity hereafter to read the record of their deeds 
in the history of our time. 

It was half-past three when His Royal Highness, 
after dancing the entire programme of seventeen danc- 
es, left the ball-room, the band meanwhile playing 
" God save the Queen," and the eyes of the company 
glancing full upon him till he disappeared. 

Friday dawned bright and fair, and a crowd, as 
usual, assembled in front of the hotel where royalty re- 
sided. Soon after noon the wish of the multitude was 
gratified by a siglit of the Prince as he stepped into 
an open barouche in company with tlie Mayor of Cam- 
bridge, who with the members of the Committee of 
Arrangements of the City Government had come to 
escort him thither. 

The Duke and Lord Lyons sat on the opposite seat, 
and the remainder of the suite with Governor Banks, 
Mayor Lincoln, and Hon. Edward Everett entered 
other carriages, and all drove towards Harvard Uni- 
versity. There was a general shout intended for a 
cheer, and this was continued with varying vigor by 
those assembled on the sidewalks along the line of 
route to Cambridge, where the enthusiasm rather in- 
creased than diminished. British and American en- 
signs were suspended across the street at the Cam- 
bridge end of the bridge, and in Broadway tlie children 
of tlie Cambridge schools appeared in gala dress on 
either side of the street. No sooner did the cortege 
appear in sight than these, to the admiration of their 
mothers, commrnced waving white liandkerchiefsin tlie 
air. The speed of the royal carriage was slackened 



234 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

into a walk, and as it passed between the juvenile lines 
the cMpping of hands became furious, and one young 
lady of the number stepped forward and handed the 
Prince a bouquet, which he took with a graceful bow 
and a smile that to the girl was a prize. 

The young ladies of the high school were assembled 
further on, and from these came a shower of floral 
bunches, while people cheered from the housetops, bal- 
conies, and windows, in a hearty welcome to the illus- 
trious visitor. 

When the party neared the college grounds they 
found the undergraduates in the order of seniority 
drawn up to receive them, while, as they entered, the 
Germania Band struck up " God save the Queen" with 
excellent effect, and the concourse of ladies and gen- 
tlemen there gathered lifted their voices in a joyous 
chorus of welcome, to which the white handkerchiefs 
of the former kept time. 

Between the lines of students, who numbered more 
than four hundred in all, the party passed up the main 
avenue to the library, while the aspirants in law, 
physic, and divinity cheered warmly their young fel- 
low-student of Oxford. Here he was met by President 
Felton, and taking his arm he was conducted to the 
hall, and introduced to Ex-Presidents Quincy, Sparks, 
Winthrop, and Walker, with whom he entered freely 
into conversation. He afterwards spoke to the Hon. 
Charles Sumner, and on being introduced to Dr. 
Holmes, with whose name was coupled the authorship 
of the ode entitled " Our Fathers' Land" sung by the 
school children at the festival of the previous day, he 
manifested much interest. 

The Faculty, Trustees, and other officers, were also 
here introduced to him. The Librarian then showed 
the visitors round, and among other curiosities point- 
ed out the lirst Indian Bible printed in America. Aft- 
er a stay of twenty minutes, the party signed their 
names in the visitors' book, and left the building. 



THE PRINCE OP WALES IN AMERICA. 235 

They were met outside by the students, who had 
formed in a hollow to receive them. 

The President conducted the Prince between lines 
of the latter, who had formed to keep back the 
crowd, from this to Boylston Hall, and thence to the 
University Building, the students still lining the way, 
and the mass of spectators following. The law school 
was next visited, and here the students of that depart- 
ment cheered enthusiastically. 

The Prince then expressed a desire to see one of the 
students' rooms, and one was shown him accordingly, 
no doubt to the intense gratification of its occupant. 

The " Academic Groves'' meanwhile resounded with 
the pleasant music of the band in attendance. 

The carriages were here re-entered, and the party 
drove away to the observatory, amid the cheers of 
the rising lights of the American Athens, the Tre- 
mont of its settlers, while the bells of the adjacent 
church played a sweet and merry peal in concert 
with the band, and brightly shone the sun over the 
classic ground. 

While the Prince was looking through telescopes, 
and reading the results of heavenly observations, the 
sons of Alma Mater formed themselves into a circle 
and sang "Auld Lang Syne," after which the Band 
played " Fair Harvard" with such effect as to elicit 
a general clapping of hands. 

After the lapse of half, an hour the carriages were 
seen returning. A hasty visit to the Agazzi's Museum 
followed, and then, passing back to Harvard Hall, the 
visitors alighted and proceeded to partake of a colla- 
tion. The whole company present at this numbered 
nearly a hundred. Here the guiding lights of the 
home of the Puritans Avere enabled to make casual al- 
lusion in their conversation with the royal party to 
their city's thrilling traditionary and historical a*^sso- 
ciations, its literary and educational facilities, which 
begun with the publication of its lirst newspaper in 



236 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

1704, more tlian seventy years after its first settlement, 
and much beside. 

With the termination of the luncheon the visit to the 
college terminated. 

There was a grand chorus of cheers from the stu- 
dents and concourse in the yard generally as His 
Royal Highness stepped into his carriage, and the cor- 
tege moved away towards Mount Auburn, followed by 
a troop of men, women and children in carriages, on 
horseback and afoot. 

The party were met at the chapel within the gates 
by two of the trustees, who pointed out the statues of 
Adams, Story, and Winthrop, after which the Prince, 
in the presence of a large number of spectators, plant- 
ed an English elm and purple ash in the ground front- 
ing the chapel. 

The Necropolis was not much explored by the party, 
as, without further delay, they re-entered their car- 
riages and drove away, the Mayor of Boston having 
now taken the place of the Mayor of Cambridge be- 
side His Royal Highness. 

And now for Bunker Hill, and heigh-ho for Charles- 
town. When the party alighted at the gate leading 
to the monument they encountered a crowd which im- 
peded their progress towards the small house at the 
entrance to the structure which somebody explained 
to tlie Prince was commemorative of the battle fought 
on the spot. He was also told that by ascending three 
hundred steps rea'ching to its summit he would enjoy a 
most delightful prospect embracing an extensive sweep 
of land and water, hill and dale, and a charming 
panorama of Boston and the long bridges, which shoot 
from it like the arms of a huge wind-mill. " But,'' 
said the Prince, "it's nearly dark," which was ac- 
cepted as a sufficient reason for his not scaling the 
height. He, however, signed "Albert Edward" in the 
visitors' book, and those with him having followed suit 
the party made an observation of the statue of Warren, 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 237 

and the interior of the base of the monument, after 
which they returned to their carriages and drove to 
the city, where they visited the Athenasum Library, 
and the rooms of the Historical Society, and Public Li- 
brary, founded by Joshua Bates of London, reaching 
the latter, in which a large number of ladies and gen- 
tlemen were assembled, at few minutes past seven. 

He remained here only a few minutes and then 
drove to the residence of Mayor Lincoln, who intro- 
duced his family and friends, and thence to the Revere 
House, from which he did not emerge till half-past 
nine on the following morning, when he entered an 
open carriage and drove with his suite, the Mayor, 
Governor Banks, and others, under an escort of eighty 
men of the National Lancers, accompanied by a band 
in full pipe, to the Eastern Railway Station. Of 
course there was a great crowd assembled at the hotel, 
and a mixed assemblage followed the cortege to the 
station. Meanwhile, a grand rush was being made 
upon the apartments just vacated by the royal party 
at the Revere by ladies and gentlemen curious to see 
the recent abode of royalty. 

The station was gay externally, with long lines of 
flags drooping over its entire front. Symbols of the 
United States were relieved by a representation of 
the Victoria Bridge, " the Pride of Canada," wliile the 
entrance was spanned by an arch hang with British 
and American flags, and inscribed with the words 
" Welcome to the Prince of Wales." 

The interior of the roof was decorated with the 
flags of all nations. More flags adorned the sides, 
and red and green cloth covered that part of the floor 
over which the visitors were to pass. 

Think me not trivial in enumerating these things ; 
they were delicate expressions of a great national 
feeling, and trifles give us the key to mighty truths as 
often, and not seldom more truly, than imposing deeds. 

A solid wall of people surrounded the station, while 



238 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

every window, roof, and fence commanding a view of 
the approach to, or interior of, the building was occu- 
pied. 

When the royal cortege arrived there was a gen- 
eral cheer from the assembled masses, which did one 
good to hear. 

The royal train started at ten minutes to ten, amid 
the renewed cheers of the people, and a salute of 
thirty-three guns, the Prince haviug previously taken 
a kind leave of the Captain of the Lancers, and pre- 
sented a valuable breastpin to the man who had sup- 
plied and driven the royal barouche. 

A pilot engine ran two miles ahead of the royal 
train, which consisted of three cars and a mail and 
baggage van, all new, and drawn by a locomotive also 
new. The appearance of the train was extremely 
handsome. The car nearest the engine was fitted up 
with an elegance that has never been equaled on any 
other line. Costly sofas, covered with velvet plush, 
stood in the place of ordinary seats, and a sprinkling 
of luxurious easy chairs, a floor with a beautiful carpet, 
displaying green flowers on a crimson ground, two 
centre-tables (one of which was ornamented with a 
chastely gilded stand, bearing a delicious bouquet, a 
silver ice-pitcher, with gold-lined silver goblets, and 
two net-work silver-point baskets, laden with luscious 
bunches of grapes and other fruits), a ceiling of sky- 
blue silk, plaited and studded with silver stars, dra- 
peries of crimson and gold silk damask, and the fine 
lace curtains of the windows, everything being new, 
and of the choicest description, gave to the car an air 
of regal splendor and perfect comfort. The cost of 
the material and labor in fitting this car was four 
thousand dollars. 

A retiring room was situated at the front end of the 
car, and this was furnislied with a desk, reclining 
chair, and otlier conveniences. The Prince of Wales' 
plume and motto, with the arms of Maine, New Hamp- 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 239 

shire, and Massachusetts, were placed in panels at the 
opposite extremity of the car, outside of which a semi- 
circular stand, draped with crimson velvet hangings, 
was built for the purpose of enabling His Royal High- 
ness to present himself to the crowds expected to line 
the way. 

Everything that possibly could have been done to 
reach the acme of luxury and ease was done, and that 
regardless of expense. 

At every station on the line of route a crowd had 
gathered, and decorations were displayed. At Salem 
the Mayor was in waiting, and on the arrival of the 
train lie stepped into the Prince's car, and welcomed 
him in a neat speech, a salute being meanwhile fired 
from Castle Hill, and all tlie church bells set ringing. 
Eight or ten thousand people filled the air with their 
cheers as the train moved slowly away. 

At a quarter to two the train arrived at the Grand 
Trunk Railway Terminus at Portland, under a salute 
of thirty-three guns from Bramhall Hill. An immense 
crowd had gathered at the station, where the Mayor, 
Admiral Milne, and others, were in waiting to receive 
His Royal Highness, as also the whole of the First 
Regiment, the Norway Light Infantry, the Lewiston 
Light Infantry, and the Auburn Artillery, with their 
bands. These acted as an escort to His Royal High- 
ness through the city to the Great Eastern wharf, the 
place of embarkation. 

The concourse on the hill overlooking the latter 
place was immense for so small a town as Portland, 
and could only be accounted for by the large number 
of visitors from Canada and the neighboring district, 
who had come to " see him off," as they said. Vehi- 
cles of the bathing-machine type were there by the 
hundred, and the scene was one of extreme anima- 
tion. 

Nothing of uncommon interest occurred during the 
drive. There was, of course, the usual flutter of hand- 



240 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

kerchiefs, and sounds of kindly greeting were beared 
as the cortege passed along the streets. 

There was a salute from the First Kegiment as His 
Royal Highness alighted from his carriage to walk 
down the hill, passing under a triumphal arch on the 
way, and there were cheers and eager looks. But the 
touching part of the day's proceedings lay in the leave- 
taking on the platform at the foot of the stairs. It is 
enough to say that the eyes of more than one or two 
of the illustrious visitors glistened with moisture from 
the well of feeling. Before them lay the ships which 
were to bear them back to fatherland. The harbor, 
surrounded by land save at the narrow entrance, dis- 
played tlie flags of England and America fluttering 
from the ships at anchor, and the steamers, heavy laden 
with excursionists anxious to witness the sailing of the 
royal barge, and the first movement of the fleet. 

The day was clear and sunny, but cold and with a 
fresh breeze blowing from the east, which rippled the 
surface of the water. 

"Good by, good-by," said the Duke with unusual 
pathos at the same time clasping my hand warmly, 
" good-by," said His Royal Highness, and at a quarter 
past three they entered the Hero's boat and rowed 
away from the shore. A loud, long, glorious cheer 
followed them across the water. 

This was the farewell between the eldest son of 
Queen Victoria and the last of thirty millions of kins- 
men whose affectionate love he bore back with him to 
his native land to strengthen his throne and reunite 
the hearts of both peoples for all time. Farewell ! 

And now there boomed the royal salute from the 
guns of the Nile, the Hero, the Ariadne, the Styx, and 
the Flying Fish, the yards of which were manned by 
their cheering crews. From the city and Fort Preble 
similar salvos were also fired, and the air resounded 
far and near with the roar of cannon. 

What more can I say? It is for the imagination to 



THE PRINCE OP WALES IN AMERICA. 241 

4 

fill up the picture, which was one of unrivaled in- 
terest. 

We watched the receding boat till it became lost to 
the view through an intervening vessel ; then we had 
another glimpse of it as, a mere speck on the water, 
it neared the Hero, for the latter lay two miles away 
and the water was somewhat troubled. 

It was within ten minutes of four when the Prince's 
standard was run up to the maintop of the Hero, which 
was the signal for another salute from the two vessels 
of the North American squadron — the Nile and Styx. 

A solitary gun was fired from the Hero soon after 
this. It was the signal to weigh anchor. Accordingly 
at half-past four the fleet started, the Hero leading, 
and the excursion steamers hovering round, while the 
thousands that crowded tlieir decks uttered a long 
farewell. 

Througli the gap leading from the harbor to the 
ocean passed the noble vessels one by one, exchanging 
salutes as they went with Fort Preble. 

Onward they careered on their watery way till they 
became mere pencilings on the horizon, and were finally 
lost in night. 



242 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 



COi\CLUDING REFLECTIONS. 



It is hardly necessary for me to remark that the 
royal tour, which in the foregoing narrative I have 
chronicled with cosmopolitan impartiality has been a 
great success both to the reigning family and govern- 
ment of England, the people of the British Provinces, 
and their neighbors of the United States. With the 
exception of the Orange difficulties in Upper Canada, 
the progress of the Prince of Wales, from his first 
landing on American soil to the day of his final de- 
parture from it, was marked with a series of the most 
flattering demonstrations, not only from those he will 
one day in the ordinary course of nature and by the 
constitution of liis country be called upon to govern, 
but from the free people of a great and friendly power, 
which although differing in system from his own aims 
at a like result — tlie priceless boon of liberty. Wiier- 
ever he went on British soil the inhabitants displayed 
their loyalty to the tiirone and their affection for the 
Queen and that son who came among them as her rep- 
resentative. At every city, town, and village through 
which he passed one at least, and frequently half a 
dozen, addresses of devotion and welcome were pre- 
sented, and as promptly replied to. I should have felt 
much satisfaction in printing the whole of these, for 
they did equal credit to the head and heart, but the 
space they would occupy is more than I could afford, 
and official documents of that kind are, after all, not 
very lively reading. 

The prepossessing appearance and social qualities 
of the Prince were of immense assistance in fanning 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 243 

the fire of his popularity, and his fondness for dancing 
aroused the interest of the ladies to a very high pitch 
indeed, aye and of the men too, for what father or 
brother would not like to see his daughter or sister 
dance with the future King of England ? I knew of 
several official gentlemen who traveled part of the way 
round with His Royal Highness, taking their daughters 
or other lady relatives with them, merely in order that 
they might have the chance of being selected as the 
Prince's partners, or even of enjoying the only less 
delightful honor of dancing in the same set with him. 
Many are the complaints that I liave heard from those 
who were disappointed in their expectations of an in- 
troduction to him — that great object of feminine am- 
bition. Many blamed, and probably with good reason, 
the members of the local ball committee, who, it is 
said : 

Sought not his taste to please, 
Asked not his wishes, 
While all around him stood 
So many misses : 
Belles at the right of him 
Belles at the left of him 
Belles all in front of him 
Young and full grown ; 
While that committee set, 
All around went to get 
Friends of their own. 

The graver import of liis visit was, however, in 
strengthening the popular feeling of attachment to the 
mother country. This result was equally achieved in 
the British Provinces and the United States, in the 
one case binding the Colonies closer to the parent land, 
and in the other, securing more firmly the general in- 
terests of the two great sections of the Anglo Saxon 
race, as represented by Great Britain and the United 
States. The sentiment expressed on several occasions 
by Lord Lyons, the British Minister at Washington, 
who accompanied His Royal Highness from the land- 



244 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

ing at Quebec to the departure from Portland, and 
whose already high popularity was widened by the 
excellent manner in which he performed the duties 
which devolved upon him during this time in his offi- 
cial replies to various American citizens, and particu- 
larly the Chicago Committee, was extremely gratify- 
ing to the people of the United States. So, also, was 
the following letter from His Grace of Newcastle to 
the Mayor of Boston, which is so emphatic and true 
to the feeling in America as to hardly need comment : 

" I cannot say with what kindness the Prince has been received in 
those cities which he has yet visited in the United States. If each 
individual had been instructed what to do, the whole people could 
not have shown greater delicacy of feeling and consideration for the 
position he occupies in England, though without the slightest surren^ 
der of their own claims to independence of action. They have all 
looked upon him as a guest, and resolved to treat him as such, but 
without overdoing the character of host. 

" In return, of course, every effort has been made, and shall continue 
to be made elsewhere, to gratify the amiable curiosity of our good 
cousins to see the eon of a Queen whom they love and respect almost 
as much as we do." 



It may well be said in England that such words are 
more than mere words, and that all such real kind- 
nesses on the one side, and prompt acknowledgments 
on the other, are sure to bear good fruit in all future 
relations between the two nations. 

To the Prince, personally, the tour must have been 
one of no less pleasure than profit, although it was a 
task which few in any other position would have had 
either the boldness to undertake, or the industry to 
accomplish within so short a period. He has been 
thereby versed in the school both of nature and human 
nature, to which a voyage across tlie Atlantic was a 
good introduction, and another back again a satisfac- 
tory wind-up. It is true that he endured no small 
amount of hard work during his travels, extending 
over more than five thousand miles and performed in 
less than three months, between his first landing in 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 245 

America and his final departure, but to a youth with 
such excellent stamina, and such a flow of good spirits 
and love of adventure as he proved himself possessed 
of, it must have been most cheerfully endured, while 
the positive enjoyment with which it was mingled 
made the effect only similar to that of dancing with 
the lovely of the land at a ball all night. 

Nature in the New World opened to his view vistas 
of stupendous lakes, and rivers to which those of Eu- 
rope are as rivulets, vast prairies, the grandest cata- 
ract under the sun, and a country, not only majestic in 
its physical, but in its social aspect. He has visited 
great cities that only a few years ago were great wil- 
dernesses, and he has been enabled to glance, although 
hastily, at the moral and political phenomena of pop- 
ular sovereignty which has earned for the United 
States the reputation of being the school of statesmen 
and the study of philosophers. He has observed the 
general prosperity of the people, a consequence of 
their indomitable energy, industry, and perseverance, 
their intelligence and free institutions. What other 
such splendid example of the advantages of self-gov- 
ernment could he have had than was here afforded 
him ? There was nothing so much calculated to imbue 
his mind with wide and generous sympathies with his 
fellow-creatures, and to inspire him with a noble con- 
fidence in the destiny of that great republic — that glo- 
rious Union which from one extremity of the globe to 
the other, is no less the wonder than the envy of man- 
kind, and the unexampled progress and prosperity of 
which commands universal respect throughout the en- 
tire realm of civilization. Such a great and valuable 
lesson to one, in such a position, is certain not to be 
otherwise than productive of the most happy results 
in every way, especially when coupled with the many 
pleasant associations of his visit. 

The next prominent event in his history may be a 
Toyage to India, where the prestige of royalty is so 



246 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

great that he would be certain to meet with a splendid 
reception. The effect of which upon the native popu- 
lation could not fail in being highly conciliatory and 
beneficial to British interests. Australia is so re- 
motely situated that the chances in favor of the Prince 
of Wales visiting its shores are few. But I can vouch 
for the delight the colonists would feel at even the 
prospect of such an event, and I can imagine the mag- 
nificent sequel. It is highly probable, nevertheless, 
that Prince Alfred or one of his younger brothers 
will, at no distant period, make his appearance 

'• By the long wash of Australasian seas." 

In a former part of this work I have made allusion 
to a very probable occurrence, namely the formation 
of all the British North American Colonies into an 
United Confederacy, extending from Canada on the 
east, to British Columbia on the west, and St. John's, 
Newfoundland, to tlie Red River Settlement. The 
project here held out is one the merits of which I 
could illustrate at considerable length, but I shall con- 
tent myself with a few words. There is, I am con- 
vinced, from personal inquiry, a strong popular feeling 
in the Provinces, favorable to such a consolidation. 
Indeed I may call it a popular aspiration. In the 
Red River Settlement the people are sadly in want of 
a government, and British Columbia, a highly promis- 
ing country, is by its isolation just as much in want of 
an Atlantic connection, as Louis Napoleon, when he 
became Emperor of France, was of a royal one. The 
North American Colonies combined have a popula- 
tion of more than four millions — a number, consider- 
ing also the abundance of their public works, and 
their advanced civilization, well capable of forming a 
powerful empire, capable at any time of withstanding 
aggression. 

The pride of having a national name and a national 
character on a wider scale than the present, may have 



THE PRINCE OP WALES IN AMERICA. 247 

much to do with the popular sentiment in favor of 
such an organization. The hope of increased digni- 
ties arising from an extended government, and the 
prestige of a greater name may also contribute to tlie 
impulse. But for me, it is enough to say that it ex- 
ists, and I have every reason to believe that the policy 
of the Home Government inclines in this direction, 
and only requires time to reach its maturity. Before 
concluding these reflections, I must say a word for 
the people of British America, of whose hospitality 
and kindness generally I have the most lively recol- 
lection, If by my impartiality I have disappointed 
some of them, they must refer the matter of that dis- 
appointment to its proper cause — my entire freedom 
from local prejudices. Any man may be proud in 
claiming Canada for his home or birthplace, and if 
my footsteps ever wander in tnat direction again I 
shall feel unmino:led satisfaction. 



248 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 



SUMMARY OF THE PRINCE'S TOUR. 



The visit of the Prince of Wales to the British 
Provinces and the United States is one of those great 
historical events which will be handed down to pos- 
terity for all time, and be treasured up by the peoples 
of the two nations forever. 

The first inception of the Prince's visit, it may be 
remembered, was from the Cauadians themselves, who 
petitioned the Queen to send one of the royal family, 
as she herself would not be able to attend, to inaugu- 
rate the opening of the Victoria Bridge at Montreal. 
It certainly was never contemplated that the heir 
apparent would be selected for that purpose — popular 
expectation being satisfied with some smaller person- 
age. It pleased the Queen, however, to send the 
young Prince of Wales himself to visit the Western 
possessions of his imperial mother, and at the same 
time to pay a visit to the United States. Never has 
monarch arrived at so wise a determination; for the 
lessons to be derived from the visit of the young Al- 
bert Edward to America can hardly fail to impress 
the future King Edward the Seventh in such a man- 
ner as to lead to the full recognition of the rights of 
the people, throughout his illimitable dominions, on 
which, according to popular tradition, the sun never 
sets. 

It will be remembered that, in accordance with this 
arrangement, President Buchanan wrote an autograph 
letter to the Queen, inviting the young Prince to visit 
Washington and the United States in general, in his 
passage through the most interesting poi'tions of the 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 249 

continent. The letter of the President and the reply 
of the Queen to her " good friend," were published 
simultaneously in the American newspapers, and ran 
thus : - _^« 



LETTER FROM THE PRESIDENT TO THE QUEEN. 

To Her Majesty Queen Yictoria : 

I have learned from the public journals that the Prince of Wales ia 
about to visit Your Majesty's North American dominions. Should it 
be the intention of His Royal Highness to extend his visit to the 
United States, I need not say how happy I should be to give him a 
cordial welcome to Washington. 

You may be well assured that everywhere in this country he will 
be greeted by the American people in such a manner as cannot fail 
to prove gratifying to Your Majesty. In this they will manifest their 
.deep sense of your domestic virtues, as well as their convictions of 
your merits as a wise patriot and constitutional sovereign. Your 
Majesty's most obedient servant, JAMES BUCHANAN. 

Washikgton, June 4, 1860. 



THE QUEEN'S REPLY. 

BucKiNGHASi Palace, June 22, 1860. 

My Good Friend, — I have been much gratified at the feeling which 
prompted you to write to me, inviting the Prince of Wales to come to 
Washington. He intends to return from Canada through the United 
States, and it will give him great pleasure to have an opportunity of 
testifying to you in person that these feelings are fully reciprocated 
by him. He will thus be able, at the same time, to mark the respect 
which he entertains for the Chief Magistrate of a great and friendly 
State and kindred nation. 

The Prince of Wales will drop all royal state on leaving my domin- 
ions, and travel under the name of Lord Renfrew, as he has done 
when traveling on the Continent of Europe. 

The Priuce'Consort wishes to be kindly remembered to you. I 
remain ever, your good friend, VICTORIA R. 

In this affair the Queen did herself honor in honor- 
ing the United States, by announcing that in passing 
the frontiers which divide the British Provinces from 
the States, His Royal Highness would drop all royal 
state, and assume the lowest title to which he could lay 
claim — the rather uncouth one of Baron Renfrew, de- 
rived from a small Scottish town, situated in a county 
11* 



250 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

of the same name, with the addition of " shire" at the 
end, making up the rather uneuphonious name of 
" Renfrewshire." Many and rich were tlie jolces of 
the London papers on the assumption by the Prince of 
this rather out-of-the-way title, and Mr. Punch distin- 
guislied himself by suggesting Sir Edward Chester, 
Duke of Cornwall, Mr. Guelph (pronounced Welf ) 
and a whole lot of other nomenclature. But the Queen 
and the Prince, and their advisers, were deaf to all 
these suggestions, and as Baron Renfrew it was ar- 
ranged that the Prince of Wales, Duke of Cornwall, 
and a whole host of et ceteras, too numerous to men- 
tion, was to be distinguished in the United States, and 
as Baron Renfrew he traveled accordingly. 
And now to the summary. 



JULY. 

10. The Prince of Wales and suite, consisting of 
the Duke of Newcastle, the Earl of St. Germains, 
General Bruce, Major Teesdale, Captain Grey, Dr. 
Acland, and others, embark on board the steamship 
Hero at Plymouth. 

23. The Hero, with the Prince on board, accompa- 
nied by the Ariadne, enter the port of St. John's, New- 
foundland, and cast anchor, at seven o'clock P.M., 
under a royal salute. In consequence of a heavy fall 
of rain, the royal party sleep on board the Hero. 

24. Landing of the Prince, under a royal salute 
from the Citadel, the vessels of war Ariadne and Fly- 
ing Fish, and the French war steamer Sesostris. The 
yards of these vessels are all manned, and the Prince 
is received by Governor Sir Alexander Bannerman, 
and driven to the Government House, under an escort 
of volunteer troops, accompanied by a procession of 
the several patriotic and trade societies. 

25. The great ball at St. John's, Newfoundla^nd. 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 251 

26. The Prince holds a levee, after which he embarks 
for Halifax, Nova Scotia. 

30. Arrival of the Prince at Halifax at ten o'clock 
A.M., under a royal salute and in the midst of a vio- 
lent rain-storm. He is received by Lord Mulgrave, the 
Governor,the Mayor, and Corporation, with an address, 
to which he makes a suitable reply. 

31. Review of troops in the midst of a drenching 
rain. In the evening, a grand ball is given in the Pro- 
vincial Building, which is opened by the Prince with 
Lady Mulgrave. 



AUGUST. 

1. A regatta takes place during the day, which is 
succeeded by a display of fire-works in the evening. 

2. The Prince leaves Halifax for Windsor by special 
train, at seven o'clock A.M., amid great demonstra- 
tions of loyalty, where he arrives at half-past eight. 
He then embarks on board the Styx for St. John's, New 
Brunswick, where he arrives at half-past ten o'clock 
P.M., after a pleasant run in the Bay of Fundy. He 
is welcomed with a royal salute at St. John's, and re- 
ceives an address from the Mayor and Corporation, to 
which he responds. 

5. His Royal Highness attends Divine service in 
the Cathedral. 

6. He attends a ball given in his honor, at which six 
hundred persons are present. 

7. Leaves St. John's for Prince Edward's Island. 
9. Lands at Charlottetown, Prince Edward's Island, 

from the Hero, after a pleasant passage. The Hero 
is accompanied by the Nile, the flagship of Admiral 
Sir Alexander Milne, the Cossack, Valorous, and Fly- 
ing Fish, and the French Commodore's ship Pomona. 
The royal party are received at the wharf by the gov- 
ernment officers and the public functionaries, the clergy, 



252 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD J OR, 

members of the bar, and the most prominent citizens. 
He is escorted to Government House by a volunteer 
force. In the evening he is present at a ball at the 
Colonial Buildings. 

11. Leaves Government House and proceeds to the 
Colonial Buildings, where he receives an address from 
both branches of the Legislature, to which he replies; 
after which he leaves for Gaspe, under a salute from 
the ships of war. 

12. Arrival at Gaspe Bay amid great excitement 
and a general outburst of loyalty ; the houses are 
illuminated, the Governor goes on board the Hero, 
and has an interview with the Prince. 

13. The Prince's standard is hoisted, and receives a 
royal salute from Fort Ramsay. On leaving the 
harbor the Hero runs aground, but is got off without 
injury. At half-past one o'clock P.M. the squadron 
makes sail. 

14. Meeting of citizens in New York, at which it is 
agreed to invite the Prince to a dinner at the Academy 
of Music on his arrival in the city. 

15. His Royal Highness lauds at Saguenay, the 
liouses of which are handsomely decorated with flags, 
and where the Hero again runs aground, but floats two 
hours after. Lord Lyons arrives from Washington 
and joins the royal party. The squadron again sails 
for Quebec, passing Ha-Ha Bay and other points of 
interest on the route. 

18. Arrival at Quebec. The Prince lands amid 
great enthusiasm, and is received by the Mayor and 
Corporation, members of the Cabinet, and the Angli- 
can and Roman Catholic bishops and clergy. The 
squadron receives a royal salute. The royal party, in 
the midst of a down-pour of rain, proceed, under a 
military escort, to the residence of the Governor. The 
day is turned into a general holiday. The evening 
closes with an illumination. 

19. The Prince attends Divine service at the En- 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 253 

glish cathedral, after which he pays a visit to the 
Heights of Abraham, and views General Wolfe's mon- 
ument, and the place where Montgomery fell. The 
fortifications were also inspected, and one can almost 
imagine that the royal youth recalled to mind the 
delectable quatrain in which a poet thus described 
the ascent of General Wolfe to the Heights of Abra- 
ham: 

He marched without dread or fears 

At the head of his bold grenadiers ; 

And what's most remarkable, nay, very particular, 

He climbed up rocks that were perpendicular. 

20. He pays a visit to Chaudiere Falls, and receives 
a delegation from Rhode Island, inviting him to visit 
that State. 

21. He formally takes up his residence at the Par- 
liament House, where he holds a levee and receives 
addresses and deputations in the Council Chamber, on 
which occasion he confers the honor of knighthood, by 
the accolade, on the Hon. Narcisse Belleau, Speaker 
of the Legislative Council, and the Hon. Henry Smith, 
Speaker of the Assembly. 

22. Ball given by the citizens, which the Prince at- 
tends. He falls with his partner while dancing, but 
recovers himself in a moment. Brilliant display of 
lire-works, during which a stage falls, and seriously 
injures several persons. 

'23. His Royal Highness leaves Quebec for Montreal, 
in the steamer Kingston. On their way up the royal 
party stop at Three Rivers, where the Prince receives 
a royal salute from the Royal Artillery. The land- 
ing is handsomely decorated with evergreens. The 
Prince is received by the Mayor and Corporation, the 
clergy, public officials, and citizens generally. A State 
dinner is given, which the Catholic bishops refuse to 
' attend, because the Prince in his reply to their address 
did not style them "my lords" or "gentlemen." 



254 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

24. His Royal Highness arrives at Montreal, amid 
tlie thunders of cannon and every demonstration of 
loyalty. In consequence of a heavy down-pour of rain, 
the illuminations, which were arranged to take place 
tliis evening, were postponed to the following night. 
The Prince announced that he would not land publicly 
till next day, though it is supposed that he landed pri- 
vately, and slept that night at the residence of Sir W. 
F. Williams. Much ill-feeling existing between the 
French and tho English inhabitants — the former out- 
numbering the latter in their display of national flags. 
In loading a gun to fire a salute, three sailors belong- 
ing to the Flying Fish and one belonging to the Val- 
orous are killed by a premature discliarge. 

25. His Royal Highness disembarks at ten o'clock 
A.M., and a grand military, civic, and clerical proces- 
sion is formed, by which the Prince is escorted to the 
Crystal Palace, which he inaugurates formally. He 
then proceeds to the Victoria Bridge, which he opens 
with due solemnity. [This was the principal object of 
the Prince's visit to Canada.] The Boston Fusileers 
take part in the reception — a compliment with which 
the Prince is much gratified. The ceremonies close 
with a grand dejeuner. 

26. The Prince attends Divine service at the Prot- 
estant Episcopal cathedral, and hears a sermon from 
Bishop Fulford. Great crowds inside and outside the 
church. 

27. Indian games, at which the Prince and suite 
attend, and are much amused. The New York Com- 
mittee wait on the Prince, and tender hini an invita- 
tion to a grand banquet. The Prince accepts the 
invitation, but prefers a ball, which is subsequently 
acceded to by the general committee. The great 
Montreal ball takes place to night, in the building 
specially erected for the occasion. Gorgeous deco-^ 
rations, and a brilliant display of wealth, beauty, and* 
fashion. The ball cost about $40,000. 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 255 

28. Great musical festival, at which about eight 
thousand persons are present. 

29. His Royal Highness visits Logan's, where he 
reviews fifteen hundred volunteers. From there he 
proceeds to Lachine, where he witnesses a number of 
Indians at their games and canoe races. He extends 
his trip to Caughnawaga, and returns to Montreal. 

30. Visits Sherbrooke, ninety miles from Montreal, 
and several places of interest intermediate. At St. 
Hyacinth he is escorted by two hundred Jesuit priests 
to their college, where he receives an address in 
French and English. At Brampton Falls he inspects 
some of the largest saw-mills in America. At Sher- 
brooke he restores to his rank in the navy a Mr. Fel- 
ton, who was signal midshipman to Lord Nelson at 
Trafalgar, and who had been unjustly dismissed the 
service. At half-past six P.M. he returns and attends 
the people's ball, but does not dance. 

31. Leaves for Ottawa. 



SEPTEMBER. 

1. His Royal Highness arrives at Ottawa, the little 
city fixed upon by the Queen herself (in council, of 
course,) as the future capital of the Canadas, though 
the Canadians themselves, who chose the Queen as the 
umpire in the matter, seem disposed to repudiate the 
arrangement, where he is greeted with the same en- 
thusiasm which met him throughout the route. He 
there lays the corner-stone of the new Houses of 
Parliament with much solemnity. 

2. The Prince attends Divine service at Christ 
Church. 

3. He rides in an open carriage to the little village 
of Aylmer, en route for Kingston. Arrives at Brock- 
ville at eight o'clock P.M., and is escorted through the 
town by a firemen's torch-light procession — the first 



256 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

the Prince has ever seen, and at which he is snrjDrised. 
Troubles are apprehended at Kingston, from the de- 
termination of the Orangemen to erect Orange arclies 
and organize processions of the order, with their obnox- 
ious banners and other paraphernalia, at wiiich the 
Roman Catholics take offense. The Duke of New- 
castle, to avoid a collision, which may be attended 
with effusion of blood, sends word on to Kingston 
that he will not allow the Prince to pass through any 
arch decorated with party devices, nor take part in 
any demonstrations in which party symbols are used. 

4. Arrival at Kingston, amid great excitement, in 
consequence of the firm attitude of the Duke of New- 
castle. Stormy meeting of the City Council. The 
Mayor informs the Council that the Prince will con- 
sent to land if the contemplated Orange procession is 
given up, but not otherwise, which is far from satis- 
factory. Third Grand Master Cameron orders the 
Orangemen to give up the position they have assumed, 
but he is met with the response of " No surrender.'' 
The Prince remains on board the steamer ; but his 
suite, with the exception of the Duke of Newcastle 
and the Earl St. Germains, disembark. 

5. The Orangemen continue obstinate and the Prince 
refuses to land,-'causing great excitement. The " Mar- 
seillaise" is insultingly played opposite the steamer. 
The Prince offers to receive the address of the Mayor 
and Corporation on board, but the City Council pass 
a resolution refusing to present it anywhere else but 
on shore. The Magistrates, however, present an ad- 
dress on board, which is received and replied to by 
the Prince, regretting that circumstances should have 
prevented him from landing. The Orangemen hold 
out threats to follow the Prince to Toronto, or wher- 
ever he might go. 

6. Arrival of the royal party at Belleville, whore 
similar riotous.demonstrations await them as at Kings- 
ton, in consequence of which the Prince refuses to 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 257 

land, and passes on to Cobourg, where there are no 
signs of Orangeism. The Prince lands, and is re- 
ceived with every demonstration of loyalty, and he 
attends a ball in the evening. 

7. The Prince takes a special train from Cobourg 
at ten o'clock A.M., and arrives at Peterboro, cross- 
ing Rice Lake on a steamer. He is received at 
Peterboro by a procession. From Peterboro he de- 
parts for Port Hope, which he reaches at two P.M., 
where there is another procession, by which he is con- 
veyed to the Court House, where he partakes of a 
dejeuner and receives addresses from the civic func- 
tionaries. From Port Hope he proceeds to Whitby, 
where lie arrives at three o'clock. Leaving this latter 
place, he reaches To^'onto at half-past six P.M. Here 
he finds that the Orangemen had submitted, and have 
but one arch remaining, which the Prince and suite 
carefully avoid during their stay in the city. The 
Prince lands, and is received with deafening cheers. 
He receives an address from the Corporation, and is 
escorted to Government House, which he reaches at 
nine P.M. The city is brilliantly illuminated. 

8. This morning the Prince holds a levee, and in 
the evening he attends a ball given by the members of 
the bar. An angry correspondence takes place be- 
tween the Duke of Newcastle and the Mayor, on the 
subject of the solitary arch. 

9. The Prince attends Divine service, carefully 
avoiding the arch in his way to and fro. Large mul- 
titudes collect around the church. In the evening 
the Duke of Newcastle and the Grovernor, while 
taking a walk, are grossly insulted for advising the 
Prince against passing through the arch. 

10. Starts for CoUingwood, ninety-five miles' dis- 
tant, by special train. On passing the town of Auro- 
ra, and other places on the route. Orange arches are 
seen erected. Arrival at CoUingwood. 

11. The Prince joins a yacht club, lays a corner- 



258 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

stone of the Queen's statue, and plants a tree in the 
Botanic Gardens. He pays a visit to the University 
and the Normal School, holds a levee, receives ad- 
dresses and attends a ball in the evening. 

13. Arrives at London, where he is received with 
the utmost enthusiasm and respect. 

15. His Royal Hi,2:hness leaves London by special 
train on the Great Western Railroad, and arrives at 
Woodstock. In a pavilion at the Mayor's residence 
he receives several addresses, and then leaves for 
Paris, where he changes his cars for those of the Buf- 
falo and Lake Huron Railroad. At Brantford he 
finds a line of little girls, who strew flowers in his 
way. He receives addresses from some Indians. At 
Fort Erie, after receiving an address, he embarks in a 
steamer for Cliippewa. His Royal Highness arrives 
at Niagara Falls, and spends some time in examining 
this stupendous work of nature. He witnesses Blon- 
din's performances on the rope stretched across the 
boiling gulf. 

16. He attends Divine service at Chippewa. 

17. Arrival at Queenstown Heights, and reception 
of an address from the veterans of 1812. 

18. The Prince is received at Hamilton, by several 
hundred farmers with every demonstration of loyalty. 

19. He receives several addresses, and visits the 
Central Public School, where he is again addressed 
by the trustees in presence of four thousand children. 
In the evening His Royal Highness attends a ball, 
given in a building specially erected for the occasion, 
adjoining the Anglo-American Hotel. 

20. Visit to the Provincial Exhibition, where His 
Royal Highness is addressed by the President of the 
Agricultural Society. He takes lunch at Dunburn 
Castle, the residence of Sir Allan McNab, after which 
he leaves for Detroit, Michigan, by the Great Western 
Railroad, at two o'clock P.M., passing the frontiers 
between tlie Canadas and the United States. His 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 259 

Royal Highness is supposed to have dropped all royal 
state, and to have assumed the comparatively modest 
style and title of Baron Renfrew. He arrives at De- 
troit in the evening, where he experiences, among 
democratic Americans, as enthusiastic a reception as 
any that greeted him through the provinces of mon- 
archical England. There is a general illumination 
and torch-light procession, and he is escorted to his 
hotel by multitudes of citizens, all vicing with each 
other to do honor to Victoria's eldest son. 

21. The morning is passed in a series of visits to 
the most notable places in the city, and a glad wel- 
come meets the Prince everywhere. He leaves for 
Chicago, 111., at ten o'clock, which lie reaches in the 
evening, when the reception he met* at Detroit is 
duplicated. 

22. The Prince visits several objects of interest in 
company with Mayor Wentworth, especially the grain 
elevators, which he views with surprise. He remains 
in tlie balcony of the hotel for some time at the re- 
quest of the people, who evince their anxiety to see 
him by their immense numbers. He is astonished at 
the account given him of the rapid growth and 
present prosperity of Chicago. He leaves for the 
prairies, and arrives at Dwight Station in the even- 
ing, where he has a rehearsal of next day's sport 
before supper. 

23. His Royal Highness attends the Presbyterian 
church at Dwight. 

24. Shooting of prairie chickens. Not much sport. 

25. Leaves Dwight for Stewart's Grove, where the 
royal party have better sport, quail shooting. Return 
to Dwight. 

27. The royal party leave Dwight for St. Louis, 
Mo., where they arrive early in the evening, and meet 
with an enthusiastic reception. 

28. The royal visit to the Agricultural Fair, at 
which one hundred thousand persons are present 



260 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ,* OR, 

Grand ovation to the Prince. Tlie royal party evince 
their judgment respecting cattle and horses. 

29. The Prince and suite arrive at Cincinnati, Ohio, 
and visit the piggeries. Tlie evening winds up with 
a ball, given by the Porkopolitans to the Prince, who 
is as popular as everywhere else on his route. 

BO. The royal party attend Divine service at St. 
Jolm's Church, when Bishop Mcllvaine preaches the 
sermon. 



OCTOBER. 

2. The Prince reaches Pittsburg, Pa., where he is 
enthusiastically received by Mayor Wilson and the 
Corporation, and the citizens generally. The Mayor 
addresses the Prince. His Royal Highness is surprised 
at the magnitude of the factories in Pittsburg, which 
he and his suite call the Manchester of America. The 
evening winds up with an illumination and a serenade 
to the Prince, who leaves for Harrisburg, where he 
arrives at eleven P.M. All along the route he re- 
ceives shouts of welcome, and at Harrisburg he is 
favored with a serenade. 

3. The Prince drives to the Capitol, accompanied 
by his suite, at nine A.M., where he receives an ad- 
dress from Governor Parker. From Harrisburg lie 
departs for Baltimore, where he is met at the depot 
by the City Council — a band playing " God save the 
Queen." Leaving Baltimore by special train, the 
royal party reach Washington at four P.M., amid 
thunders of artillery. The Prince is received by 
General Cass, who conducts him, under an escort, to 
the White House, where he is presented to President 
Buchanan, by whom he is introduced to Miss Lane. 
At six o'clock the President gives a grand dinner in 
honor of the Prince's arrival. 

4. The Prince and suite visit the National Capitol, 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 261 

and other objects of interest. At noon the President 
holds a levee, at which he introduces the Prince to the 
notabilities. The Prince then visits the Patent-office, 
after which he accompanies Miss Lane to Miss Smith's 
Institute for Young Ladies, Avhere he has a game of 
ten-pins. In the evening the President entertains the 
corj>s diplomatique at dinner, at which the Prince is 
present, which is followed by a reception by Miss 
Lane, and a grand pyrotechnic display. 

5. At ten o'clock this morning the Prince and suite 
embark on the Harriet Lane, and proceed to Mount 
Yernon, where they visit the tomb of Washington — a 
touching incident destined to be of historical interest. 
The Prince plants a young horse-chestnut-tree, in com- 
memoration of the occasion. In the evening a dinner 
is given by Lord Lyons to the royal party. 

6. The royal party embark again on board the 
Harriet Lane and land at Acquia Creek. Thence 
they proceed by rail to Richmond, Ya., where they 
are most enthusiastically received. 

7. The Prince and suite attend Divine service, 
after which His Royal Highness pays a visit to the 
Governor, with whom he drives out to view the dif- 
ferent objects of interest in the city and suburbs. 

8. Arrival at Baltimore, where the Prince receives 
the usual ovation. 

9. His Royal Highness arrives at Philadelphia in 
the midst of the election excitement, which diverts 
attention from the royal party somewhat, and renders 
the reception of the Prince less enthusiastic than it 
would otherwise have been. 

10. Great operatic entertainment at the Academy 
of Music in honor of the Prince, at which the artistes 
from New York take the leading parts. Immense 
enthusiasm. 

11. The Prince and suite leave Philadelphia for 
New York by the Camden and Amboy Railroad. The 
Harriet Lane, which had been placed at the disposal 



262 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

of the Prince by the President, leaves the Battery with 
the Committee of Reception to meet His Royal High- 
ness at Perth Amboy, where the royal party embark. 
The Prince is saluted by the batteries and shipping as 
the Harriet Lane steams up the bay, amid the cheers 
of the immense multitudes on shore and on board the 
different vessels. His Royal Highness lands at the 
Battery, where he is received by Mayor Wood, who 
welcomes him to New York, and presents him to the 
members of the Common Council present. He then 
assumes his colonel's uniform, and, at the request of 
General Sandford, to whom the Mayor introduces him, 
he reviews six thousand volunteer troops of the First 
Division, at Castle G-arden ; after which he proceeds 
up Broadway, in a handsome barouche, drawn by six 
superb black horses, amid the acclamations of a vast 
multitude, numbering several hundred thousand. At 
the City Hall the Prince received a marching salute. 
His Royal Highness then proceeded up Broadway to 
the Fifth Avenue Hotel, amid the plaudits of the crowd. 

12. He visits the New York University, the Deaf 
and Dumb Asylum and other institutions, and takes 
lunch with Mayor Wood, after which he pays a visit 
to the Central Park, where he plants an oak and an 
elm tree. In the evening a magnificent ball is given 
to the Prince by the citizens of New York, in the 
Academy of Music, which is gorgeously decorated with 
flowers for the occasion. Early in the evening part 
of the flooring of the ball-room gives way, creating 
much excitement and alarm, but, happily, without in- 
juring any one. The breach is repaired, and, after an 
elegant supper, the Prince opens the ball with Mrs. 
Governor Morgan, and dances till a late hour on the 
following morning. 

13. His Royal Highness visits General Scott, after 
Avhich he pays a round of visits to several places, in- 
cluding Barnum's Museum. In the evening there is 
a grand firemen's procession, in which five thousand 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 263 

firemen, bearing torches, take part. The engines and 
other apparatus are beautifully decorated ; and, in fact, 
it is pronounced to be the largest and most brilliant 
procession of the kind that has ever taken place in 
the city. 

14. The royal party attend Trinity Church, the 
streets leading to which are lined with people, and 
the vicinity crowded. After service they partake of 
luncheon with Mr. Archibald, the British Consul. 
Sermons on the Prince are preached, in their respect- 
ive places of worship, by the Rev. Mr. Frothingham, 
Unitarian, and the Rev. Mr. Harris, Methodist. The 
evening is stormy, and the Prince stays within doors. 

15. They leave for West Point, in the Harriet 
Lane, and on their arrival they have a grand re- 
ception, after which the Prince reviews the cadets. 
The Prince inspects the Academy, and finishes the 
evening with a game of ten-pins. 

16. Departure for Albany, up the Hudson, where 
the Prince is received by the civil authorities and the 
people. In company with Governor Morgan, he visits 
the State Capitol and other places of interest. 

17. Off for Boston, which is reached in the after- 
noon. The Prince is escorted by a troop of cavalry 
to his hotel. Vast crowds line the way and express 
much anxiety to see the Prince. 

18. This is a gala day. The principal public 
buildings, hotels, some private houses, and the ship- 
ping in the harbor, are handsomely decorated with 
flags and streamers. In the afternoon the Prince, in 
full uniform, with staff, accompanied by Governor 
Banks and his staff, reviews two thousand five hund- 
red troops on the Common. The sight is witnessed 
by thirty thousand persons. After the review the vast 
multitude form a procession, and escort the Prince 
through the principal streets to his hotel. 

19. The Prince visits Harvard College, Mount 
Vuburn Cemetery, Bunker Hill and the Charlestown 



264 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

Navy Yard, and the Public Library in the evening. 
He attracts large crowds wherever he goes. 

20. He leaves Boston for Portland, Maine, where 
he is received by the Governor of the State, the Mayor 
of the city and a respectable body of military, together 
with almost the entire population, by whom he is es- 
corted through the principal streets to the place of 
embarkation, where he goes on board the Hero, under 
a royal salute, and almost immediately after the squad- 
ron sails for Old England. 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 265 



THE HISTORICAL PRINCES OF WALES. 



In the hereditary halo surrounding the title of 
Prince of Wales there is much calculated to involve 
the detail of the historian. Identified as the dignity 
has been with English story for more than five centu- 
ries, few readers even of that stor}^ are cognizant of 
the powers or events nearly allied to the honorary 
designation of the regular heir to the British throne, 
and who may not discover in the following brief sum- 
mary of the lives and deaths of the nineteen Princes 
of Wales, preceding the present and twentieth, some- 
thing to ponder over and repay the perusal. 

The first Prince of Wales (of English connection) 
was Edward of Caernarvon, eldest son of King Ed- 
ward the First — born at the castle where he derived 
his appellation, at the moment his father was consum- 
mating the conquest of the Welsh people. An old 
legend, as likely to be true as false, has been handed 
down to us in respect to this Prince, to the effect that 
the Welsh refused up to the latest moment to accept a 
Prince apart from one who was their own countryman, 
and could speak no language except their own — a dif- 
ficulty which the adroit Edward soon disposed of by 
presenting to his new subjects his own infant, born 
only the previous night in Caernarvon. This Prince 
afterwards became King Edward the Second, and is 
noted in history as one of the weakest and most unfor- 
tunate of monarchs who ever held the English sceptre. 
Hurled from place and power, he was confined in the 
lowest dungeons of Berkeley Castle, and there murder- 
ed by a process as unnatural as it was horrible. 

The second Prince of Wales was son of the above 

12 



266 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

unhappy king, but very unlike him in disposition and 
the glory of his reign. The name of Edward the 
Third fills a brilliant page in English history, as does 
that of his son, known as the " Black Prince," the most 
successful of generals and the most accomplished of 
warriors, who, we are told, was the first to adopt the 
three ostrich feathers, with the motto '' Ich Dien/^ as a 
cognizance, and who, much to the sorrow of his own 
countrymen, died before he could attain the dignity 
held by his parent, and which must have devolved on 
him had he been spared a few years longer. 

As though for the purpose of showing how imbecil- 
ity is reflected in the same family, and of contrasting 
one Prince of Wales with his immediate predecessor, 
Richard, afterwards the second king of that name, and 
son of the " Black Prince," took up the motto dropped 
by the latter. A man of indecision and weakness, he 
was tiie victim of courtly cabals, and, it is recorded, 
was starved to death. His cousin and successor on 
the throne, Henry, of Lancaster, had a son, who, per- 
haps more than all the other Princes of Wales, has 
claimed the respect and admiration of subsequent gen- 
erations. Who, at all familiar with the Shaksperean 
muse needs to be reminded of the madcap Harry, boon 
companion of fat Jack Fallstaff, royster in general in 
his youth, but afterwards, when the " awful round of 
sovereignty" had clasped his brow, the illustrious hero 
of Agincourt and chivalrous gentleman of Europe. 
Again : in connection with the title of Prince of 
Wales, we come to a duplicate and a contrast as well 
of character. The son of the dead monarch is crown- 
ed in Paris when only nine months old. Tliis Prince 
also has been portrayed by Shakspeare, who, in the 
amiable yet vacillating Henry the Sixth, has shown 
us a man to pity more than to admire or condemn. 

Passing over a few years, we come to another Princo 
of Wales, as valiant as his grandfather and as unfor^ 
tunate as his father- We speak of the young Edward, 



THE PRINCE OP WALES IN AMERICA. 267 

who, it is said, was stabbed on the battle-field of 
Tewkesbury, by " Dukes Richard, Clarence, and the 
rest." 

After this Prince comes the eldest son of Edward 
the Fourth, of York — numbered among the monarchs 
of England as Edward the Fifth — who, according to 
general belief, was murdered in the Tower of London, 
at the instigation of his uncle, afterwards Richard the 
Third. 

Many years pass and many changes take place be- 
fore the title of Prince of Wales is again taken up — 
in the present instance by Arthur, son of Henry the 
Seventh. This Prince dies in his father's lifetime, and 
leaves his dignity to his brother Henry, afterwards 
Henry the Eighth, of no very enviable memory. 
Henry's son is the next Prince of Wales — a title he 
becomingly bears until his ascension to the throne as 
Edward the Sixth. Mary and Elizabeth follow ; and 
as neither has progeny, the title of right belonging to 
the hereditary heir apparent to the English throne re- 
mains in abeyance until the coming of the Scottish 
James, on whose accession to the throne left vacant 
by Elizabeth, his eldest son Henry assumes the dignity 
of Prince of Wales ; and after him, he dying young, 
his brother Charles, subsequently King Charles, who 
was beheaded in 1649. The eldest son of this unfor- 
tunate monarch was, of course, Prince of Wales during 
his father's life, and Charles the Second when he died. 
He left no legitimate offspring, and was succeeded by 
his brother, the Duke of York, as James the Second. 
James it is well known, was obliged to fly from En- 
gland, taking with him his wife and infant son (Prince 
of Wales), afterwards known as the Chevalier St. 
George, in whose behalf the so-called " Rebellion" of 
1715 was concerted, and whose son, Charles Edward, 
was commonly called the " Pretender." 

The Guelphs taking possession of the English throne 
in 1714, the next Prince of Wales was the son of the 



268 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR 



first George, and on the death of that monarch, George 
the Second. He had a son, Frederick, who, in 1727, 
became, in his turn. Prince of Wales, and who, dying 
early, left the title to his son George, afterwards third 
king of that designation on the English throne, which 
he ascended in 1760. Two years afterwards he had a 
son, who, according to usage, was created Prince of 
"Wales by patent, when a few days old. This person- 
age became Regent in 1812, and King in 1820, and 
was, in his time, noted for the splendor of his living. 
Dying in 1830, he was succeeded by his brother, the 
Duke of Clarence (William the Fourth), who, having 
no legitimate offspring, left, on his decease in 1837, 
the right, title, and dignity to his niece, the Princess 
Victoria, of Kent, of whom the Prince of Wales, Al- 
bert Edward, is the eldest son. His Royal Highness 
was born on the 9th of November, 1841^ at Bucking- 
ham Palace, London. 

The materials which in future days will be at hand 
to enable a biographer to write a history, or part his- 
tory, of his life are not yet to be found. The deeds 
of his youth and the achievements of his manhood and 
maturity are yet to be enacted. At present he can 
only be congratulated on the splendid prospect he has 
before him, and as the fortunate possessor of a wide 
field for good. 

His visit to America has naturally caused great in- 
terest, partly on account of its being the first visit ever 
paid by a Prince of Wales to the great republic, but 
more particularly by reason of the universal respect 
entertained by the American people for his mother, 
Queen Victoria. It lias been the fate of few women 
placed in so elevated a position to receive so wide- 
spread a reputation for the womanly virtues, and it 
would seem as though she had determined to train her 
children with as much care as she had been trained 
herself. 

The titles of the Prince of Wales are, Duke of Sax- 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 269 

ony, Prince of Saxe Coburg Gotha, Duke of Cornwall 
and Rotlisay, Earl of Chester, Carrick, Dublin, Baron 
Renfrew, and Lord of the Isles. These titles he de- 
rives partly by inheritance and partly fuom creation, 
from the circumstance of King Edward I. having, in 
politic concession to the Welsh chieftains, created his 
heir " Prince of Wales," a few days after his birth, 
which took place in Caernarvon Castle. This was the 
unhappy Edward II., who was so barbarously murder- 
ed by Mortimer in Berkeley Castle. A few days after 
lie was created Earl of Chester, which title has been 
retained up to the present time. The Scottish titles 
of the Prince are derived from Robert III., in whose 
reign they were vested in the heir apparent of the 
Crown of Scotland. His Irish titles were conferred 
on the present Prince of Wales by Queen Victoria, on 
the lOtli of September, 1849, in commemoration of her 
visit to Ireland. In the House of Lords he is known 
as the Duke of Cornwall. 

Dod, the great authority on all these questions, thus 
defines the rank and position of the Prince of Wales : 
" The Prince of Wales has ever been regarded as the 
first subject in the realm, the nearest to the throne, 
the most dignified of the Peers of Parliament, and 
though not exercising any political power beyond his 
vote as a legislator, yet regarded by all men as the 
most eminent person in the State next after the sov- 
ereign." 

The education of Albert Edward has been conducted 
under the immediate supervision of the Queen. In the 
languages, classics, natural philosophy, mathematics, 
jurisprudence, and other branches. His Royal High- 
ness has had the most eminent professors of the day. 

On the 9th of November, 1858, the Prince of Wales, 
having on that day completed his seventeenth year, 
was appointed colonel in the army. 

Having thus fairly entered upon the duties of man- 
hood. His Royal Highness determined upon pursuing 



270 ROYALTY IN THR XEW WORLD ; OR, 

his studies, for a time at least, at home. Accordingly, 
after a brief visit to his illustrious sister at Berlin, 
the Princess Frederick William of Prussia, he pro- 
ceeded on his journey to Italy. On his way thither 
he performed the first public act of his life, by present- 
ing colors to the 100th or Prince of Wales' Royal 
Canadian Regim_ent of Foot, then stationed at Shorn- 
cliffe, near Folkestone. 

The Prince arrived in the Eternal City in the latter 
part of January, 1859, and, having spent some time in 
exploring ancient and modern Rome, proceeded quietly 
and unostentatiously to his studies. Before doing so, 
however, he paid a visit to the Pope. His appearance 
at the Vatican is worthy of note, inasmuch as a Prince 
of the blood-royal of England had not made a similar 
visit for some centuries. Agreeably to the expressed 
wish of Her Majesty, the reception was conducted with 
little ceremony. His Holiness rose on the entry of 
the Prince, and, coming forward to the door of the 
apartment to meet him, conducted him in the most 
affable manner possible to a seat, and entered into 
conversation with him in French. Col. Bruce was the 
only other person present at the interview, which was 
brief, and limited to complimentary expressions and 
subjects of local interest, but perfectly satisfactory to 
all parties. On the Prince rising to take his leave, 
the Pope conducted him again to the door with the 
same warmth of manner which he had testified on 
receiving him. The stay of His Royal Highness in 
Rome being interrupted by the outbreak of the war 
in Italy, he traveled to Gibraltar, and from thence to 
Spain and Portugal. He returned to England on 
June 25, 1859. 

On his return he took up his residence at Oxford to 
pursue his studies, and on the 9th of July last he em- 
barked with liis suite at Davenport, on board the Hero 
ship of war, and sailed for America on the following 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 271 

In person the young Prince has rather a short slim 
figure, which is always displayed to the best advantage 
in trim fitting garments of the latest style. Pie has 
his mother's profile, and in order to see the contour of 
his face, it is only necessary to look at the effigies of 
the Queen upon an English sixpence. 

The manners of the Prince of Wales would form a 
good model for any youth to follow. Modest, unas- 
suming, courteous, and agreeable to all, he makes hosts 
of friends wherever he goes. 



272 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 



THE ROYAL PARTY. 



THE DUKE OF NEWCASTLE. 

Henry Pelham Clinton, fifth Duke of Newcastle, is 
a Statesman and Peer of the British Empire, and Sec- 
retary of State for the Colonies. He was born on the 
22d of May, 1811, in London, and is descended from 
the ancient family of the Barons Clinton, who inherited 
in 1756 the Dukedom of Newcastle, under the name of 
Lord Lincoln. He was educated at the University of 
Oxford, and as soon as he became of age he took his 
seat in the House of Commons, to which he was con- 
stantly re-elected until 1851, at first for the borough 
of Nottingham, and then for that of Falkirk. At 
this latter date he took his father's seat in the House 
of Lords, and continued to support the policy of 
the conservative party, of which he is a moderate rep- 
resentative. He differed with the old tories on 
the double question of the endowment of the Catholic 
clergy and the reform of the tariffs, for which lie voted. 
He was appointed Lord of the Treasury in 1834, in 
connection with the first Cabinet of Sir Robert Peel ; 
in the second Peel Cabinet of 1841 and 1846 he held 
the still higher post of first Commissioner of the Woods 
and Forests. In 1846 he was for some time Secretary 
in Chief for L-eland. 

In 1852 the Duke of Newcastle formed a part of the 
Aberdeen ministry, and after having discharged the 
duties of the Colonial Office for some time, he was made 
Secretary of War in June, 1854, a most important 
position at that period, in consequence of the Russian 
Avar. The campaign had liardly opened when loud 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 273 

complaints arose on all sides against the insufficient 
and unsatisfactory manner in which the ministry had 
provided for the necessities of an army on the march. 
The Duke defended himself in Parliament with a great 
deal of spirit, and yet with moderation, and afterwards 
Lord John Russell attributed tlie errors with which 
the Duke had been charged to the numerous inter- 
ruptions which liad prevailed in a badly organized 
ministry. The Duke of Newcastle, however, being 
greatly dissatisfied, resigned his port-folio into the 
hands of Lord Panmure in Februarj^, 1855. A com- 
mission of inquiry was then appointed, which did not 
justify any of the accumulated charges against the 
Duke. He spent the autumn of 1855 in visiting the 
Crimea and all the, military posts of the Black Sea. 
By Ids marriage witli the only daughter of the Duke 
of Hamilton, from whom he publicly separated since 
1850, he has five children. The eldest, Henry Pelham 
Alexander, Count of Lincoln, was born in 1834. 

Although the natural and easy manner in which the 
Prince has accommodated himself to the circumstances 
in which he has been placed may in a great measure 
be set down to the genial and amiable impulses of his 
own nature, it must not be forgotten that he has been 
all the time under strict tutelage, and that it is more 
to the judgment and tact of his advisers than to his 
own unfettered discretion that are due the admirable 
propriety and freedom from all that was likely to shock 
democratic prejudices that marked his progress on the 
American shores. It is but right that the Mentor to 
whom the popularity of the British Telemachus is in a 
great measure owing should have his fair share of tlie 
credit attaching to the conduct of his royal charge. 
It is not generally known, and it is time that the fact 
sliould be stated, that on His Grace the Duke of New- 
castle devolved by Queen Victoria the entire responsi- 
bility of her son's actions during his visit to America. 
Among the whole British aristocracy, a wiser or more 

12* 



274 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

judicious selection could not have been made. The 
career of this nobleman, from his first entrance on 
public life, has been marked by an uprightness, a 
soundness of judgment, and a comprehensiveness of 
views, which have singled him out as one of the most 
patriotic and estimable of living British statesmen. 

AVhen Lord Lincoln, he was one of the first to give 
his adhesion to the free trade theories of Sir Robert 
Peel, convinced that in their adoption lay the only 
permanent foundations of the prosperity of his country. 
When that great man was made the incessant object 
of bitter persecutions by the party whom he had con- 
scientiously deserted, Lord Lincoln was one of the 
small but gallant band of statesmen who adhered to 
his fortunes, and who, after his death, esteemed it 
their greatest pride to have been*numbered among his 
followers. But it is not in his public life only that 
the Duke has displayed those rare qualities which have 
earned him universal respect. -The course wliich he 
pursued on coming into possession of his father's title 
and estates offered an equally striking example of the 
justness of views and lofty disinterestedness which 
seem to be the leading qualities of his character. In 
his address to the tenantry of the Clumber estates, 
Notts, delivered in December, 1851, he gave expression 
to sentiments and intentions which did equal credit to 
his head and heart. In the first place he informed 
them that the custom that had prevailed of demanding 
the rent immediately after harvest would be discon- 
tinued, as he felt that the practice was prejudicial to 
the tenant, by compelling him to thresh out his corn 
at a time when it was not fit for market, and disposing 
of it at a considerable loss to himself. Then, after 
prefacing the announcement by an allusion to certain 
abatements of rent made by his father, he stated that 
he had come to the conclusion that, as a claim for such 
reductions had been made, he thought the fairest course 
was to have all the farms upon the estates revalued, 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 275 

which had accordingly been done by his orders, and 
the result was the reduction of the rent of a large pro- 
portion of them, while the few that were raised he had 
decided upon leaving at their old rental. Considering 
the heavy sacrifices which these concessions entailed 
on a landlord who had a princely rank to maintain, 
they manifest a conscientious regard for his obligations 
and duties towards his tenantry, which is but rarely to 
be met with among the class to which he belongs. 

With the same disregard of time-honored prejudice, 
the Duke in several instances practically annulled the 
obnoxious and stringent game laws, so long the detesta- 
tion of English tenants. During his visit to Niagara 
Falls, in company with the Prince, report says, he met 
one of his old tenants, now engaged in a flourishing 
business, and the recognition was so marked and cor- 
dial that the bystanders were led to inquire in regard 
to the circumstances of the former acquaintance be- 
tween the parties. It appears that some years ago the 
game preserved by the Duke made such sad havoc with 
the crops of his tenantry that the nuisance became un- 
bearable. Filled with indignation, one of the tenants 
— the gentleman in question — started for the Duke's 
residence, and seeing, but not recognizing, His Grace 
standing near the lodge, and very roughly dressed, he 
requested his landlord to open the gate. 

This the Duke did, and the man rode up to the house. 
There he found no Duke, but plenty of beef and ale, 
which English hospitality furnishes to the poorest 
visitor. After waiting awhile he started for home, 
more indignant, but not quite as sober, as ever. Again 
he met the Duke, again requested him to play the part 
of porter, and, again consenting, the Duke, by adroit 
questionings, led the man to ventilate his grievances. 
Pleased to find a sympathizer, the tenant grew eloquent 
upon his losses, and finally left for home, slightly re- 
lieved at having been able at least to talk of his griefs. 
When he arose the next morning he found the game- 



276 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

keepers and neighboring tenantry busy in destroying 
the game which had played such pranks with his grain, 
and besides this present relief, he received permission 
to repeat the destruction as often as the game became 
troublesome. Most English noblemen would — indeed, 
most English noblemen do — allow their tenantry to get 
along as they may, and carefully protect, from even a 
stick or stone, their fine but destructive preserves. 

The manly and straightforward conduct of the Duke 
in Canada, on the occasion of the Orange disturbances, 
is fresh in the recollection of the public. A timid and 
yacillating man would never have been equal to the 
emergency ; but the bold and determined stand taken 
by the noble Duke has doubtless tended to prevent tlie 
loss of many valuable lives. 

The Duke of Newcastle is tall, with a decided in- 
clination to corpulency. He has large, finely formed 
features, and allows his beard, to grow upon his face, 
naturally without trimming or arrangement. The 
Duke stands very erect, and has an air and manner 
which instantly announce the high-born gentleman, 
and, when in uniform, his appearance is especially 
distingue and imposing. The firm, independent, honest, 
open character of the man inspires his whole form. 
From tliese very qualities — the qualities that appeal 
most to Americans — he stands hardly second to the 
Prince in popular favor, and at almost every place 
which the party visited cheers for the Duke succeeded 
those for the Prince. This was the case even in 
Canada, where the Orangemen, after exclaiming vehe- 
mently against him whom they had never seen, fell in 
love with His Grace as soon as he appeared personally 
among them, were completely captivated by his mingled 
firmness and kindness, and enthusiastically applauded 
the very man against whom they had professed to en- 
tertain the bitterest hostility. For a statue of honest, 
manly independence, no form, after that of Washing- 
ton, could be more expressive tlian that of the Duke. 



THE PRINCE OP WALES IN AMERICA. 277 



THE EARL OF ST. GERMAINS, 

One of the most polished noblemen of the Court of 
St. James, and for some time Lord Lieutenant of 
Ireland, and at present Lord High Steward of Her 
Majesty's household, belongs to an ancient family 
which flourished for several generations in the county 
of Devon before it removed into Cornwall, and in the 
beginning of tlie fifteenth century, Walter Eliot, one 
of his ancestors, was returned among the gentry of 
that shire. The Earl is named Edward Granville 
Eliot. He was born on the 29th of Angust, 1798, and 
was married on the 21st of September, 1824, to Jemima, 
daughter of the late Marquis Cornwallis. His ances- 
tor. Sir John Eliot, was member of Parliament for the 
county of Cornwall in the reign of Charles the First. 
This gentleman, a strenuous opponent of the Court, 
was appointed by the House of Commons one of the 
managers of the impeachment of the Duke of Buck- 
ingham, for which, with Sir Dudley Digges, the other 
manager, he was committed to the Tower, but soon 
afterwards released. In 1628, Sir John Eliot, with 
other members of the Commons, was again sent to the 
Tower for refusing to answer before the Privy Coun- 
cil for unparliamentary conduct, and on the 29th of 
May, in that year, an information was exliibited in the 
Star Chamber against Sir John and his companions 
for their nndutit'ul speeches, and they were sent to 
the Tower, where Sir John died on the 29th of No- 
vember, 1632. 

The Earl of St. Germains is tall and slightly built. 
He is gray haired, and extremely pleasant looking. 
He dresses well, and seems to take a pride in the ar- 
rangement of his personnel. 

Indeed, the Earl, in his attention to his costume, 
and in his jaunty air, resembles not a little Lord Pal- 
merston, of whom it has been said that he grows 
younger with age. With his handsome form, set off 



278 BOYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

by the best made of frock coats, or the full dress uni- 
form of the members of Her Majesty's household, his 
hat jauntily set on one side, his cane lightly held or 
tappino- his brightly polished boot, St, Germains looks 
every inch the Earl, and, at a distance, looks rather 
like the brother tlian like the father of the Hon. Mr. 
Cliarles George Cornwallis Eliot, who accompanied 
him during the greater part of this tour ; as also Vis- 
count Hinchinbrooke, eldest son of the Earl of Sand- 
wich, and grandson of the Marquis of Anglesey, the 
honored military companioji of the Duke of Welling- 
ton. 

Both these gentlemen were on terms of intimate 
friendship with His Royal Highness, and traveled 
with the suite. . 



MAJOR GENERAL THE HON. ROBERT BRUCE. 

Major General the Hon. Robert Bruce, brother of 
the Earl of Elgin, and son of that illustrious peer so 
well known as the collector of those splendid Grecian 
antiquities denominated " The Elgin Marbles," is in 
his forty-eighth year, and is one of the finest-looking 
men of the day, with peculiarly attractive and cordial 
manners. He occupies the position of " Governor" 
to the Prince of Wales, and in this capacity he resides 
with him, and accompanies him upon his travels. 

General Bruce is tall and well built, his hair and 
whiskers gray, his mustache dark, his forehead round, 
full, and dome-like, his complexion pure and trans- 
parent, his eyes dark hazel, his dress the perfection of 
neatness and good taste. He is probably the most 
cultivated gentleman of the suite, and his mind and 
manners are equally polished. General Bruce was 
the only person present during the memorable inter- 
view between the Prince and the Pope of Rome, and 
indeed, accompanied the Prince during his first Con. 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 279 

tinental tour. His Royal Highness could not have a 
better '• guide, philosopher, and friend.'' Equally at 
home in the drawing-room, the field, and the library 
— equally well versed in the etiquette of court and 
camp, and as scholarly as he is accomplished — General 
Bruce appears the model gentleman, while his good- 
ness of heart, his instant recognition of merit in every 
station, his suavity and his affability, make him no less 
loved than admired. 



M.D. 

This gentleman, a distinguished member of the Uni- 
versity of Oxford, and of great literary and scientific 
attainments, is the Prince's physician. He is tall and 
stoutly built, and has full light-colored side whiskers, 
and high forehead. . 



MAJOR TEESDALE. 

This brave officer is one of the Prince's equerries, 
and distinguished himself at the siege of Kars, in the 
defense of which he took an active and prominent 
part, under Gen. Williams. He wears several medals 
of honor. He is handsome, having a face of the Teu- 
tonic type, and light curly hair and mustache. 



CAPTAIN GRAY. 

Captain Gray, who is also distinguished for bravery, 
and who wears several medals of honor, ranks equally 
with Major Teesdale as an equerry of the Prince. 
Captain Gray is tall, stoops slightly forward, and is 
distinguished by his closely cut hair, his long, heavy 
side whiskers, his brilliant dark eyes, fine complexion, 
and high color. 



280 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 



THE ROYAL aUARTETTE. 

(INTENDED TO BE SUNG ONLY BY THE COMPOSERS.) 

" Welcome, Laddie, for your Mither''s sake^ 

Much has been said and done sin' the Prince cam' here, 
To mak' him liind welcome and gie him guid cheer ; 
But the best thing seen or said on land, stream, or lake, 
It was, " Welcome, laddie, for your mither's sake." 

Oh ! light be the heart o' him wha designed it, 
Calm as the feeling which nestles behind it ; 
Be his head ever clear, may his soul have no ache, 
Wha welcomed the " laddie for his mither's sake." 

'Tis as chaste as the gem which slumbers in light, 
As clear to the mind as the sun to the sight ; 
The hand o' him wha said it I'd cheerfully shake, 
Wi' a *' Welcome, laddie, for your mither's sake." 

As simple an' sweet as the breath o' a bairn, 

An' sparklin' an' pure as the dew on the chairn ; 

Oh ! dead were the soul that the sense were slow to take 

0' that " Welcome, laddie, for your mither's sake." 

A charm's in the word that's found in no other, 
From lowliest life to exalted Queen Mother ; 
True feeling was his who such sentiment could make ; 
May his hope be in heaven '• for his mither's sake." 



AT THE GRAVE OF WASHINGTON. 

The soft rays of the autumn sun 

Fell goldenly on land and wave, 
Touching with holy light the grave 

That holds the dust of VVashington. 

A sacred Presence brooded round, 

A halo of divinest flame ; 

The memory of the mighty name 
That makes Mount Vernon hallowed ground ! 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 281 

A stately, silent group was there — 

The nation's Ruler, crowned with years, 
And England's Prince, amid his peers, 

Uncovered iu the reverent air. 

Beneath the old ancestral trees 

They walked together, side by side, 

In sun and shadow, close allied, 
Linked in the happy bands of peace. 

Two friendly nations met in them, 

Two mighty nations, one of old, 

Cast in the same gigantic mould. 
Shoots from the sturdy Saxon stem. 

They gathered round his holy dust, 

The wisest of the many wise 

That shaped our early destinies, 
And fought our battles, sternly just. 

Like brothers, at his grave they stood, 

And gloried in his common name 

Forgetting all things but his fame, 
Remembering only what was good ! 

'Twas gracefully and nobly done, 
A royal tribute to the free, 
Who, Prince, will long remember thee, 

Before the grave of Washington ! 



In the golden sun of the early October, 

By the wide Potomac's yellow flood. 
At the tomb of the great world's noblest sleeper 

A group of strangers silent stood. 

Full many a foot the path had trodden — 
And ever with slow and careful tread,— - 

The path sweeping down from the house to the river, 
That passes the tomb of the mighty dead. 

Full many an eye through the iron grating 
Had looked on the marble coffer gray 

Where a nation, half a century younger, 
Laid the gem of their pride in dust away. 

All nations, and colors, and habits, and races, 
Had made it a spot of pilgrim tryst. 



282 



Paying homage to valor, and wisdom and goodness — 
No blood and no climate can ever resist. 

But here was a group from the Isle of the Ocean — 

The rocky isle of our fathers' birth — 
The isle whose drum-beat circles and startles 

The echoes of morning over the earth. 

And one was a boy, with the hair of a Saxon, 
The bright blue eye of the German land, 

Who will hold some day, if the fates are propitious, 
The sceptre of George the Third in his hand. 

Behind him were men of the proudest title— 

The feudal lords of English boast. 
Standing ever around the royal scion 

As the great ships guard their native coast. 

Victoria's son — high Albert Edward — 
He had stood already, in year's so few, 

On many a spot, made famous in story — 
On Naseby, and Barnet, and Waterloo— 

The spots where a dynasty tottered and trembled, 

Or a rebel baron in ruin fell, 
And where, over the startled and shuddering Europe, 

Rang out the great Corslcan commoner's knell. 

But never, I ween, on a spot so pregnant 
With varying thought, stood the boy before ; 

And what must have been the mingled color 
That his young reflection silently wore ? 

Before him the dead lay — helpless, but mighty ; 

Around him was stretching an endless chain 
Of hills, and plains, and crowded cities, 

And rivers down laughing to the main. 

This golden land had once been a jewel 

That flashed and glittered in a Britain's crown, 

His own great grandsire had ruled and lorded 
Wherever the visitor's foot came down. 

The man that was dead, in the century faded, 
Had won a wreath for his manly brow, 

That a hundred years have budded and brightened ; 
Did the royal boy remember how ? 



THE PEINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 283 



PADDY'S ODE TO THE PRINCE. 

(WRITTEN IN NEW YORK.) 

Mighty Prince ! it's no offince, 
Your worship, that I mane ye, 

While I confiss, 'twas as ra-al bliss, 
A moment to have sane ye ! 

That you should see the likes o' me, 
The while I stud adjacent, 

1 don't suppose, although me clothes 
Was mighty clane and dacent. 

But by my troth, and Bible-oath ! 

Wid all my Irish shyness, 
I've passed the word wid many a lord 

Much taller thau your Highness I 

Ah ! well — bedad, no doubt ye had, 

In token of allagiance, 
As good a cup as ye could sup. 

Among thim black Canajans : 

But wha'-d'ye think of Christian dhrink, 

Now tell me that, me tulip ! 
When through a straw your Highness saw 

The flavor of a julep? 

And what is more, we've got galore, 
Such oysters — none can bate 'em ; 

Ye'll bliss the day ye crossed the say, 
When ye sit down to ate 'em. 

There's craythers rare and mighty quare 

In Barnum's great Muzaum. 
By laud and wather, and for a qua'ther 

Your Highness may survey 'em. 

Thim haythen chaps, the nayger Japs, 

Wid all their grate expinses. 
Just tuk their fill, and left a bill 

At which the paple winces. 



284 ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD ; OR, 

Fernandy Wud has decent blood, 

And illigant morality ; 
And ye may sware our mighty Mayor 

Will show his horse-pitality. 

The soldiers are all at his call, 
Wid captaius to parade 'em ; 

And at the laste, ye'U get a taste 
Of dimmocratic fraydem ! 

But plase to note, ye'er not to vote — 

A privilege, by Jabers, 
Ye could'nt hope, were ye the Pope, 

Until ye've got the papers ! 

Well, mighty Prince, accept these hints ; 

Most frayly I indite 'em 5 
'Tis luck indade, if ye can rade 

As aisy as I can write 'em ! 

And when the throne is all ye'r own 
At which ye're daily steerin'. 

With all the care that ye can spare, 
Remember poor ould Erin ! 



THE NEW YORK BALL TO THE PRINCE, OR THE 
BELLES HE DANCED WITH. 

'Twas a grand display, was the Prince's ball, 
A pageant or fete, or what you may call 

A brilliant corruscation ; 
Where ladies and lords of noble worth 
Enchanted a Prince of royal birth. 

By a royal demonstration. 

Like Queens, arrayed in their regal guise, 
They charmed the Prince with dazzling eyes, 

Fair ladies of rank and station — 
Till the floor gave way, and down they sprawled 
In a tableaux style, wbich the artists called 

A floor-all decoration. 

At the Prince's feet like flowers they laid, 
In the brightest bouquet ever made. 

For a Prince's choice to falter — 
Perplexed to find, where all wore rare, 
Which was the fairest of the fair 

To cull for a Queenly altar. 



THE PRINCE OF WALES IN AMERICA. 285 

But soon the floor was set aright, 
And Peter Cooper's face grew bright, 

When, like the swell of an organ. 
All hearts beat time to the first quadrille, 
And the Prince confessed to a joyous thrill 

As he danced with Mrs. Morgan. 

Then came the waltz, the Prince's own — 
And every bar and brilliant tone 

Had music's sweetest grace on ; 
But the Prince himself ne'er felt its charm 
Till he slightly clasped with circling arm, 

That lovely girl, Miss Mason. 

But ah ! the work went bravely on. 
And meek-eyed Peace a trophy won 

By the magic art of the dancers ; 
For the daring Prince's next exploit 
Was to league with Scott's Camilla Hoyt. 

And overcome the Lancers ! 

Besides these three he deigned to yield 
His hand to Mrs. B. M. Field, 

Miss Jay and Miss Van Buren 
Miss Russell, too, was given a place- 
All beauties famous for their grace 

From Texas to Lake Huron. 

With Mrs. Kernochan he " lanced," 
With Mrs. Edward Cooper danced, 

With Mrs. Belmont capered ; 
With fair Miss Fish, in fairy rig. 
He tripped a sort of royal jig. 

And next Miss Butler favored. 

And thus, mid many hopes and fears, 
By the brilliant light of the chandeliers, 

Did they gayly quaff and revel ; 
Well pleased to charm a royal Prince, 
The only one from Old England since 

George Washington was a rebel. 

And so the fleeting hours went by, 

And watches stopped — lest time should fly — 

Or that they winding wanted ; 
Old matrons dozed and papas smiled, 
And many a fair one was beguiled 

As the Prince dancod on, undaunted. 



286 



ROYALTY IN THE NEW WORLD : OR, 



'Tis now a dream — the Prince's ball, 
Its vanished glories, one and all, 

The scenes of the fairy tales ; 
For Cinderella herself was there, 
And Barnum keeps for trial fair, 
The beautiful slipper deposited there 

By His Highness the Prince of Wales. 



A^R.16.^861. 



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